The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

How would I go about checking this and fixing it if it is true?

I think you will need to start to dis-assemble the nose cone to figure that one out. These two threads linked at the front have photos on how to do it:

3.4l 2nd gen (black) supercharger nose cone rebuild - TTORA Forum - with press

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3-4l-trd-supercharger-rebuild.267610/ - without press

After looking these over my comment about just buying the new nose cone will make more sense. Not that it's impossible to do but is quite a chore, especially if you don't have a press.
 
so I'm thinking about regearing to 4.88 mines lifted and I'm running 33s's i also have extra weight, bumper, paint, tools so I'm wondering if you guys think that will be good for me, i DD it so i don't want to make it terrible for highway. also will this regear make me noticeably have more acceleration?
 
I think you will need to start to dis-assemble the nose cone to figure that one out. These two threads linked at the front have photos on how to do it:

3.4l 2nd gen (black) supercharger nose cone rebuild - TTORA Forum - with press

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3-4l-trd-supercharger-rebuild.267610/ - without press

After looking these over my comment about just buying the new nose cone will make more sense. Not that it's impossible to do but is quite a chore, especially if you don't have a press.

I might just go with buying the whole new nose cone route. Where did you buy yours for $165? All I see is $228?
 
I bought mine before they discontinued the superchargers from a forum member, there used to be people selling them from time to time. I'm not sure if that's the case anymore. You could also do a quick check on Ebay or other forums like TTora, Toyota Nation or Tacoma World.

From what I remember, the TRD Parts 4 U site was the second best route as far as price goes.
 
How would I go about checking this and fixing it if it is true?

leave the nose cone off. put the pulley on the nose cone. spin the nose cone shaft. if its hard to turn, its rubbing.

spin the rotor packs while they are still sealed inside the supercharger by turning them with the nose cone off. you may get some resistance but not near as bad as what it was all back together in your video.

you just need to press the nose cone shaft out a little bit more.
 
so I'm thinking about regearing to 4.88 mines lifted and I'm running 33s's i also have extra weight, bumper, paint, tools so I'm wondering if you guys think that will be good for me, i DD it so i don't want to make it terrible for highway. also will this regear make me noticeably have more acceleration?

With 33's, yes. From a dead stop, my old manual pickup that I think had 4.56 gears had more pep in it for the first second or so.

However, it's pricey once you factor in all the parts needed and labor. Up to you if the extra costs and work is worth it. To be honest, one of the major hindrances is the 4-speed auto transmission. It just doesn't want to play nice with the supercharger, although using the ECT Power mode does help a bit. I wanted so bad to get a manual supercharged 4Runner but that's a pipe dream here in California, no one ever sells one if they get one. I think a 5-speed swap would be just as effective, if not more so (and a whole lot of fun to drive!).
 
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leave the nose cone off. put the pulley on the nose cone. spin the nose cone shaft. if its hard to turn, its rubbing.

spin the rotor packs while they are still sealed inside the supercharger by turning them with the nose cone off. you may get some resistance but not near as bad as what it was all back together in your video.

you just need to press the nose cone shaft out a little bit more.

Willing to try to press the nose cone out a little bit. Any tips for getting this done? I don't have a press and I also don't know how much I should press it out. I'm assuming just enough so the pulley does not rub on the housing?

Some type of punch and a rubber mallet to do the 'pressing'?
 
You may get some clearance tapping it with a hammer but it may also push the front bearing out of place. I would remove the front seal. Put a deep socket to fit the inside of the bearing before tapping on it at all. You will probably need a new seal.
 
does the play in the pully look fine to yall ?

From what you showed, it looks ok. Mostly though the play is noticeable if you spin it back and forth instead of just one direction. If it seems like it loses connection with the rotors when you do that they you might have some play. However if you opened it up and the gears are good and the adapter is good, then you shouldn't have any issues.
 
Hose Routing

Can someone help me out, where does this guy route to?


edit: got it, thanks gadget.

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Super.htm

20180650315_234f11aea6_h.jpg
 
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Welp I notice HG/LP Today.

Driving with a loaded truck and 95 deg temps outside. Elevation is 5000 Intake temps is 100.4.
Right around 70 mph and 2,500 rpm it's the worst. Not real loud. ( naively louder than the wind). But it's a little noise that sounds like metal bar is bounding around for a few seconds.

So when that happens I just push on the throttle a bit to activate my 7th injector and speed up a touch. It's amazing the pitch of the motor makes when the 7th injector is firing and when it's not. It just sounds better. Oh and my AFR are 13.5 part throttle and full throttle I saw them as low as 11.5 which is perfect for me.

2.2 pulley makes hills feel so much smaller. It actually hauls ass and accelerates up large hills.
 
The good old PO330 is not going away. Knock sensor code. Bank 2. Same side I've been hearing the noise from. YAY.
 
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7th Injector Wiring

I am having an issue now that I installed URD's 7th injector. All my wiring is correct per the wiring that was given with the kit. I have three left over wires that aren't mentioned on the instructions. White, White/Green, and Orange.


<img src="http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p779/zacforsale/D706D0A9-F734-4A0A-AEA8-A71B317552E9_zpsicd5wfhr.jpg" border="0" height="800">


But now I am getting codes for the O2 sensor and not just pending, they will become stored. The sensors are less than a month old and are denso brand so they aren't the problem.


<img src="http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p779/zacforsale/4821430F-2153-4B3E-9086-F5ED3B102DFD_zpsh3axessk.png" border="0" height="800">


The wiring instructions say pink/blue into the white wire into the ECU and pink into the white wire to the sensor.


<img src="http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p779/zacforsale/2ECA36A5-0FF0-4888-B133-28CBAD4ED0C6_zpsmi6ltg4y.jpg" border="0" height="800">

<img src="http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p779/zacforsale/FD7A0A56-D9D5-4ED2-BA1B-0C3BD9FB0947_zpsbwxda1w5.jpg" border="0" height="800">


Anyone with a '98 have any issues or see something that isn't right on the wiring instructions? I emailed URD and Gadget just told me to check my wiring. I have double checked it and he didn't email me back today.
 

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