The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

Totally agree. There are a lot of people on here with high miles and zero issues. Here's another way to look at it: if your numbers ARE an issue, then you'd need at least a top-end rebuild anyway. (Which not many would think you would) and therefore why not supercharge it? Why worry about popping an engine that you worry is already "on the way out" based on numbers. But I'd be stunned if you had any issues. These engines are difficult to kill.
 
Just finished doing compression check on my truck. My new (used) TRD Supercharger is sitting on the living room floor.

Truck: 2000 T4R SR5 5-speed manual, 3.4L, 188,616 miles. Runs strong, doesn't burn oil.

Compression:

#6 165 psi
#4 151 psi
#2 150 psi
#5 172 psi
#3 160 psi
#1 172 psi

#4 & #2 are down close to the "minimum" called out in my Haynes manual.

Is this an engine I can install a Supercharger on? :pray:

I would not be scared to SC this motor. But again anything can happen. And like you said compression numbers are based off sea level and you lose about 3% compression per 1000ft so its not bad at all.
 
Mine was dealer installed in 1997 with 8 miles on the truck, I'm at 240K now.

Thanks all for the responses.

Yes, I figured with it being TRD stamped it's pretty solid. Plus, it's not like most of us are running THAT much boost with it.

So I guess mine's a pup with only 30k SC'd miles.

I do like the power for sure. I mean it's not sportscar fast off the line but going up the hills I've got the power there...as much as I want when I want it. To me it's like having a V8 sort of. It BLOWS AWAY my former jeep with the 4.0. I had 4.88's but with 35's it was still just a dog.
 
Not sure if this was ever discussed. After recent URD 7th injector kit was installed with my super charger, I have trouble starting the car at a first crank. It'll usually take 2 or 3 times before it starts. Crankshaft sensor was recently replaced due to check engine light immediately after the install. Could by started be going out? Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Not sure if this was ever discussed. After recent URD 7th injector kit was installed with my super charger, I have trouble starting the car at a first crank. It'll usually take 2 or 3 times before it starts. Crankshaft sensor was recently replaced due to check engine light immediately after the install. Could by started be going out? Any thoughts?



Thanks!



When you say 2-3 time. Is that like crank crank crank crank vroom? Or having to turn the key off then on, Off then on until it starts?

On the injector you have a 12v wire. Neg wire.
Cam and or crank signal wires corresponding to your application. So yes your truck may have noticed a different value of signal (due to soldering connections). But a clearing of code should have fixed it / or resetting the ecu by pulling the fuse.

My truck starts right up no different each time I've played with the wires on my 7th injector.


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When you say 2-3 time. Is that like crank crank crank crank vroom? Or having to turn the key off then on, Off then on until it starts?

On the injector you have a 12v wire. Neg wire.
Cam and or crank signal wires corresponding to your application. So yes your truck may have noticed a different value of signal (due to soldering connections). But a clearing of code should have fixed it / or resetting the ecu by pulling the fuse.

My truck starts right up no different each time I've played with the wires on my 7th injector.


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i usually reset and turn again.

crank crank then nasty clunk. crank crank. crank crank vrooooooom.

check out the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIACzjVnVTc
 
i usually reset and turn again.

crank crank then nasty clunk. crank crank. crank crank vrooooooom.

check out the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIACzjVnVTc

Should your lights be dimming that much while cranking? I don't remember mine flickering that much. Have you checked your battery for voltage running and when the engine is off? Should be over 13.7 at idle and over 12.6 or so with the engine off.

I'd start there. It's not your starter contacts though if that's what you are wondering, if it were you'd get one "click" and then nothing.
 
Should your lights be dimming that much while cranking? I don't remember mine flickering that much. Have you checked your battery for voltage running and when the engine is off? Should be over 13.7 at idle and over 12.6 or so with the engine off.

I'd start there. It's not your starter contacts though if that's what you are wondering, if it were you'd get one "click" and then nothing.

Thanks. I didn't even realize my flickering may not be right. I never assumed it'd be my battery since I had it replaced with Sears Diehard Gold little over a year ago.
 
Thanks. I didn't even realize my flickering may not be right. I never assumed it'd be my battery since I had it replaced with Sears Diehard Gold little over a year ago.

If you replaced it recently, maybe it is good? Most auto part stores will check your battery for free if you don't have a multi-meter. It is also possible that somehow its getting too much fuel.


Soo... my 4Runner didn't pass smog today. California folks who have gone beyond just a stock supercharger, have any tips? My deckplate mod and catch can didn't pass, so they are coming off and stock parts are going on. Will probably just switch them again once the check is done...
 
Tips? ...know a guy that knows a guy... Or yeah take off stuff they failed. That's pretty lame man, I feel your pain. My conversion didn't pass smog referee at first because my exhaust is on the other side
 
Yeah, that sort of changes my plans on what I wanted to do. Now I either have to have everything removable or stock backups. The sad thing is I passed smog but it's the "visual inspection" that I'm failing :(
 
Supercharger was ok, but other things I've done that I didn't think would affect it such as the deck plate mod on the airbox doesn't pass apparently. I'm starting to doubt that a smaller pulley would pass either.

Wow that sucks. I was afraid of that too when I had mine installed. I have deck plate mod + urd 7th injector mod and passed w/ no problem this time around. G'luck.
 
Not passing

Supercharger was ok, but other things I've done that I didn't think would affect it such as the deck plate mod on the airbox doesn't pass apparently. I'm starting to doubt that a smaller pulley would pass either.

When you failed what size pulley did you have on it? I have the bright red 2.2 pulley and don't have the stock one.

I'm worried about passing the visual also because I have to go before the referee because I have a manual transmission now.
 
Dude I wouldn't referee yours man...you have the 7th & URD pulley. He's gonna make you take that off without question I'd wager. Why couldn't you just take it to a run-of-the-mill smog shop first and see if it goes under their nose? Once the referee gets ahold of you, you're in the system man. I had a helluva time getting him to let me pass. And for a stupid sticker and the exhaust routing, despite my literally ZERO emissions.
 
When you failed what size pulley did you have on it? I have the bright red 2.2 pulley and don't have the stock one.

I'm worried about passing the visual also because I have to go before the referee because I have a manual transmission now.

Stock pulley. It's not the charger that failed, specifically the deck plate mod and the catch can I have since it modifies the PCV, which I didn't know was off limits.

Dude I wouldn't referee yours man...you have the 7th & URD pulley. He's gonna make you take that off without question I'd wager. Why couldn't you just take it to a run-of-the-mill smog shop first and see if it goes under their nose? Once the referee gets ahold of you, you're in the system man. I had a helluva time getting him to let me pass. And for a stupid sticker and the exhaust routing, despite my literally ZERO emissions.

I agree. Anyone who knows their stuff (this last smog guy was very knowledgeble, he taught me some things I didn't know about the emissions!) will notice the fuel lines and extra injector and wiring and flag it. That and the fact that it's an undersized pulley and shows the size on the stock pulley. I highly doubt it will pass and will make you remove it all.

At this point I've had to totally change how I am going about building up the 4Runner. I think any controller like the AEM or even the Split Second is out the window for me, everything has to be removable to go back so stock for the visual inspections. Unless I wire up my own removable harness or something like that. Mind you I passed smog ok, it's the visual part that failed. One isn't in boost running extra fuel and stuff going 15 or 25 MPG on the sniffer.
 

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