The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Foxbody404]

Checking in again

So I posted a little bit ago some info on my experience with my trd grey supercharger. My 96 limited was running great without fuel mods. Never a ping or knock, granted I live in Denver. I am happy to report I added a URD 7th injector kit, URD 2.2 pulley, and URD 02 calibrator. Truck is running so good. The morning after my 02 calibrator install, I went to dart my truck and threw a check engine light( 2nd time it's ever thrown one the whole time I have owned the truck). It was a misfire on cylinder 2 and 4. P0300,P0302,P0304. I cleared them and checked under the hood and found nothing out of the norm. My buddy said sometimes when adding a piggyback to the ecu it can resist a little at the beginning. So I chalked it up as that and have been running great since. That was over two weeks ago.

 

[Foxbody404]

Oh yea, 213,000 miles

 

[LiquidFlame]

Hey guys, been a couple months since I've posted in this thread, but im in need of quick input so I thought I'd ask.
My 2nd gen SC started making a rattling/vibrating noise a few weeks ago, and it sounds like it's coming from the rotors. As soon as I hear it start to make boost, the rattle goes away, then as soon as I let off, it rattles again.
I got it to the dealer today and they told me the bearings needed to be replaced. I took it home and pulled it apart, but all the bearings feel fine to me, no slop or anything. I even rebuilt it with parts from rolling performance about 6 months ago. Including new coupler, both snout ball bearings, and rotor bearings.
So I'm trying to locate the source of this bad rattling, any ideas? I'm able to pull my rotors apart by about 1/8", is that normal? Even if so, I feel like the rotor bearings would keep them in place. The housing seems a little scored, but the grey rotor coating is definitely there.
Could the pulley be the cause?
Any input would be great, I've been dealing with this stupid SC for months now and I cant figure it out...
Cody

 

[poopypants]

Hey guys, been a couple months since I've posted in this thread, but im in need of quick input so I thought I'd ask.
My 2nd gen SC started making a rattling/vibrating noise a few weeks ago, and it sounds like it's coming from the rotors. As soon as I hear it start to make boost, the rattle goes away, then as soon as I let off, it rattles again.
I got it to the dealer today and they told me the bearings needed to be replaced. I took it home and pulled it apart, but all the bearings feel fine to me, no slop or anything. I even rebuilt it with parts from rolling performance about 6 months ago. Including new coupler, both snout ball bearings, and rotor bearings.
So I'm trying to locate the source of this bad rattling, any ideas? I'm able to pull my rotors apart by about 1/8", is that normal? Even if so, I feel like the rotor bearings would keep them in place. The housing seems a little scored, but the grey rotor coating is definitely there.
Could the pulley be the cause?
Any input would be great, I've been dealing with this stupid SC for months now and I cant figure it out...
Cody

Sounds like a bad coupler... Look up all the vids on YouTube about bad couplers. The exact same symptoms you describe.

Bearings would be able to be felt and heard when spun by hand.

 

[LiquidFlame]

Sounds like a bad coupler... Look up all the vids on YouTube about bad couplers. The exact same symptoms you describe.

Bearings would be able to be felt and heard when spun by hand.

Thanks for the quick response.
Coupler is what I was partially thinking too. But I'm holding it in my hand as we speak, and it's not oblong or anything. It fits snugly on the shaft pins and on the rotor pins. It's only 6 months old too.

I'm looking at the pulley, and the key opens up to one side if you were to travel through the ID about 1/4". Is that normal? It doesn't look to be broken or cracked, but im maybe leaning towards that rattling on the shaft. And as soon as I put it under boost, it pins it to one side.
Just thinking out loud

Edit: under closer light and inspection, it definitely looks broken on the inside because it's uneven. So maybe it wobbles and makes the rotors spin off kilter. Gonna order a 2.2" pulley from URD and hope it can get here by Thursday before Im supposed to drive back to Cali. Unless anyone near Tempe/Phoenix has a spare pulley lying around?

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Thanks for the quick response.
Coupler is what I was partially thinking too. But I'm holding it in my hand as we speak, and it's not oblong or anything. It fits snugly on the shaft pins and on the rotor pins. It's only 6 months old too.

I'm looking at the pulley, and the key opens up to one side if you were to travel through the ID about 1/4". Is that normal? It doesn't look to be broken or cracked, but im maybe leaning towards that rattling on the shaft. And as soon as I put it under boost, it pins it to one side.
Just thinking out loud

Edit: under closer light and inspection, it definitely looks broken on the inside because it's uneven. So maybe it wobbles and makes the rotors spin off kilter. Gonna order a 2.2" pulley from URD and hope it can get here by Thursday before Im supposed to drive back to Cali. Unless anyone near Tempe/Phoenix has a spare pulley lying around?

This has happened to me twice. What you need is a new pulley and a new woodruff key. Ace hardware has them believe it or not. When the key loosens it eggs out the pulley slot (you almost can't see it). It can make a really loud noise. When you step on the gas the rpms tighten things up and the rattling goes away. When you reinstall the pulley make sure their is no play at all. The nut has to be snug against the pulley. Hope this helps.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the quick response.
Coupler is what I was partially thinking too. But I'm holding it in my hand as we speak, and it's not oblong or anything. It fits snugly on the shaft pins and on the rotor pins. It's only 6 months old too.

I'm looking at the pulley, and the key opens up to one side if you were to travel through the ID about 1/4". Is that normal? It doesn't look to be broken or cracked, but im maybe leaning towards that rattling on the shaft. And as soon as I put it under boost, it pins it to one side.
Just thinking out loud

Edit: under closer light and inspection, it definitely looks broken on the inside because it's uneven. So maybe it wobbles and makes the rotors spin off kilter. Gonna order a 2.2" pulley from URD and hope it can get here by Thursday before Im supposed to drive back to Cali. Unless anyone near Tempe/Phoenix has a spare pulley lying around?

Careful with switching to a smaller pulley. Going from 2.38" to 2.2" will add more boost pressure, which in turn needs more fuel. The stock system cannot handle an increase of boost with no extra fuel.

 

[gamefreakgc]

BTW, I don't think I ever shared this.

I have the 2.1" pulley but it's not from URD. It's a black pulley sourced by a local performance shop, at prices cheaper than URD. I got it on sale on their Ebay store for $89. They have 2.2" and 2.1" black or red pulleys. Fits perfectly and is strong, I've been running it a year without a single issue and the belt is in great shape.

1320 Performance supercharger pulley TRD 3.4L Toyota 5VZ-FE 5VZ

 

[poopypants]

BTW, I don't think I ever shared this.

I have the 2.1" pulley but it's not from URD. It's a black pulley sourced by a local performance shop, at prices cheaper than URD. I got it on sale on their Ebay store for $89. They have 2.2" and 2.1" black or red pulleys. Fits perfectly and is strong, I've been running it a year without a single issue and the belt is in great shape.

1320 Performance supercharger pulley TRD 3.4L Toyota 5VZ-FE 5VZ

I have their 2.2 pulley in red

 

[LiquidFlame]

Careful with switching to a smaller pulley. Going from 2.38" to 2.2" will add more boost pressure, which in turn needs more fuel. The stock system cannot handle an increase of boost with no extra fuel.

Didn't even think about that, I appreciate you telling me! Unfortunately I'll just have to keep out of boost for the next week or so until I can maybe source a stock pulley, cause I don't have money for a 7th injector setup... And I have to drive to California on Thursday night so I need my car.
My urd pulley is apparently on the way, so fingers crossed it fixes my issue. I knew I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer, I wasted $138 for them to tell me it's bearings without even taking anything apart.

 

[LiquidFlame]

This has happened to me twice. What you need is a new pulley and a new woodruff key. Ace hardware has them believe it or not. When the key loosens it eggs out the pulley slot (you almost can't see it). It can make a really loud noise. When you step on the gas the rpms tighten things up and the rattling goes away. When you reinstall the pulley make sure their is no play at all. The nut has to be snug against the pulley. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the advice! Stopped by Ace today and picked up a shiny new key. Pulley is on the way from Maryland.
I'll see if I can post a good picture of my pulley. It's not just egged out, it's missing large pieces of metal :dammit:

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Gets super loud ha! I thought I had toasted the super charger. Simple fix, just have to make sure everything is super snug.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Didn't even think about that, I appreciate you telling me! Unfortunately I'll just have to keep out of boost for the next week or so until I can maybe source a stock pulley, cause I don't have money for a 7th injector setup... And I have to drive to California on Thursday night so I need my car.
My urd pulley is apparently on the way, so fingers crossed it fixes my issue. I knew I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer, I wasted $138 for them to tell me it's bearings without even taking anything apart.

Yeah, just don't floor it and you'll be good. A little boost won't hurt it.

I actually had the 2.1" pulley installed for a couple of months before I had my water/meth injection set up. Had a bit of a nightmare trying to get a warranty claim with the company. Drove fine, just had to drive a bit slower than I wanted.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Didn't even think about that, I appreciate you telling me! Unfortunately I'll just have to keep out of boost for the next week or so until I can maybe source a stock pulley, cause I don't have money for a 7th injector setup... And I have to drive to California on Thursday night so I need my car.
My urd pulley is apparently on the way, so fingers crossed it fixes my issue. I knew I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer, I wasted $138 for them to tell me it's bearings without even taking anything apart.

Sourcing a stock pulley I found to be pretty diffficult, hence why I went smaller. The cheapest way to "deal" with more boost is a meth injection kit. Pretty easy to install and set up. Basically have it spray at or above 6 psi. I went with devils own for $ and simplicity. Happy so far(almost 3 years now).

 

[LiquidFlame]

Yeah, just don't floor it and you'll be good. A little boost won't hurt it.

I actually had the 2.1" pulley installed for a couple of months before I had my water/meth injection set up. Had a bit of a nightmare trying to get a warranty claim with the company. Drove fine, just had to drive a bit slower than I wanted.

Luckily I don't need to drive much daily, work and school are close. I'll just have to keep my lead foot in check.

Sourcing a stock pulley I found to be pretty diffficult, hence why I went smaller. The cheapest way to "deal" with more boost is a meth injection kit. Pretty easy to install and set up. Basically have it spray at or above 6 psi. I went with devils own for $ and simplicity. Happy so far(almost 3 years now).

That's what I'm finding out as well. The only way I think I'll get one is if somebody has one lying around, but im not that lucky.
Thanks for the input. I'll check out my options between now and when I can afford to buy anything hah.

 

[Hepar]

Have you guys tried them for pulley options?

3.4 Liter TRD Keyed Pulley

 

[gamefreakgc]

Have you guys tried them for pulley options?

3.4 Liter TRD Keyed Pulley

I was literally just looking at them.

I read that the 2.0" pulley does not clear the supercharger housing and a washer is needed.

I don't know if that's the case for the larger pulleys though.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Soo... I inquired about camshafts from Colt Cams and guess what? They have one, here's their email to me:

Thank-you, for contacting us.

We do offer a mild perf. grind that gained 22 HP

INT: 262° .347L

EXH: 264° .330 L

Cost is $600.00 for the set of 4 + $45.00 return shipping.

Customer supplies cam cores

If you are interested please give us a call at your convenience.

Thank-you,

Geoff Bardal @

Colt Cams Inc

By any chance is it one of you guys that has them installed? I'm guessing it's probably a Tacoma though.

I'm really, really considering this but because of smog stuff I'd need to keep a pair of stock cams in case it doesn't pass.

 

[LiquidFlame]

So I got the new pulley, and it still makes the noise! I'm completely out of ideas.... Does anyone know of there's anyone id be able to call that could help me out?

Also, maybe I'm missing a piece, because if I tighten the nut down, it presses the pulley against the housing and rubs against it. Is there something I'm missing?

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I got the new pulley, and it still makes the noise! I'm completely out of ideas.... Does anyone know of there's anyone id be able to call that could help me out?

Also, maybe I'm missing a piece, because if I tighten the nut down, it presses the pulley against the housing and rubs against it. Is there something I'm missing?

Unfortunately that's what I also read about the pulleys. Someone fixed that issue by finding a washer of the same size and cutting a notch in it to fit the key.

If you supercharger sounds like this, it's normal. It should clatter at idle a bit and then smooth out under acceleration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyEH37LEs3Y

If there's a problem with the coupler/bearings, it sounds more like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17GSC0cKq14