The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

I used a small butane torch to solder. Strip the ends. Loop them together. Heat for a couple seconds then drop solder on and watch it get sucked into every little strand then slide heat shrink back over connection and heat. Done. Much faster than using an iron.

I would NEVER use a butane torch, not saying it won't work but I wouldn't do it.
 
so with wiring the 7th injector, would it be a terrible idea to just wrap the two wires together and electrical tape them for the time being? i do not know how to solder and no shop wants to touch it because it goes into the ecu, so can i temporally tape them together then, learn how to solder and do it right later?


also you can safely unplug the ports from the ecu for easier access, correct?
i don't want to mess anything up by trying to free up more space

DO NOT just twist them together.

Even a "western union splice" is not very secure with stranded wire.

Feel free to google that.
 
did you unplug the wires so you could get more access?

yes i disconnected the batt. took all the 5 iirc plugs out the back of the ECU, stripped back plenty of factory electrical tape so i could separate the wires enough to get my fingers in between them and ether cut or slid the plastic wire shielding away from the wire and did my business.

I would NEVER use a butane torch, not saying it won't work but I wouldn't do it.

- superb comment right there. quality!

a little backing behind your argument might helpful so your comments dont come across as arrogant online.

[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]
 
yes i disconnected the batt. took all the 5 iirc plugs out the back of the ECU, stripped back plenty of factory electrical tape so i could separate the wires enough to get my fingers in between them and ether cut or slid the plastic wire shielding away from the wire and did my business.



- superb comment right there. quality!

a little backing behind your argument might helpful so your comments dont come across as arrogant online.

[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]

I'm not at all trying to be arrogant. just saying I've seen and had many debates about it.

I provided some evidence, not too sure what else you might want to hear?:uzi:
 
This is just a simple wire, the twist method works just fine. Heck, even butt connectors would work, though those might fail over a long period of time.

You might be an electrician or something and taught to do thing the best possible way, which is cool for you but for the rest of us, "secure" is good enough :)
 
This is just a simple wire, the twist method works just fine. Heck, even butt connectors would work, though those might fail over a long period of time.

You might be an electrician or something and taught to do thing the best possible way, which is cool for you but for the rest of us, "secure" is good enough :)
Um did I miss something or are butt connecters no longer a crimped connection lol.

And also there is no way in hell a butt connector is less secure in the long run. Twist and tape is ghetto shit. I have to agree with Angus on that at least.
 
My point was, I am sure that shootmymime did a good job of soldering his wiring. All one is trying to do is connect the wires without adding any resistance due to a loose or weak bond.

For the record, I don't use butt connectors on anything. Was just making a point.
 
My point was, I am sure that shootmymime did a good job of soldering his wiring.


Damn straight! No guys it works amazingly well. It holds so well. It just gets everything hotter faster and melts and pulls it in the wire superb. It's the only way I solder larger wires now.
 
Damn straight! No guys it works amazingly well. It holds so well. It just gets everything hotter faster and melts and pulls it in the wire superb. It's the only way I solder larger wires now.
I always have soldered everything too, It works great! I have a pretty neat iron that uses propane so you can control where the heat goes very nicely. Check out bernzomatic irons they are sweet!
 
In actual fact a proper crimp connection is better than soldering, as solder is technically a bad conductor and a good crimp connection excludes oxygen from the joint and deforms the metal to the point where it has a complete contact. This debate rages on because everyone seems to like soldering - but the factory connections are ALL crimped with the exception of joints exposed to water which will be crime first and then soldered....

Yes, solder is not the best conductor...that's why you should always use siliver solder when soldering wires or circuits, which we yall know siliver IS one of the best conductors. But then you can always use gold...lol!!

Crimp connections are good, but there is always that chance they can come lose. Especially depending on who's doing the work and what quality materials and equipment is used!

I would NEVER use a butane torch, not saying it won't work but I wouldn't do it.
I believe what [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] was referring to is this type of butane torch...which is made specifically for soldering. They make two styles. My favorite is like this one in the picture...the others type is a straight tube style. Both work really well. I preffer using Power Probe...always been good to me!

Power Probe, Inc.

image.jpg


I'm not taking sides Angus...just trying to help each other understand ��

Hope this helps guys

-Russel
 

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So, I was checking some parasitic battery draw today when I noticed this. See below. Don't know how that happened or how long ago the nut came off. Supercharger seems to be running just fine (I'm not driving it anymore, until it's fixed). My questions are, where do I purchase said nut, can I tighten it with out any special tools, and to what torque setting? Thanks!
 

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My shaft was broken clean off flush at the pulley. The PO said he still ran it like that. I was not sure about that so I drilled, tapped and put a fat washer and bolt in it to holy the pulley there.

Also hit up SC RUNNER, he rebuilds nose cones and might have a nut laying around.
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I used an impact gun and 18mm socket, but you do need to use a fair bit of "finesse" or it'll end up like his!

I see that there is loctite on the stock nut, so use it.

The stock nut id 18mm wrench size and looks like coarse thread metric I suppose you could get a nut just about anywhere if you measure the tread and pitch.

P.S. I don't know the torque value but it can't be that tight, it came right off of both TRD blowers I have currently with ease using my 1/2" Makita cordless impact.

(and NO, I don't own 2 superchargers, I am just in the middle of doing another install for a friend)
 
I guess I'll update this thread as well, I just installed my 2.65" pulley from pulleyboys (atkins rotary) and now I have a pretty solid 5psi of boost, I may leave it there because I am not too power hungry on this truck and I'd rather have the peace of mind of lower boost - less strain on everything involved.
 
Is the OEM fuel filter adequate for a S/C and 7th injector?

A new one yes, it is an often over looked item on the 'to-do' list when it comes to the supercharger.

Change it out to a new OEM one - having less crap restricting the fuel to the system may allow you to avoid the fuel pump. I haven't had to install it yet!!
 
Yeah I replaced mine like 6 months ago. I have yet needed to replace the fuel pump to a larger one. Just replace your filter every 30 k miles
 
Yeah, unless your stock pump is failing you won't need the pump - mine is WAY rich on the stock pump.

Tuning will fix that.
 
so i went to start my car today, and it didn't start. it will crank a lot but won't actually start. what could be the problem? could it be my wiring for the 7th injector? my new fuel pump? the fuel pump relay ? i really don't have any tools because I'm away at school, just a basic socket set. can someone please help.

also before this it used to take awhile to start like a lot of cranks before it would eventually turn over.


please someone help
 

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