The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Yes, the black SC. Where were you when I was doing all my searching?
All the info I found was that they could be pushed through, but now I know. All that is left of the right side bearing is the outer case. the left one is missing the bottom as it broke out on the first hit. Anyway, the case is at the machine shop now. Hopefully they can get the remainder of the bearings out and get the new ones pushed in.
Moral - you can't believe everything you read on the net, even if you find it several times. My SC is probably one of the earlier of the black ones as it was put on in 1997 when the 4runner was brand new.
IMO, it doesn't affect reliability, and for me it takes a lot of the load off the tranny because I'm not down shifting so much on hills. To me it makes the 4runner more balanced with the power less strain altogether.
Yes it's easy to install, can you follow directions? It's stupid simple to install. Just take your time and read the instructions carefully. If you have trouble, just get on here. Many people are willing to give advice.
Many people have installed on 4runners with more miles than you. Honestly if you have the money to do it, imo it's worth it. I'm so glad I did, I even went out and bought another 4runner that had one on it so I could transfer it over.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
What brand thermostat is everyone running...
I am preparing to replace my radiator and install a trans cooler...
Just wondering what everyone is running since I will be changing it during that process...
I am preparing to replace my radiator and install a trans cooler...
Just wondering what everyone is running since I will be changing it during that process...
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
An impact wrench/gun works very different than a breaker bar or a normal ratchet. It literally slams the nut with strong forceful motions so it breaks it loose without turning it hardly at all. I'm not very good at explaining it but it works. I had the exact same issue you have, the impact gun took it off in less than 1 second. After an hour or more of trying to break it with my breaker bar and rubber straps to hold the pulley in place I realized I was getting nowhere.
Aelfwine
New member
I did mine when I got it and they pushed through just fine. The left one falls out through one of the manifold openings. I don't know if you can safely push through the right one without cracking the housing though. There was a crack on mine already right behind the opening so I just JB welded it after I had the new bearings in. The only thing I screwed up was the rotor pack since I attempted to replace those bearings. I ended up buying a new rotor pack... Don't try this at home!
0xfded
New member
I'm using a Stant 14077 170 degree thermostat. Keeps the engine around 179-181 according to the OBD2, which is maybe a little too cool (stayed around 190 with the stock thermostat).
I'm not getting any ping at all with only that, 92 gas, and being around sea level. No other fuel mods, or even cooler plugs yet.
4Reak Show
New member
I'm using the "fancy" TRD one that was way more money than it needs to be. I'd go with the basic Stant one if he says it works fine.
I don't know my exact temp but even with the 2nd gen smaller radiator my gauge runs cooler than it did with the standard thermostat.
....remember there's hundreds of thousands of dollars and man hours in research and development in these rigs. It's called "normal operating temperature" for a reason and colder is not always better. There is a limit to how cool you want it to run....
So again, I'd go with the Stant as suggested
Good luck
anniesball72
Member
Motorad made the TRD thermostats.
The 170degree is part number 281-170. $13.28 on Amazon
infamousRNR
Senior Member
What temperature are we trying to achieve with this thermostat when running a SC?
&
What radiator cap did you switch too?
Same question for you [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION]
anniesball72
Member
I run the 170 and the coolant temperature on my scanner is 180-185.
I have the OEM radiator cap.
I am running the stock 180 on mine and I see temps between 186 and 192. That is in AL where it has been in the high 90s lately, with the AC on all the time. That is per my Ultragauge. That is good for me. I have the 170* stat on my bench but as long as it stays below 200* I am good with it. I just replaced the radiator cap with the OEM one.
I have a blown Chevy truck and it runs hotter with a 170 stat that the 4runner with the 180.
4Reak Show
New member
I think the overall plan is to attempt at alleviating the pinging by cooling everything down a bit. Spark plugs are supposed to be cooler, and the thermostat as well.
I think a comfortable margin is right where everyone is: 180-195. Even going higher (low 200's) isn't gonna hurt anything but once is all high performance you want it a bit on the cooler side since it's all working harder.
I have stock radiator cap.
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Ok so where to get these injectors? I do not have to worry about emissions. I have the blower off and I have done the valve covers so I am ready to put it all back together. I will add the AEM, I think, to tune it.
slimboiphat
New member
I'd like to get my urd 7th injector kit installed. I can probably do it but I don't have space nor the tools to do it right. Are there any shop you guys can recommend near Los Angeles area I can give a call? I already have sc installed so I just need to add URD kit + 2.2 pulley. Thanks in advance.
shootmymime
New member
do it yourself. you need a basic socket set, maybe a basic allen set, a razor blade, screw driver, wire strippers and some soldering iron stuff.
Super simple to install just make sure your wiring is correct.
Ack! Help!
So after having cleaned my SC last week and changing the oil, my 4runner wont run. its super chuggy at idle and dies after revving once or twice on its own and doesn't smooth out until over 1500 rpm. Ive checked my vacuum connections and they seem good. All the electrical I can see is plugged in. No check engine light BTW.
Any thought on where to start trouble shooting?
At 0:25 I start pressing the gas pedal and hold the high idle manually. At 0:57, it revs all by itself.
https://youtu.be/t-Gl5FDuquE
Edit:
This is probably far fetched, but...
While doing my UCAs yesterday, this fell out of nowhere somewhere on the drivers side of the engine bay.
Don't know if it could possibly have anything to do with it
So after having cleaned my SC last week and changing the oil, my 4runner wont run. its super chuggy at idle and dies after revving once or twice on its own and doesn't smooth out until over 1500 rpm. Ive checked my vacuum connections and they seem good. All the electrical I can see is plugged in. No check engine light BTW.
Any thought on where to start trouble shooting?
At 0:25 I start pressing the gas pedal and hold the high idle manually. At 0:57, it revs all by itself.
https://youtu.be/t-Gl5FDuquE
Edit:
This is probably far fetched, but...
While doing my UCAs yesterday, this fell out of nowhere somewhere on the drivers side of the engine bay.
Don't know if it could possibly have anything to do with it
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
The 305's (or 315?) people use are off the 7MGE non-turbo Supras. You'll want to double check them first though before buying anything, but something like these:
Denso Flow Matched Fuel Injector Set for Toyota Lexus L3 0 23250 46050 6 | eBay
WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services has a great site that shows cc's for almost all Toyota injectors.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
That piece looks like the large washer that goes between the supercharger and the tall bracket on the driver's side cylinder head to me. Very easy to lose, I also dropped mine in the engine and it eventually fell out.
My money's on the vacuum hose routing is wrong. Double check all hoses to make sure they are connected and routed correctly, also make sure the MAF is plugged in correctly and the intake tube is on snug.
