The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Dementedfish
New member
Does anyone have a part # for the three long bolts on the 1st gen (tan) supercharger?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Mine is the same year, I've never seen temps over 192 will full A/C in 100+ heat. But my radiator has been replaced once already and I have a transmission cooler, keeping the hot tranny fluid away from the radiator. I also run the cooler thermostat.
By the way, keep the ECT Power button on full time. Will greatly reduce the low end ping since it won't try and chug away sub 2k RPM's.
White Stripe
New member
I have gotten up to 210 or so on big hills. Not really a worry until you get to like 230. Are you running synthetic? Also, its a good idea with forced induction to run thicker oil. Something like 10w40 or or even 20w50. Make sure to set you overpressure to like 1psi. Also, I would bump up fuel considerably at lower rpm where you are getting pinging. Try doubling or tripiling your fuel. Yes it may run richer but it will help suppress pinging. Also think about getting a simple water meth kit with a small nozzle. A gallon with say a number 3 nozzle will likely last several tanks of fuel. 20% meth mix would be good enough.
Alright guys, i need help on three potential issues. I installed my supercharger and 7th last August. We have since had a baby and this rig is our only DD for the baby right now. Thinking that a supercharger might have not been the best move on this rig for my current situation. Anyway, since it is the only way to get my baby around i really want to make sure the engine does not grenade on me and tbat the 4R runs in top condition. I know some guys say some pinging is fine and just drive out of its range but this is not good enough for me as my GF drives the rig also and im sure she will drive within those ranges.
My rig. 225k miles. 1998 5speed with locker. Trd superchager 2.2 pulley. 7th injector kit. Everything installed except for larger fuel pump.
Onto the potential issues. First the pinging. I get low range rpm pinging while in boost. Say im going 30mpg in 4th and floor it..PING! 60mph on freeway in 5th and floor it PING!. Here are my maps. As you can see i have added a ton of retard and boost in the lower rpm ranges but nothing has really changed.I will admit im still pretty much a beginner at tuning.
Second issue. Engine Temps..
What is the 'no go' range to run these things? I see alot of people saying their 170 thermostat keeps them at 180-185 as it does for me also while at idle. What about at speed? Before my 170 thermostat i would hit 200-220 at 75-80mph in the summer heat with the ac at 2nd or 3rd level. Some conditions but with 170 i can still get it up to 210 degress, maybe 215. I have some big ass lightforces up front blocking some of the grill. I have removed them temporary to see if my temps change but so far seem the same. Btw i have just had my timming belt/pump replace with toyota parts and forever toyota coolant put in.
Third concern : Boost...not a major one but still a concern. I have a trd boost gauge. Before 2.2 pully with uth woukd read 6-7psi. Now with the 2.2 it reads 8-9. Maybe even 10 sometimes. Everything seems fine right? While i was doing my pulls and recording using the r4 software i noticed i cant get above 5.5 or 6 psi? Whats the deal? I know boost gauges can lie but i have seen other maps at sea level (1200 feet lower then i am) and they are hitting 8-9psi. Just a note: when i tore into my charger i found propellers were flaking off that coating. After many reads though forums i decided to remove the coating. I know that this might lead to boost loss but did not expect this much.
Thanks foe the read and hope someone can help me out with these issues. Thanks . Mason
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Or just run Amsoil's best oil, it's make for engines with forced induction. Lowest bearing wear test of any oil I've seen on the market and lasts up to 10k miles. I think I might send an oil sample off to Blackstone soon before I change it next YEAR lol!
Jahmiroquai
Member
When to rebuild 1st gen S/C?
I bought a ’99 Limited a few months ago. It has about 150K on the clock. It came with a 1st gen supercharger. I have no idea what mileage it was installed at. Overall the truck appears to have been maintained well.
Currently I have the S/C off as I am replacing a leaky fuel injector that was causing a misfire issue. Since removal was enough of a pain, if the S/C needs to be rebuilt, I’d like to go ahead and do it now.
So my question is: How do you know if the S/C is due for a rebuild? It seems to run fine, although I’ll hear a little clacking noise every so often. Just concerned about the mileage. Thanks!
I bought a ’99 Limited a few months ago. It has about 150K on the clock. It came with a 1st gen supercharger. I have no idea what mileage it was installed at. Overall the truck appears to have been maintained well.
Currently I have the S/C off as I am replacing a leaky fuel injector that was causing a misfire issue. Since removal was enough of a pain, if the S/C needs to be rebuilt, I’d like to go ahead and do it now.
So my question is: How do you know if the S/C is due for a rebuild? It seems to run fine, although I’ll hear a little clacking noise every so often. Just concerned about the mileage. Thanks!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
The two most common parts to wear out is the coupler and the bearings. If the coupler is bad, you feel play in the pulley if you move it back and forth. As in the pulley spins before the rotors turn.
When the bearings go bad it'll rattle real loud. Note that at idle they are sort of loud anyway. I would look up some youtube videos to compare sounds and see if yours is acceptable or not. It's hard to say unless you hear one that's new/rebuilt. I assumed mine needed a rebuild and I was right, the bearings were no good. But then the new one leaked oil... all is well now though. You do have a 1st Gen which is considerably more difficult to rebuild though and more expensive.
White Stripe
New member
So I have been emailing split second about their system. They have been super helpful in clearing things up. I have found that what they tell me compared to what Gadget has told me is pretty conflicting. Gadget told me I can't go below 1.5psi overpressure. Split second said you can. So what I did is set my overpressure to 5inches of vacuum by simply entering the number -5. Negative symbol for vacuum. It works awesome. The low rpm high load ping is gone. Gadget also said that the 7th does not have the capability to fool the ecm by manipulating the o2 sensor signal. This is also not true according to split second. When you adjust the overpressure, the split second ecm manipulates the o2 sensor signal in closed loop. When I got my 7th injector kit, Gadget had the overpressure set to 7psi boost. So basically if its set like that, your truck will run at 14.7 until 7psi which is why you get the pinging at heavy load low rpm around 4psi of boost because even if you have the 7th injector squirting fuel, the factory ecm is pulling fuel from the 6 injectors since its in closed loop and their is no o2 sensor manipulation. By setting overpressure to a much lower setting, you command o2 sensor manipulation earlier and thus get a richer air fuel ratio in that 3 to 4psi pinging range.
shootmymime
New member
Who has a dynamic tensioner and or a bracket laying around they would be willing to sell or give me dimensions to make one?
I need this desperately
I need this desperately
4Reak Show
New member
I had always THOUGHT this was the way it worked, and have been running mine similarly for awhile now with wonderful results. (Remember, I started this tangent of the "1.5 PSI threshold" awhile back. Mine is set to 0 I believe). It's good to finally have some sort of confirmation.
Only advice is to be careful of roasting a catalytic converter by beign overly rich too frequently. Every once in awhile likely won't hurt, but it's all designed for 14.7:1 (obviously) so you can imagine how a constant 11.8:1 would be detrimental over time.
Good research
4Reak Show
New member
OR, if you want to save $103 on the purchase, try this one - PTR29-60032 | Toyota OEM Parts |*TRD SC 34 DYNA TENSI | Genuine Toyota
This is where I purchased mine a month ago.
This is where I purchased mine a month ago.
shootmymime
New member
I am planing on making a couple of these for you guys. With bolts. Like the torra guy did years ago. Just to help some people out on a cheep route.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RussToy
New member
So can this be done with just the URD 7th injector kit? Or do you have to also have to order a Split Second ECM or other part?? I have a 7th injector...just haven't installed it yet. So, I'm unsure how it works or if you're able to program anything on it. I'm tired of buying crap that doesn't work as it should...hence the reason I haven't installed the 7th injector kit yet!
Thanks for the great info...this has been a long time discussion!! Heck, as long as I've had my SC anyway. It's great to finally get some useable info that will work.
-Russel
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Haha, yeah this thread spans something like 3 years! Sad to say that I've read all of it, though it was only half as long when I got my current Supercharged 4Runner.
If you really can tune it like SS says for all years, that will help a lot of people.
shootmymime
New member
[MENTION=129227]White Stripe[/MENTION] I've got a question for you. What year is yours? My 2000 is the worst for tuning. The computer keeps pulling my fuel.
My overage is set to 2.
So when we set this overage. What is actually spraying? The 7th or is it tricking the ecu to bump fuel and spray a little more from each injector?
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My overage is set to 2.
So when we set this overage. What is actually spraying? The 7th or is it tricking the ecu to bump fuel and spray a little more from each injector?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
White Stripe
New member
The URD 7th injector kit utilizes a split second piggy back ecm. URD or Gadget as he is known installs a fuel map into the piggy back. But you can hook up a laptop to the split second and make your own fuel and timing maps.
White Stripe
New member
Yes for sure, when I found this out, I set my overpressure to -5 which equals 5 inches of vacuum. It then ran pretty rich in vacuum-I was in the 9's afr, so I set it to -3 and then reduced the 7th injector flow in vacuum, its still too rich and I need to back it off.
White Stripe
New member
Mine is a 99, so it uses a narrow band o2. Their is supposed to be a difference between the split second units that use wideband. What do you mean overage? You mean in your fuel map? Or do you mean your overpressure in the output b in the options menu? If you set the overpressure to 2, it basically sends a false signal into the o2 sensor signal wire so that more fuel can be injected with the 7th injector and the ecm won't know its actually richer than 14.7. By doing this though, I think the 6 injectors as a result dump more fuel too. At what point is your ecm bringing the fuel to 14.7? Is their a point you reach in boost where it seems to not bring it to 14.7? In the options menu, click on output settings. In output b mode select over rpm and pressure. Then below you will see the over pressure and over rpm boxes. Set the overpressure to -3. Set the rpm to 1700. If its really rich this way, try going into the fuel map menu b and reduce the 7th injector flow for those areas where its too rich. If its still too rich, try setting the overpressure to -2 or -1. You can also adjust the rpm where overpressure begins to fool the ecm.
White Stripe
New member
The dynamic tensioner is just a general motors tensioner, their on threads on this with info on the gm part number. You can get the gm tensioner and pulley for like 50 bucks. Then you just need a bolt to bolt it into your block. The only catch is if you order the gm number, is that the tensioner doesn't come with a pulley, you have to order it seperately. Very inexpensive this way.
