The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[gamefreakgc]

Attention freaks! [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] & [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]

I couldn’t find it in this thread but do you know where to source the rear bearings for a black SC rebuild?

Also, do you know if you have to extract the bearings or can you press/hammer them out?....


. Thanks my dudes!

You can buy the bearings here (don't be scared off by the old website: Rolling Performance Home).

If it's a black one, they have to be extracted. You can use a set like this (it's on my list of tool for if I rebuild my SC again): https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Bearing...ocphy=9032435&hvtargid=pla-568240512419&psc=1

 

[4Reak Show]

Attention freaks! [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] & [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]
I couldn’t find it in this thread but do you know where to source the rear bearings for a black SC rebuild?
Also, do you know if you have to extract the bearings or can you press/hammer them out?....
. Thanks my dudes!

You can buy the bearings here (don't be scared off by the old website: Rolling Performance Home).

If it's a black one, they have to be extracted. You can use a set like this (it's on my list of tool for if I rebuild my SC again): https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Bearing...ocphy=9032435&hvtargid=pla-568240512419&psc=1

I was under the impression there was actually 2 versions of the black ones. (Since its sometimes referred to as a 4th gen SC). The latest version has core plugs in the back you can take out to access the bearings. Again, just going off the top of my head. I'll look at the back of mine in a bit to verify, but I'm fairly certain there's little plugs to remove those bearings.

Is yours already experiencing wear? I thought you just barely put that on?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I was under the impression there was actually 2 versions of the black ones. (Since its sometimes referred to as a 4th gen SC). The latest version has core plugs in the back you can take out to access the bearings. Again, just going off the top of my head. I'll look at the back of mine in a bit to verify, but I'm fairly certain there's little plugs to remove those bearings.

Is yours already experiencing wear? I thought you just barely put that on?

Yeah, I've heard something like that too but yet to see a mythical black SC with easy to remove bearings. Mine are not.

 

[infamousRNR]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]
[MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION]

here is a pic of the back of mine.
you can see the back of the bearing. looks like it could be hammered/pressed out.

the other bearing would drop out the back into one of the intakes?






.

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]

[MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION]

here is a pic of the back of mine.
you can see the back of the bearing. looks like it could be hammered/pressed out.

the other bearing would drop out the back into one of the intakes?






.

Mine has that same plug on the rear, there is also one over close to the throttle control. Not sure how much easier it will make changing the bearings with those out.


Looks like I am running into tuning issues again... Saturday I made the 700 mile drive down to denver and it was one of the most frustrating drives I have done in the 4runner to date. All last week it was running great, got 2 hours into the drive and needed gas so I stopped at a conoco in billings filled up with 91 like usual. Jumped on the highway and first big hill I come to I ease into the throttle and instantly the motor it rattling like crazy. Im thinking wtf this thing was not pinging at all for 2 weeks, must of been bad gas. I limped my way through that tank, filled up again and still same issues, ok well now I need to do something so out comes the laptop, pull 2 degrees more of timing across the board and richen up the o2 just a touch more.

That went on all day and by the end I was pulling 10 degrees total of timing and was still pinging like nobody's business. Pulled plugs yesterday and this is what I found, definite issues evident by the brown specs and shiny aluminum coating on the electrode, looked down the spark plug holes and the pistons still look ok so no major damage but the truck is still running like shit, just doesn't have the kinda punch that it did last week and feels boggy.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/147275993@N05/48355842906/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20190722_170729"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48355842906_57957c9ab3_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_20190722_170729"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/147275993@N05/48355973147/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20190722_170137"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48355973147_5888aaef5f_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_20190722_170137"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

To me the plugs also looked too hot so I have some denso ik24s on order. The other issue I think I am having is heat soak, Ive gotten out and measured the temp of the blower case at 186 degrees after pulling a short hill at full boost and under cruise its about 130 degrees. Im exploring options to help cool the blower off but I keep running into the fact that the supercharger and the intake runners on this truck were not designed to distribute droplets, only air. And looking at the rear cylinders and how they are tied into the blower discharge I cant see how there would be a even distribution of fuel. The problem I have seen on some motors is that spraying water meth down them on an intake that wasn't designed for it is negligibly better than doing nothing at all because the meth isnt being distributed.

Right now my best working idea I have is to get a sport hood and cut the vent out. This is what toyota used overseas on the turbo diesels to use the top mount intercooler. Im also talking to urd about buying a 7th injector setup I can run off my mapecu. The plan is use the 7th to help seal and cooler the blower above like 2psi but do the majority of my tuning with the port injectors to make sure Getting equal fuel and dont melt a piston down. Thoughts?

 

[Toy2play]

I'm right there with you. I've made some adjustments on mine and not really satisfied with my results with the 7th and the 2.2 pulley. I get mad pinging around 2-3 psi when high gear low rpm. I've had to adjust the timing range like 6 or 7 degrees in that boost level and it just feels like there is no power. I'm barely adding any fuel to the 7th injector, when I do in the certain ranges, my afr goes in the mid 10's. Almost feel like I've lost power going to the 2.2 and having to make drastic changes to the timing to get rid of the ping. Now I'm fighting increased engine temperatures. I need to look at if it's in direct result from the tune and 7th or if it's something with the cooling system. I have a new water pump, fresh coolant. Going to check the clutch fan. Around town I usually maintain 180-190, but towing a pop up this weekend I got up to 211 which is not normal from my past experience. Is it possible that the 7th and tune could cause this?

So frustrating when the results you achieve are worse than when you started. What afr should I be looking for say in closed loop, 2-3 psi, maybe 20-30% throttle high gear low like 2000-2500 rpm? I know the computer likes to keep it around 14.7 when you are cruising, but it seems like mine is around 13.5-14 afr in the question above. When I add the lowest amount of fuel you can to the injector, my afr drop to 10.5-10.9. Just feels like the power isnt there. What stupid about this is my max boost right now is 6-6.5 psi.

 

[Black798]

I'm right there with you. I've made some adjustments on mine and not really satisfied with my results with the 7th and the 2.2 pulley. I get mad pinging around 2-3 psi when high gear low rpm. I've had to adjust the timing range like 6 or 7 degrees in that boost level and it just feels like there is no power. I'm barely adding any fuel to the 7th injector, when I do in the certain ranges, my afr goes in the mid 10's. Almost feel like I've lost power going to the 2.2 and having to make drastic changes to the timing to get rid of the ping. Now I'm fighting increased engine temperatures. I need to look at if it's in direct result from the tune and 7th or if it's something with the cooling system. I have a new water pump, fresh coolant. Going to check the clutch fan. Around town I usually maintain 180-190, but towing a pop up this weekend I got up to 211 which is not normal from my past experience. Is it possible that the 7th and tune could cause this?

So frustrating when the results you achieve are worse than when you started. What afr should I be looking for say in closed loop, 2-3 psi, maybe 20-30% throttle high gear low like 2000-2500 rpm? I know the computer likes to keep it around 14.7 when you are cruising, but it seems like mine is around 13.5-14 afr in the question above. When I add the lowest amount of fuel you can to the injector, my afr drop to 10.5-10.9. Just feels like the power isnt there. What stupid about this is my max boost right now is 6-6.5 psi.

Mine is the same way, higher boost it runs good and doesn't ping too bad but rolling to hills at lower boost its terrible. Im now pulling 9 degrees with the ik24 plugs and it still pings. I took it up to 10k feet yesterday and it ran really well though.

For afrs in low boost i shoot for low 13s to mid 12s with them heading down to about 12.0 at max boost which for me on the stock pulley is about 5 psi. Im getting really fed up with this thing though. Im now exploring the option of running a water/meth injection setup that I can control with the aux injector map on my map ecu or maybe the nos function to boost the octane. Only problem is I know the supercharger wont evenly distribute the water to all 6 cylinders. Mount like a 5 gallon tank in the back where the spare tire used to be and I shouldn't have to worry about it filling it often. I also think I may be fighting my factory injectors since they are right at the edge of their capability and it seems like the 80 to 100% duty cycle range is very inconsistent. So Ill probably do 305cc supra injectors soon as well to get some more consistent control.

I talked briefly with gadget at urd about it and he said I may have one of the ping prone engines that allegedly had the heads milled funny by toyota and has a slightly higher compression ratio. He suggested adding a thicker head gasket which I think is a bit drastic of a solution. I cant imagine the tolerance on the heads were so loose that it would raise my compression ratio from 9:1 or whatever stock is to like 10:1...

 

[Toy2play]

Mine is the same way, higher boost it runs good and doesn't ping too bad but rolling to hills at lower boost its terrible. Im now pulling 9 degrees with the ik24 plugs and it still pings. I took it up to 10k feet yesterday and it ran really well though.

For afrs in low boost i shoot for low 13s to mid 12s with them heading down to about 12.0 at max boost which for me on the stock pulley is about 5 psi. Im getting really fed up with this thing though. Im now exploring the option of running a water/meth injection setup that I can control with the aux injector map on my map ecu or maybe the nos function to boost the octane. Only problem is I know the supercharger wont evenly distribute the water to all 6 cylinders. Mount like a 5 gallon tank in the back where the spare tire used to be and I shouldn't have to worry about it filling it often. I also think I may be fighting my factory injectors since they are right at the edge of their capability and it seems like the 80 to 100% duty cycle range is very inconsistent. So Ill probably do 305cc supra injectors soon as well to get some more consistent control.

I talked briefly with gadget at urd about it and he said I may have one of the ping prone engines that allegedly had the heads milled funny by toyota and has a slightly higher compression ratio. He suggested adding a thicker head gasket which I think is a bit drastic of a solution. I cant imagine the tolerance on the heads were so loose that it would raise my compression ratio from 9:1 or whatever stock is to like 10:1...

Definitely keep me posted. So far I'm not pinging right now with my current timing map, but just feel like it's less power than my stock pulley, perhaps it's just I'm in the dead of summer and the heat is killing any perceived power gained vs. Spring time on stock pulley. Honestly I did all this so that I could pull my popup trailer without having to stay nearly WOT on inclines. I cant imagine it struggle this much pulling 2500-3000 pounds. But maybe I have unrealistic expectations with this engine supercharged. Maybe I'll pull some plugs and see what they look like.

Just so I am understanding this correct, when we are adjusting the timing range, we are basically allowing the ecu to retard the timing more since its dynamic and is controlled by sensors? Less chance of ping, but you compromise the power, correct?

 

[Black798]

Definitely keep me posted. So far I'm not pinging right now with my current timing map, but just feel like it's less power than my stock pulley, perhaps it's just I'm in the dead of summer and the heat is killing any perceived power gained vs. Spring time on stock pulley. Honestly I did all this so that I could pull my popup trailer without having to stay nearly WOT on inclines. I cant imagine it struggle this much pulling 2500-3000 pounds. But maybe I have unrealistic expectations with this engine supercharged. Maybe I'll pull some plugs and see what they look like.

Just so I am understanding this correct, when we are adjusting the timing range, we are basically allowing the ecu to retard the timing more since its dynamic and is controlled by sensors? Less chance of ping, but you compromise the power, correct?

essentially yes. Above 3k rpm when the knock sensors come on our timing maps do basically nothing. Below 3k rpm our maps take whatever value the ecu is running for timing at that point in time, say 17 degrees advanced, and will subtract from it so if you pull 5 degrees your ecu thinks its running 17 but in reality its running 12. Thats my understanding of it at least.

 

[infamousRNR]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]

[MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION]



Have you guys seen this YouTube video of this guy pressing out the bearings?..

What are your thoughts ?



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y6seifjOqLA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>






.[/QUOTE]

 

[gamefreakgc]

Mine has that same plug on the rear, there is also one over close to the throttle control. Not sure how much easier it will make changing the bearings with those out.


Looks like I am running into tuning issues again... Saturday I made the 700 mile drive down to denver and it was one of the most frustrating drives I have done in the 4runner to date. All last week it was running great, got 2 hours into the drive and needed gas so I stopped at a conoco in billings filled up with 91 like usual. Jumped on the highway and first big hill I come to I ease into the throttle and instantly the motor it rattling like crazy. Im thinking wtf this thing was not pinging at all for 2 weeks, must of been bad gas. I limped my way through that tank, filled up again and still same issues, ok well now I need to do something so out comes the laptop, pull 2 degrees more of timing across the board and richen up the o2 just a touch more.

That went on all day and by the end I was pulling 10 degrees total of timing and was still pinging like nobody's business. Pulled plugs yesterday and this is what I found, definite issues evident by the brown specs and shiny aluminum coating on the electrode, looked down the spark plug holes and the pistons still look ok so no major damage but the truck is still running like shit, just doesn't have the kinda punch that it did last week and feels boggy.


To me the plugs also looked too hot so I have some denso ik24s on order. The other issue I think I am having is heat soak, Ive gotten out and measured the temp of the blower case at 186 degrees after pulling a short hill at full boost and under cruise its about 130 degrees. Im exploring options to help cool the blower off but I keep running into the fact that the supercharger and the intake runners on this truck were not designed to distribute droplets, only air. And looking at the rear cylinders and how they are tied into the blower discharge I cant see how there would be a even distribution of fuel. The problem I have seen on some motors is that spraying water meth down them on an intake that wasn't designed for it is negligibly better than doing nothing at all because the meth isnt being distributed.

Right now my best working idea I have is to get a sport hood and cut the vent out. This is what toyota used overseas on the turbo diesels to use the top mount intercooler. Im also talking to urd about buying a 7th injector setup I can run off my mapecu. The plan is use the 7th to help seal and cooler the blower above like 2psi but do the majority of my tuning with the port injectors to make sure Getting equal fuel and dont melt a piston down. Thoughts?

Get those IK24's in there. You have the wrong kind of plugs for forced induction, I think those are those hyped-up E3 plugs? See how the center electrode is 1. made of copper, and 2. is shielded over 180 degrees? Bad news for a forced induction engine. You are most definitely running too hot and probably not even getting full combustion. Heat can also cause pre-ignition.

In regards to heat soak, yeah it happens. I notice the same drop in power as well. TRD recommended putting their 160F degree thermostat in when installing the supercharger, it doesn't eliminate heat soak by any means but on a cool day my operating temps are in the 170F range, which helps with the intake temps as well. Slows down the heat soak.

Im exploring options to help cool the blower off but I keep running into the fact that the supercharger and the intake runners on this truck were not designed to distribute droplets, only air. And looking at the rear cylinders and how they are tied into the blower discharge I cant see how there would be a even distribution of fuel. The problem I have seen on some motors is that spraying water meth down them on an intake that wasn't designed for it is negligibly better than doing nothing at all because the meth isnt being distributed.

I understand what you're getting at here but you do have it wrong. The engine is operating under boost pressure and it doesn't matter that cylinder 1 is closer in distance than cylinder 5 or 6. The same amount of air mixed with fuel/water will make it to all cylinders equally. It's impossible for one cylinder to be starved of air due to a longer runner when at boost since the pressure evens out instantly. Now, could the intake runners and cylinder heads themselves be improved for more power and flow? Heck ya they can! But they do work fine as is.

When I tore down my old engine it had been running meth for about 2 years and the cylinder heads and intake runners were sparkling clean from the water/meth mixture. There was no difference in cleaning on cylinder 1 or cylinder 6, they were all in perfect shape.

This post is getting long, but last thought about fuel: At your elevation it seems you have a much larger tuning ability on the stock injectors than for us at sea level. I think the 7th + tuned injectors is too much fuel. I do think water/meth would be more beneficial since it will raise the octane considerably (remember you are pinging? Yeah that will be gone) to up to 110 equivalent. But I'm not the one driving your 4Runner so if you do think you need more fuel, 7th injector will work great.

 

[gamefreakgc]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]

[MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION]



Have you guys seen this YouTube video of this guy pressing out the bearings?..

What are your thoughts ?



YouTube






.

[/QUOTE]

Cheaper and less space to get the blind bearing puller instead.

 

[infamousRNR]

Cheaper and less space to get the blind bearing puller instead.

I don't fully understand your sentence...


I just received our Amazon Blind puller set, but I want to see if we will be able to show both methods...

i'm confused about these "plugs" you speak on the backside of the bearing..


isn't that just the back of the bearing you can see?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I don't fully understand your sentence...


I just received our Amazon Blind puller set, but I want to see if we will be able to show both methods...

i'm confused about these "plugs" you speak on the backside of the bearing..


isn't that just the back of the bearing you can see?

Oh, gotcha. I have no experience of pressing out the rear bearings because I don't own a press. I also have no room to store a press, but I can store a blind bearing puller tool set. That supercharger on the video you posted was thrashed, no guarantee that in trying to press them out the back that nothing else was damaged.

One of the leading rebuilder of M62 superchargers, Jon Bond Performance, does not press them out the back. He used the extraction method out the front. I think that's the best course of action. It's going to be a nightmare trying to get it out if halfway through pressing the bearing into the housing you realize that there's not enough room to push it out the back.

On my supercharger, you cannot see the back of the bearing completely. Instead there's large brass "plugs" that look almost like something was capped off.

 

[Black798]

Get those IK24's in there. You have the wrong kind of plugs for forced induction, I think those are those hyped-up E3 plugs? See how the center electrode is 1. made of copper, and 2. is shielded over 180 degrees? Bad news for a forced induction engine. You are most definitely running too hot and probably not even getting full combustion. Heat can also cause pre-ignition.

In regards to heat soak, yeah it happens. I notice the same drop in power as well. TRD recommended putting their 160F degree thermostat in when installing the supercharger, it doesn't eliminate heat soak by any means but on a cool day my operating temps are in the 170F range, which helps with the intake temps as well. Slows down the heat soak.



I understand what you're getting at here but you do have it wrong. The engine is operating under boost pressure and it doesn't matter that cylinder 1 is closer in distance than cylinder 5 or 6. The same amount of air mixed with fuel/water will make it to all cylinders equally. It's impossible for one cylinder to be starved of air due to a longer runner when at boost since the pressure evens out instantly. Now, could the intake runners and cylinder heads themselves be improved for more power and flow? Heck ya they can! But they do work fine as is.

When I tore down my old engine it had been running meth for about 2 years and the cylinder heads and intake runners were sparkling clean from the water/meth mixture. There was no difference in cleaning on cylinder 1 or cylinder 6, they were all in perfect shape.

This post is getting long, but last thought about fuel: At your elevation it seems you have a much larger tuning ability on the stock injectors than for us at sea level. I think the 7th + tuned injectors is too much fuel. I do think water/meth would be more beneficial since it will raise the octane considerably (remember you are pinging? Yeah that will be gone) to up to 110 equivalent. But I'm not the one driving your 4Runner so if you do think you need more fuel, 7th injector will work great.

Long post appreciated haha, its nice having someone to bounce ideas off of that doesn't

​

just go "get the 7th injector." They are the e3 plugs, Id used them once before without issue and they were cheaper than densos so figured I would give them a try and it was a major flop. The ik24s helped but Im still getting quite a bit of ping. Interestingly enough I think you were right that the e3s weren't fully combusting because my afrs have climbed up into the 13s now running the same tune with the stock ecu reset and the only difference being the plugs. Im running the stant 170 degree thermostat right now and the highest I see my temps is about 190, they hover around 186ish usually.

In regards to the meth injection distribution heres where I am getting the theory that this stock intake wont work extremely well.
YouTube
Granted thats a totally different motor and intake but the concept is the same. But later on they tested without charge cooling and made the exact same power as the meth injection and it came down to the water favoring the rear cylinders and the fronts were running lean. But this is also chasing max power which I really am not, I just want the simplest reliable setup for my truck

After talking with some others with the supercharger and 7th in this area even the 7th at 5k feet plus almost does too much and runs really rich. Im kinda of wondering though the stock injectors have always been loud under load, Im wondering if since now theyre pretty much running at 100% that some of the "ping" I hear is the injectors being stupid loud. Supra injectors are only about 100$ so it would be a cheap experiment. Then I guess I will have to see how to run the meth injection off my aux injector map since its a square wave pulse signal. Im thinking of running that output to a solid state relay that triggers the meth pump to turn on and off but its been tough finding info if that will work.

 

[4Reak Show]

Those plugs are likely core plugs. Similar to "freeze plugs" on an engine. Just smaller. So you would need to have replacements on hand of the right dimension since they will be destroyed to be removed.

I also have zero actual experience with a rebuild. My SC had low miles and I only did the nose cone kit. That was also like 8 years ago. Looks like you're gonna have to dive in an see what happens.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Long post appreciated haha, its nice having someone to bounce ideas off of that doesn't

​

just go "get the 7th injector." They are the e3 plugs, Id used them once before without issue and they were cheaper than densos so figured I would give them a try and it was a major flop. The ik24s helped but Im still getting quite a bit of ping. Interestingly enough I think you were right that the e3s weren't fully combusting because my afrs have climbed up into the 13s now running the same tune with the stock ecu reset and the only difference being the plugs. Im running the stant 170 degree thermostat right now and the highest I see my temps is about 190, they hover around 186ish usually.

In regards to the meth injection distribution heres where I am getting the theory that this stock intake wont work extremely well.
YouTube
Granted thats a totally different motor and intake but the concept is the same. But later on they tested without charge cooling and made the exact same power as the meth injection and it came down to the water favoring the rear cylinders and the fronts were running lean. But this is also chasing max power which I really am not, I just want the simplest reliable setup for my truck

After talking with some others with the supercharger and 7th in this area even the 7th at 5k feet plus almost does too much and runs really rich. Im kinda of wondering though the stock injectors have always been loud under load, Im wondering if since now theyre pretty much running at 100% that some of the "ping" I hear is the injectors being stupid loud. Supra injectors are only about 100$ so it would be a cheap experiment. Then I guess I will have to see how to run the meth injection off my aux injector map since its a square wave pulse signal. Im thinking of running that output to a solid state relay that triggers the meth pump to turn on and off but its been tough finding info if that will work.

Try the TRD 160F degree thermostat. You should see temps drop roughly 10 degrees on cooler days. I live in a warm climate and only the months of June-September does it ever go over 180 (without stop and go driving) since I run the A/C and all that.

Toyota injectors can be noisy, they will make a "clicking" noise that can almost sound like rocks in a tire, except it's a whole lot of rocks since they click pretty fast.

For the meth injector, it's tricky. I ended up getting a Stage 2 Snow Performance kit with a controller separate from my AEM FIC 6 which is hard to tune both at the same time. It works but not ideal. However, you can't drive it like a normal injector with pulses like you mentioned, you need a steady signal that you can slowly increase in strength. The signal isn't driving the injector, it's driving the pump (or if no controller, the relay to the pump). Even a simple on/off would be acceptable if you're only injecting a small amount of fluid, I'm using a 3 gph nozzle (175cc/min). The AEM has a triggered 12V, you could use something like that if the MAPECU3 has it. I plan down the road for it to trigger nitrous hehe.

Have you thought about leaning out the supercharger instead by increasing boost like with the 2.1" pulley? Then you will use the extra fuel!

 

[Black798]

Try the TRD 160F degree thermostat. You should see temps drop roughly 10 degrees on cooler days. I live in a warm climate and only the months of June-September does it ever go over 180 (without stop and go driving) since I run the A/C and all that.

Toyota injectors can be noisy, they will make a "clicking" noise that can almost sound like rocks in a tire, except it's a whole lot of rocks since they click pretty fast.

For the meth injector, it's tricky. I ended up getting a Stage 2 Snow Performance kit with a controller separate from my AEM FIC 6 which is hard to tune both at the same time. It works but not ideal. However, you can't drive it like a normal injector with pulses like you mentioned, you need a steady signal that you can slowly increase in strength. The signal isn't driving the injector, it's driving the pump (or if no controller, the relay to the pump). Even a simple on/off would be acceptable if you're only injecting a small amount of fluid, I'm using a 3 gph nozzle (175cc/min). The AEM has a triggered 12V, you could use something like that if the MAPECU3 has it. I plan down the road for it to trigger nitrous hehe.

Have you thought about leaning out the supercharger instead by increasing boost like with the 2.1" pulley? Then you will use the extra fuel!

The mapecu has a nitrous output but i believe its either on or off based off tps boost and whatever else you want to trigger it. Maybe Im over thinking the tuning of the meth and having it just come on would be better than being able to fully tune it like a separate fuel injector. The problem is I really only need the meth a lot in the 1-3psi range where its pinging. I tried the 2.2 pulley and was able to get enough fuel to it but it made the blower so hot that the ping wasnt tune able. Do you know if the stock injectors in the 01s and 02s were constructed differently than our 98s? My buddy with an 02 dealer installed blower with the trd 7th is dead silent where mine seems to have a lot of that fuel injector clicking that I may be getting mixed up with the ping.

I could also setup a recirculating meth system that used a fuel injector instead of a nozzel. Run the pump off the stock pump wiring for simplicity and then injector off of the mapecu. But then I have to dick with pressure regulators and stuff too.

 

[gamefreakgc]

The mapecu has a nitrous output but i believe its either on or off based off tps boost and whatever else you want to trigger it. Maybe Im over thinking the tuning of the meth and having it just come on would be better than being able to fully tune it like a separate fuel injector. The problem is I really only need the meth a lot in the 1-3psi range where its pinging. I tried the 2.2 pulley and was able to get enough fuel to it but it made the blower so hot that the ping wasnt tune able. Do you know if the stock injectors in the 01s and 02s were constructed differently than our 98s? My buddy with an 02 dealer installed blower with the trd 7th is dead silent where mine seems to have a lot of that fuel injector clicking that I may be getting mixed up with the ping.

I could also setup a recirculating meth system that used a fuel injector instead of a nozzel. Run the pump off the stock pump wiring for simplicity and then injector off of the mapecu. But then I have to dick with pressure regulators and stuff too.

If it's small enough, say like a 100-150 cc/min injector you could totally just have it spray from 1 PSI up to max for sure. It could be triggered by a simple on/off. I tried that with the 175 cc/min injector but it would bog it down at partial throttle boost situations.

I have an idea you can try, and actually I'm going to try this soon myself since I've been pinging on moderate loads in this 100 degree heat with this new engine. Buy some Boostane or Royal Purple octane booster (not the cheapo auto store stuff) and follow the directions to raise your octane to 94/95. If the noise goes away, meth will help. If it doesn't, it's either not ping like you are saying or there's a bigger issue. Will cost you all of $15 and would be a very easy way to troubleshoot if you need higher octane.

If you don't need higher octane, then you don't need methanol. It adds 0 HP, unless of course you plan on advancing timing, then the sky is the limit.

 

[Black798]

If it's small enough, say like a 100-150 cc/min injector you could totally just have it spray from 1 PSI up to max for sure. It could be triggered by a simple on/off. I tried that with the 175 cc/min injector but it would bog it down at partial throttle boost situations.

I have an idea you can try, and actually I'm going to try this soon myself since I've been pinging on moderate loads in this 100 degree heat with this new engine. Buy some Boostane or Royal Purple octane booster (not the cheapo auto store stuff) and follow the directions to raise your octane to 94/95. If the noise goes away, meth will help. If it doesn't, it's either not ping like you are saying or there's a bigger issue. Will cost you all of $15 and would be a very easy way to troubleshoot if you need higher octane.

If you don't need higher octane, then you don't need methanol. It adds 0 HP, unless of course you plan on advancing timing, then the sky is the limit.

Ive had a can of race gas sitting in my drawer system for a month now haha. Just was saving for if I got somewhere where I absolutely need it. But I could mix it with half a tank and still have some left so Ill try that soon.

I figure Id have the same issue with the bogging if I use something thats on 100% all the time in boost. I think Ill give snow performance a call ad see what they say.