The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

URD 6 Injectors Fuel/Timing Upgrade Wiring Diagram?

I've got all the upgrades installed but the tuning kit and I haven't been able to find the wiring instructions anywhere on the internet. I've messaged URD to see if I could get some vehicle-specific instructions that they provide to no avail. Does anyone have a copy of the moduel's wiring diagram for a 1998 4runner?
 
New Magnuson supercharger

I recently bought a Magnuson supercharger beginning of January this year and I noticed it had a press fit pulley unlike the normal slip fit pulley. Apparently from what URD said due to parts shortages Magnuson did a limited run of 3.4 super chargers with press fit pulleys. Does anyone else know where might sell smaller press fit pulleys for the 3.4 super chargers? URD said because of the limited amount of these super chargers with this type of pulley they won’t produce a press fit pulley as it will not be cost effective.
 
I recently bought a Magnuson supercharger beginning of January this year and I noticed it had a press fit pulley unlike the normal slip fit pulley. Apparently from what URD said due to parts shortages Magnuson did a limited run of 3.4 super chargers with press fit pulleys. Does anyone else know where might sell smaller press fit pulleys for the 3.4 super chargers? URD said because of the limited amount of these super chargers with this type of pulley they won’t produce a press fit pulley as it will not be cost effective.

There are no off-the-shelf press fit supercharger pulley made for the TRD/Magnuson 5VZ superchargers.

Try contacting pulleyboys.com as they make custom supercharger pulleys. I would call them if you can as it'll be a little complicated to explain as they will probably come back with "TRD superchargers have keyed pulleys and we already sell those". They might ask for the shaft diameter which I don't have off-hand. Also custom = $$$
 
So my 4Runner is 20 years old this year and I've had the supercharger installed for 15 of those. Supercharger now has about 100,000 miles on it.

I was thinking of snagging a nose drive to keep on the shelf as a spare for when I needed it. Looks like they're $700 now??? That seems kinda nuts. What are you guys doing?

The truck's getting old enough that I'm starting to worry about finding parts when/if I need them.

I do realize I can rebuild the nose drive, but having a spare sounded like a good idea.
 
So my 4Runner is 20 years old this year and I've had the supercharger installed for 15 of those. Supercharger now has about 100,000 miles on it.

I was thinking of snagging a nose drive to keep on the shelf as a spare for when I needed it. Looks like they're $700 now??? That seems kinda nuts. What are you guys doing?

The truck's getting old enough that I'm starting to worry about finding parts when/if I need them.

I do realize I can rebuild the nose drive, but having a spare sounded like a good idea.

I would be interested if you can find one for a decent price. My last nose cone change was 8 years and 60K miles ago and it's already starting to rattle again but I've not been kind to it. When I bought the complete nose cone from a guy who had it stored in his garage the seal was bad out of the box and I had to replace it immediately so perhaps buying old stock isn't the best idea. I don't think time is kind to those rubber seals.
 
Mine's not rattling or anything I'm just trying to be pre-emptive. $700 is a lot for this. I'm surprised with Magnuson making these SC again it's not an available part.
 
Thinking about spraying soon(meth etc).
I noticed some links on 1st pages for yt thread re: devils own and cooling mist.
Now that it been 10 years since that thread has been touched...
Is there an updated conversation?
Consensus per set up/products?
Urd offers aem products...$450 ish no tank.
Thanks for any feedback.
 
Thinking about spraying soon(meth etc).
I noticed some links on 1st pages for yt thread re: devils own and cooling mist.
Now that it been 10 years since that thread has been touched...
Is there an updated conversation?
Consensus per set up/products?
Urd offers aem products...$450 ish no tank.
Thanks for any feedback.

I have a snow performance MAP sensor progressive kit. Their newer one is good but before you drop $100's on it a few things to clear up:

1. The kits claim massive HP increases. This is only possible through tuned timing advance which we cannot do, which means it doesn't make any HP hardly at all.

2. Because our superchargers will build max boost at 2500 RPM or lower these kits are very, very hard to tune. More often than not you'll find it injecting when you don't want it and losing power since the water injected suppresses the flame kernel at low RPM (no surprise).

3. If you are not running a 2.2" or 2.1" pulley methanol is not needed. It doesn't make enough boost to warrant the engine insurance that 100+ octane provides. The 7th injector or similar kit will provide enough heat dissipation to be adequate for the stock supercharger pulley.

I would recommend any progressive controller kit, the on/off kits are not very good. Even better if you can control it based off engine RPM or injector duty cycle, you don't want it turning on below 3000 RPM ever. If I were to rebuild my engine again I'd still have methanol but only for engine insurance to protect against knock at high RPM and high boost situations.
 
Thinking about spraying soon(meth etc).
I noticed some links on 1st pages for yt thread re: devils own and cooling mist.
Now that it been 10 years since that thread has been touched...
Is there an updated conversation?
Consensus per set up/products?
Urd offers aem products...$450 ish no tank.
Thanks for any feedback.

I have a couple of videos of my setup on my YT channel: Speedy's Garage - YouTube I've had it for a few years now and with my setup it has worked great, allowed me to go down to a 2.1" pulley, zero out any timing pulled in my piggy back, and pretty much turn off the 7th injector.

I have mine setup to come on at about 6psi and ramp to 100% spray by 14psi which my truck never hits obviously. This helps with the lower rpm bogging from too much spray.

The power is gained by allowing the factory computer to add in the normal amount of timing which on mine I see like 19-21 deg at WOT and full RPM and it hauls the mail.
 
Thx for the 411.
I have 6 370(if remember) injectors and 2.2.
So ya looking for safer power/knock supression/timing attributes.
Using piggyback ftc1 so I'm guessing I'd need the aem or standalone to properly control misting.

I'll check out ur vids soon.
 
Got some questions about the rotor pack. Searched without much luck .

1. Can anyone share pictures of the rotor pack with the rotors removed? Curious to see what the surface the rotors spin on looks like.
2. Is any Eaton M62 rotor pack able to be swapped in?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
I have a used nose cone if you are interested.
I used to have a 2000 4runner, supercharger, headers, 7th injector, etc. Totaled it around 2010 and now have Lexus GX470. All stock.
I'm guessing the nose cone has about 60,000 miles on it. I also have 2 bearings that go on the other end of the supercharger.

Let me know if you're interested.
KODA4
 
Got some questions about the rotor pack. Searched without much luck .

1. Can anyone share pictures of the rotor pack with the rotors removed? Curious to see what the surface the rotors spin on looks like.
2. Is any Eaton M62 rotor pack able to be swapped in?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Nobody bit on your questions so I'll chime in.

1. There are not many beyond repair shops that have removed the rotors from the rotor pack. Those that have were not able to restore their supercharger to working condition as the rotors are clocked and the specs are not available, meaning once they are removed they will have play when reassembled. Replacing the rotor bearings (besides the rear needle bearings in the back of the housing) is not recommended and must be done by a professional shop.

2. If this were a 1st gen or the grey supercharger I would say possibly though I have not heard of any. The 1st gen is an MP62 that has all sorts of bits and intakes bolted onto it. The 2nd gen black units are almost definitely a no as they were designed only to fit on the 5VZ-FE engine. If you do have the 1st gen the biggest issue you'll run into is the length of the snout. Too long and your belts will wear down very fast. Too short and the pulley might dig into the timing belt cover and jump off the pulley. Also, our pulley shafts are keyed where most M62's are press-on so the pulley would not be interchangeable and you'd be at the mercy of whatever sizes come on the replacement snout.

Hope this helps. If you find a substitute please be sure to post up with a photo or two and how it worked out.
 
Replacing knock sensors - real or fake?

I recently replaced my knock sensors with some Denso OEM ones, but upon comparing them to the ones that came out of my truck, we noticed some obvious differences.

let me know what you guys think was going on here?...



the one on the right (the knock sensor with the hole in it) is the NEW Denso sensor.


.
 

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I recently replaced my knock sensors with some Denso OEM ones, but upon comparing them to the ones that came out of my truck, we noticed some obvious differences.

let me know what you guys think was going on here?...



the one on the right (the knock sensor with the hole in it) is the NEW Denso sensor.


.

Toyota originally used Matsushiita then switched to Denso, as the matsu sensors weren't nearly as reliable and didn't put out as clean as a waveform. Absolutely use Denso - i went through sets of both when chasing my gremlin and comparing the two through an oscilloscope showed night and day differences. When hooked up the Matsu sensors produce roughly the right shape and kHz but was very messy - still, one would very easily look at it and go "close enough, right?" - but in comparison the Denso sensors produced one nearly identical to what's shown in the FSM and was MUCH more stable. If the waveform is pretty much anything less than perfect the ECU will see it the same as the sensor failing to function and will throw a CEL.
 
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So i've noticed my S/C whine is not as loud as others I have seen and wondering if mine needs a rebuild or if there is a plugged port that I'm unaware of. I don't feel like i'm getting all the power out of my supercharger if that makes sense. Its the first gen S/C
 
So i've noticed my S/C whine is not as loud as others I have seen and wondering if mine needs a rebuild or if there is a plugged port that I'm unaware of. I don't feel like i'm getting all the power out of my supercharger if that makes sense. Its the first gen S/C

Quite the opposite, you have what are called silencer ports on either side of the outlet port on the rotor housing. Toyota engineers added these two ports to cancel out the sound and made the operation of the supercharger much quieter. Pretty much the same output as the black second gen chargers, although the second gens have a smoother, more aerodynamic intake that flows better.

I've heard of attempts to plug these ports but also heard of said attempts falling out and being thrown into a valve and doing some really bad stuff. If it really bothers you having a stealthy supercharged engine then see if someone will trade ya. The first gen chargers can be ported for more power than a black second gen.
 
Failed SMOG - tech said D-425-15 doesn't apply

I posted this on an old SMOG thread but figured this is probably the better place.

need a little help here.
I have a 2nd gen TRD supercharger on my 2002 SR5 and went to get a smog test done for my registration renewal.
I went to the same place 2 years ago and it passed but this year the tech (same tech) stated that the D-425-15 EO does not apply to my 4runner and it only applies to 2003-2004 4runners. I brought up the fact that my engine is 3.4L and that it wasn't an issue last time. He stated that the 3.4L only applies to trucks and my 4runner is not a truck. He also stated that EO's change all the time and that it could have been updated but as he reads it, it doesn't apply to my 4runner and he doesn't remember what happened last time.

can I take it to another shop? he said I could but I would get them in trouble if they passed it because he has already said it doesn't pass. He said my only option is to contact a SMOG Referee or take the supercharger off.

any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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