Talk me into installing an Inverter

[4Reak Show]

Alright, so I came across a brand new 1,000 watt inverter that I can easily install as a removable unit in my old 95 and have no issue doing it. But really, why? And I'm serious. I can't think of a legitimate reason to need 110volt AC power when off roading or camping.

Common uses of inverter in an RV:

1) TV. Nope don't want that to camp
2) coffee maker. Nope. Jet boil.
3) hair dryer. No. Just no.
4) charge phones/devices. Nope, I have 3 USB ports.
5) maybe a portable fan? But again, could run one off USB or cigarette outlet.
6) CPAP machine. Fortunately I don't need one.
7) power tools? I would think if I break something so extreme to warrant a tool requiring 110VAC I'm doing something wrong.
8) fridge. I rock an ice chest but I suppose that would be useful.

So what am I missing? I want to justify this install but I'm having a hard time finding a purpose.

Maybe blender for margaritas?

 

[Bumbo]

I guess I am in the same boat. I have one and I rarely ever need one, but I like having the capability. I don't even store it in the truck.

I did it more or less just because I can... I use a lot of Anderson Powerpole quick disconnects and I have a few different locations in and outside of the truck where I can plug one in.

The last time I used it was when I was helping a friend with some electrical work on the truck. Wasn't near an outlet. Used it to run my heat gun for shrink tube. Also used it with a Dremel tool once. The thing is... once you have it, you find uses for it.

 

[Bumbo]

Plus... do you even have anything better to do right now with all this Covid 19 action?

Sound like an ideal self isolation project.

 

[4Reak Show]

That's funny, I just modified my subwoofer assembly main battery connection to those style connectors

So my plan was to just put the same connector onto the inverter and then I can plug and play as needed. (whenever that is).

Maybe mostly why I want to is just to have the added option. Maybe power goes out at home and I can run one of my house fridges while truck idling? Math says they only pull 600w. Inverter is an RV grade 1000w continuous, 2000w peak for motor start ups. Or a small space heater when sleeping in the truck in winter.

 

[Bumbo]

Those are called the SB50 series Anderson Connectors... I generally scavenge them off server APC UPS units. I got a ton of them...

You can buy parts from these guys... I generally keep the housings and buy extra 10, 8, and 6 AWG crimp heads so I can upgrade the cabling.
SB50 SB Series 50 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit | Powerwerx

Something you might need to do to reliably run 1000 watts as that is a 84 amp load at 12 volts. I run these modules in parallel so I can distribute the load.

Another thing to consider is just making a battery project so you have some reliable emergency power for home that has nothing to do with the truck. I made a small DIY solar setup at home... it powers my HAM radio and ARB fridge 24/7 in an off-grid manner. I also have the option to use my inverter with that setup too if needed.

 

[4Reak Show]

Oh dude awesome! I was also able to procure 2 really nice HEAVY 6 volt batteries that produce 400 amp hours when wired in series. So I'm building a little cover for that and have the inverter and battery bank just be its own thing. And by using those same subwoofer style connectors to connect the inverter and batteries, it does allow me to toss the inverter in the truck if I ever want to. Or the whole battery contraption if I have the need. I like the versatility options.

That website only offers 6 gauge versions, but I'm using 4 gauge wires since again, I have an abundance available to me. Do you know if the pins run large and the 6 gauge may fit a 4 gauge wire?

I ask because the ones I used on the subwoofer were advertised at 2-4 gauge and they were massive.

And the inverter will have a 100 amp cube style fuse on it, which is what the machines at work utilize for this exact set up.

Edit: nevermind I found the bigger ones. I have 175 amp version on the subwoofer so I'm going to stick with that all around for switchability. I like to go bigger to avoid weak links.

 

[Bumbo]

That’s great. It’s hard to tell the size by photo but they have up to SB350 series which handles 1/0 to 4/0 wire.

Those 6v solar/golf cart batteries are excellent for deep cycle work. That would pair very well with that inverter. If you need a recommendation for a really great solar charge controller I highly recommend the Victron Energy Smart Solar MPPT units. They are fully programmable which makes them very versatile and usable with lead and lithium batteries, "smart" units have built in Bluetooth capability for their app, data logging and reporting… and pretty affordable for what you get. Here is a screen shot.

All this DC power and battery stuff is kinda my jam... its what I enjoy most about these types of project at least

Right now I’m just playing with it and moving it around to different setups, but the plan is to get it into the 4Runner with a panel on the roof so I can actually see what’s going on with my electrical system and fridge loads.

Ultimately it’s going to charge a compact lithium battery for my fridge setup which is still kinda in development, but the proof of concept testing has already been done. System is complete with its own battery management setup so it can safely be charge/discharge unattended.

I want to build all the cells into a low profile drawer system under the fridge... most people wont even know its there unless I told them. Technically it would become a triple-battery setup as the fridge now has its own dedicated non-shared power source.

Made using recycled 18650 batteries, I basically got for free...

 

[4Reak Show]

PM sent.

Oh dude nice! Yeah I've installed TONS of solar at work, but it's normally a simpler controller system. Not a lot of victron yet. Mostly just lithium batteries with massive inverters and some basic solar panels.

I'll post up pictures once I finish my modular inverter system.

By the way, the 6v Trojan AGMs are HEAVY batteries.

 

[4Reak Show]

So far I've decided to leave it as a modular, stand alone unit, eventually to have connectability to my 4Runner via the Anderson plugs I'm waiting on. Here is how it looks buttoned up, besides the 12 volt cables which will run through the lid's corner.

Inverter is attached to the lid, and that comes off with the top of the battery box

The box is not attached to the batteries other than a snug fit over the tray. To build a box strong enough to lift and support those 2 batteries would be stupid. Plus moving both batteries at the same time in a box that big is like moving a dead body. If I need to lift them into my truck for a trip or whatever, the top lifts off, then the surround lifts off. Couple of connections and each battery is independent again so transport is easy. Otherwise, I can just slid the whole contraption around on my garage floor pretty easy.

I'll post pictures once I get the big connectors and finalize it all.

 

[Bumbo]

Nice work... simple yet effective. I like that you can keep the battery box separate from the inverter. Solid use of Anderson plugs.

Not that it's legal to do without a generator interlock kit on your main breaker panel, but you could use that like a generator to back-feed the house for backup power to run a fridge in the event of a power outage.

Something like this might be pretty useful around the garage or house.
18 In. x 12 In. 1000 lb. Capacity Hardwood Dolly

If you have a backyard or place to store that and dont use it often, I would add a solar charge controller and a 100 watt solar panel just so its always charged, maintained, and ready to use.

 

[4Reak Show]

Thanks! A solar controller is a great idea. We may even have a couple floating around somewhere that got upgraded. Good call for keeping it charged without even thinking about it.

 

[supercliff2]

I haven’t found a use yet but just finished installing a 1000w inverter and custom cabinets in back. I ran 4 gauge wires from the 2nd battery in the engine bay to the back. I have a portable folding solar system and can connect it to the battery when camping via Anderson connectors.

(Lower left side is for a fridge which isn’t in the shot. )

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bumbo]

I like it. I need a cabinet / base for my fridge that looks just like that.

It’s the ideal shape/size for these battery 5 kWh battery modules which would run the ARB 50 for approximately 14 days straight at 75F ambient.

 

[4Reak Show]

[MENTION=424810]supercliff2[/MENTION] Looks really good! I'm also in the planning stages of a drawer system for my 2nd gen. I just can't commit to fully/permanently mounting those insane batteries I acquired. It would literally be like always hauling around an additional person. So my drawer system is going to be 3 way convertible but that's for my build thread.

Anyway, Do you have a link to those drawer slides with the locking handles? Those look pretty cool.

 

[Shawnm126]

Dude, where did you get those batteries and how much are they?

 

[Bumbo]

Dude, where did you get those batteries and how much are they?

If you were talking to me and referring to post #13, that was pulled from the Tesla Model S battery pack.

They cost about $900-$1500 each depending on where you source them and their condition.

It might sound expensive, but it's not. It would take 7 Odyssey Extreme group 34 batteries weighing in at 350 lbs to match it's raw capacity.

The Tesla module weights 55 lbs and still has a longer service life.

You can find these all over the place like forums/eBay. EV West in San Diego is a reputable place to buy stuff like this. They specialize in EV conversions but also sell parts to DIYers.

Tesla Model S Lithium Ion Battery 18650 EV Module - 22.8 Volt, 5.3 kWh, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits

 

[MrSeth]

Dang. All this fancy stuff. I have a 400W inverter hard wired into my rear cigarette lighter and bolted to my sleeping platform. It charges my laptop and other electronics while the truck is on, then powers off when the truck is off so I don't drain my battery. I can also run a drill and electric chainsaw off of it (smaller one). Works like a charm.

 

[Thebeastlives]

I have 2 in my 96 4 runner. I used them to charge my laptop, tablet, phones, run air compressor and other off the grid items that need when camping or offroading.

 

[buterin]

Indeed, for me, a 110 volt AC power inverter is enough for camping. I also had an old one that couldn't give enough power for such needs. And I found a new one on 10 Best RV Inverter Reviews 2020 – Expert Buying Guide. Indeed, there are many models for an affordable price. My friend decided to make an inverter by himself and he suffered for half a month until he collected everything for it and after all, it worked badly and there were crashes. Honestly, I don't understand why spend so much time, nerves and energy if you can buy a new and better one for a democratical price.

 

[AspenBob]

I run an electric blanket in my roof top tent. Nothing better than getting into a warm bed on a cold night!
My 2nd battery, an Optima, will run it for an hour or so, with the charge dropping from 100% to about 75%.