TG Ifs eliminator questions

[Robmills72]

I've always like the price of the TG kit and the fact that it comes with EVERYTHING you need. However it seems that even the 3" kit gives about double that, and I want to keep a low center of gravity. My question is could I hypothetically run that kit as a spring under axle instead of SOE. I know my clearance will suffer but I am okay with that. I want to stay linked in the rear also (for now at least) so I can't get too tall. My ifs is getting tired and I don't wanna dump a bunch of good money into stock suspension.

 

[KidVermicious]

Your clearance will suffer a bunch. If you like the idea of the Trailgear kit, go with the 3" setup, french the shackle hangers build your own low profile spring hanger in front like this:

It's my opinion that the Trailgear setup sits too high and there's better ways to set up an SAS. But it is nice to have everything in one box.

 

[Robmills72]

Your clearance will suffer a bunch. If you like the idea of the Trailgear kit, go with the 3" setup, french the shackle hangers build your own low profile spring hanger in front like this:

It's my opinion that the Trailgear setup sits too high and there's better ways to set up an SAS. But it is nice to have everything in one box.

I completely agree with you, I don't want to be stupid tall but like you said, one box. You said to French the hangers but doesn't the TG kit use frame tubes? But if I decided to go SUA would I weld the perches to the bottom of the axle and then see where it sits and if it's still too tall then make shorter shackles?

 

[ajohnson]

The TG hanger and shackles add 1" to the spring height.

It is nice having everything included in the kit, but you could piece your own kit together. RUF springs with a Sky man. SAS kit would probably sit lower. You can set the springs up to your desired height by adding leaves. You will need to move the steering box forward with this setup though.

 

[Hyde802]

Frenching spring hanger, as in cut into the front crossmember, not talking about the shackle tubes.

To be spring under, you might want to go with the 5" springs.

I used the sky kit, and some ruf springs, got 3" total lift out of it, matched the chevy spring swap really well. About 3" uptravel (bumpstopped) with about 8 down. Leaves sit just about flat.

Check out this build for a little out of the box thinking http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1380145-sprung-under-runner.html

 

[KidVermicious]

No, I meant the shackle hangars. Are they already designed to be frenched up into the frame in the TG kit? I thought they had a bracket that welded underneath the frame.

 

[thatoneguy]

They come with frame tubes. Weeee

 

[Hyde802]

No, I meant the shackle hangars. Are they already designed to be frenched up into the frame in the TG kit? I thought they had a bracket that welded underneath the frame.

My bad. Figured you knew how the TG kit went together. :hiding:

Well anyway, I was talking about fenching in the front hanger.

Something more like this

The problem with getting an IFS truck to sit that low is frame clearance.

 

[Robmills72]

The problem I have with the ruf is that I have my arb and the body is still good so I don't want to chop into any of that also I may not be able to keep the arb with an ruf crossmember. If I went with TG With a 5" spring then everything would be the same just as long as it hit the bump stop at the right point so that everything clears.

 

[Hyde802]

With a spring under, you wont necessarily need high steer, so youll gain some up travel there.

The RUF crossmember is no different than the TG cross member. Its the springs that move the axle forward so much. (unless you use 51" rufs, then you need to move the hanger forward a few inches)

 

[Robmills72]

With a spring under, you wont necessarily need high steer, so youll gain some up travel there.

The RUF crossmember is no different than the TG cross member. Its the springs that move the axle forward so much. (unless you use 51" rufs, then you need to move the hanger forward a few inches)

Would it mess up clearance if I ran the high steer kit that the TG kit comes with or would I be better off trading with someone with crossover, etc

 

[brifri01]

I just set up my ruf steering and have not cut the body at all. I will have to clear 37s. But as far as steering box clearance no problem.

 

[92-SR5]

I run the TG 3" kit and I have like 7" of total lift, no joke. Skys sells a 2.5" SAS kit. I was going to get that when I did mine, but I ended up finding the TG one for under a grand so I couldn't pass that up. I clear 35s with PLENTY of room for a bigger tire.
It is pretty hard to keep a SAS real low due to the flatter frame the IFS trucks have.

 

[thatoneguy]

I run the TG 3" kit and I have like 7" of total lift, no joke. Skys sells a 2.5" SAS kit. I was going to get that when I did mine, but I ended up finding the TG one for under a grand so I couldn't pass that up. I clear 35s with PLENTY of room for a bigger tire.
It is pretty hard to keep a SAS real low due to the flatter frame the IFS trucks have.

I run the 4" kit, and in the front, after 9 months of settling, I still have a lot more clearance for the 35s than I need.

I probably wouldn't tell anyone to get the 4 or 5" kits, unless said person is really into monster trucks / tipping over / going balls to the wall.

 

[92-SR5]

I run the 4" kit, and in the front, after 9 months of settling, I still have a lot more clearance for the 35s than I need.

I probably wouldn't tell anyone to get the 4 or 5" kits, unless said person is really into monster trucks / tipping over / going balls to the wall.

Yeah the 4 and 5 inch kits are overkill. If i wanted to, I could probably shove a 39.5 up front and it would fit. My springs have not settled that much over the last 6 months or so.

My 35s look small

 

[thatoneguy]

Mine look small as well. Looked damn right outrageous the first month.

I have Dirty Chevs with 3" blocks in the rear.... But the rear still sits several inches lower than the front. Didn't plan on that starting the build

 

[KidVermicious]

Would it mess up clearance if I ran the high steer kit that the TG kit comes with or would I be better off trading with someone with crossover, etc

Run the high steer. Your other main options are to custom fab a low crossover, or take off your IFS box and install a push-pull box to work a set of stock steering arms, in which case we will point and laugh and you will kick puppies when the J-arm breaks.

I can't visualize a conflict between the Trailgear high steer and a springunder, if that's what you're still thinking about. A springunder would almost eliminate the possibility of a low crossover though.

 

[Hyde802]

Its just that it doesnt need to be up that high. If you drilled out the arms highsteer arms and used Heims on the bottom side of the arms now that the springs arent in the way, you would gain 2" of up travel right there. Something like this, but run a dropped arm witn the draglink on the bottom too.

From this thread.

Low Steering arms. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Or this one http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...ilds-new-toy-old-toy-44-a-15.html#post9911797


The problem with buying a kit, and not using it as intended, might make it not worth the kit and easier to build your own.

 

[broken wrench]

your going to loose or extensively cut and reinforce the ARB and a custom hanger will need to be built. Not worth it, I know I did it on my first truck and after a few hard side pulls it started to twist


your better off doing a low budget ruff and doing some fab work, then use money you save to build or buy a tube front bumper.

Here is a run down of a few parts and issues,
build a flat plate front hanger with buckets
(don't have pics from build to show you close up)


buy or drill extra holes in spring perchs(recommend buying from sky metal to beef up)
either have some one slot your spring bolt plates or drill yourself

there are more pics of different build in my photobucket if you want to browse, I just grabbed quick example shots.


the best option is a 3 link kit but not a budget friendly option. You can control you height , axle location and keep your ARB.

 

[Robmills72]

your going to loose or extensively cut and reinforce the ARB and a custom hanger will need to be built. Not worth it, I know I did it on my first truck and after a few hard side pulls it started to twist


your better off doing a low budget ruff and doing some fab work, then use money you save to build or buy a tube front bumper.

Here is a run down of a few parts and issues,
build a flat plate front hanger with buckets
(don't have pics from build to show you close up)


buy or drill extra holes in spring perchs(recommend buying from sky metal to beef up)
either have some one slot your spring bolt plates or drill yourself

there are more pics of different build in my photobucket if you want to browse, I just grabbed quick example shots.


the best option is a 3 link kit but not a budget friendly option. You can control you height , axle location and keep your ARB.

I've explore the option of a 3 link a little. What would be a recommended coilover to use and where/how would I mount them, I imagine any regular shock tower is out of the question.