The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[gamefreakgc]

thanks guys! Good to know I can run the stock pump for the time being. I want to eliminate the possibility of a bad injector so will replace with the supra ones I've already invested in.

Starting to wrap my head around what the ecu does to AF ratio and what it all means for the supercharger set up. at this point I'm hoping for plug and play as the parts that are needed to change AF ratio and timing are pretty expensive.

In the mean time, I've got the rebuild, mostly done. Needle bearings are pressed in and the nose cone is done, just need to torque the bolt down.
there is a very slight click when I turn the pully.. hopefully not a problem. other than that it is tight!
Looks and sounds like the rotors are contacting a bit to the front and rear of the housing. hopefully it will be better once it is all buttoned back up. I'm not in the market for a full rebuild at this time.

I will warn you, once you start considering creating a custom tune there is no light at the end of the tunnel! I'm 5 years into my engine build and I'm still tweaking things, adding this, improving that. Of course that's half the fun and my engine absolutely rips but it can be daunting at times. I recommend for now just drive as-is with the new injectors and just go have a blast whipping donuts in dirt lots and screaming down freeway onramps. I think the onramps is my favorite part.

I do see what you mean about the rotors contacting just a smidge on the housing and the rotor plate. It almost looks like there has been a foreign contaminant like grains of sand that passed through the rotors creating those score marks. Putting in fresh bearings with no play will go a long way from keeping that from getting worse so you're already way ahead. It may be worth your time in a year or two to open it back up and see if it is any worse (you have photos to compare to) and if the rotor bearings will need to be done. They are very involved and I'm not aware of any DIY'ers that have done that successfully though so it would probably be done by a shop. Thankfully these superchargers are well built and can take a lot of abuse before they cause any issues.

 

[4runnerfiend]

I’ve been running the stock pump and Supra injections for two years now. Zero issues
And if you have been running the SC with stock injectors.
You will notice the night and day difference with the new injectors on a full throttle pull only just like [MENTION=15034]4reak[/MENTION]show said in a fancy way.
Normal drivability stays exactly the same.
My cousin [MENTION=71738]Smog-guy707[/MENTION] just made a believer out of a local guy who has his serious doubts but now is very happy he did it.

sweet thanks! can't wait to floor it

 

[4runnerfiend]

Gates belt

for those looking for a belt option. its not OEM but... Oriliey's auto parts had this one come up for a 99 4runner supercharger belt. it is also on Amazon and a guy reviewed that it worked great on his Tacoma with a SC.

appears to be the same length and width as the Toyota one I got with my used SC.
it was 20 bucks



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[MarkamisPrime]

I got my belt from rock auto.
Continental brand
$10 works perfect.
Rock auto has a few different options.

 

[bmwahba46]

Can someone give me a cliffnotes answer:

Can I run the TRD supercharger in stock form, no additional fuel mods like the 7th injector and expect it to be reliable? I live in Florida where it is hot, and I do long cross-country trips in my rig. I just want pure reliability.

Or should I pony up and get the 7th injector kit or Meth kit?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Can someone give me a cliffnotes answer:

Can I run the TRD supercharger in stock form, no additional fuel mods like the 7th injector and expect it to be reliable? I live in Florida where it is hot, and I do long cross-country trips in my rig. I just want pure reliability.

Or should I pony up and get the 7th injector kit or Meth kit?

You are good without the extra add-ons. Toyota sold it from the dealership as just a bolt-on supercharger. There is a slight risk of burning the exhaust valves if you really get on it all the time over a long period of time, say 50K-100K miles (and I mean ALL the time) and you'll notice increased wear on your engine oil and transmission fluid that you'll have to change more frequently but other than that you can have fun.

I also live in a hot climate, today it's supposed to be 105. If you find the engine "pings" and makes a metallic grinding sort of noise at between 2000-2700 RPM, try using two step colder plugs like the DENSO Iridium IK22's. These plugs reduce the temperature of the spark plugs resulting in less pinging.

The water methanol kit alone isn't all that great. I tried it on a stock supercharger and was underwhelmed.

 

[bmwahba46]

You are good without the extra add-ons. Toyota sold it from the dealership as just a bolt-on supercharger. There is a slight risk of burning the exhaust valves if you really get on it all the time over a long period of time, say 50K-100K miles (and I mean ALL the time) and you'll notice increased wear on your engine oil and transmission fluid that you'll have to change more frequently but other than that you can have fun.

I also live in a hot climate, today it's supposed to be 105. If you find the engine "pings" and makes a metallic grinding sort of noise at between 2000-2700 RPM, try using two step colder plugs like the DENSO Iridium IK22's. These plugs reduce the temperature of the spark plugs resulting in less pinging.

The water methanol kit alone isn't all that great. I tried it on a stock supercharger and was underwhelmed.

Good to note - that exactly is what I will be doing. Thanks for that re-assurance.

Is there a reputable person or place who does full rebuilds on these 2nd gen superchargers? Would gladly pay a forum member on here who has experience doing it, or if anyone knows of the best place to send it to. I want to refresh the nose cone and it's bearings along with the rear rotor bearings.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Good to note - that exactly is what I will be doing. Thanks for that re-assurance.

Is there a reputable person or place who does full rebuilds on these 2nd gen superchargers? Would gladly pay a forum member on here who has experience doing it, or if anyone knows of the best place to send it to. I want to refresh the nose cone and it's bearings along with the rear rotor bearings.

SC4Runner I think was the one who used to do it but I don't think he does it anymore. I have heard from that Jon Bond Performance as well as The High Speed Lab has a several month turnaround time.

If you have some basic tools and a bit of time on your hands, you could try to do it yourself. It's worth also watching CL, Ebay or wherever for part #PTR29-35042. That's the number for the nose cone replacement that Toyota used to sell. It's literally a bolt on rebuild as it replaces the whole nose cone. I bought one off a guy after they discontinued them for $200. Might get lucky. Don't pay $600+ for it though.

 

[4runnerfiend]

finished Install and I've got some bad noise going on. I'm not sure if it is ping or the SC itself. pretty much all places in the RPM's. seems like sometimes it is happy if I am easy on it and gradually get on the throttle. Running IK22, supra injectors, stock fuel pump,


It's louder than the wine. I've got some guy on FB telling me I cannot run the supra injectors with out a tune.... so much conflicting information out there.

Also the SC is making same noise that it was making before I rebuilt it. Not sure if that is the source or not.

EDIT: Now I'm thinking that it is the SC itself. I got this used. rebuilt the nose cone and needle bearings but is is making the same sound that it was before. Maybe PO took apart the rotors not knowing and put them back incorrect..? IDK

 

[infamousRNR]

Good to note - that exactly is what I will be doing. Thanks for that re-assurance.

Is there a reputable person or place who does full rebuilds on these 2nd gen superchargers? Would gladly pay a forum member on here who has experience doing it, or if anyone knows of the best place to send it to. I want to refresh the nose cone and it's bearings along with the rear rotor bearings.

do you just want to rebuild the nose cone?..

we have a video on that.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/56KhWJPUevk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


.

 

[infamousRNR]

Can someone give me a cliffnotes answer:

Can I run the TRD supercharger in stock form, no additional fuel mods like the 7th injector and expect it to be reliable? I live in Florida where it is hot, and I do long cross-country trips in my rig. I just want pure reliability.

Or should I pony up and get the 7th injector kit or Meth kit?

Yes, you can run the supercharger in stock form...

I've been doing it for almost 3 years, when I notice it pinging, I either let off the gas to get the engine in different power band or step on the gas like a bat out of hell... either way, just be aware of where your ping is and try to not have it ping. it's difficult when the GF drives the truck because they just use the gas peddle and forget the rest.

high gear, low RPM, low boost seems to be when I get pinging. as soon as you recognize it, just adjust your throttle more or less to avoid the ping.

in a perfect world, you could have more control over the air/fuel ratio with a computer, or meth injection. both are good options and in the end, a solid tune wold tie up the loose ends not covered by the programed stock fuel map.





.

 

[bmwahba46]

do you just want to rebuild the nose cone?..

we have a video on that.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/56KhWJPUevk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


.

Thanks for the info - yes I want to rebuild the nose as well as pull the rotor and replace the bearings in the back. So trying to weigh options, there's probably about 100k miles on this SC I picked up since the last rebuild.

I'd love to send it somewhere that's got a quick turnaround, or if anyone wants to do it hit me up! layball:

 

[4runnerfiend]

Is the split second ft1 and urd fuel and timing calibrator same thing?
Look identical but different prices

I'm looking into getting one of these.. was thinking of getting the MAP3 ECU but I want as simple as i can get. Been reading posts and seems like the the MAP3 is more involved and more problematic.. or just tough to get right.

Not looking to get every HP out just want to get rid of ping and be able to enjoy the power from the SC.

on another note. I've got my ARF set up and Torque app with the timing, ST and LT fuel trims. intake temps. engine load ext set up.

Very interesting to see the ECU work and match it up to all everyone talks about.
Feel the power at open loop and watch the AFR drop to 10-11 (which I understand is rich), but definitely seeing and feeling the switch over.

Also see it when i'm at 2200 k and slowly adding throttle it pull the timing back to 12 and eventually drop the AFR to 13.5 ish

The ECU seems to be slow on making adjustments to throttle/boost.

 

[wrench.n.wheel]

I’ve been running the stock pump and Supra injections for two years now. Zero issues
And if you have been running the SC with stock injectors.
You will notice the night and day difference with the new injectors on a full throttle pull only just like [MENTION=15034]4reak[/MENTION]show said in a fancy way.
Normal drivability stays exactly the same.
My cousin [MENTION=71738]Smog-guy707[/MENTION] just made a believer out of a local guy who has his serious doubts but now is very happy he did it.

this is good to know as I have been debating to install my supra injectors for a while with stock fuel pump, but I am also running a MAPECU piggyback to help the AFRs in closed loop.

Wonder how it will be if a go down a size in pulley as well. (will it balance it all out)

 

[gamefreakgc]

this is good to know as I have been debating to install my supra injectors for a while with stock fuel pump, but I am also running a MAPECU piggyback to help the AFRs in closed loop.

Wonder how it will be if a go down a size in pulley as well. (will it balance it all out)

You can drive with the Supra injectors and the 2.37" pulley just fine. It really wakes it up. I see you are in Sacramento like me. That means if you drop a pulley size to the 2.2" pulley you're going to start going down the rabbit hole - and it never stops. You can get away with it but you'll start to ping when driving at highway speeds up the hill, especially when driving on I-80 towards Auburn. That drive is how I test my tune and figure out how much timing to pull, it always will ping on that drive if I don't have it right.

The 2.1" is even worse. A tune with timing retard is a must. Nice bump in power though! If you ever want to stop by and chat all things superchargers hit me up with a PM. I'm just down the road in Citrus Heights and I've either researched or done almost every power modification for a supercharged 5VZ-FE. Some have worked out great. Some, not so much. I'm on my second engine and needing a second rebuild on my supercharger soon.

 

[wrench.n.wheel]

You can drive with the Supra injectors and the 2.37" pulley just fine. It really wakes it up. I see you are in Sacramento like me. That means if you drop a pulley size to the 2.2" pulley you're going to start going down the rabbit hole - and it never stops. You can get away with it but you'll start to ping when driving at highway speeds up the hill, especially when driving on I-80 towards Auburn. That drive is how I test my tune and figure out how much timing to pull, it always will ping on that drive if I don't have it right.

The 2.1" is even worse. A tune with timing retard is a must. Nice bump in power though! If you ever want to stop by and chat all things superchargers hit me up with a PM. I'm just down the road in Citrus Heights and I've either researched or done almost every power modification for a supercharged 5VZ-FE. Some have worked out great. Some, not so much. I'm on my second engine and needing a second rebuild on my supercharger soon.

I will def give you a call once i get that all installed. Hopefully you can help me fine tune the piggyback.

we've spoken before over the phone, i will send you a text!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Is the split second ft1 and urd fuel and timing calibrator same thing?
Look identical but different prices

I'm looking into getting one of these.. was thinking of getting the MAP3 ECU but I want as simple as i can get. Been reading posts and seems like the the MAP3 is more involved and more problematic.. or just tough to get right.

Not looking to get every HP out just want to get rid of ping and be able to enjoy the power from the SC.

on another note. I've got my ARF set up and Torque app with the timing, ST and LT fuel trims. intake temps. engine load ext set up.

Very interesting to see the ECU work and match it up to all everyone talks about.
Feel the power at open loop and watch the AFR drop to 10-11 (which I understand is rich), but definitely seeing and feeling the switch over.

Also see it when i'm at 2200 k and slowly adding throttle it pull the timing back to 12 and eventually drop the AFR to 13.5 ish

The ECU seems to be slow on making adjustments to throttle/boost.

So glad to see your 4Runner running good! For a minute there I thought it was a lost cause. Pesky leaks!

The MAP3ECU is a solid platform and if I were to buy a piggyback today, that's the one I would get. However the wiring on it is much more complex and will require a full ECU wiring diagram for your specific year. It took me a few days to wire in my AEM FIC 6 which works in a similar manner. The URD units only have around 6 wires if I remember correctly but not all units have closed loop tuning. You'll spend about 90-99% of your driving in closed loop, or at least I do. I rarely have the space to floor it in CA traffic.

Honestly, 13.5 AFR at closed loops is pretty darn good. At full throttle or 7 PSI, you want to be at 11.5-11.8. At vacuum or 0 PSI, you want to be at 14.7. That means at 3.5 PSI, you want 13.2. At 5 PSI, you want to be around 12.5 AFR, etc. It should be a linear increase with boost. You currently have a better 'tune' that some owners who have a custom tune with a piggyback.

Weight reduction has a very large impact on acceleration g's as well. If you find yourself bored, take off your spare tire, empty the rear cargo area of everything and drive solo and take a fuel pulls. It'll be quicker.

 

[busmup808]

Cleaned up the charger and getting ready to install it when I get my truck back from the shop. Also gathering all my parts for the SC from TOYOTA & URD

Before and after

After

GENUINE TOYOTA PARTS & URD PARTS

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[G_Raw]

Cleaned up the charger and getting ready to install it when I get my truck back from the shop. Also gathering all my parts for the SC from TOYOTA & URD


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Jealous you get one TRD SC...I'm holding out for one myself.

 

[busmup808]

Jealous you get one TRD SC...I'm holding out for one myself.

Got it a while ago. Been waiting for my truck to come home and get on in. I wasn’t looking for it and my friend who is working on my truck ask me if I wanted it. I told him no at 1st, but when I went to the shop and he told me how much he wanted for it I bought it.


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