shootmymime
New member
I can spin my bicycle.
I can also ride it with no handle bars. No handle bars. No handle bars.
I can also ride it with no handle bars. No handle bars. No handle bars.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
A stock Honda Civic will chirp the tires when it's wet outside. Heck, my slug of a Pickup that put out about 130 RWHP chirped when it was wet
I don't think a stock automatic civic will spin the tires from a stop (not without power braking at least) and not all the way to the rev limiter.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
The comment was made about tires chirping when the ground is wet, which I have done in a completely stock Honda Civic. But that's not really saying much.
Not sure if this is related to the supercharger/urd 7th injector install, but I developed a few check engine codes.
After the initial crank after install, she purred like a kitten. No issues. Took it on a test drive, gradually easing into the throttle more and more. Just as I pulled back into the yard, it wouldn't stay idling. Pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as well as removed and cleaned the IAC. Idled now, but still low rpm and rough through rpm band when revving the engine or driving.
Plugged in the scanner, and got a code that said P0100 mass airflow sensor circuit.
Went to the stealership, bought new MAF and installed it. Idles perfect, and no problems driving now.
Now it throws 3 codes with CEL, P0100, P0101, and P0110. Mass airflow circuit, mass airflow sensor/performance, and airflow temperature sensor.
Any ideas what to get rid of these gremlins?
After the initial crank after install, she purred like a kitten. No issues. Took it on a test drive, gradually easing into the throttle more and more. Just as I pulled back into the yard, it wouldn't stay idling. Pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as well as removed and cleaned the IAC. Idled now, but still low rpm and rough through rpm band when revving the engine or driving.
Plugged in the scanner, and got a code that said P0100 mass airflow sensor circuit.
Went to the stealership, bought new MAF and installed it. Idles perfect, and no problems driving now.
Now it throws 3 codes with CEL, P0100, P0101, and P0110. Mass airflow circuit, mass airflow sensor/performance, and airflow temperature sensor.
Any ideas what to get rid of these gremlins?
MTD
New member
Does the 7th piggy tap the maf circuit. That would be the first thing to check if that's the case.
shootmymime
New member
Spoke with Gadget today, and he said that his 7th kit does not interface with the MAF at all. The only thing I did since starting this install as far as the air delivery is an ISR mod, and supercharger.
ETA... the only ports the 7th taps into for my application (cali emilssions) are,
ignition switched
ignition ground
E1 ?
Crank (in/out)
Cam (in/out)
Air fuel ratio.
ETA... the only ports the 7th taps into for my application (cali emilssions) are,
ignition switched
ignition ground
E1 ?
Crank (in/out)
Cam (in/out)
Air fuel ratio.
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Not an automatic one.
TBuzz
New member
Heat spike problems
Ok supercharger guys here's my situation..
-SC'd with 7th injector,
-no fuel pump upgrade
-colder plugs installed
-170 stant thermostat
-Toyota red coolant
-smaller 4cyclinder tacoma radiator that low range sells(shouldn't be my issue)
-2.2 pulley
PART 1
I live at 6500 feet. I have never ever pushed the rpm gauge past 3600 rpm's. Up until the last few weeks, when climbing the mountian up the road my temps wouldn't get above 190 at 3,200 rpms going 70. Now they are getting higher than that at a much less grade. They do stabilize quickly when I get off the gas. When crawling in Moab they never got above 184 unless I started running the Ac...I was told by someone that I'm running to lean. At 3200 rpms and holding speed of 65 mph yesterday on same hill I'm getting 11.4-12.2 and a boost of no more than 5-6, engine temp of 212. I haven't seen boost any higher.
PART 2
Last year after running to Moab with [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] and comparing notes I wanted to change to the 170 thermostat. As I don't have the premium working area for some things I chise to have the dealer do it. Fast forward 4 months and I meet with [MENTION=85218]Toyotacolin[/MENTION] and [MENTION=88391]NateMob[/MENTION] for a run in the hi country. I developed a radiator leak and contacted low range. At that point still dreaming of ifs I put in a tacoma 4cyclinder radiator. I notice that the thermostat housing is leaking from the DEALERS install. I proceed to try and remove the supercharger tensioner bracket to access the housing. Well I can't get the 10x1.25mmx77mm flat head bolt out. It's only supposed to be torqued to about 43 lbs I think. I try and try and call the dealer. They sent out the tech and he couldn't get it out either. At that point they say get a replacement bolt and we'll get it out and replace it.
That day has come that I need to get it out and they are proposing this. They suggest to weld a nut to the bolt and then use a larger wrench to bust it free. They also said I need to get a bolt which I didn't initially think to be a big deal. You all know it is a BIG deal. Two weeks ago I filed a complaint with Toyota headquarters and have been trying to get this sorted out with the dealer. They are complaining about having to buy a tensioner bracket kit for $260 just to get that bolt.
At the recent event I was at I talked to several toyota and lexus techs. All of them said that's crazy to weld there and it should be drilled and reverse threaded out. My local Toyota dealer is dodging me again like I'm going to forget about it.
Ok supercharger guys here's my situation..
-SC'd with 7th injector,
-no fuel pump upgrade
-colder plugs installed
-170 stant thermostat
-Toyota red coolant
-smaller 4cyclinder tacoma radiator that low range sells(shouldn't be my issue)
-2.2 pulley
PART 1
I live at 6500 feet. I have never ever pushed the rpm gauge past 3600 rpm's. Up until the last few weeks, when climbing the mountian up the road my temps wouldn't get above 190 at 3,200 rpms going 70. Now they are getting higher than that at a much less grade. They do stabilize quickly when I get off the gas. When crawling in Moab they never got above 184 unless I started running the Ac...I was told by someone that I'm running to lean. At 3200 rpms and holding speed of 65 mph yesterday on same hill I'm getting 11.4-12.2 and a boost of no more than 5-6, engine temp of 212. I haven't seen boost any higher.
PART 2
Last year after running to Moab with [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] and comparing notes I wanted to change to the 170 thermostat. As I don't have the premium working area for some things I chise to have the dealer do it. Fast forward 4 months and I meet with [MENTION=85218]Toyotacolin[/MENTION] and [MENTION=88391]NateMob[/MENTION] for a run in the hi country. I developed a radiator leak and contacted low range. At that point still dreaming of ifs I put in a tacoma 4cyclinder radiator. I notice that the thermostat housing is leaking from the DEALERS install. I proceed to try and remove the supercharger tensioner bracket to access the housing. Well I can't get the 10x1.25mmx77mm flat head bolt out. It's only supposed to be torqued to about 43 lbs I think. I try and try and call the dealer. They sent out the tech and he couldn't get it out either. At that point they say get a replacement bolt and we'll get it out and replace it.
That day has come that I need to get it out and they are proposing this. They suggest to weld a nut to the bolt and then use a larger wrench to bust it free. They also said I need to get a bolt which I didn't initially think to be a big deal. You all know it is a BIG deal. Two weeks ago I filed a complaint with Toyota headquarters and have been trying to get this sorted out with the dealer. They are complaining about having to buy a tensioner bracket kit for $260 just to get that bolt.
At the recent event I was at I talked to several toyota and lexus techs. All of them said that's crazy to weld there and it should be drilled and reverse threaded out. My local Toyota dealer is dodging me again like I'm going to forget about it.
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Well the fatalistic theory would be that it sounds like maybe long term lean running and detonation (ping) has caused a had gasket failure?
Of course that IS the worst case scenario.
Do you have a wideband gauge in the truck?
Does it use or lose and coolant other than the leak at the T-stat housing?
First I would check that:
- You have proper flow through the rad ( I know it new but debris cold still clog it) you can use your step gun to shot the rad all over and see if it has even heat.
- Your thermostat is opening when it should
- Your fan is locking up when it should to cool
- If you suspect a head gasket, you can pressurize the cylinders one at a time and see if it goes into the cooling system.
- You can use a proper funnel that attaches to the rad to bleed any air out.
If it is only getting hot when you push it, then I would probably look at the rad flow and fan first.
Also - if your coolant level is even a little down (like a 1/2 cup of water) it'll cause the condition you describe.
Don't drive it too much like that as you will almost certainly cause some damage eventually, air around the heads etc.
Of course that IS the worst case scenario.
Do you have a wideband gauge in the truck?
Does it use or lose and coolant other than the leak at the T-stat housing?
First I would check that:
- You have proper flow through the rad ( I know it new but debris cold still clog it) you can use your step gun to shot the rad all over and see if it has even heat.
- Your thermostat is opening when it should
- Your fan is locking up when it should to cool
- If you suspect a head gasket, you can pressurize the cylinders one at a time and see if it goes into the cooling system.
- You can use a proper funnel that attaches to the rad to bleed any air out.
If it is only getting hot when you push it, then I would probably look at the rad flow and fan first.
Also - if your coolant level is even a little down (like a 1/2 cup of water) it'll cause the condition you describe.
Don't drive it too much like that as you will almost certainly cause some damage eventually, air around the heads etc.
Also - if you want that bolt out, drill the head off and pull off the bracket, you'll then be able to use vice grips to take it out.
You should be able to find the bolt through some of the online sources for hardware.
Worst case just buy the damn tensioner kit, it's not enough money to lose any sleep over. I know - principles right?
You should be able to find the bolt through some of the online sources for hardware.
Worst case just buy the damn tensioner kit, it's not enough money to lose any sleep over. I know - principles right?
SCRunner12
New member
I've been looking into a replacement bolt for a while and have some leads, but nothing solid. It's ridiculous you can't buy just the bolts of brackets. I'll let you know if I come up with anything.
In regards to the lean, do you think your stock fuel pump is causing it? I always thought you needed a larger fuel pump to offset the extra fuel especially with the 2.2.
In regards to the lean, do you think your stock fuel pump is causing it? I always thought you needed a larger fuel pump to offset the extra fuel especially with the 2.2.
The bolt can't be that hard to find, at the price they want you could have a machine shop machine a bolt.
In regards to the fuel, are you running the URD 7th injector setup? If so it's most likely a tuning issue.
MyHigh
New member
Yeah but can you take apart a remote and, almost put it back together
foxrider56
New member
so i pulled my plugs to look at them and they are black, which now makes sense as to why it has a hard time starting. i want to run ngk plugs because i hear they are better, anyone now the part number on them ? i tried looking on the first page but cant seem to find them .
thanks
thanks
Supermoney
New member
Get a wideband!! You are in the dark without it
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I know exactly which bolt you are talking about... it took me like and hour and a half to get out myself! I was able to get it out though without any crazy methods though, I guess I got lucky.
The dealer should warranty their work, unless it's been too long and past the warranty. Usually it's a mileage warranty though, you should look into it. If you kept the receipt it should have the mileage when the repair was done.
:rant: WHATS THE POINT OF THE SUPERCHARGER IF YOU DON'T DRIVE IT OVER 3600 RPMS
/rant Ok I'm done
I hope you can get the dealer to step up and get it fixed! The shop I go to have a "get it done no matter what" attitude that I loved about them. Then even kept my truck overnight once to heat cycle over and over again to get a stuck spark plug out (not my fault, previous owner).
20_HiluxSurf_02
New member
Water/meth inspiration.
Heres a mid to late 2014 water/meth article from fourwheeler.
1998 Toyota 4Runner - Meth Addict - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine
Heres a mid to late 2014 water/meth article from fourwheeler.
1998 Toyota 4Runner - Meth Addict - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine
lhsoulrebel
New member
So its time to replace my coupler... Does anyone have recommendations with witch company to purchase it from?? Couplers to stay away from?? I have the older grey sc, but I think I can leave the sc on the truck with a little work...(Thread on page one) Everyone using the GM super charger oil? Thanks
Fishwerks
New member
In this article they use some NGK spark plugs, part number BCPR7ET with a 3-ground electrode instead of the single-ground Denso IK22s that URD recommends. Anybody have experience with these NGK plugs? Might help fix the short life span the single-ground plugs have with the wasted spark ignition?
Link to the plugs - [NGK-BCPR7ET] - $8.00 : NGK Spark Plugs Store
