The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
RussToy
New member
Hey guys...I finally have my supercharger installed and everything else put back together. So I went to start my engine, which it started right up...but I have a problem...the engines not running correctly. It's running a little rough and smoking quite a bit out of the exahust.
I have a catch can attached inline on my PVC hose...and within 10-15 minutes run time...the can is already half filled with oil!! So, for whatever reason the SC is causing a positive pressure in the engine...thus, causing oil to be pushed by the rings and being burned. And also pushing oil out the PVC valve. Unsure if I have some vacuum lines wrong? I've sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the supercharger looking for a vacuum leak...but the engine never fluctuated in RPM. Have any of yall heard of this? Any ideas. Runs like junk...no power at all? Any and all help would be appreciated!
This totally sucks!! Waited so long to install my supercharger. Then I fianlly got it installed....I Still can't drive it! It's like opening a Christmas present and you can't play with it because there's no batteries :dammit:
2000 4Runner...2nd gen (black) supercharger...otherwise completely stock
Thanks guys...
- Russel
I have a catch can attached inline on my PVC hose...and within 10-15 minutes run time...the can is already half filled with oil!! So, for whatever reason the SC is causing a positive pressure in the engine...thus, causing oil to be pushed by the rings and being burned. And also pushing oil out the PVC valve. Unsure if I have some vacuum lines wrong? I've sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the supercharger looking for a vacuum leak...but the engine never fluctuated in RPM. Have any of yall heard of this? Any ideas. Runs like junk...no power at all? Any and all help would be appreciated!
This totally sucks!! Waited so long to install my supercharger. Then I fianlly got it installed....I Still can't drive it! It's like opening a Christmas present and you can't play with it because there's no batteries :dammit:
2000 4Runner...2nd gen (black) supercharger...otherwise completely stock
Thanks guys...
- Russel
Rockdawg84
New member
Russ, how many miles on your motor? I cant think of any way the supercharger would pressurize the crankcase other than past the rings. but if it was running good before it seems unlikely. From the diagram there shouldn't be any way to have pressure go into the crank case.
Do you have a boost gauge? how much boost are you making?
Do you have a boost gauge? how much boost are you making?
thatoneguygeoff
New member
RussToy
New member
:dammit:
Thanks for the response. My motor has 175,000 miles on it...but is in excellent condition! Did a leak down last year and all 6cyl were all within 1.5% of each other. Zero slug! Ran great before I took her off the road. Replaced the TB, water pump and all the normal stuff. Put in the 170* thermostat. Starts quickly...just runs rough. But that's why I'm so confused, as to how/why it's pushing oil out of the PCV valve into the cylinders. I do have a boost gauge, but have not installed yet.
My thought was to start the engine and finish button up everything so I could drive it...then install my gauges later in the weekend.
Still open to any suggestions! Thanks guys...I'm going to double check the vacuum lines...maybe a have my check valve the wrong way? Would that cause this?
Russ, how many miles on your motor? I cant think of any way the supercharger would pressurize the crankcase other than past the rings. but if it was running good before it seems unlikely. From the diagram there shouldn't be any way to have pressure go into the crank case.
Do you have a boost gauge? how much boost are you making?
Thanks for the response. My motor has 175,000 miles on it...but is in excellent condition! Did a leak down last year and all 6cyl were all within 1.5% of each other. Zero slug! Ran great before I took her off the road. Replaced the TB, water pump and all the normal stuff. Put in the 170* thermostat. Starts quickly...just runs rough. But that's why I'm so confused, as to how/why it's pushing oil out of the PCV valve into the cylinders. I do have a boost gauge, but have not installed yet.
My thought was to start the engine and finish button up everything so I could drive it...then install my gauges later in the weekend.
Still open to any suggestions! Thanks guys...I'm going to double check the vacuum lines...maybe a have my check valve the wrong way? Would that cause this?
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shootmymime
New member
[MENTION=72272]RussToy[/MENTION]. It can't be pressurizing the system because boost does not come on at idle. It should run and idle fine. When does it run rough? All the time? Just under boost? Only at idle?
[MENTION=108784]Rockdog[/MENTION]84 is correct the only way it could be getting pressure past is blow by.
Would the throttle body check valve installed wrong change anything?
EDIT You can loosely hook up your boost gauge for testing purposes. Do you know how and where it goes on the back of the SC
[MENTION=108784]Rockdog[/MENTION]84 is correct the only way it could be getting pressure past is blow by.
Would the throttle body check valve installed wrong change anything?
EDIT You can loosely hook up your boost gauge for testing purposes. Do you know how and where it goes on the back of the SC
shootmymime
New member
Text me 816 . Don't quote this message, I'll delete it in a bit
[MENTION=72272]RussToy[/MENTION]
[MENTION=72272]RussToy[/MENTION]
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shootmymime
New member
RussToy
New member
I'm wondering if my Throttle Body Check Valve isn't installed backwards?? I Have been think about that. So I'll check that and double check my vacuum lines. And I'll go ahead and install my boost gauge...so I can see what's going on there also
Unfortunately I won't be able to get over to work on her until late day...or tomorrow morning?!? Toady was already promised as a honey-do-day :yield:
Thanks for the number [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION].
What size tires are you running? Are you back home now? I might be ordering a 2" BL soon.
shootmymime
New member
That video was shot at 4,500 ft elevation.
265 70 16.
No I will be dec 27. Long vacation!!
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RussToy
New member
I think I figured out what's going on with my supercharger. I started rechecking all my vacuum line...and found that several were incorrectly ran. When I orginally hooked them up, I had a buddy over "helping" me. I have know idea what he did, but he diffienitly wasn't following the instructions!!
So I've started all over on the vacuum lines...while doing so, I found 2 bolts that were loose. Therefore, I'm also going to go back over and re-check all the work my buddy did. Some people just don't have any mechicanical ability...and should stay away from working/helping on cars.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions...especially a big shoutout to [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]. If I still have problems after re-running all the vacuum lines...I'll give you a call. Thanks again!!
- Russel
So I've started all over on the vacuum lines...while doing so, I found 2 bolts that were loose. Therefore, I'm also going to go back over and re-check all the work my buddy did. Some people just don't have any mechicanical ability...and should stay away from working/helping on cars.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions...especially a big shoutout to [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]. If I still have problems after re-running all the vacuum lines...I'll give you a call. Thanks again!!
- Russel
dunktap
New member
So after reading through all 100 pages of this massive thread, I have a few questions.
I purchased a used 2nd gen supercharger with some bearing noise, but It did come with everything needed to install (other than the throttle bracket, dipstick relocation bracket, and the other wireloom bracket).
Any update on where I could get these brackets? Or is the full kit with all of those other unneeded items still my best bet aside from attempting to make my own?
As for the bearing noise, I plan on just purchasing an entirely new nose cone kit from toyota. I am, however, a little confused about the rear bearings on the 2nd gen. Is there a way to tell if these are bad while I still have the supercharger on the workbench? What is the way that most of you go about replacing/maintaining these?
I have a 96 auto and I am wondering what others have done to remedy the "ECU not playing well with the pre 99 4runners" issue?
Also -- since the URD 7th injector kit supports open & closed loop tuning with my 96 auto having the narrowband O2 setup, I am wondering if I should
1) purchase a used URD 7th injector kit
OR
2)
do the AEM F/IC-6 ( http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...6-install-tuning-help-thread.html#post2062909 ) along with a Devils Own ( DevilsOwn Methanol Injection : Water Injection - DevilsOwn Injection ) methanol injection kit.
One more thing! Somebody in a recent post said that driving a 4runner with a supercharger is no different than driving a NA 4runner until WOT. How accurate is this?
Cheers and I can't wait to get this thing installed.
I purchased a used 2nd gen supercharger with some bearing noise, but It did come with everything needed to install (other than the throttle bracket, dipstick relocation bracket, and the other wireloom bracket).
Any update on where I could get these brackets? Or is the full kit with all of those other unneeded items still my best bet aside from attempting to make my own?
As for the bearing noise, I plan on just purchasing an entirely new nose cone kit from toyota. I am, however, a little confused about the rear bearings on the 2nd gen. Is there a way to tell if these are bad while I still have the supercharger on the workbench? What is the way that most of you go about replacing/maintaining these?
I have a 96 auto and I am wondering what others have done to remedy the "ECU not playing well with the pre 99 4runners" issue?
Also -- since the URD 7th injector kit supports open & closed loop tuning with my 96 auto having the narrowband O2 setup, I am wondering if I should
1) purchase a used URD 7th injector kit
OR
2)
do the AEM F/IC-6 ( http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...6-install-tuning-help-thread.html#post2062909 ) along with a Devils Own ( DevilsOwn Methanol Injection : Water Injection - DevilsOwn Injection ) methanol injection kit.
One more thing! Somebody in a recent post said that driving a 4runner with a supercharger is no different than driving a NA 4runner until WOT. How accurate is this?
Cheers and I can't wait to get this thing installed.
tx_shooter
New member
I really do not notice my SC until around 2,500 RPM and then it really kicks in at 3,000 RPM. I do plan to install the Transgo shift kit for my automatic to see if this helps with trans temps and overall performance from the supercharger.
afg10000
New member
I did not have those brackets with install. We fabbed a piece of scrap in the garage for the dipstick and I think we didn't even bother with the loom. I don't know what you're talking about with the throttle bracket. Make sure you get the TRD throttle body gasket.
Never messed with the bearings.
I've had no ECU problems with my '98. Wouldn't be too concerned.
The URD or the AEM setup is open debate that I'm not getting into.
I drove my wife's '01 the other day (no SC) and it sucked. There's a huge difference if you're used to driving one that is SC'd and upgraded.
Don't install the check valve backwards. If you go with the URD kit, make sure you got your soldering game right. There's a lot of wires that go into the ECU.
MTD
New member
Just replace the rear bearings it's cheap and easy insurance if you are unsure if it has ever been done. the part number is on the main page and the 2nd gen does not require any special tools.
If you have the 7th injector already I would go that route since you do have a 98. If not go AEM because it's cheaper and will be able to support more power in the future.
And there is a huge difference as stated between a NA runner an S/C not sure what that guy who posted that was smoking, watch it will have been me
dunktap
New member
I was referring to the manifold support bracket. Thanks for the reassurance on the 98 ECU. Thats just what I needed to hear.
dunktap
New member
I thought I might as well call this guy out :tsk:
RussToy
New member
I'm with @MTD...you have it already off the vehicle and torn apart, go ahead and replace the rear bearing. If you ask me...that's just cheap insurance.
I'm Unsure what parts you are missing? I was missing the dip-stick relocation piece, which I just fabricated one. Below is what I had with my S/C...and it was everything I needed except the above mentioned dip-stick piece.
Also...if you go the route with the 7th injector...you don't have to solder all billion or so wires coming out of the ECU...URD has a wiring adapter you can buy, which turns that part into plug-n-play. Saves a ton of time and you can remove it...and it would look factory...as if you never did anything. I'm unsure if that would work with AEM setup?? That would be sweet if it did!
Edit: my second picture didn't load...it's the next post...which is on the next page. Thanks
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