The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Killer Squirrel]

For those of you with the 1st gen sc that upgraded from the plate pulley to the dynamic tensioner... in the PTR29-60032 full that sells for ~$350, it comes with the main bracket and bolts, then a few other little brackets and such. I'm going to try and get just the base required items from Magnuson to be able to upgrade to the dynamic and wanted to know if those smaller brackets were something I really needed or could do without? I still can't believe that kit is so much, basically $300 for a couple bolts and brackets...

 

[gamefreakgc]

For those of you with the 1st gen sc that upgraded from the plate pulley to the dynamic tensioner... in the PTR29-60032 full that sells for ~$350, it comes with the main bracket and bolts, then a few other little brackets and such. I'm going to try and get just the base required items from Magnuson to be able to upgrade to the dynamic and wanted to know if those smaller brackets were something I really needed or could do without? I still can't believe that kit is so much, basically $300 for a couple bolts and brackets...

URD sells the kit for a more reasonable price of $177.50: Magnsuon Dynamic Tensioner Kit for 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6 Supercharger - Underdog Racing Development

The smaller brackets are the dipstick relocation brackets. You'll need it or the tensioner and/or belt will contact the oil dipstick.

 

[Black798]

Hoping someone can offer some insight here. Cough [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]... Im attempting to nail down my tune for the supercharger right now and am running into some issues. I am using a mapecu3 hooked up in the MAF intercept mode. Issue I am having is for the first few days that I run a tune I can get the truck to run amazing, afrs in the low 12s and high 11s no ping and lots of power and fuel trims at +-5. 3 days down the line though the truck will very quickly go from running like a top to running lean under light boost and pig rich under high load and boost, Im talking like low 10s for the afrs and I can feel it bog hard. the fuel trims also go through the roof. This is all in closed loop too.

I attached a few pics of my logs to give some data points and hopefully to help paint a decent picture of what is going on. The issue I am having is what causes the sudden drift in the tune and the stock computer fighting it so hard. Looking at it when under boost my O2 input to the mapecu is showing around .9 volts (rich for a narrow band) and the output to the stock ecu is .45 volts which I have read is pretty much dead on at stoich, so this is telling me I have the right o2 skewing dialed in. This will net me the AFRs i want which is in the low 12s, but then looking at another pull it will have near identical o2 values and MAF values and yet the afr tanks to the low 10s, so what gives? Ive got the tune pretty dialed I just need to figure out how get the computer to hold it so any input is appreciated. Right now I am resetting the factory ecu again and leaned my tune out a touch and will try again tomorrow

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yeah, it's running rich alright. I have 3 ideas to try:

1. I fought my AFR's for a while because I had half a fuel map and my 98 ECU hated when the piggyback sent a "0" value. For example, I had fuel trims set at a negative number which would transition to a positive value. Any time it hit "0" it went nasty rich and then would flip-flop and pull all fuel and go lean. You might be experiencing the same thing. Can you post a screenshot of your MAF or Fuel map?

2. Pull your EFI fuse and give it a spin. Does all the fuel trims go back to normal and AFR's are good? If so your tune isn't holding.

3. Record your Short-term and Long-Term fuel trims when the tune is good and when it goes bad. What values is it giving you? Will tell you if it's an O2 skew issue or fuel/MAF tune issue.

The O2 sensor on a Toyota is like the One Ring, it rules all other sensors with an iron fist lol.

 

[Black798]

So here are screenshots of the fuel and O2 skewing maps both in graph and table form. The fuel table values are chnging the MAF signal that the stock ecu sees. So a value of .20 would add .20 volts to the incoming maf signal


Pulled the efi fuse last night so well see how it runs this morning and Ill report back.

When the tune was running good the short term and long term fuel trims in boost were near zero except for a few random spots where it would spike to +12 or -15. Once the tune goes bad though even when cruising in vacuum the fuel trims will be all over the damn place. Ive also noticed sometimes at idle for some weird reason the fuel trims will all of a sudden spike to -21 and it will lean way out untill it stalls. Im sure this is related but as you can see my maps dont have any values in the idle range where it would be doing this.

Ill do some pulls this afternoon and get some better data logs about what the O2 voltages are and the fuel trims.

 

[gamefreakgc]

A few things:

1. Fill out your MAF skew one more row and column. Normally a cell will average out the cells surrounding it, so if you hit 6.0 PSI at 4500 RPM, it may not actually send a signal of 0.15, it may be lower. So build our your tunes to 5500 RPM's and 7.5 PSI for a stock pulley.

2. Try running closed loop with only the O2 sensor map. I suggest saving your tune you have now, copy the file and zero out the MAF map 4.5 PSI and below. See if the tune stays longer.

3. Is there a reason that at low PSI, you are adding more fuel at 3000 RPM than at 4500 RPM on the MAF? That might be why it's rich.

4. You may not need enrichment in vacuum. Also up to you if you need it at 0 PSI, since that one does affect your MPG's a bit.

 

[Black798]

A few things:

1. Fill out your MAF skew one more row and column. Normally a cell will average out the cells surrounding it, so if you hit 6.0 PSI at 4500 RPM, it may not actually send a signal of 0.15, it may be lower. So build our your tunes to 5500 RPM's and 7.5 PSI for a stock pulley.

2. Try running closed loop with only the O2 sensor map. I suggest saving your tune you have now, copy the file and zero out the MAF map 4.5 PSI and below. See if the tune stays longer.

3. Is there a reason that at low PSI, you are adding more fuel at 3000 RPM than at 4500 RPM on the MAF? That might be why it's rich.

4. You may not need enrichment in vacuum. Also up to you if you need it at 0 PSI, since that one does affect your MPG's a bit.

So bit of an update, I zeroed out the maf table and redid my o2 map to be more gradual. I reset the ecu and now have about 40 miles on the tune and it appears that its holding. It seems like I need to let the ecu creep up on the afrs I want rather than making it happen right away. If I force it to go there it eventually catches up and goes even richer. The way its tuned currently I hit the mid 13 AFRs by 2-3 psi and by 4 psi I am into the low 12s where it holds steady there up to 5psi which is where Im maxing out. Well see how it holds over the next few days but I have a decent feeling about it this time.

The weird thing is each time I pull a large grade my AFR goes down to where I want and holds steady, I crest the hill back out of the throttle and the AFRs go back to 14.7 and my fuel trims will then bounce around for awhile going from heavy negative to heavy positive values. As of now Im just ignoring the fuel trims to see if the tune will hold because if it holds then I dont really care where the trims are. I think since I dont have direct control over the injector pulse width like the AEM fic6 does I need larger than usual fuel trims.

 

[Vooryjoni]

Hi guys, my 1998 Limited V6 has 253k miles... it that too much mileage for me to add a supercharger? Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Black798]

Hi guys, my 1998 Limited V6 has 253k miles... it that to much mileage for me to add a supercharger? Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably not. Do a compression test. If the cylinders still make good compression and are consistent I wouldn't hesitate to bolt one on

 

[gamefreakgc]

So bit of an update, I zeroed out the maf table and redid my o2 map to be more gradual. I reset the ecu and now have about 40 miles on the tune and it appears that its holding. It seems like I need to let the ecu creep up on the afrs I want rather than making it happen right away. If I force it to go there it eventually catches up and goes even richer. The way its tuned currently I hit the mid 13 AFRs by 2-3 psi and by 4 psi I am into the low 12s where it holds steady there up to 5psi which is where Im maxing out. Well see how it holds over the next few days but I have a decent feeling about it this time.

The weird thing is each time I pull a large grade my AFR goes down to where I want and holds steady, I crest the hill back out of the throttle and the AFRs go back to 14.7 and my fuel trims will then bounce around for awhile going from heavy negative to heavy positive values. As of now Im just ignoring the fuel trims to see if the tune will hold because if it holds then I dont really care where the trims are. I think since I dont have direct control over the injector pulse width like the AEM fic6 does I need larger than usual fuel trims.

I think you are on the right path. It'll almost be like you have two separate tunes combined in one, O2 sensor only for closed loop, and then MAF for open loop. Once you get past about 60-70% throttle it will switch into open loop and ignore the O2 skew and use your MAF voltages.

Mine does the same thing after a climb. It'll go rich once I get off the throttle, O2 sensor reverses and goes too lean, then evens out. Usually by 1-2 seconds it's back in the high 14's.

Your AFR's are also very good, you don't want 12.0 AFR at 1 PSI, you'll actually lose power. Sounds like you are learning not only how to use the MAP3ECU, but also how to work with the stock ECU.

 

[Vooryjoni]

Thanks Black798, will do.

 

[Black798]

I think you are on the right path. It'll almost be like you have two separate tunes combined in one, O2 sensor only for closed loop, and then MAF for open loop. Once you get past about 60-70% throttle it will switch into open loop and ignore the O2 skew and use your MAF voltages.

Mine does the same thing after a climb. It'll go rich once I get off the throttle, O2 sensor reverses and goes too lean, then evens out. Usually by 1-2 seconds it's back in the high 14's.

Your AFR's are also very good, you don't want 12.0 AFR at 1 PSI, you'll actually lose power. Sounds like you are learning not only how to use the MAP3ECU, but also how to work with the stock ECU.

Its a lot like trying to get a 5 year old to do exactly what you want every time you ask for it haha. I haven't even bothered tuning open loop yet, I figure I should let the closed loop tune stick first that way the open loop tune has a consistent foundation to build off. I rarely go into open loop anyway and as it is the motor runs plenty safe because as soon as it hits open loop I drop to low 10s for the AFR. Kinda surprising knowing how limited the fuel system is.

On my original closed loop tune I was hitting the 12s as soon as the motor saw boost and not only was it destroying my fuel economy it always felt like the power delivery was really spongy for a lack of better term. Really torquey but no real punch to it. If it stays driving how it is now though I think I will be happy with it and Ill feel comfortable throwing the 2.2 pulley on. I should be able to tell by the end of the week

 

[tlovick]

Hey 798,
Mine is a 2001 SR5 4x 3.6L supercharged.

I recently had a check engine code for MAF sensor which I replaced. Now I have a check engine code for P0171 bank1. I don't have a handheld computer, just a code reader. I understand that a lean condition may not necessarily be the air-fuel ratio sensor.
1. What can I do other than manually check for pirate air leaks?
2. Can you recommend a decent handheld device <$100?

T

 

[Black798]

Hey 798,
Mine is a 2001 SR5 4x 3.6L supercharged.

I recently had a check engine code for MAF sensor which I replaced. Now I have a check engine code for P0171 bank1. I don't have a handheld computer, just a code reader. I understand that a lean condition may not necessarily be the air-fuel ratio sensor.
1. What can I do other than manually check for pirate air leaks?
2. Can you recommend a decent handheld device <$100?

T

What conditions are causing the lean code. Is it under load? Idle? or just cruising? That will change the list of what could be causing it. I would imagine if you had a vacuum leak causing it the leak would be very significant. How old is your current bank 1 sensor? If it has more than 90k miles on it I would replace it anyway.

Not sure what you mean by handheld computer, I use my regular laptop for interfacing with my piggy back and a scangauge 2 for looking at my fuel trims and other obd data. I also have a harbor freight code reader that has the ability to data log and view it real time which has served me well in the past.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey 798,
Mine is a 2001 SR5 4x 3.6L supercharged.

I recently had a check engine code for MAF sensor which I replaced. Now I have a check engine code for P0171 bank1. I don't have a handheld computer, just a code reader. I understand that a lean condition may not necessarily be the air-fuel ratio sensor.
1. What can I do other than manually check for pirate air leaks?
2. Can you recommend a decent handheld device <$100?

T

9 out of 10 times it's a vacuum leak. Check your intake tube & hoses and look up Eric the Car Guy's video on how to check for a vacuum leak if you don't find any obvious offenders, he uses carb cleaner and propane. I've done both and it works very well.

 

[nchacon1984]

Every since I got my 7th injector kit installed my 4x4 hasnt work. I was thinking maybe the shop disconnected something and didnt reconnect after installation. I bought my SC from a friend but apparently he didnt give me all the parts

I found this little guy which I think is the culprit to my 4x4 not engaging.


I see it connected here but not on the other end.


So i checked out the install instruction on the SC group on FB and noticed that I need this Tee for it




Does anyone know of an alternative way to connect this or the diameter Tee I need that I can find at Home Depot or something?

 

[4Reak Show]

You can try one of these. Should be available at any local auto parts store like o-reileys or autozone

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VFMZkCh0OKg8BEAkYASABEgKUp_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Black798]

Every since I got my 7th injector kit installed my 4x4 hasnt work. I was thinking maybe the shop disconnected something and didnt reconnect after installation. I bought my SC from a friend but apparently he didnt give me all the parts

I found this little guy which I think is the culprit to my 4x4 not engaging.
View attachment 339209

I see it connected here but not on the other end.
View attachment 339210

So i checked out the install instruction on the SC group on FB and noticed that I need this Tee for it
View attachment 339211

View attachment 339212

Does anyone know of an alternative way to connect this or the diameter Tee I need that I can find at Home Depot or something?

Mine is connected to the same vacuum port that the vacuum throttle opener is connected to. Works like a charm and no need to find a off sized t fitting since the vacuum opener and the 4x4 vsv use the same diameter pipe

 

[nchacon1984]

You can try one of these. Should be available at any local auto parts store like o-reileys or autozone

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

You are the man. Got one and it worked.

 

[infamousRNR]

Attention freaks! [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] & [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]

I couldn’t find it in this thread but do you know where to source the rear bearings for a black SC rebuild?

Also, do you know if you have to extract the bearings or can you press/hammer them out?....


. Thanks my dudes!