The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

I talked to gadget awhile back, and although he initially tried to just sell me additional URD equipment, he did tell me that the 7th DOES do closed loop enrichment (I'm imagining that it's by lying to the main ECU proportionally opposite to the amount that it adds fuel via the 7th injector. Still not 100% on that particular aspect however.) he also told me about never going below the "1.5 PSI" in the settings, but I could have sworn that someone on this thread had said that gadget told him specially to go to 1 PSI (?).

I was thinking, and why wouldn't we want it to start adding fuel any time it's boosting? Why the 1.5 PSI as the minimum? Think about it: at WOT the absolute highest a NA engine can pull is 0 PSI (atmospheric). It's a philysical impossibly for it to create more pressure unless it's super/turbo charged. Therefore, shouldn't we want that magic 11.8:1 AFR at 0 psi and above?

I'm experimenting with this in my settings and I gotta say I like the results. My truck's pick-up is insane the minute I start boosting. I'm floating around low 11's/high 10's any time I'm hearing the supercharger whine and confirmed via the boost gauge hitting 0 psi and above. And I don't even drive it that hard. Talking like 1/2-3/4 throttle and it f*cking flies. And that includes additional timing retard in the low end for audible ping.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on this or the reasoning behind the 1.5 PSI situation? It just doesn't add up to me and the results seem to speak for themselves...richer is safer from what I'm learning so why not?

You can have the 7th inject fuel any time you want, closed loop or open loop. But in closed loop the factory ecm always tries to adjust to 14.7. As far as the 7th proportionally fooling the ecm while in closed loop-no it does not do this. I asked Gadget this in an email not too long ago. If you get the o2 sensor fooler from urd then you can do that, but not with the 7th injector kit alone. As far as the 1.5psi minimum, I think its just a minimum setting put in their by the manufacturer to engage open loop. 1.5psi is very little pressure and so additional fuel isn't really going to do much. At 1.5psi the horsepower difference between 14.7 and 11.8 is going to be maybe 2hp.
 
You can have the 7th inject fuel any time you want, closed loop or open loop. But in closed loop the factory ecm always tries to adjust to 14.7. As far as the 7th proportionally fooling the ecm while in closed loop-no it does not do this. I asked Gadget this in an email not too long ago. If you get the o2 sensor fooler from urd then you can do that, but not with the 7th injector kit alone. As far as the 1.5psi minimum, I think its just a minimum setting put in their by the manufacturer to engage open loop. 1.5psi is very little pressure and so additional fuel isn't really going to do much. At 1.5psi the horsepower difference between 14.7 and 11.8 is going to be maybe 2hp.



Oh ok I think I see my flaw. I had assumed that all 7th injector gigs ALWAYS had the ability for closed loop enrichment like mine does. I knew it was different for AFR equipped trucks for sure, but now it appears that not every kit has this ability.

I just re-read my email from Gadget last year and he said "closed loop boost enrichment is output option B and shouldn't be lower than 1.5 PSI". I had originally thought he meant GENERALLY that's how these systems are, but he must have meant mine SPECIFICALLY. Still confusing he literally said "closed loop boost enrichment" which is what threw me off. He also went on to tell me that a kit that ties into the 02 will have closed loop enrichment ability so that's another telltale.

Boy this system is confusing. No wonder some people are struggling. I guess I just got lucky with my setup.

Either way, if you can get it dialed in right, it certainly does make a noticeable difference. Plus the timing altering aspect really saves the headache of fearful engine damage.
 
saves the headache of fearful engine damage.

Dude don't worry unless you're running more boost with a smaller pulley than stock. You won't have any issues. My truck ran for almost a hundred thousand miles with a supercharger before I tuned it and it is still running strong. They were designed to run without fuel management which is part of the reason why I don't agree with URD on some of their "selling points"

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I really need to unsubscribe from this topic, makes me cry every time as I don't see a super charger in my future for 2-3 years. But I feel reading this is incredibly understanding for when I do install it. Somethings i've seen reading this post since I joined, along with talking to others is that the super charger does cut engine life by stressing it more. Now I physically have no personal data as mine is from others and reading.

When I went to purchase my 2nd 3rd gen 4Runner I looked at a few SC 4Runner's. Both seem worn down and I understood I can easily fix the nose cone and etc, but when I would compare to a similar one of non SC (year/model/package/miles realitvely close(like within 20k) I saw less absue. Now part of me believes this was purely bad luck, but I went with the vehicle I have now versus the Super charged one. I've since put a grand or so into her mechanically, but I didn't have to as It was more ensuring things were done correctly and properly.

But I will say every day I drive and am wanting the power(sand/snow)...I wish I bought the Super Charged one and dropped another 5k for required fixings... =(

Great info though and I'm happy for everyone who has a SC installed (I'm willing to be the fat kid/crippled(I already am that) for you feel sad fo and donate one for my cause) =D
 
Dude don't worry unless you're running more boost with a smaller pulley than stock. You won't have any issues. My truck ran for almost a hundred thousand miles with a supercharger before I tuned it and it is still running strong. They were designed to run without fuel management which is part of the reason why I don't agree with URD on some of their "selling points"

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Id agree with that. The simplest way of ridding the pinging is to not drive it hard in the areas where it pings.
I also had my SC installed for like 2yrs without the 7th and it was fine.
Fueling/timing mods are not a necessity, just a nice addition.
Shop around and make whatever you get work for you. That's the fun of all this nonsense and $$$
 
Yep that's why you can do that. Anyone with a newer Tacoma or 99+ 4runner can't do that and should go with the AEM system for sure

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Yup. Exactly. My 2000 4Runner pulls any fuel I add inside of closed loop. I can only get away with boost enrichment feature.


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Oh ok I think I see my flaw. I had assumed that all 7th injector gigs ALWAYS had the ability for closed loop enrichment like mine does. I knew it was different for AFR equipped trucks for sure, but now it appears that not every kit has this ability.

I just re-read my email from Gadget last year and he said "closed loop boost enrichment is output option B and shouldn't be lower than 1.5 PSI". I had originally thought he meant GENERALLY that's how these systems are, but he must have meant mine SPECIFICALLY. Still confusing he literally said "closed loop boost enrichment" which is what threw me off. He also went on to tell me that a kit that ties into the 02 will have closed loop enrichment ability so that's another telltale.

Boy this system is confusing. No wonder some people are struggling. I guess I just got lucky with my setup.

Either way, if you can get it dialed in right, it certainly does make a noticeable difference. Plus the timing altering aspect really saves the headache of fearful engine damage.
"Closed loop boost enrichment?" I did not know about this. Maybe I have this too. How do you adjust it exactly? I found some info here I never knew about...
https://splitsec.com/wp-content/uploads/technotes/TN1_Achieving_Fuel_Enrichment_in_Closed_Loop.pdf
 
"Closed loop boost enrichment?" I did not know about this. Maybe I have this too. How do you adjust it exactly? I found some info here I never knew about...

https://splitsec.com/wp-content/uploads/technotes/TN1_Achieving_Fuel_Enrichment_in_Closed_Loop.pdf


I'm loving how confusing this is continuing to be:

Like he told me, it's the "output option B" set to "overpressure" and then set to a value of 1.5 PSI or wherever you want it to start lying to the ECU. BUT it's only if your unit is tapped into the front 02 OR you have the additional AFR calibrator. This is what I was talking about when I said my unit lies proportionally opposite when it enrichens in closed loop so the main ECU does NOT pull the extra fuel via the stock 6 injectors.

Read this supplement:

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInstructions/1063078 u-tune-aic.pdf

I think page 16 looks like this

5800674c3dfe8db422c510c8b2e988a6.png


Let us know what you think? I'm still trying to figure out the intricacies of this whole system and based on how she runs I'm confident it's working right.
 
Dude don't worry unless you're running more boost with a smaller pulley than stock. You won't have any issues. My truck ran for almost a hundred thousand miles with a supercharger before I tuned it and it is still running strong. They were designed to run without fuel management which is part of the reason why I don't agree with URD on some of their "selling points"

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THANK YOU.

I get upset whenever a new member on this site with a supercharger posts something like "Oh no I heard my S/C engine is going to blow up if i dont buy a $800 7th injector because of the pings i heard pings destroy your engine in 10 seconds"

Mine also has over 100,000 miles with no fuel mods. I just want the fuel mods to go faster. Also, ever since keeping the ECT Power button on full-time I have 0 ping now, 1998 though (ECU plays best with the 98's).
 
I just installed the URD O2 calibrator on my 2000. I am running it along with AEM meth injection and URD 2.1 pulley.

The calibrator comes preprogrammed to start at 15.7 kPa.

I wanted to richen the feul mixture before boost, since I don't have the ability with the meth kit. I remapped the calibrator to start altering the signal at 13.7 kPa and it has worked very well so far.

Now, you are not able to tune for a specific AFR, like you can with the AFR calibrator. An O2 sensor is more like switch, that changes constantly to adjust the fuel ratio. It is much simpler than an AFR sensor. In other words, once the signal is altered it will run rich or lean depending on the way you have it set up. But I have the ability to adjust the final AFR with my meth kit once under boost.

It had also solved my lean problem I was having after a long, hard pull with meth. Since the ecu doesn't actually see the meth spraying once the calibrator adjusts the signal to the ECU.

I am still playing with it, but must say I'm happy so far.

I forgot to add all of this is done while still in closed loop.
 
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Has anyone tried re-coating the rotors themselves? My coating is starting to peel, but I am not ready to drop $200 to have it re-done if there are diy options. Otherwise Ill just leave it to peel on its own and worry about it later.
 
Has anyone tried re-coating the rotors themselves? My coating is starting to peel, but I am not ready to drop $200 to have it re-done if there are diy options. Otherwise Ill just leave it to peel on its own and worry about it later.

When i opened mine up i saw it was doing the same thing and that fuel or meth woukd continue to remove it. I stripped it off. Only downside is potentially less boost bit better then that stuff being sucked into the engine.
 
Alright guys, i need help on three potential issues. I installed my supercharger and 7th last August. We have since had a baby and this rig is our only DD for the baby right now. Thinking that a supercharger might have not been the best move on this rig for my current situation. Anyway, since it is the only way to get my baby around i really want to make sure the engine does not grenade on me and tbat the 4R runs in top condition. I know some guys say some pinging is fine and just drive out of its range but this is not good enough for me as my GF drives the rig also and im sure she will drive within those ranges.

My rig. 225k miles. 1998 5speed with locker. Trd superchager 2.2 pulley. 7th injector kit. Everything installed except for larger fuel pump.

Onto the potential issues. First the pinging. I get low range rpm pinging while in boost. Say im going 30mpg in 4th and floor it..PING! 60mph on freeway in 5th and floor it PING!. Here are my maps. As you can see i have added a ton of retard and boost in the lower rpm ranges but nothing has really changed.I will admit im still pretty much a beginner at tuning.




Second issue. Engine Temps..
What is the 'no go' range to run these things? I see alot of people saying their 170 thermostat keeps them at 180-185 as it does for me also while at idle. What about at speed? Before my 170 thermostat i would hit 200-220 at 75-80mph in the summer heat with the ac at 2nd or 3rd level. Some conditions but with 170 i can still get it up to 210 degress, maybe 215. I have some big ass lightforces up front blocking some of the grill. I have removed them temporary to see if my temps change but so far seem the same. Btw i have just had my timming belt/pump replace with toyota parts and forever toyota coolant put in.

Third concern : Boost...not a major one but still a concern. I have a trd boost gauge. Before 2.2 pully with uth woukd read 6-7psi. Now with the 2.2 it reads 8-9. Maybe even 10 sometimes. Everything seems fine right? While i was doing my pulls and recording using the r4 software i noticed i cant get above 5.5 or 6 psi? Whats the deal? I know boost gauges can lie but i have seen other maps at sea level (1200 feet lower then i am) and they are hitting 8-9psi. Just a note: when i tore into my charger i found propellers were flaking off that coating. After many reads though forums i decided to remove the coating. I know that this might lead to boost loss but did not expect this much.

Thanks foe the read and hope someone can help me out with these issues. Thanks . Mason
 
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Alright guys, i need help on three potential issues. I installed my supercharger and 7th last August. We have since had a baby and this rig is our only DD for the baby right now. Thinking that a supercharger might have not been the best move on this rig for my current situation. Anyway, since it is the only way to get my baby around i really want to make sure the engine does not grenade on me and tbat the 4R runs in top condition. I know some guys say some pinging is fine and just drive out of its range but this is not good enough for me as my GF drives the rig also and im sure she will drive within those ranges.

My rig. 225k miles. 1998 5speed with locker. Trd superchager 2.2 pulley. 7th injector kit. Everything installed except for larger fuel pump.

Onto the potential issues. First the pinging. I get low range rpm pinging while in boost. Say im going 30mpg in 4th and floor it..PING! 60mph on freeway in 5th and floor it PING!. Here are my maps. As you can see i have added a ton of retard and boost in the lower rpm ranges but nothing has really changed.I will admit im still pretty much a beginner at tuning.




Second issue. Engine Temps..
What is the 'no go' range to run these things? I see alot of people saying their 170 thermostat keeps them at 180-185 as it does for me also while at idle. What about at speed? Before my 170 thermostat i would hit 200-220 at 75-80mph in the summer heat with the ac at 2nd or 3rd level. Some conditions but with 170 i can still get it up to 210 degress, maybe 215. I have some big ass lightforces up front blocking some of the grill. I have removed them temporary to see if my temps change but so far seem the same. Btw i have just had my timming belt/pump replace with toyota parts and forever toyota coolant put in.

Third concern : Boost...not a major one but still a concern. I have a trd boost gauge. Before 2.2 pully with uth woukd read 6-7psi. Now with the 2.2 it reads 8-9. Maybe even 10 sometimes. Everything seems fine right? While i was doing my pulls and recording using the r4 software i noticed i cant get above 5.5 or 6 psi? Whats the deal? I know boost gauges can lie but i have seen other maps at sea level (1200 feet lower then i am) and they are hitting 8-9psi. Just a note: when i tore into my charger i found propellers were flaking off that coating. After many reads though forums i decided to remove the coating. I know that this might lead to boost loss but did not expect this much.

Thanks foe the read and hope someone can help me out with these issues. Thanks . Mason
First off do you have an aft gauge? Second, have you tried swapping the pulley to the stock pulley. It is reliable on stock boost without any fuel mods and it's better yet with fuel mods. So my suggestion is don't sell the charger and swap to stock pulley

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Yes, i have an afr guage and i even have the ability to record. In fact here is a recording on the stock map with the 2.2 pulley. I bought my 7th used along with the charger so i installed at the same time. Be it the stock pulley or the 2.2 they both ping in the low range boost.

Here im doing a pull towards the freeway. Then a fast turn ( sound are the grocerys flying to one side) and one long pull up to 80mph. Then i played around in 4th or 5th to see if i could get her to ping which i did.

http://youtu.be/savdHHciJt0


No worries on uninstalling it. It would be a ***** to uninstall that 7th plus the charger does make it into a very fun mall crawler. Im serious on that mail crawler part! I have not seen dirt in 8 months!
 
I am having the same problem showing my 7th is not displaying the same high boost my gauge does. With the 2.2 I'm only seeing 4.5/-5 on the R4


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so what year do you have?



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Its a 1998 5speed. I think i have showed you that video before? You were also have higher temps at 80 mph. Did you ever solve that? Back to the boost guage vs r4 maps. I know the guage lies but i just thought my actual boost would be higher on the map. paddlenbike has the stock pulley and runs 7psi on the map per his map thread. I know he is at sea level but i was imaginging with the 2.2 i would be seeing atleast 7 since im only 1000 feet higher.
 
Its a 1998 5speed. I think i have showed you that video before? You were also have higher temps at 80 mph. Did you ever solve that? Back to the boost guage vs r4 maps. I know the guage lies but i just thought my actual boost would be higher on the map. paddlenbike has the stock pulley and runs 7psi on the map per his map thread. I know he is at sea level but i was imaginging with the 2.2 i would be seeing atleast 7 since im only 1000 feet higher.


my higher temps were a cause to my injector not working, (still doesnt drop my AFR like yours does) even with more fuel added im only seeing 12.4.

so i have the static tensioner, tightened it a bit more and i got some more boost, the belt must have been slipping what tensioner do you have? Man i hate this SC problem
yeah you should have a bunch more boost, i wonder if the coating causes thatproblem im pretty sure i dont have a boost leak. Dumb.
 
my higher temps were a cause to my injector not working, (still doesnt drop my AFR like yours does) even with more fuel added im only seeing 12.4.

so i have the static tensioner, tightened it a bit more and i got some more boost, the belt must have been slipping what tensioner do you have? Man i hate this SC problem
yeah you should have a bunch more boost, i wonder if the coating causes thatproblem im pretty sure i dont have a boost leak. Dumb.

Im running the dynamic. So what temps do you see now if you are steady at 75mph plus now?
 

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