The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

maverickhawk said:
OK, quick break from tuning tech. Now after rendering my wallet to a license holder it will be next spring before I can do any more major upgrades. Anything over 50 bucks is major in my house.

I have to say I am generally pleased with the performance of the SC by itself. It is not my DD so I run 93 octane with 1 gallon of 100 octane. This works great no knock no ping. My question is since I am also still getting air from an all stock air box do you guy's think I really need to get more air?
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I think an exhaust might be better. I have a k@n (before I sc it). And I think I'm getting too much air (afr are off a little bit from my tune.).

You can try it by removing the elbow or doing the deck plate mod. That's cheep. Oh and isr
 
shootmymime said:
I think an exhaust might be better. I have a k@n (before I sc it). And I think I'm getting too much air (afr are off a little bit from my tune.).

You can try it by removing the elbow or doing the deck plate mod. That's cheep. Oh and isr
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That's kinda what I was thinking. Just wanted more experienced opinions.

Hey Shooter when you coming to KC?
 
So I bought a used 4th gen supercharger that has been freshly rebuilt. I think it has ~100k on it but only 80 miles since the PO rebuilt it. The pully is not that easy to turn. I can't turn it at all with my fingers from the bolt. It takes more force then you would want by turning it from the pully. OiL level is right at the fill hole. Any guesses of what the issue could be.? I could make a video and upload it if that would help.
 
It seems like either the wrong seal was ordered and installed in the nose cone or it was installed incorrectly. After a rebuild the seal should be tight, but not that tight. It would be best to open it up and check out the seal and also make sure the rotors weren't installed too close to the rotor plate. Also the oil shouldn't be all the way to the top I believe. You only need about 120 ML in the 4th gen SC, so about 4.1 oz.

Who did the rebuild?
 
If he had a company like stiegmeier rebuild it there is a good chance it has freshly coated rotors which would make it turn harder. If he rebuilt it himself though you should definitely pull it apart, my guess is that if he did it the rotor pack bearings himself the lobes might be contacting one another and binding.
 
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He did the rebuild himself. He said he purchased the rebuild materials from Rolling Performance and spent about $150 doing so. He seems to know what he was doing and was surprised about how difficult it is to turn when it got to me. Part of the reason I bought from him is that it was rebuilt. Don't have quite the skills to do it myself so but might have to learn them.

Anyway, Looks like I will have to pull it apart. So once I get in there is there a easy way to find out what is wrong? Is there a process to test to different parts so I don't have to rebuild the whole thing?
 
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masphx said:
Anyway, Looks like I will have to pull it apart. So once I get in there is there a easy way to find out what is wrong? Is there a process to test to different parts so I don't have to rebuild the whole thing?
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Visual inspection mainly post some hi def pics here we can help out. I will reply right away when you post them cause I get notifications on my phone for this thread. Depending upon what he did you may have to have someone rebuild it anyway, but we can't be sure until we look. The #1 most important thing to make sure that it is working would be the rotor pack clearances. If he did do those bearings there is a good chance he f'ed it up, that is something I would never try to do because it is somewhat of an art to get right.
 
This is why Toyota sells the nose cone kit and does not touch the rotors or rear bearings (they can go bad but then you have to wonder if there's a bigger issue causing them to fail). I definitely understand the DIY to save money, but these rotors are spinning so fast even the slightest error or misalignment will ruin the whole thing. I bought my nose cone for $165, for for $15 more he would have been able to rebuild it in a fraction of the time and with more accuracy.

Definitely don't put that on your 4Runner until you find the problem.

P.S. my nose cone doesn't leak anymore, I had just incorrectly torqued some of the bolts at the bottom, tightened them up and all is well. I've got a seal I have no use for now.
 
gamefreakgc said:
This is why Toyota sells the nose cone kit and does not touch the rotors or rear bearings (they can go bad but then you have to wonder if there's a bigger issue causing them to fail). I definitely understand the DIY to save money, but these rotors are spinning so fast even the slightest error or misalignment will ruin the whole thing. I bought my nose cone for $165, for for $15 more he would have been able to rebuild it in a fraction of the time and with more accuracy.

Definitely don't put that on your 4Runner until you find the problem.

P.S. my nose cone doesn't leak anymore, I had just incorrectly torqued some of the bolts at the bottom, tightened them up and all is well. I've got a seal I have no use for now.
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You can DIY the nose cone too, I didn't TRD provided my first and Robert did the on one I'm putting on now, but that isn't a huge deal. The case or rear bearings, as you call them, I recommend you do AT LEAST every 90k miles, but the rotor bearings should be near a lifetime part. The case bearings need to be changed at the same time that the nose cone is done and they are really easy to do.

For the $150 you get every bearing and seal in the supercharger though not just the nose cone... so that is well and good, but like I said I would never ever attempt to change the rotor pack bearings, but the case bearings need to get done every 90k and they are pretty darn easy to do.
 
Before you tear the whole thing apart, pull the pulley off and post a picture of the seal. Might be installed wrong and be your problem.



For spark plugs people run Denso IK22 typically but I'm going to be running NGK BCPR7ET I believe soon.
 
Itz_magic said:
Why NGKs over denso? And i wont be running any fuel mods for about a month would that be a problem ?
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I don't know how many times I will need to sat it, but the TRD supercharger system will run just fine with out fuel mods. They are literally optional. For some there are problems associated with the supercharger but that is very few from what I am seeing. just don't beat it and you'll be fine. I do recommend getting a wide band as soon as possible though.
 
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