The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

Pretty cool comparison. Though its really difficult to say which power adder is better as having 5.29 gearing on the turbo one kind of skews the result I think, especially for those lower speeds. Having said that, I am sure the turbo setup is overall more efficient. How's spool on that GT3071? Is it remote mounted or in the bay?
 
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I feel like the 1st gen supercharger would be much easier than a 2nd to integrate an air/air intercooler. Even though it wouldn't be as great as water meth, I never have to worry about it and it would be considerably better than nothing. Damn might be worth picking one up....
 
Pretty cool comparison. Though its really difficult to say which power adder is better as having 5.29 gearing on the turbo one kind of skews the result I think, especially for those lower speeds. Having said that, I am sure the turbo setup is overall more efficient. How's spool on that GT3071? Is it remote mounted or in the bay?

The gt3071 is damn near perfect size for the 3.4. It starts spooling around 1700 and I can hit full boost by 2200 2300ish. So paired up with the auto it's got great response and cruises effortlessly on the highway.

The gearing definitely plays a role for sure. But I think the 1000lb weight deficit is working more against the white one than the gearing is helping it. That's a lot more mass to get moving.

For what it's worth the turbo setup took 3 seconds off the 0 to 60 that the white one had when I was running a supercharger with the 2.2 pulley on it. I'm not so much concerned with speed on that truck anyway. Mainly did it for highway cruising power and I've got more than enough now. Even with the supercharger it struggled to do 70 on any incline and now I can run up a 6% incline in 4th gear at 75 with more to give.
 
The gt3071 is damn near perfect size for the 3.4. It starts spooling around 1700 and I can hit full boost by 2200 2300ish. So paired up with the auto it's got great response and cruises effortlessly on the highway.

The gearing definitely plays a role for sure. But I think the 1000lb weight deficit is working more against the white one than the gearing is helping it. That's a lot more mass to get moving.

For what it's worth the turbo setup took 3 seconds off the 0 to 60 that the white one had when I was running a supercharger with the 2.2 pulley on it. I'm not so much concerned with speed on that truck anyway. Mainly did it for highway cruising power and I've got more than enough now. Even with the supercharger it struggled to do 70 on any incline and now I can run up a 6% incline in 4th gear at 75 with more to give.

Thats really awesome to hear. What hotside did you go with?
 
0.63ar t3 flange single scroll. Only thing I wish I would have done was an internal wastegate for simplicity. I'd like to try a twin scroll housing some day but it works extremely well for my use as it sits
 
Any of you guys know if the cones are the same? Meaning a direct fit for 1st and 2nd gens nose cones.


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0.63ar t3 flange single scroll. Only thing I wish I would have done was an internal wastegate for simplicity. I'd like to try a twin scroll housing some day but it works extremely well for my use as it sits

How do you feel about the CX racing manifold quality? You think its gonna crack anytime soon? That's my big concern about that cheap stuff, but unfortunately nobody else has any turbo manifolds.
 
Installing the supercharger today and trying to find a destination for the valve cover vacuum port on the drivers side and where it runs to?
 

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Supercharger installed!! Man it’s feels so good! Should have done it forever ago ! Only issue I’m facing right now is my tranny is shifting hard like the kick down cable is too tight. I’ve adjusted it back and forth and it changes a little bit but it doesn’t shift as smooth as it did before.
Wondering if I have been driving too aggressive already with the S/C
 
Supercharger installed!! Man it’s feels so good! Should have done it forever ago ! Only issue I’m facing right now is my tranny is shifting hard like the kick down cable is too tight. I’ve adjusted it back and forth and it changes a little bit but it doesn’t shift as smooth as it did before.
Wondering if I have been driving too aggressive already with the S/C

The cable is tricky to route correctly. I had that happen after my engine swap where it shifted super hard. I found out that the cable had broken off at the bracket where it enters the transmission. A quick fix and we were good again. Also make sure you eliminate every fraction of an inch of slack going up along the exhaust and the engine hanger. I had to bend the hanger clips a bit to get a more direct route.
 
Anybody got the 2 bracket for the throttle cable and other cable for sale? My used charger came with the single throttle bracket.


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The cable is tricky to route correctly. I had that happen after my engine swap where it shifted super hard. I found out that the cable had broken off at the bracket where it enters the transmission. A quick fix and we were good again. Also make sure you eliminate every fraction of an inch of slack going up along the exhaust and the engine hanger. I had to bend the hanger clips a bit to get a more direct route.

Yeah, ive played with the adjustment a lot. Pulled all the slack out where it goes to the tranny. Only shifts hard when accelerating. You can feel it when i shift form park to drive/reverse too. Will a new cable help? I can't seem to soften the shifting at all
 
Yeah, ive played with the adjustment a lot. Pulled all the slack out where it goes to the tranny. Only shifts hard when accelerating. You can feel it when i shift form park to drive/reverse too. Will a new cable help? I can't seem to soften the shifting at all

No, cables don't shorten over time, they stretch. If anything a new one would be marginally shorter. Plus you'd have to take apart the transmission and valve body to hook up the cable, it attaches internally to the transmission.

I would get under the vehicle and see if yours also broke on the plastic bracket that holds down the kick-down cable. If fine, then unclip everything exhaust up to the throttle body so it's completely loose and then readjust the kickdown cable. The little 'knub' on the cable should be flush to slightly protruding to the rubber grommet on the end of the cable. If you want, you can overtighten by 2-3 mm so it downshifts more often into the power band. However if it's more than that you get the hard shifts like what you have right now. I'd guess it's more like 5mm protruding?
 

Well it almost seems as if I need some tranny and motor mounts. If I have the hood raised while in park and shift to drive/reverse, I can peak through the windshield and see my engine move quite a bit. It’s a good “clunk” but it definitely wasn’t like the before I added the S/C. I’m going to keep playing with the cable.. does the slack need to be tighter coming from the tranny or throttle body ?

I’m gonna check underneath and see if it broke off the clips first and go from there
 
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Well it almost seems as if I need some tranny and motor mounts. If I have the hood raised while in park and shift to drive/reverse, I can peak through the windshield and see my engine move quite a bit. It’s a good “clunk” but it definitely wasn’t like the before I added the S/C. I’m going to keep playing with the cable.. does the slack need to be tighter coming from the tranny or throttle body ?

I’m gonna check underneath and see if it broke off the clips first and go from there

Update: Played around with the cable and it shifts a whole lot better now ! I’m not really sure what I did to solve it. I basically loosened it to the max like I have before but I think I pulled the slack from the tranny this time.. who knows ! Problem solved
 
1st gen refurb questions

Hi everyone -

I just started pulling apart my 1st gen SC with the intent to refurb the nose cone and hopefully replace the rear needle bearings as well. Two questions that have cropped up:

1. Is there a trick to removing the rotor pack/rotor plate? On the 1st gen, there isn't a lip or any sort of tabs on the rotor plate to pry against. The nose cone has nice tabs to pry it off, but the plate seems quite stuck and isn't responding to general tapping. Should I (or shouldn't I) apply some heat to try and release the gasket bond?

2. Is it OK to just replace the rear needle bearings and not mess with the rotor plate bearings (and corresponding seals)? Contingent on the front rotor bearings feeling OK, of course.

Thanks!
 

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