A.Wilson013
New member
Sent. Sorry, I got caught up in some pretty serious CS:GO
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Sent. Sorry, I got caught up in some pretty serious CS:GO
shootmymime
New member
Great! (Sarcastically). It's 11:40. I have class in the morning at 7:45 and I want to go load it on the truck and test it.
YOU SUCK! (Sarcastically).
MTD
New member
Hey you should be greatful it was 1 in the morning for people out east :wink2:
RussToy
New member
My dealership was the first place I went. Showed them the installation directions from the S/C, which has a picture but know part#!! They did their best...parts guy spent 30+ minutes looking for it, but finally gave up. They advised if I get them a part# they'd be happy to order for me.
I then went to NAPA...who found me a PVC one way valve, but due to it having such a large hose ends...they wanted $30!!
Thank you Sir for your response and help! Much appreciated!!
-Russel
Sir...you are my Hero!! That's exactly what I needed...Thank You Sir!! And to top it off, I got it for a whooping $6 bucks!!! Can you believe it...something that's made by "Toyota" for a S/C and also has those crazy expensive 3 little initials on it, "TRD"!!!! Wow...I'm still just in amazement!! Not to mention...it was for sale by itself. You know how normally items for our S/C's are packaged in "kits" so you have to by 10 items to get the one you need. Then the other 9 items...you, nor anyone else will ever need...frustrating!!
Anyway...thank you very much for all your help sir!!
-Russel
shootmymime
New member
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Double-check your boost lines and make sure none of the t-fittings are leaking or anything like that. Might even just be a leak in the hose for the gauge.
What elevation are you at? I'm no physicist, but air is thinner at higher elevations so in theory the same mass of air at 7000 feet would be less pressure than at sea level.
MTD
New member
Won't affect the boost pressure at all, the absolute pressure is different so tuning will have to change, but boost will not change.
I would check what game said as well as your bypass valve, the bladders in them tend to get dry and crack which causes a boost leak. Other than that there is no other culprit. Unless you really really botched the install on the gasket that should be good.
The rotors being worn will not cause any issues unless the rotor pack bearings are shot. If that is the case you would have to have it sent out and be rebuilt, but there would be no reason to recoat them other that. Unless it was getting loud or is loud I wouldn't mess with it.
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lhsoulrebel
New member
Here is my newly bought used dynamic tensioner bolt set next to a brand new one. They are a little bit different. Mine is longer. Is this going to be an issue during install? Also, the the dynamic tensioners ware out? If they do how can I check my used one is still good?
You'll be fine... See the discolouration at the bottom of the old bolt? That's how far the old one went in, but I know that the threaded hole it goes in is much deeper than that. Also you will probably need a tap to clean out the threads... Previous posts should have the correct tap size.
shootmymime
New member
Is the valve supposed to have the stop screw all the way in?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Mine has a big "DO NOT TOUCH, ADJUSTED FROM FACTORY" sticker on it so have no idea what adjusting it would do.
:noidea:
shootmymime
New member
I'm trying to find the problem with my low boost pressure. And my 2.2 pulley didn't change anything from stock.
shootmymime
New member
Nipple come out of the super charger into a T fitting.
One runs to my 7th injector another to another T fitting that splits off and goes to my FPR and my boost gauge.
Boost gauge is soft rubber hose connection into a hard line
One runs to my 7th injector another to another T fitting that splits off and goes to my FPR and my boost gauge.
Boost gauge is soft rubber hose connection into a hard line
shootmymime
New member
My urd gauge only reads 3.5 psi when I have it floored.
shootmymime
New member
I need someone who has the 7th injector to go over their settings with me and is running R4 software
shootmymime
New member
MTD
New member
Knicks knocks and taping is really not good a low grumble isn't good either. A steady buzz is normal.
shootmymime
New member
None of that with mine [emoji106]
I just finished taping all the connections with electrical tape to try and seal it a little better and maybe get a more accurate reading.
EDIT: something has to be wrong. when i accelorate it will build boost to 3-3.5 psi (currently my max) then suddenly fall off (urd gauge) and my 7th injector will quite spraying. i can replete this constantly. im trying to figure out whats wrong...
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0xfded
New member
IAC valve direction
SC install instructions helpfully suggest "black end towards throttle body".
This IAC valve they sent me has no black end.
I assume the airflow wants to be away from the IAC, so that it has vacuum assist and doesn't get unwanted boost pressure. If that's mistaken, would someone please correct me before I have this thing entirely back together? It would be much appreciated.
SC install instructions helpfully suggest "black end towards throttle body".
This IAC valve they sent me has no black end.
I assume the airflow wants to be away from the IAC, so that it has vacuum assist and doesn't get unwanted boost pressure. If that's mistaken, would someone please correct me before I have this thing entirely back together? It would be much appreciated.
shootmymime
New member
As you blow into the line. Air moves through it. If I does. The end with your lips goes on the throttle body side. The end that has air coming out goes on the supercharger side.
Essentially vacuum is pulled from the motor. But when it undergoes boost you don't want it blowing air into the throttle body.
So suck air into the motor not blowing out. Got it?
I looked into That yesterday.
