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07runner
Guest
On the V-8 there is a rear differential, a front differential, and maybe a transfer case? What fluids are you using for this. I hope synthetic is available for this application because gears meshing together need good lubrication. Synthetic for this would really be worth the extra money. I would have to pay the dealer I have no idea how to replace these fluids. So what fluids are you using?
RL Lemke
New member
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx
Buy 7 quarts to have plenty. A Toyota dealer changed out mine in an hour, though they charge a book rate. Low range now engages a lot smoother.
Differential, Front..........3.0 pints
Differential, Rear..........6.5 pints
Transfer Case,..........3.0 pints
TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....29 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....27 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....27 ft-lbs
Buy 7 quarts to have plenty. A Toyota dealer changed out mine in an hour, though they charge a book rate. Low range now engages a lot smoother.
Differential, Front..........3.0 pints
Differential, Rear..........6.5 pints
Transfer Case,..........3.0 pints
TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....29 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....27 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....27 ft-lbs
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07runner
Guest
Engagement of 4L going smoother is nice. I have decided to go with synthetic motor oil, and changing the other fluids should sort of go along with it.
I am doing it because we are going to build more house than we will ever need and this 4Runner I am going to get will be the last of my toys for a long time to come.
I figure the synthetic will cost me at least $500 more by the time I hit 100,000. Now that I have seen the new property tax bill, I will need another 100,000 miles so I really hope this stuff works.
So the dealer had no problem with using the synthetic gear oil you gave them. Dealers can be funny about stuff like that.
I am doing it because we are going to build more house than we will ever need and this 4Runner I am going to get will be the last of my toys for a long time to come.
I figure the synthetic will cost me at least $500 more by the time I hit 100,000. Now that I have seen the new property tax bill, I will need another 100,000 miles so I really hope this stuff works.
So the dealer had no problem with using the synthetic gear oil you gave them. Dealers can be funny about stuff like that.
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07runner
Guest
If I go with the amsoil gear oil do I need any limited slip additives? Or is this something we don't need to worry about?
6.25 qts, thats almost a quart left over. Metric system screws us all.
6.25 qts, thats almost a quart left over. Metric system screws us all.
RL Lemke
New member
07runner said:
Don't add anything to Amsoil. We have numerous dealers here in Dallas, so if I have a problem with one I can drive on to the next. Actually, I have found a great deal of respect for Amsoil at both Toyota and Honda dealers. I had my wife's first free oil change done at the dealer and handed them a gallon of Amsoil to use. They said that they recommend going the full 7,500 miles with Amsoil. 3,000 miles for anything else.
TeryT
New member
I've found Mobil 1's to go in all these. These are areas it really seems a no-brainer to me - as there are no normal engine contaminents to worry about. Therefore the synthetic gear oil really shines in these applications.07runner said:
By the way, just checked my oil as I'm right at 5k & due for a change (I tow, therefore it constitutes the more frequest schedule). The odometer is nearing 52,000 - guess what! It hasn't bunt ONE DROP of the Mobil One. Many have said that this 4.7L really likes Mobil One over on BITOG - I think they just may have something! :awais:
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07runner
Guest
The dealer informed me this morning that on the 2006 model, transmission, front and rear differential plus the transfer case is now comming from the factory with synthetic oil. I asked him if he was sure and he said yes, because he did a full service fluid change yesterday and was surprised himself. Told me the gear oil is made by mobil. Now that everything is synthetic, I have a feeling the engine oil will be synthetic in the near future.
synthetic oil is FAR superior to conventional? Sure, if you get one oil change a year, but most people who use synthetic are wasting there $ by changing the oil at the same 3-5k miles as regular oil. If this is the case there is ZERO benefit. On the flip side by using normal petro. oil you change the oil more often and get rid of an metalic contamination. Go with convention oil for the engine.
TeryT
New member
Yes, but of course! However, I think the question has always been: "How much less metal wear will you get with synthetic?" If synthetic causes less wear . . . Therefore you wouldn't have as much metal to drain; therefore you wouldn't have to change oil as often; therefore . . .elemint said:
geenowalker
New member
Studies are done every year in colleges around the country. Find any reputable engineering school, and some senior will use this a a thesis for their design project. I have probable seen 3 or 4 (google if your are looking) of these and their outcome is always the same. There was very little difference between quality regular and synthetic driving under normal conditions with changes below 4000k miles. The regular oil began to break down quicker at a exponential rate as the engine reached high temps. I am talking really high temps, far more than anyone's car should ever get. I think that it was clear that the longgevity of the oil makes the difference (for regular drivers) as far as cost. I use Mobile 1 and still change regullarly (3500). My maxima (just got my t4r and am doing my first change this weekend - M1-5w30) takes 4 quarts, so 22 bucks vs. regular at about 8 bucks. The $15 difference times the amount of changes every year 12 equals $180. If I lest the distance go for the synthetic (to 6 or 8k miles), I would run about 90 bucks a year. I could go probably 6-8k miles on the synthetic, but why take the chance on a $35k car that I want to get 200K miles out of.
If you want to see what kind of difference synthetic makes, run a dino oil for 5K and send it off for lab testing. Change to synthetic and run for 5K and get another test. You'll know if more metals or trace elements are present.
This will help you choose what oil is best for your vehicle. For 40 bucks you can determine what works for you.
Like the other poster here, I have never heard of anyone having an engine failure in a Toyota related to the type of engine oil used.
I changed to synthetic hoping for some more mileage due to less friction and better coating, but I can't say I saw any difference.
Let's face it, for the top 5% of consumers who have to have the very best, synthetic oil does fill that need. We'd all be driving Ford Explorers if we felt differently.
This will help you choose what oil is best for your vehicle. For 40 bucks you can determine what works for you.
Like the other poster here, I have never heard of anyone having an engine failure in a Toyota related to the type of engine oil used.
I changed to synthetic hoping for some more mileage due to less friction and better coating, but I can't say I saw any difference.
Let's face it, for the top 5% of consumers who have to have the very best, synthetic oil does fill that need. We'd all be driving Ford Explorers if we felt differently.
RonMAIDEN
Super Moderator
There's no danger in going up to 8k since that's what syn oil was designed for but people that claim to go for 15k-25k is a bit nuts for me since IMO it's how long the oil is in your engine rahter than distance since if I waited even 15k to change my oil it would take almost two years to hit that interval which doesn't make me feel comfortable.
Right now I change my M1 syn at 8k and that generally takes almost a year.
Right now I change my M1 syn at 8k and that generally takes almost a year.
Oil Change
I have a 1998 4Runner 250,000 miles.
I drove it hard, towing, and in the snow.
For the first ~ 125,000 I used regular oil and changed the oil at 7,500 mile intervals.
Then for the second ~125,000 miles, I have been using Mobil 1 with a mobil 1 filter and change at 10,000 intervals.
I have googled far and wide, and have not seen any scientific evidence that proves I am doing something okay with Mobil 1.
Costco sells Mobil 1 here and when it goes on sale there, I stack up. They just had 9 dollars off a six pack.
I have a 1998 4Runner 250,000 miles.
I drove it hard, towing, and in the snow.
For the first ~ 125,000 I used regular oil and changed the oil at 7,500 mile intervals.
Then for the second ~125,000 miles, I have been using Mobil 1 with a mobil 1 filter and change at 10,000 intervals.
I have googled far and wide, and have not seen any scientific evidence that proves I am doing something okay with Mobil 1.
Costco sells Mobil 1 here and when it goes on sale there, I stack up. They just had 9 dollars off a six pack.
RL Lemke
New member
Here is a related study: http://www.amsoil.com/news/2009_july_motorcycle_oil_white_paper.pdf
I still enjoy having a bypass oil filter mount behind the front bumper. BIG primary filter and bigger bypass ultra fine filter. 10 quart initial fill. Oil changes are fast and easy without having to remove the skid plate.
