The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[afg10000]

RussToy, is this what you're asking? I took some pics. Hope it helps.

 

[RussToy]

RussToy, is this what you're asking? I took some pics. Hope it helps.

[MENTION=88079]afg10000[/MENTION] Thank you for responding. That's awesome how you can put the arrows and circles on your pictures!!

Now the area you drew on, I understand that part...which is in the installation directions. My question is: what do I do with the line that is in his hand? Thank you

 

[HuntG212]

That taps into the evap line also. Going by the trd install guide

 

[A.Wilson013]

curious as to what everyones opinion on the urd crankshaft pulley is?Underdog Racing Development the claim is that "for every pound reduced in rotational mass of the crankshaft assembly, you gain 2.7 acceleration horsepower." anyone have any experience with this ?

[MENTION=30949]SIKHILUXSURF[/MENTION] has one.. I believe he said it made the throttle a bit more snappy. You could skim his build for more info.

 

[afg10000]

[MENTION=88079]afg10000[/MENTION] Thank you for responding. That's awesome how you can put the arrows and circles on your pictures!!

Now the area you drew on, I understand that part...which is in the installation directions. My question is: what do I do with the line that is in his hand? Thank you

No sweat. Pretty sure that's the 4wd vacuum line. I could be wrong but it has to be hooked to a vacuum line somewhere. Originally it plugged into the side of the stock intake. My impression is if that has no vacuum, your ADD won't work. Don't quote me on this but I know it needs vacuum.

 

[Run 4 Fun]

The TRD throttle body gasket is completely round as opposed to the stock one. I just popped by the dealer and got one. I don't recall it being all that expensive. Just make sure you put it on the right way -

After doing some research I came to that conclusion. Ordered me one and will install as I believe I have the "D" gasket currently installed. I'm going to go ahead and change out the gaskets while it's apart. Anyone have a part number for the lower intake manifold?

 

[s20004runner]

after doing some research i came to that conclusion. Ordered me one and will install as i believe i have the "d" gasket currently installed. I'm going to go ahead and change out the gaskets while it's apart. Anyone have a part number for the lower intake manifold?

17176-62040

i believe you need just one if you are putting on the s/c. if you don't, you need two.

 

[SCRunner12]

[MENTION=88079]afg10000[/MENTION] Thank you for responding. That's awesome how you can put the arrows and circles on your pictures!!

Now the area you drew on, I understand that part...which is in the installation directions. My question is: what do I do with the line that is in his hand? Thank you

You T that line into the line coming from the evap system. Check out page 17 of the install manual. http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/miscinfo/TRD34LSCInstal.pdf

 

[Run 4 Fun]

17176-62040

i believe you need just one if you are putting on the s/c. if you don't, you need two.

Thank you kind sir.

 

[4Reak Show]

7th injector tuning/general chit chat

Hey hey just joined here after reading thru entire thread on my lunch breaks the past few days...killer info. Seeing if anyone had any luck tuning the URD 7th just by feel?? I know it sounds insane, but so does a $300+ A/F gauge when she certainly feels awfully beastly...(my transmission is a M/T '93 so it has a lot shorter, torque-ier gears)

I'm not one of those guys who wants to drive it like an @$$hole everywhere either. She's my pride and joy and the last remaining piece of my youth! Also the 3.4 conversion project (2 yrs, $5K) taught me that NOTHING is impossible. Period! And it's all junkyard/used parts but runs like a Toyota. And smog legal.

Anyway, seeing what the thoughts were. Or if anyone wanted to know how to wire in toggle switches so that the URD can be disabled and bypassed, both for fail safe issues as well as smog checks, if that should arise. Mine worked out wonderfully.
Let me know what you guys think overall or if I'm totally insane running basically stock URD Maps, besides 10% increase in both fuel and timing values across the board, + tweaks at the low end for pinging. Since I don't have A/F gauge I figured rich and retarded is better than the opposite? No tuning experience, but an ASE Mastertech so get as technical as you wish.

 

[MTD]

Hey hey just joined here after reading thru entire thread on my lunch breaks the past few days...killer info. Seeing if anyone had any luck tuning the URD 7th just by feel?? I know it sounds insane, but so does a $300+ A/F gauge when she certainly feels awfully beastly...(my transmission is a M/T '93 so it has a lot shorter, torque-ier gears)

I'm not one of those guys who wants to drive it like an @$$hole everywhere either. She's my pride and joy and the last remaining piece of my youth! Also the 3.4 conversion project (2 yrs, $5K) taught me that NOTHING is impossible. Period! And it's all junkyard/used parts but runs like a Toyota. And smog legal.

Anyway, seeing what the thoughts were. Or if anyone wanted to know how to wire in toggle switches so that the URD can be disabled and bypassed, both for fail safe issues as well as smog checks, if that should arise. Mine worked out wonderfully.
Let me know what you guys think overall or if I'm totally insane running basically stock URD Maps, besides 10% increase in both fuel and timing values across the board, + tweaks at the low end for pinging. Since I don't have A/F gauge I figured rich and retarded is better than the opposite? No tuning experience, but an ASE Mastertech so get as technical as you wish.

Well a really good quality AFR gauge is only $160. There is zero chance of you tuning it by feel, it just isn't possible. If you add too much fuel performance will also suffer greatly. I would get an AEM UEGO, you can get it on Amazon.

Did you buy the 7th yet? If not you may want to wait for my write up on the AEM FI/C. I should have it done by the end of the week.

 

[4Reak Show]

Well a really good quality AFR gauge is only $160. There is zero chance of you tuning it by feel, it just isn't possible. If you add too much fuel performance will also suffer greatly. I would get an AEM UEGO, you can get it on Amazon.

Did you buy the 7th yet? If not you may want to wait for my write up on the AEM FI/C. I should have it done by the end of the week.

Oh ok thanks. That's pretty much what I figured, but I tell you she runs like a bat outta hell (remember I started with the 2nd gen 3.0 and Auto in this rig). So as long as it doesn't ping when I'm getting on it like it used to, I'm pleased.

As far as gauges go, I'm eyeing the Uego 30-4900 which is a combo boost/wideband type deal. But for now I'm in no rush. Only gets used for very efficiently quick Home Depot runs once a week.
And yes I already bought the URD like 4 yrs ago. Just recently installed it. Had to wait for my stainless steel fuel line to explode unexpectedly so I could tap into the newly created hose.
But at any rate you should still post it. The more info we all have the better. Thanks in advance.

 

[MTD]

Oh ok thanks. That's pretty much what I figured, but I tell you she runs like a bat outta hell (remember I started with the 2nd gen 3.0 and Auto in this rig). So as long as it doesn't ping when I'm getting on it like it used to, I'm pleased.

As far as gauges go, I'm eyeing the Uego 30-4900 which is a combo boost/wideband type deal. But for now I'm in no rush. Only gets used for very efficiently quick Home Depot runs once a week.
And yes I already bought the URD like 4 yrs ago. Just recently installed it. Had to wait for my stainless steel fuel line to explode unexpectedly so I could tap into the newly created hose.
But at any rate you should still post it. The more info we all have the better. Thanks in advance.

I would spend the money and get a good AFR gauge. Some may disagree, but a boost gauge is more of a toy. Especially on a mechanical supercharger like ours since we don't suffer from boost creep like a turbo charger.

I would just get a good quality dedicated AFR gauge and a cheaper boost gauage if you feel you need it.

 

[0xfded]

[MENTION=88079]afg10000[/MENTION] Thank you for responding. That's awesome how you can put the arrows and circles on your pictures!!

Now the area you drew on, I understand that part...which is in the installation directions. My question is: what do I do with the line that is in his hand? Thank you

All signs and knowledgable minds point to it being the 4WD VSV line.

I actually followed shootmymime's tip and tapped into the vacuum line here instead, since it's the same diameter and I had a T of that size handy:



It's off the little line you run between the throttle body and the nipple right on the SC:



This choice was largely motivated by the size of the T connector I had on hand, so doing it stock (as afg10000 and SCRunner12 recommend) is likely the better route if you have a T connector of the correct size handy.

And if you don't have one handy, capping it worked fine for me until I made the switch. Didn't affect the SC operation whatsoever.

 

[s20004runner]

Well a really good quality AFR gauge is only $160. There is zero chance of you tuning it by feel, it just isn't possible. If you add too much fuel performance will also suffer greatly. I would get an AEM UEGO, you can get it on Amazon.

Did you buy the 7th yet? If not you may want to wait for my write up on the AEM FI/C. I should have it done by the end of the week.

looking forward to your write up! I don't want to spend another $1K on URD 7th.

 

[MTD]

looking forward to your write up! I don't want to spend another $1K on URD 7th.

Ha-ha I'll get my a$$ in gear on that then! Looks like I know what I'm gonna do for my lunch hour.

 

[4Reak Show]

All signs and knowledgable minds point to it being the 4WD VSV line.

I actually followed shootmymime's tip and tapped into the vacuum line here instead, since it's the same diameter and I had a T of that size handy:

View attachment 164110

It's off the little line you run between the throttle body and the nipple right on the SC:

View attachment 164113

This choice was largely motivated by the size of the T connector I had on hand, so doing it stock (as afg10000 and SCRunner12 recommend) is likely the better route if you have a T connector of the correct size handy.

And if you don't have one handy, capping it worked fine for me until I made the switch. Didn't affect the SC operation whatsoever.

Totally agree. Every 4WD model I encounter in the shop, that line is simply vacuum supply for the entire VSV (vacuum switching valve) and ADD setup. Mine is a stranger build but I simple ran mine off of what appears to be port "E" in the diagram. The entire system uses a check valve as well as a vacuum storage tank so realistically any vacuum source should suffice.

 

[nor_cal51501]

URD 7th injector tuning

Hey y'all, been a while since I've been active. Sold my other project so I'm back to the runner. Ive had my 7th installed for some time now and never tuned it cause i didn't have a boost or AFR gauge(still haven't installed it). I was wondering if there is anyone in my local area that has theirs tuned either by themselves or by a shop that would care to share their tune so i can drive it for bit and start with that as a base tune. The stock map that URD sends with them is total garbage for my rig. I've got a 2001 sport with the black supercharger all stock pulleys. Thanks in advanced.

 

[MTD]

Hey y'all, been a while since I've been active. Sold my other project so I'm back to the runner. Ive had my 7th installed for some time now and never tuned it cause i didn't have a boost or AFR gauge(still haven't installed it). I was wondering if there is anyone in my local area that has theirs tuned either by themselves or by a shop that would care to share their tune so i can drive it for bit and start with that as a base tune. The stock map that URD sends with them is total garbage for my rig. I've got a 2001 sport with the black supercharger all stock pulleys. Thanks in advanced.

Hate to break it to ya, but with out the URD AFR calibrator you won't be able to get a reliable tune with the 7th. The ECU will just trim out the adjustments you make to part throttle boost and you will be back to being untuned in a few short trips. If you have a 99' auto or newer it is pretty much usless to have the 7th without that calibrator. Especially since you don't have any pulley mods. If you were to watch you're AFR's under Wot or an open loop you would see that they are pretty much spot on. Unfortunately it's the part throttle boost before you get to open loop that is the problem and the Urd 7th cannot tune 99 + autos in closed loop.

 

[nor_cal51501]

Hate to break it to ya, but with out the URD AFR calibrator you won't be able to get a reliable tune with the 7th. The ECU will just trim out the adjustments you make to part throttle boost and you will be back to being untuned in a few short trips. If you have a 99' auto or newer it is pretty much usless to have the 7th without that calibrator. Especially since you don't have any pulley mods. If you were to watch you're AFR's under Wot or an open loop you would see that they are pretty much spot on. Unfortunately it's the part throttle boost before you get to open loop that is the problem and the Urd 7th cannot tune 99 + autos in closed loop.

Well now I'm entirely lost....I thought the idea behind the URD 7th injector was that you only needed it because the injector controller it came with was able to be mapped for part throttle and such conditions in order to prevent the lean out condition these motors are plagued with when boosted...