The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

So my wideband is up and running here are the numbers I have read so far today

At idle 14.1-14.9 reading

Boost it drops to 9.8ish when I climb to 7-8 psi

After I let off throttle on a hard pull like that the gauge reads 18 when I let off the throttle completely for a few times then goes back to about 14.5-14.6

Part throttle is 14.5-14.7

I have unplugged the 7th injector Setup from the injector clip and inside by unplugging the plug and play harness and plugging back In the harness plugs back directly back to the ecu to eliminate the 7th functioning to see if it maybe to blame. My mileage per tank full is only 180ish miles to tank light on. Suggestions? How do my numbers look?
 
Idle is perfect as it should be (around 14.7 or so, mine seems to float about 14.4-5) but your pretty damn rich at high 9's. I think high 10's-mid 11's is ideal. Might need to pull some fuel out from the 7th in my observation
 
So my wideband is up and running here are the numbers I have read so far today

At idle 14.1-14.9 reading

Boost it drops to 9.8ish when I climb to 7-8 psi

After I let off throttle on a hard pull like that the gauge reads 18 when I let off the throttle completely for a few times then goes back to about 14.5-14.6

Part throttle is 14.5-14.7

I have unplugged the 7th injector Setup from the injector clip and inside by unplugging the plug and play harness and plugging back In the harness plugs back directly back to the ecu to eliminate the 7th functioning to see if it maybe to blame. My mileage per tank full is only 180ish miles to tank light on. Suggestions? How do my numbers look?

Your 7th injector needs a way better tune. You should be getting 12's at max boost, not 9's.
 
Your 7th injector needs a way better tune. You should be getting 12's at max boost, not 9's.

i havent touched the tuning on the URd since i got it but with the base map i used to get 250-280 miles per 3/4 tank now i get 180per full tank... i just stumped. i still ping part throttle with the urd. the removal of the urd from the loop was to see if it was making me run too rich to the point i was just dumping fuel but it seems to not be the problem. i want to have a compitent tuner tune the URD instead of my self but hearing horrors storys from some friends about their experiences with well known tuners i have put it on hold.
 
i decided to go with the Supra injectors on my truck. It took some effort to get the right seal combination, but otherwise plug-n-play. I took it on a 400 mile trip, 80mph on cruise control, doesn't even drop out of converter lock on the hills, just leans into the boost and powers over. stays about 14.5-15 AFR.

i was expecting lower fuel mileage, but it was a 16.8 mpg run.

when i go to WOT, the AFR is right at 10 +- so i could probably run more boost.
 
Average 14.5 normal driving - drops below 10 when I hit the pedal.

Running Walbro pump - URD 7th injector and water / meth injection.

I may be looking to sell the entire setup without the water/meth.
 
i decided to go with the Supra injectors on my truck. It took some effort to get the right seal combination, but otherwise plug-n-play. I took it on a 400 mile trip, 80mph on cruise control, doesn't even drop out of converter lock on the hills, just leans into the boost and powers over. stays about 14.5-15 AFR.

i was expecting lower fuel mileage, but it was a 16.8 mpg run.

when i go to WOT, the AFR is right at 10 +- so i could probably run more boost.

That's awesome. Glad to hear that someone outside of the Taco crowd confirm it.

I have Lexus injectors like what Gadget used on his 4Runner (a local Toyota engine builder recommended them) about to go into mine. I also expect them to be pretty much drop in based on how high my long-term fuel trims are.
 
My mileage per tank full is only 180ish miles to tank light on. Suggestions? How do my numbers look?

I'm getting 230ish miles per tank with my Supercharged 4Runner: 2.2 pulley, w/7th Injector (& Pump that came with it) base map still in play.
Working on getting my AFR installed and then I'll be able to contribute those numbers.

GuF639w.jpg
 
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i havent touched the tuning on the URd since i got it but with the base map i used to get 250-280 miles per 3/4 tank now i get 180per full tank... i just stumped. i still ping part throttle with the urd. the removal of the urd from the loop was to see if it was making me run too rich to the point i was just dumping fuel but it seems to not be the problem. i want to have a compitent tuner tune the URD instead of my self but hearing horrors storys from some friends about their experiences with well known tuners i have put it on hold.


Are you saying that without the 7th connected you're getting 9's still? That's not right. Any CEL? A lean condition (I.e. Vacuum leak/MAF/P0171 code etc) would cause the ECM to add extra fuel accordingly, and give a rich mixture on your gauge.

Basically, with 7th disconnected and AFR still that low/rich, it ain't the URD system. Something else is likely wrong you haven't found.

Wanted to add: way after I installed my 7th, I had to do a heater core and tear out the entire dash. Upon completion all my AFR's were low in the 9's like yours. Turned out I had pinched the Vacuum/boost feed line to the URD computer and it was thinking it was under constant boost (since the hose didn't allow it to bounce back to vacuum and therefore didn't disable the 7th). And the URD only received pressure readings, or what it perceived as boost and added fuel accordingly. Something to consider looking at.

My guess is still on a vacuum leak tho. Triple check everything.

My $.02
 
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This is why I install my own crap. Helps you understand what's probable and possible...

First. Of course he didn't touch the knock sensors... Buuuut the knock sensors HARNESS actually runs right at the front of the intake. All the plugs are right behind the top of the timing cover and right in front of the fuel rail. It is 100% POSSIBLE that he messed up these plugs or wires... But not very probable. Look up "knock sensor harness replacement" and double check your connections and wire continuity....



You also have a lean condition... One of the easiest ways to get knock is to run lean.... So you may very well may be setting off both knock sensors cause your running too lean and pinging.

My guess is that you have a vacuum leak at the intake gasket... You should have a boost gauge attached cause that can help determine if you are even building boost.

Get a can of throttle body cleaner or the like and do spot sprays around the base of the supercharger plenum while idling and listen for an increase in rpms from it sucking in some of the spray... Then move to the throttle body. Then down the intake tube(least likely, but possible).

Start with those two things. Yourself. Then tell your mechanic what he did wrong and he's an idiot.

Alright guys, brought my car to a Toyota specialist (not dealership). He was able to fix the vacuum leaks but car is still running lean. He also mentioned that the knock sensors probably went bad after the supercharger install as it was probably on it's way out. Anything after 3k RPM, the car is pinging like crazy and just plain lags. Any clue?

He also recommends an adjustable fuel regulator and maybe a piggyback system to retard the timing by a few degrees to help with the knock sensor issue. The knock sensor code doesn't throw until after 3k RPM.
 
Alright guys, brought my car to a Toyota specialist (not dealership). He was able to fix the vacuum leaks but car is still running lean. He also mentioned that the knock sensors probably went bad after the supercharger install as it was probably on it's way out. Anything after 3k RPM, the car is pinging like crazy and just plain lags. Any clue?



He also recommends an adjustable fuel regulator and maybe a piggyback system to retard the timing by a few degrees to help with the knock sensor issue. The knock sensor code doesn't throw until after 3k RPM.


According to my knowledge, the 3.4's ECM ignores knock sensors until 3K so that makes sense. You need to get the sensor issue fixed. That would make the ECM mess with timing and that could indeed make the ping worse.

Also, if the MAF or 02 is reading too rich, the ECM would remove excessive fuel. Asjustable FPR is unnecessary for this system. I don't know of anyone needing it with a SC or even a 7th. It could be the diagram of the FPR ruptured and allows fuel to enter the SC, making it go rich and therefore pulling fuel while simultaneously starving injectors of added fuel and causing a double lean issue.

Pull off the little hose from FPR and have someone turn key on to power fuel pump: if fuel comes out of the hose, replace FPR. Otherwise, not too sure on that one.
 
Are you saying that without the 7th connected you're getting 9's still? That's not right. Any CEL? A lean condition (I.e. Vacuum leak/MAF/P0171 code etc) would cause the ECM to add extra fuel accordingly, and give a rich mixture on your gauge.

Basically, with 7th disconnected and AFR still that low/rich, it ain't the URD system. Something else is likely wrong you haven't found.

Wanted to add: way after I installed my 7th, I had to do a heater core and tear out the entire dash. Upon completion all my AFR's were low in the 9's like yours. Turned out I had pinched the Vacuum/boost feed line to the URD computer and it was thinking it was under constant boost (since the hose didn't allow it to bounce back to vacuum and therefore didn't disable the 7th). And the URD only received pressure readings, or what it perceived as boost and added fuel accordingly. Something to consider looking at.

My guess is still on a vacuum leak tho. Triple check everything.

My $.02

no cell whatsoever have had this issue ever since i changed out the knock sensors. have never recovered mileage afterwards. ill look at my lines to the back of the blower where my boost gauge reads but my boost gauge reads vacumn and boost pressure while i drive.

could it be possible the one way check valve is bad?
 
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thought i would post up this pic, comparing the stock injector to the non-turbo supra.

you can see the stock one is about 6-8mm longer and the Supra tip requires the supra rubber seal (#4), otherwise the other seals (1,2,3) from the stock injector work.

stock injector is on the right.

4bangr-albums-my_3rdgen-picture49396-injector2.jpg
 
thought i would post up this pic, comparing the stock injector to the non-turbo supra.

you can see the stock one is about 6-8mm longer and the Supra tip requires the supra rubber seal (#4), otherwise the other seals (1,2,3) from the stock injector work.

stock injector is on the right.

4bangr-albums-my_3rdgen-picture49396-injector2.jpg

I just put these in my engine today. I was running so lean with the headers and intake mods I've done that they were literally drop in & go. ECU has adjusted fuel trims perfectly. On stock injectors my LTFT's were at 19.5%. Now they are at -4.5%! Much, much better.
 
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So after hooking back up my 7th injector I when for a drive home from work I usually commute fwy back and forth to work so I was able to do this pull from vacuum into boost up to 8.5 psi as you can see my afr also pegs pretty rich on the gauge about 10 or lower at the 8.5 psi. The gauge is an aem failsafe afr/ boost gauge.

https://youtu.be/VJR6RRGXNhs

Any ideas guys I have checked the vacuum lines for any leaks but don’t see any. Going to clean out the mag again tommorow as well. Also any of you guys using a baffle oil catch can as well? Recommendations?
 
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thought i would post up this pic, comparing the stock injector to the non-turbo supra.

you can see the stock one is about 6-8mm longer and the Supra tip requires the supra rubber seal (#4), otherwise the other seals (1,2,3) from the stock injector work.

stock injector is on the right.

4bangr-albums-my_3rdgen-picture49396-injector2.jpg

Great info. Any specific info on what year range/ drivetrain to look for when buying the injectors? I have been debating replacing/ upgrading my injectors at the point I send off my s/c to get it rebuilt at a shop.
 

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