The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[gamefreakgc]

Hi everyone -

I just started pulling apart my 1st gen SC with the intent to refurb the nose cone and hopefully replace the rear needle bearings as well. Two questions that have cropped up:

1. Is there a trick to removing the rotor pack/rotor plate? On the 1st gen, there isn't a lip or any sort of tabs on the rotor plate to pry against. The nose cone has nice tabs to pry it off, but the plate seems quite stuck and isn't responding to general tapping. Should I (or shouldn't I) apply some heat to try and release the gasket bond?

2. Is it OK to just replace the rear needle bearings and not mess with the rotor plate bearings (and corresponding seals)? Contingent on the front rotor bearings feeling OK, of course.

Thanks!

1. Heat is ok, within reason. The supercharger housing is made to withstand very high heat. It should start to tap free.

2. Yes. The rotor bearings can be done incorrectly and are very complex compared to the rest. Unless you see very bad circular scoring on the back of the rotor housing (around the rear needle bearings) then assume they are fine.

 

[nhenscheid]

1. Heat is ok, within reason. The supercharger housing is made to withstand very high heat. It should start to tap free.

2. Yes. The rotor bearings can be done incorrectly and are very complex compared to the rest. Unless you see very bad circular scoring on the back of the rotor housing (around the rear needle bearings) then assume they are fine.

Excellent, thanks a ton!

 

[nhenscheid]

Another quick question - does anyone know the correct spec for the little 10mm nut that holds the rotor housing onto the manifold? This little guy:

I kind of mangled it while getting it out. I feel like a standard M6x1 would probably work but it seems like it might be a nylock and/or flange nut.

Any tips?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Another quick question - does anyone know the correct spec for the little 10mm nut that holds the rotor housing onto the manifold? This little guy:


I kind of mangled it while getting it out. I feel like a standard M6x1 would probably work but it seems like it might be a nylock and/or flange nut.

Any tips?

I don't know of any torque spec for that nut. My general rule of thumb for these unknown nuts and bolts are:

14mm = Strong arm it
12mm = Firm and snug
10mm = Slightly more than finger tight

Has yet to let me down.

 

[nhenscheid]

Sorry, I meant spec as in what size & type of nut to get to replace it with, not torque spec. It just seems like an odd/special size so I thought I'd see if anyone knew a source for it.

 

[Bad Luck]

I don't know of any torque spec for that nut. My general rule of thumb for these unknown nuts and bolts are:

14mm = Strong arm it
12mm = Firm and snug
10mm = Slightly more than finger tight

Has yet to let me down.

A fellow kindred spirit :cheers:

 

[gamefreakgc]

Oh, my bad!

I get my metric nuts and bolts from Home Depot or Ace Hardware. HD has a separate drawer on the end that has all their metric nuts and bolts. If I can't find it there, Ace Hardware always has it but for 2x the price.

 

[nhenscheid]

Sorry, I meant spec as in what size & type of nut to get to replace it with, not torque spec. It just seems like an odd/special size so I thought I'd see if anyone knew a source for it.

FYI for anyone who happens across this in the future - it's an M8x1.25 nut, but it needs to be a 10mm wrench size (width across the flats) in order to fit in the little recess. I couldn't find such a nut so I made one by taking an M6 nut (10mm across the flats), drilling and tapping it out to M8x1.25. Helps a lot if you have a metal lathe but just a vice and a steady hand should work too.

 

[nhenscheid]

OK wizards, here's my next challenge. I thought it would be a good idea to swap out the gaskets in my bypass valve assembly - there are supposed to be two of them, one where the pipe meets the rotor housing, and one where the pipe meets the butterfly valve housing. My problem is, I can't get the pipe separated from the butterfly housing - the retaining clip broke and now it's stuck on there:

Any bright ideas for getting that thing off there without completely destroying it? Anyone have a source for buying a new bypass assembly (not the valve but the butterfly assembly & pipe)?

I'll probably just get it put back together as-is (leaving this mess as-is) but eventually I fear the gasket that I can't get at will lead to a vacuum leak, so eventually it'll need to get swapped.

 

[infamousRNR]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]

any idea on where to get an OEM supercharger belt these days?


Supercharger Belt Toyota Part number: 00602-17620-026 is there a new number? or is this just simply discontinued?


-

 

[4Reak Show]

supercharger belt? | Toyota Tacoma Forum

Post #5 Dayco Dynaflex #610K4
Post #6 the generic sizing is 4PK-1575
Post #9 Part # PTR30-35040

[MENTION=271848]Voltan73[/MENTION] care to comment?

 

[Voltan73]

supercharger belt? | Toyota Tacoma Forum

Post #5 Dayco Dynaflex #610K4
Post #6 the generic sizing is 4PK-1575
Post #9 Part # PTR30-35040

[MENTION=271848]Voltan73[/MENTION] care to comment?

PTR30-35040 is the most current number I have. It is indeed discontinued, albeit I have one left in stock!
This is why I cringe when people put superchargers on their rigs...not much benefit, and replacement parts are very hard to get, and get discontinued quickly. If you need a nose-cone bearing? You're up sh!t creek.

 

[Speedy]

Such is life with 20+ year old vehicles. I'm finding more and more "stuff" getting hard to find for the o'l 4Runner. I think I have spare supercharger belt in the shop.

It should just come down to belt type and size so we should be able to find a suitable replacement to OEM.

What about this one, looks close? Amazon.com: Gates K040620 Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt : Automotive

Magnuson still produces the SC don't they? So belts/parts should be available.

 

[AntonioCm1983]

Install video by [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]

Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6 TRD Supercharger Installation - YouTube

Super nice write ups and very informative you rock

 

[AntonioCm1983]

Every post is just amazing super packed with information thanks SCRunner on point

Rebuild Post

In this post I will relay all information regarding rebuilding your supercharger and where to find the parts.

Does my SC need a rebuild? This questions is thrown around quite often and is very hard to determine without hearing it run or a full visual inspection. TRD recommends 30-60K oil change intervals and a full rebuild around 100k. This is true, but can vary a lot depending on the maintenance and use of the SC.

Will a nose cone rebuild/replacement be enough?Again this is hard to determine. In most cases you can get away with a nose cone replacement and be fine, but at around 100k I would look further into a full rebuild. The nose cone is important and often will leak oil through a failing seal causing the bearings to run dry and fail faster. This will often cause a lot of noise and a mess in your engine bay.

Replacing the coupler can help with performance and can cause issues with how the SC functions. A bad coupler causes slop in the connection between the nose shaft and the rotors. Any slack or slop will cause a lack of performance. Here is a video displaying a bad coupler.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Lsr3uPYIALI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Parts list:
-1 6303 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9868
-1 6204 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9836?
-2 6203 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9835
-2 Rear Needle Bearings (Purchased these from Rolling Performance, part number on box is F-65477.1 or 6002544) - These are currently on back order from most places but can be found on ebay or random parts suppliers. I got mine from here: http://spinningwheels-sc.com/eatonm90needlebearings.aspx and they can also be found on ebay: Error Page | eBay
-1 Supercharger Coupler - Don't use the cheap ebay ones, but go with rolling performance or the like: http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
-1 Viton Nose Seal (Rolling Performance) -http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
-2 4oz Bottles of AC Delco Supercharger Oil - Either Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Fluid...414611916&sr=8-1&keywords=gm+supercharger+oil or rolling performance: http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
-2 Rotor Pack Seals Jon Bond Performance, they are expensive https://jonbondperformance.com/index...646vvseh0c2e37 or I found some at Spinning Wheels SC. http://spinningwheels-sc.com/superchargersandmore.aspx They don't list them on their site, but call and ask, they are extremely nice and helpful. Even threw in a free nose cone seal when I ordered.
- 1 Tube of Permatex Red Gasket Maker - http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm or http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-5181...612195&sr=8-1&keywords=anaerobic+gasket+maker

List courtesy of [MENTION=58096]chris360hawks[/MENTION]

Those are the basic parts list most of us will need to rebuild both the 1st and 2nd gen supercharger. 1st gen's may require some gaskets for the rear inlet connections, but they should be fine.

For the black 2nd gen kits you can purchase a pre-rebuilt nose cone directly from Toyota (1st gen model has been discontinued). It will have all new bearings and seals and come with new oil, coupler and gasket maker. http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8881

IMO, it's not a very good deal unless you don't want to hassle with rebuilding your own. It's literally $50 in parts to rebuild the front nose cone and you can purchase a new shop press for less than the rebuilt kit from Toyota. By that rationale, you will be getting a free shop press by doing it yourself.

There is also a refresh kit that can be bought to replace the coupler and oil. Again not a very good deal, but not horrible. http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8080

Tools:
A shop press is very helpful for the rebuild and recommended if doing it at home. I got a 20 ton and it is perfect for pressing out the bearings and rotors. Enough power to press them out without straining itself, but not so much that it will shatter your parts to pieces. I went with this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-60603.html It has worked good so far and there are coupons for $150 all the time.

Sockets are useful to press the bearings and rotors out. A basic set should be enough with maybe one larger socket to use on the bearings. My 35mm is just a little too big to fit on the outer race of the front nose cone bearings.

Razor blade to remove the excess glue from the rotor pack seals and to cut the rotor pack seals.

Screwdrivers to help remove the seals and separate the nose cone and rotor pack from the housing.

An impact wrench is very nice to have when removing the 8 bolts holding the nose cone on and removing the nose cone nut.


How To's:
1st gen rebuild courtesy of [MENTION=58096]chris360hawks[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-top-eaton-m62-complete-rebuild-write-up.html

1st gen rebuild courtesy of [MENTION=45449]coinball[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/119634-project-put-blower-my-hoopty-go.html

Nose cone rebuild courtesy of [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116833-1st-gen-supercharger-nose-cone-rebuild-mod.html

2nd gen nose cone rebuild http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195191

2nd gen rebuild (with no press) http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/267610-3-4l-trd-supercharger-rebuild.html

These write ups should cover most of what you will encounter. I am currently rebuilding a 1st gen unit and will be posting my own write up/tips as I finish up.

 

[4runnerfiend]

High flow injectors with stock fuel pump

Anyone know if I run OEM fuel pump with high flow Supra injectors? Was going to order the Walbro 190 but it seems to be out of stock everywhere.

Trying to find an alternate, any suggestions?

 

[4Reak Show]

Anyone know if I run OEM fuel pump with high flow Supra injectors? Was going to order the Walbro 190 but it seems to be out of stock everywhere.

Trying to find an alternate, any suggestions?

You can run whatever you want. The results may not be as you’re expecting. This horse has been beaten to death on this thread.

The stock PCM will do everything in its power to maintain proper air/fuel ratio (AFR). So even with bigger injectors, it will just pull back the fuel to get the AFR back into its desired range based on various inputs, predominantly including the AFR sensor/O2 sensor depending on year.

The only caveat to this is during the heavy load situations referred to as open loop. During OL the PCM ignores the AFR and will supply additional fuel to get the job done. So the bigger injectors will do something in this mode. Issue here is that that range of operation is a rare range. Something like throttle over 80% and/or prior to a fully warmed engine.

So basically, bigger injectors on their own will give SOME results, but it won’t be across the board since the PCM’s main job is to maintain AFR as often as possible. I think [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] did the Supra injectors alone. Maybe he can chime in.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You can run whatever you want. The results may not be as you’re expecting. This horse has been beaten to death on this thread.

The stock PCM will do everything in its power to maintain proper air/fuel ratio (AFR). So even with bigger injectors, it will just pull back the fuel to get the AFR back into its desired range based on various inputs, predominantly including the AFR sensor/O2 sensor depending on year.

The only caveat to this is during the heavy load situations referred to as open loop. During OL the PCM ignores the AFR and will supply additional fuel to get the job done. So the bigger injectors will do something in this mode. Issue here is that that range of operation is a rare range. Something like throttle over 80% and/or prior to a fully warmed engine.

So basically, bigger injectors on their own will give SOME results, but it won’t be across the board since the PCM’s main job is to maintain AFR as often as possible. I think [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] did the Supra injectors alone. Maybe he can chime in.

Yes I've seen a few post on here as well as on other places like TacomaWorld and CustomTacos about only doing injectors and it gets the open loop fuel pretty darn close to perfect at sea level. Getting to open loop is another story like you said. The torque curve will flatline until you get to 70% throttle or over 4500ish RPM and then you'll get a large boost in power when it runs a more rich AFR. I added a methanol injector before I tuned it and that's exactly how it behaved. I did notice at times under moderate throttle it would dip down to 13.7 AFR or so in closed loop but if I sustained that for more than a few seconds it'd take fuel out to compensate.

For fuel pump, any one will do really. AEM pumps also work but may not be plug and play. I have a used EVO IX pump in mine, $20 find off a forum.

 

[4runnerfiend]

thanks guys! Good to know I can run the stock pump for the time being. I want to eliminate the possibility of a bad injector so will replace with the supra ones I've already invested in.

Starting to wrap my head around what the ecu does to AF ratio and what it all means for the supercharger set up. at this point I'm hoping for plug and play as the parts that are needed to change AF ratio and timing are pretty expensive.

In the mean time, I've got the rebuild, mostly done. Needle bearings are pressed in and the nose cone is done, just need to torque the bolt down.
there is a very slight click when I turn the pully.. hopefully not a problem. other than that it is tight!
Looks and sounds like the rotors are contacting a bit to the front and rear of the housing. hopefully it will be better once it is all buttoned back up. I'm not in the market for a full rebuild at this time.

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[MarkamisPrime]

Anyone know if I run OEM fuel pump with high flow Supra injectors? Was going to order the Walbro 190 but it seems to be out of stock everywhere.

Trying to find an alternate, any suggestions?

I’ve been running the stock pump and Supra injections for two years now. Zero issues
And if you have been running the SC with stock injectors.
You will notice the night and day difference with the new injectors on a full throttle pull only just like [MENTION=15034]4reak[/MENTION]show said in a fancy way.
Normal drivability stays exactly the same.
My cousin [MENTION=71738]Smog-guy707[/MENTION] just made a believer out of a local guy who has his serious doubts but now is very happy he did it.