The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

Awesome data! These superchargers are known to run hot (hence the need for secondary fueling) but without an EGT sensor we're blind. Can you tie in the EGT readings into your piggyback as well or it is just for the gauge?

Also, has anyone tried using DENSO Iridium racing plugs? They have a super low profile and don't block the spark like the IK2X's. Their little dyno graph shows a 1.3% increase in power but that's on a 2-cycle engine so not sure. But they sure do look different:

iridium-racing-spark-plug_1.jpg

I haven't found a way to tie the egt sensor into the piggyback yet. Currently searching though because it would be really nice for data logging.

the heat of the blower is our biggest limiting factor and it really sucks. Playing with it today with ambient temps around 40 I pretty easily found a spot where a 1 degree variance in timing was the difference between pinging and not. Also been struggling over the past couple months with my temps climbing from 188 to 197 when I'm climbing longer grades. Not really sure what to do there

Once I get some time towards the end of the year I'm going to look at putting a really small meth nozzel in the 7th injector port purely for cooling since there's realistically no way of adding a intercooler. Wire that into one of the nitrous outputs on my piggyback to turn on at mid to higher boost levels for the summer months
 
I haven't found a way to tie the egt sensor into the piggyback yet. Currently searching though because it would be really nice for data logging.

the heat of the blower is our biggest limiting factor and it really sucks. Playing with it today with ambient temps around 40 I pretty easily found a spot where a 1 degree variance in timing was the difference between pinging and not. Also been struggling over the past couple months with my temps climbing from 188 to 197 when I'm climbing longer grades. Not really sure what to do there

Once I get some time towards the end of the year I'm going to look at putting a really small meth nozzel in the 7th injector port purely for cooling since there's realistically no way of adding a intercooler. Wire that into one of the nitrous outputs on my piggyback to turn on at mid to higher boost levels for the summer months

You know... nitrous is a cryogenic gas... if I can save up the money and get a few things done on my exhaust I'm adding nitrous. Injecting a gas at -120 degrees F definitely cools down your intake charge! On average you get a 60 degree reduction in temperature. That's why if you put in a 35 shot, you get more like 50 HP from a forced induction engine, or at 50 shot is more like a 75. The cooling effect gains power.
 
1st Gen Rebuild

Picked up a 98 with a Dealer Installed 1st Gen Supercharger and it's making noise. Rig has about 150K on it (2wd, A/T, Limited) and the SC has not been maintained. I'm in CA and I'm told the Rotor Packs are no longer available - I'm not sure if mine needs rotors, but I figure my best options is to send out to be inspected and rebuilt. Anyone have any recommendations of where to get it rebuild or any suggestions in general?

Thanks in advance!
 
Picked up a 98 with a Dealer Installed 1st Gen Supercharger and it's making noise. Rig has about 150K on it (2wd, A/T, Limited) and the SC has not been maintained. I'm in CA and I'm told the Rotor Packs are no longer available - I'm not sure if mine needs rotors, but I figure my best options is to send out to be inspected and rebuilt. Anyone have any recommendations of where to get it rebuild or any suggestions in general?

Thanks in advance!

These superchargers are very simple. If it's the black version, I recommend just replacing the nose cone assembly as it's highly unlikely your rotors are bad. That includes new bearings, gears, coupler, everything in one simple part. It's just 10 bolts and the thing comes off.

Last I checked the nose cone assembly was around $250 from Magnuson directly. It will take you more time to remove the supercharger from the vehicle than it will to "rebuild" the nose cone.
 
AFR after 3psi, 12.5
No ping
EGT 1500 degrees

From the limited info out there I was able to find of guys running egt gauges on the 5vz they were making peak power right at 1400 degrees and this also proved to be the sweet spot for my motor.
I chuckled at this one a bit. My 3s-gte cruises on the freeway at ~1400*F in vacuum (EGT 3" from exhaust ports, pre-turbo). So let's not talk about how the 5VZ runs hot. :nod:

-Charlie
 
These superchargers are very simple. If it's the black version, I recommend just replacing the nose cone assembly as it's highly unlikely your rotors are bad. That includes new bearings, gears, coupler, everything in one simple part. It's just 10 bolts and the thing comes off.

Last I checked the nose cone assembly was around $250 from Magnuson directly. It will take you more time to remove the supercharger from the vehicle than it will to "rebuild" the nose cone.
It's the tan version and Magnuson told me they don't sell any "internals" only the systems.
I also spoke to Superchargersonline - they offered to do a Stage 1 rebuild and they do have the kit for it, but they have no options for the rotor pack.
I should have this off today and hopefully the rotors are good and I won't have to worry about it.
Thanks gamefreakgc for your reply!
 
I choose to mount the egt probe just past the flange where the exhaust collector mounts to the header for a few reasons. The first being accessibility, it was nice and easy to get a drill and welder torch in there, the second biggest reason for mounting here was to not have to drill a hole into the cast manifold and risk cracking it.

are you going to do the other bank?
 
It's the tan version and Magnuson told me they don't sell any "internals" only the systems.
I also spoke to Superchargersonline - they offered to do a Stage 1 rebuild and they do have the kit for it, but they have no options for the rotor pack.
I should have this off today and hopefully the rotors are good and I won't have to worry about it.
Thanks gamefreakgc for your reply!

Ah, yeah then you will most likely need to have it rebuilt by a shop unless you are handy with a press for the bearings. I still think it's just the front bearings allowing play & making the noise. My bearings are also starting to go out.
 
are you going to do the other bank?

No plans to currently. I don't see any way to get a probe in there without pulling the exhaust header or the entire motor. Based off the way the intake is designed the passenger side is also the most likely to run hotter so I feel that monitoring the passenger bank only is sufficient. In an ideal world I would have a probe in each cylinder but in a street driven truck it's not really necessary.

So far I've been getting good data off the egt prove though and it has really helped with identifying any areas of pinging and picking up some torque for pulling hills. I feel like I'm really getting the tune nailed on this thing now
 
despite it being hard to get to, id still put a egt probe on the other bank. it is still good info to know and may alert you of a potential issue down the road.

i know you're not going to, but theres a reason why people probe both banks, and its not just to make power.
 
despite it being hard to get to, id still put a egt probe on the other bank. it is still good info to know and may alert you of a potential issue down the road.

i know you're not going to, but theres a reason why people probe both banks, and its not just to make power.

Yeah I understand that. That was why I installed the gauge to begin with. Just seemed dumb only knowing what the afr but not anything else. But there's also a lot of guys running the supercharger with no gauges it tuning at all which I think is just plain stupid. It would be good data to have but I just don't see how I would be able to access the pipe on that side and I'd need to get a dual gauge then as well
 
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Yeah I understand that. That was why I installed the gauge to begin with. Just seemed dumb only knowing what the afr but not anything else. But there's also a lot of guys running the supercharger with no gauges it tuning at all which I think is just plain stupid. It would be good data to have but I just don't see how I would be able to access the pipe on that side and I'd need to get a dual gauge then as well

Good points. Better than nothing. Glad you got it figured out and were able to get a little bump in power. :)
 
Does anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area (preferably South Bay) have recommendations on a shop that can install the URD/Magnuson Supercharger and 7th injector kit?

I have a recommendation for a shop in Sacramento, but that's kinda far from you. All Automotive Service in Citrus Heights is a 2 man operation and their main guy, Gardner used to install superchargers at Toyota. He did a fantastic header install on my supercharged 4Runner. Funny thing is, he used to bend a certain bracket on the supercharger kit a certain way which showed that he was the one who put the supercharger on my 4Runner when it was brand new years ago!
 
Ah, yeah then you will most likely need to have it rebuilt by a shop unless you are handy with a press for the bearings. I still think it's just the front bearings allowing play & making the noise. My bearings are also starting to go out.
Thanks again gamefreakgc, I'm hoping you're right! Will let you know what I find.
 
I have a recommendation for a shop in Sacramento, but that's kinda far from you. All Automotive Service in Citrus Heights is a 2 man operation and their main guy, Gardner used to install superchargers at Toyota. He did a fantastic header install on my supercharged 4Runner. Funny thing is, he used to bend a certain bracket on the supercharger kit a certain way which showed that he was the one who put the supercharger on my 4Runner when it was brand new years ago!

Sac works as I have in-laws there. Thanks!!!

To get a rough idea on labor cost, how many hours (each) would it take to install the supercharger and 7th injector kit?
 
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Bought my 1999 4runner with 60k on the engine and 240k on chassis. Since the engine is fairly new, is it recommended that I still get a compression test done before purchasing the SC?
 
Bought my 1999 4runner with 60k on the engine and 240k on chassis. Since the engine is fairly new, is it recommended that I still get a compression test done before purchasing the SC?


[MENTION=71738]Smog-guy707[/MENTION] put his sc on at 315k
And I just put mine on at 235k
You can compression test it, but is it really going to stop you from getting the supercharger? It wouldn’t stop me
Run it till she blows than get another one.
 
Roger that. I am at 340 now and it has never ran better.

Just put it on. If it is running good now, it is going to run better when you supercharge it

I put the blower and bigger injectors and I actually gained 1 mpg lol


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hey all, I was getting ready to install my supercharger this weekend and was going through the list of parts and came up with a couple of questions.

for reference I live in Houston (sea level)

1- Can I install just the supercharger without upgrading spark plugs, or installing the larger fuel pump?

2- Where can I buy just the larger fuel pump? (bought my kit used and didnt come with one) anyone have a part number?

3- Can I install the URD 7th injector and not install the larger fuel pump?
 
hey all, I was getting ready to install my supercharger this weekend and was going through the list of parts and came up with a couple of questions.



for reference I live in Houston (sea level)



1- Can I install just the supercharger without upgrading spark plugs, or installing the larger fuel pump?



2- Where can I buy just the larger fuel pump? (bought my kit used and didnt come with one) anyone have a part number?



3- Can I install the URD 7th injector and not install the larger fuel pump?



1 - of course. Ping is going to happen more than likely.

2 - here Walbro 190 LPH pump kit for 5VZ, 2RZ, and 3RZ - Underdog Racing Development

3 - yes, but the pump won't be supplying enough overall, or so they say.

Remember, TRD designed these systems and ran them for years without a pump upgrade (pumpgrade?) and it worked fine overall. Just avoid the 2-3K range WHILE BOOSTING and you'll be fine.
 

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