DJRodriguez88
New member
Does anyone use any kind of rubber conditioner or some other substance on their cv boots to make sure they stay healthy for a longer time?
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
For what it worth I've been doing BJ's since before YouTube and net was invented.
I'm old.DJRodriguez88
New member
For what it worth I've been doing BJ's since before YouTube and net was invented.
Let's call it "experienced" =]
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Haven't heard of it being done.
01 bought @ 198k mi original boots/shafts. Did 2.5-3" lift with diff drop 10k mi give or take one of the four broke.
Boom_ROASTED
Member
so I'm rebooting my steering rack. Driver side boot was torn but no issues with the steering at all.
I can tell my inner tie rod on the driver side seems a little more stiff than the passenger side. Can I just slop some more grease on and reboot? Is there anything I can look for that would indicate things will go south quick? There's no roughness or looseness at all, just slightly harder to move around compared to the passenger side.
also, because the boot was torn there's a bit of a mess in the driver side end. Any reason I can't spray the crud out with some brakeleen?
I can tell my inner tie rod on the driver side seems a little more stiff than the passenger side. Can I just slop some more grease on and reboot? Is there anything I can look for that would indicate things will go south quick? There's no roughness or looseness at all, just slightly harder to move around compared to the passenger side.
also, because the boot was torn there's a bit of a mess in the driver side end. Any reason I can't spray the crud out with some brakeleen?
IMO if I was doing all this work I'd just replace all my tie rods, unless they have just been done, if they have an unknown or a known high miles why waste all ur time and effort...
octanejunkie
Elite Member
If the boot(a) are torn, replace them. You don't want debris getting into the rack.
If the inner tie rods are bad, replace them. Loose doesn't mean bad, check for play and replace if out of spec. I usually replace them in pairs vs each if one is bad.
JM2C
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Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
The good tie rod is tight so the one with more play is the suspect one, if anything. If you get your hands on a new inner or outer, that’s the first thing you’ll notice. They almost don’t move without significant pressure being applied.
wtfdissux2
Junior Member
Protune rear arms
Has anyone used protune rear adjustable upper and lower arms with adjustable panhard bar? About to lift it after putting it off for last 5 years and now since I need to replace a lot of bushings anyways figured might as well
Has anyone used protune rear adjustable upper and lower arms with adjustable panhard bar? About to lift it after putting it off for last 5 years and now since I need to replace a lot of bushings anyways figured might as well
If you are talking about these: Upper & Lower & Track Bar Arm For 2-4" Lift Kit 4-Runner FJ Cruiser 03-09 I would be very skeptical about the fitment as they don't list what years of 4Runner they fit.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Don't change the trailing arms for adjustable ones, there really isn't much adjustment possible given the clearances of everything back there.
I went with Rokman lower trailing arms, personally, beefy with new bushings. The upgraded, fixed length arms Sonoran Steel sells are nice too. The stock uppers are also pretty good, replacing the bushings is a chore.
I've always favored the eimkeith PCK over adjustable panhard bars, personally - weld it one and done. One less thing to come loose or unadjusted.
JM2C
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
But what about an adjustable panhard bar with the PCK?
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wtfdissux2
Junior Member
The uppers are both bent and all bushings about shot figured adjustable even threaded all the way in would be more solid than OEM.
also wanted to retain the original pinion angle for rear diff when I drop it 4inches, also the reason for the adjustable panhard.
If could find a beefy set of 4 arms and the adj panhard would likely go that route since it is also my DD and budget is a concern the set I was looking at made good sense but havent heard of the brand before.:shrug:
wtfdissux2
Junior Member
similiar but the ones I saw were a different part number and did list 96-02. dont matter though since they went from 6 in stock to sold out the day I posted the question.
Strange. That’s the only part number they show on their website for 4Runners.
96 ToyRunner
Member
Changed coolant temp sensor and burped coolant at 369,042
wtfdissux2
Junior Member
this is the one I was looking at Amazon.com: Protune Suspension Rear Upper & Lower Track Bar Control Arm 2-4" Lift Kit fits for Toyota 4-Runner 1996-2002 : Automotive
am thinking about ordering a single upper and lower OEM style for the 3rd and 4th gen at work tomorroe just to see what the dimensions look like. I am a manager in a chain garage so can simply send em back after my "research" wish any of my vendors had them since the discount is pretty hard to pass up
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Depends on the reason the airbag light is on. Could be a faulty control module or it could be any of the airbags resistance is out of spec or it could be a previous crash event stored. You need to flash the airbag module to read the fault code.
wtfdissux2
Junior Member
back to searching for parts and found a new question what is the frame RZN180/VZN180 designation? What are the differences? is it possible it is RWD and if so was not aware the rear suspension was different with 4WD vs. RWD?
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