The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

Before you get all power crazy and go for a tune wait for my FIC tutorial so you have more choices for tuning :cheers:

I got it all installed this last weekend :) and it is super nice to work with

Trust me, I am curious. It seems supper chargers are like hot women, they seem perfect until you get one. Then you realized they do have some flaws.
I told everyone I would never get into all that crazy tunning crap. There's that word never again.
 
Alright, I have a lead on a 1st gen supercharger. It is not local to me (3 hrs). Seller does not know how many miles are on it but said he took it off his 4runner which had 200K+. Seller sent me these pics. What am I missing or is everything there? Seller said these are not in the pictures but he has them... TRD vacuume/boost pillar gauge and throttle cable bracket

I think it will need a rebuild.

I agree on the rebuild, I bet the pulley has some slop and the bearings aren't what they are used to be. As far a parts, I don't have a 1st gen charger so I can't say for sure... but that looks like all the essentials. You may be missing some brackets for the cables though, not sure.

If you're not comfortable doing the rebuild yourself then it'll be about $500 to rebuild, FYI. You can run it as it but you won't be getting as much boost as you could. Won't hurt much of anything, if the bearings go bad it's not gonna blow up or something. It will make a lot of noise though.
 
Now that's pretty interesting. I'll definitely watch out for that.



Starting out nice and simple with the stock pulley, 170 thermometer, IK22 plugs, and premium gas. Will increment upwards from there as needed.



The only things I need to sort out at this point are making dipstick and wire relocation brackets, and hoping that Camelback comes through with the IAC check valve. Local dealership said they're out of stock cross country... suck.

I didn't need a dipstick relocation for mine. It was plenty out of the way.

Yeah, some. My daughter lives in Shawnee. When I first lurking months back I noticed you had some KC connection.


Oh cool. Maybe we will meet up in a couple months.
 
I agree on the rebuild, I bet the pulley has some slop and the bearings aren't what they are used to be. As far a parts, I don't have a 1st gen charger so I can't say for sure... but that looks like all the essentials. You may be missing some brackets for the cables though, not sure.

If you're not comfortable doing the rebuild yourself then it'll be about $500 to rebuild, FYI. You can run it as it but you won't be getting as much boost as you could. Won't hurt much of anything, if the bearings go bad it's not gonna blow up or something. It will make a lot of noise though.

Sweet man, thanks for the advice. I think he wants ~$500 so it's a decent price. He said it made good boost when he removed. Is rebuilding the second gen any different from the first?
 
Sweet man, thanks for the advice. I think he wants ~$500 so it's a decent price. He said it made good boost when he removed. Is rebuilding the second gen any different from the first?

A little, I actually almost would prefer the first gen because I could remove the blower from the manifold and get that sucker ported :becky:
 
Sweet man, thanks for the advice. I think he wants ~$500 so it's a decent price. He said it made good boost when he removed. Is rebuilding the second gen any different from the first?

Yes, see the front page of this massive thread for some links on how to do it. The 2nd Gen is super easy, you just buy a new nose cone, check the rear bearings and that's it. The first gens you have to dissasemble the nose cone yourself or pay a performance shop (that's the $500 figure) to do it. Even then, not all shops can or have the expertise to do it.

Luckily though, Superchargers are simple in design. It's not rocket science, there's a pulley, the gears, the rotors and the bearings. That's really it. There's a few seals and plastic components but not much at all. But for $500 that's a steal! Even if you have to do a full rebuild, that's still an awesome price. Most people will pay up to $2,000 for a used one!
 
Before you get all power crazy and go for a tune wait for my FIC tutorial so you have more choices for tuning :cheers:

I got it all installed this last weekend :) and it is super nice to work with

AEM? Been looking them over. Very intriguing!
 
AEM? Been looking them over. Very intriguing!
Yep and I gotta tell ya it is indeed, no doubt the best way to tune our trucks. I will dispute it till the end of the Earth. I have had mine on it the last two days and from road tuning alone I have a very dependable and not to mention efficient tune on the thing. Don't get me wrong there is still quite a bit of room to improve, but it is way more drivable than stock! I should have a full writeup on install and tuning, including sample maps by the end of the month. I was honestly a bit worried because there was literally no documentation out there with someone using it on our trucks. I'm really glad I took the risk though it certainly has paid off :-)
 
Yep and I gotta tell ya it is indeed, no doubt the best way to tune our trucks. I will dispute it till the end of the Earth. I have had mine on it the last two days and from road tuning alone I have a very dependable and not to mention efficient tune on the thing. Don't get me wrong there is still quite a bit of room to improve, but it is way more drivable than stock! I should have a full writeup on install and tuning, including sample maps by the end of the month. I was honestly a bit worried because there was literally no documentation out there with someone using it on our trucks. I'm really glad I took the risk though it certainly has paid off :-)

You have me very intrigued! I truly am looking forward to reading your write-up!! If this works as good as you hope...is this something you will be able to email your final tune to me, then I up load it to my rig...thus having a great starting point?? Or better yet, I could just use your tune and drive? Sorry...just trying to fully understand this.

Thank you for your time and patience...

- Russel
 
You have me very intrigued! I truly am looking forward to reading your write-up!! If this works as good as you hope...is this something you will be able to email your final tune to me, then I up load it to my rig...thus having a great starting point?? Or better yet, I could just use your tune and drive? Sorry...just trying to fully understand this.

Thank you for your time and patience...

- Russel

All of my stuff is going to be open source so I will have all of my maps posted for the public to download. There is no guarantee that it will just work everytime with every vehicle because each is unique in its own little way, but it should be close if the mods are similar.

You guys should check out AEMdata though, its the software that I put my logs from the FIC/6 into after I am done, that alone should be a reason to switch over to this system.

Also guys I am realizing that I will most likely not need any larger or additional injectors with this setup unless i increase boost. So that is awesome since I have a total of like $350 invested :bravo:

Here is a screen shot, not mine but gives you a very very basic idea of what it can do

aem_widebandfailsafe_aemdata_0.jpg
 
All of my stuff is going to be open source so I will have all of my maps posted for the public to download. There is no guarantee that it will just work everytime with every vehicle because each is unique in its own little way, but it should be close if the mods are similar.

You guys should check out AEMdata though, its the software that I put my logs from the FIC/6 into after I am done, that alone should be a reason to switch over to this system.

Also guys I am realizing that I will most likely not need any larger or additional injectors with this setup unless i increase boost. So that is awesome since I have a total of like $350 invested :bravo:

Here is a screen shot, not mine but gives you a very very basic idea of what it can do

Heck, if you've got all that you're not far from an even faster rig. I'm sure you're aware of using Supra injectors (URD started this) and you can get 6 rebuilt ones for $150 or so on Ebay. Add a 2.1 inch pulley for $99 and now you've got a beast of an engine, since you already have a way to tune it with the AEM setup.
 
Heck, if you've got all that you're not far from an even faster rig. I'm sure you're aware of using Supra injectors (URD started this) and you can get 6 rebuilt ones for $150 or so on Ebay. Add a 2.1 inch pulley for $99 and now you've got a beast of an engine, since you already have a way to tune it with the AEM setup.
I know, but since I'm still in school and its my dd I have to keep it conservative. I am gonna get a meth kit and keep the stock pulley and shoot for high 200's low 300's ;)
 
Does anyone have the stock URD map for the 7th injector? I just got a modified map from A.Wilson, but wanted to compare with the stock map. My map was messed with a bit from the PO, so I'm not sure what the stock Map is supposed to look like.
 
Does anyone have the stock URD map for the 7th injector? I just got a modified map from A.Wilson, but wanted to compare with the stock map. My map was messed with a bit from the PO, so I'm not sure what the stock Map is supposed to look like.


I've got one if you send me the modified map. Tell me what your map is tuned for.

[email protected] and ill forward it to you, do you have the R4 software to run the map? i take it you do.
 
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I have a question about the 170 degree thermostat, the Stant 14077:

Is there a particular install orientation, like the OEM 180 degree t-stats? I recall reading that those need to be put on at 12:00 (or 6:00, one or the other) or else they don't work right.

Haven't found anything to suggest that it matters here, but safer asking.
 
I have a question about the 170 degree thermostat, the Stant 14077:

Is there a particular install orientation, like the OEM 180 degree t-stats? I recall reading that those need to be put on at 12:00 (or 6:00, one or the other) or else they don't work right.

Haven't found anything to suggest that it matters here, but safer asking.

I did 6 o'clock position per the FSM. But in all reality, it's not gonna make that much of a difference. If you have heat problems because of the position on a 1/8 in hole, well let's just say that's not your problem!
 
Well the tuning mayhem has officially begun! I hadn't realized that I have a narrow band o2 on my Runner which meant all of the tune I built earlier this week is essentially useless, and the ECU will just trim it out. I started on the new tune last night and quickly realized that if I am going to road tune I will need a logging software for OBD2 so that I can log my fuel trims. I don't have anyone around for live tuning so I have to stop after every pull and make adjustments on the side of the road, which i have found is pretty dangerous. I picked up a OBD2 USB scanner from Amazon today that has logging capability so hope fully I will be able to just do a couple pulls go home and modify the tune in the drive way. Here is the cable I got, I will let you guys know how it goes:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZWM0R4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
 
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don't have anyone around for live tuning so I have to stop after every pull and make adjustments on the side of the road, which i have found is pretty dangerous



[]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZWM0R4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00[/url]


I just jumped from on ramp to on ramp and made adjustments. Getting off the highway is much safer.
 
so I've been trying to connect to my 7th injector so i can start tuning but my computer never connects, it will always say its starting to install it but then just quits unexpectedly. does anyone know what my problem could be? I'm using a serial cable to usb cord that i bought from radio shack, i have the r4 software open, and installed on a windows 8 pc. would it be the cable I'm using?
 

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