The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Bad Luck]

has our old friend tim the toolman posted a picture of what he means when he talks about using a screwdriver for the rear brake drum return spring? i just had a rear brake drum return spring make me look like a fool for the better part of 2 hours. inshallah i curse the folks at toyota and may they never have a cold beer again in their lives :hunter:

Maybe this? How to Adjust Rear Drum Brake Shoes to Remove Drums - YouTube

 

[beefsix]

Maybe this? How to Adjust Rear Drum Brake Shoes to Remove Drums - YouTube

No, I'm talking about this comment:

For getting the return spring back on, I have found that spring tool in the OTC kit to not work all that great. The technique that I have found that works better is I use a medium size phillips head screwdriver. I hook the one spring end onto the brake shoe behind the parking brake lever first. Then I put the other spring end onto the shaft of the screwdriver. I place the tip of the screwdriver into the slot of the the opposing brake shoe and then lever the screwdriver towards the shoe expanding the spring. The spring will slide down the shaft and you can help it along with your free hand. Once you get the spring end into the brake shoe hole and it's partially hooked, you can grab a flat head screwdriver or other tool to push the spring end further into place while getting the phillips head screwdriver out of the way. I hope that makes sense. With this technique, you eliminate any potential damage to the new brake shoe and I've found it much easier to get the spring in place using this technique.

on this video: Drum Brake Shoe Replacement - YouTube

 

[bmason8159]

I recently installed a dobinson's lift on my 2000 sr5 5 speed. Inner boots on both CV axels started leaking (boots aren't ripped, I see grease spraying out but nothing is torn). I've been limping along like this. However I've noticed some problems. When going slow and taking tight turns (parking lot) I hear/feel a clicking noise in the steering wheel. Also, after shifting into 2nd or 3rd then going heavier on the throttle I get some clunking sounds. This leads me to believe the cv axels need some love after the lift - which seems par for the course. I've searched online and can't see to get a straight answer on the best way to proceed from here.

Question: Should I replace the cv axels entirely (ouch $$$)? Can I buy a "rebuild kit" and service my OEM ones with 180k miles on them? Can I simply reboot and repack grease or does the clicking and clunking indicate they are past that? Its not obvious to me when a replacement, rebuild, or reboot makes the most sense. I'll be doing the wrenching myself and I'm not afraid of the labor.

I've read online cheaper aftermarket CV aren't very good. I can't swing $2k for rcv axels. Honesty, the cost of OEM one's are scaring me at +$600 for a set, but I'll stomach it if that's what's absolutely required. Any and all advice is welcome at this point. Thank you.

Just get a set from Napa or orileys you would be a fool to go oem of rcv

 

[bmason8159]

I have read that delayed shifting when the engine is cold is fairly normal on 3rd gens and I was wanting to know if that includes what I experienced:

auto trans 02 4runner 4wd with 156k

Usually when I start driving, I make my way through town first and cruise at low speeds. Today I popped on a highway road that goes from 35mph to 55mph pretty quickly. While in 2nd gear at about 30mph, I experienced pronounced delayed shifting and my rpms made it into the 2k range with very little acceleration (like slow creeping towards 35mph). Clearly not shifting easily out of 2nd. I didn't want to rev it past 2k rpms so I just pulled onto a side road and did a u-turn. After that, all shifting was totally normal and barely noticeable and rpms were normal.

I went to a few stores and shifting was fine for the rest of the outing. Prior to this, I just get more noticeable shifts from 1st to 2nd (vs almost undetectable shifts) on occasion, but nothing crazy.

When I first got it (less than 2k miles ago), the fluid was old and a little burnt. I was planning on replacing the radiator this week but it has also been flushed already. Is my transmission dying or does stuff like that happen? Sorry for length.

Dude these gears are meant to be reved out. You can get to 60 mph in second gear. The engine doesn’t even redline until 5500 rpms. Stop being a sissy and give her some F’ing corn

 

[cl4Rk]

I have read that delayed shifting when the engine is cold is fairly normal on 3rd gens and I was wanting to know if that includes what I experienced:

auto trans 02 4runner 4wd with 156k

Usually when I start driving, I make my way through town first and cruise at low speeds. Today I popped on a highway road that goes from 35mph to 55mph pretty quickly. While in 2nd gear at about 30mph, I experienced pronounced delayed shifting and my rpms made it into the 2k range with very little acceleration (like slow creeping towards 35mph). Clearly not shifting easily out of 2nd. I didn't want to rev it past 2k rpms so I just pulled onto a side road and did a u-turn. After that, all shifting was totally normal and barely noticeable and rpms were normal.

I went to a few stores and shifting was fine for the rest of the outing. Prior to this, I just get more noticeable shifts from 1st to 2nd (vs almost undetectable shifts) on occasion, but nothing crazy.

When I first got it (less than 2k miles ago), the fluid was old and a little burnt. I was planning on replacing the radiator this week but it has also been flushed already. Is my transmission dying or does stuff like that happen? Sorry for length.

On the rare occasion that I need to start driving above 30 MPH before things have sufficiently warmed up, I've found that my transmission doesn't like to shift past 2nd at the normal RPM point until my ATF temp gets up to about 60-75*F and my coolant temp gets past maybe 100*F.

I just flushed my ATF and the fluid looked good, and I have no issues or other symptoms.

I experience "authoritative" (but not hard) shifts from 1st to 2rd, and reasonably smooth shifts everywhere else. (Although my "garage shifts" (R-N-D) feel a little lurchy/lungy, but doesn't seem problematic.)

What I'm getting at is, IFAIK, a delayed shift from 2nd to 3rd when cold seems pretty normal.

You can see what my fluid looked like in my build thread from post numbers 44 through 49: Ol' Ruby build thread

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3698318-post44.html


Best of luck!

EDIT: And regarding what [MENTION=646722]bmason8159[/MENTION] said above, yes, 2000-3000 RPM is not really very high for this engine. It just "feels" high since under normal conditions, our automatic transmissions shift at lower RPMs. (Too low/early for my taste...) I think you're probably fine.

 

[Devbot]

Those who did their own raptor lights - what LEDs did you use? The ones SRQ uses in their grille just do not last. I've already had to replace them twice, and after just doing so 3 days ago I ALREADY have a brand new bulb burn out. I suspect its because they aren't sealed.

 

[forestcat]

Dude these gears are meant to be reved out. You can get to 60 mph in second gear. The engine doesn’t even redline until 5500 rpms. Stop being a sissy and give her some F’ing corn

On the rare occasion that I need to start driving above 30 MPH before things have sufficiently warmed up, I've found that my transmission doesn't like to shift past 2nd at the normal RPM point until my ATF temp gets up to about 60-75*F and my coolant temp gets past maybe 100*F.

I just flushed my ATF and the fluid looked good, and I have no issues or other symptoms.

I experience "authoritative" (but not hard) shifts from 1st to 2rd, and reasonably smooth shifts everywhere else. (Although my "garage shifts" (R-N-D) feel a little lurchy/lungy, but doesn't seem problematic.)

What I'm getting at is, IFAIK, a delayed shift from 2nd to 3rd when cold seems pretty normal.

You can see what my fluid looked like in my build thread from post numbers 44 through 49: Ol' Ruby build thread

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3698318-post44.html


Best of luck!

EDIT: And regarding what [MENTION=646722]bmason8159[/MENTION] said above, yes, 2000-3000 RPM is not really very high for this engine. It just "feels" high since under normal conditions, our automatic transmissions shift at lower RPMs. (Too low/early for my taste...) I think you're probably fine.

Hey y'all thanks for the feedback. I am def prone to getting a little anxious over my car because my funds are tight and it's always a gamble buying a 20 year old used car. PO did mostly bare minimum maintenance, too and some fluids I got out of it were pretty uncool. I'm about to sink another 1.5k into it and wanted to make sure I was putting it towards the right things.

 

[mrreginaldc]

need help.

tried to start my 4runner today and when i get past the on position to crank it up the whole thing just dies. all lights cut off, radio, locks, etc.

wait a minute or two, power comes back on, but then will die again when i try to crank it up.

anyone know what might be the issue?

 

[Brian.]

need help.

tried to start my 4runner today and when i get past the on position to crank it up the whole thing just dies. all lights cut off, radio, locks, etc.

wait a minute or two, power comes back on, but then will die again when i try to crank it up.

anyone know what might be the issue?

Bad battery? Not unheard of for sulfate to bridge 2 cells, even falling from one plate to touch another over the course of a few minutes (working to not working). Get a helper and a voltmeter, check volts at rest and then while trying to start. Shouldn't drop below 11vdc on a healthy battery... a little below and you might be able to salvage, a lot below and it's likely dead.

 

[TW44LR]

I recently installed a dobinson's lift on my 2000 sr5 5 speed. Inner boots on both CV axels started leaking (boots aren't ripped, I see grease spraying out but nothing is torn). I've been limping along like this. However I've noticed some problems. When going slow and taking tight turns (parking lot) I hear/feel a clicking noise in the steering wheel. Also, after shifting into 2nd or 3rd then going heavier on the throttle I get some clunking sounds. This leads me to believe the cv axels need some love after the lift - which seems par for the course. I've searched online and can't see to get a straight answer on the best way to proceed from here.

Question: Should I replace the cv axels entirely (ouch $$$)? Can I buy a "rebuild kit" and service my OEM ones with 180k miles on them? Can I simply reboot and repack grease or does the clicking and clunking indicate they are past that? Its not obvious to me when a replacement, rebuild, or reboot makes the most sense. I'll be doing the wrenching myself and I'm not afraid of the labor.

I've read online cheaper aftermarket CV aren't very good. I can't swing $2k for rcv axels. Honesty, the cost of OEM one's are scaring me at +$600 for a set, but I'll stomach it if that's what's absolutely required. Any and all advice is welcome at this point. Thank you.

I snagged some oem ones from a junkyard and had them rebuilt at a shop. Was pretty reasonable and have worked great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Devbot]

need help.

tried to start my 4runner today and when i get past the on position to crank it up the whole thing just dies. all lights cut off, radio, locks, etc.

wait a minute or two, power comes back on, but then will die again when i try to crank it up.

anyone know what might be the issue?

Possibly a dead cell or something, I'm with Brian in thinking the battery might be dipping below 11V. Sometimes if it's on the verge you'll get a rapid clicking noise, but if it's riding 10V or low it won't even bother. Though it is a little curious that power is "coming back" to these things after a minute or two, as you put it. Since they don't take that much power (especially compared to starting) they should either come back right away or not at all, at least I would think so...
At any rate you should be able to jump start it to get it going. Most auto parts stores will give you a load test for free on your battery that'll tell you if it's good or not, and I believe you can buy one for like $20-30 from Harbor Freight if you want one for home

 

[SBRADYSFV]

Hi! I have a problem with my 96 SR5 4 Runner. It is missing on cylinder #4, very rough at idle and losing acceleration power. I have replaced all plugs and wires and one coil and nothing has changed. I took it in to my local shop, who just called me and said the mechanic wanted to replace all the plugs and the wires AGAIN because he insists that these models are very picky about plugs and wires. Has anyone else found this to be true? I read on a nother threas, which of course, I can't find now that the next suspect thing it could be is the injectors. I don't want to spend an exorbitant amount of money for these guys to redo everything I have already done. I told them at drop off what we have done/tried at this point. The bill for diagnostic and new plugs and wires is $567 and I think I am being played...any ideas?

 

[SBRADYSFV]

Hi! I have a problem with my 96 SR5 4 Runner. It is missing on cylinder #4, very rough at idle and losing acceleration power. I have replaced all plugs and wires and one coil and nothing has changed. I took it in to my local shop, who just called me and said the mechanic wanted to replace all the plugs and the wires AGAIN because he insists that these models are very picky about plugs and wires. Has anyone else found this to be true? I read on a nother threas, which of course, I can't find now that the next suspect thing it could be is the injectors. I don't want to spend an exorbitant amount of money for these guys to redo everything I have already done. I told them at drop off what we have done/tried at this point. The bill for diagnostic and new plugs and wires is $567 and I think I am being played...any ideas?

 

[spartacus]

Hi! I have a problem with my 96 SR5 4 Runner. It is missing on cylinder #4, very rough at idle and losing acceleration power. I have replaced all plugs and wires and one coil and nothing has changed. I took it in to my local shop, who just called me and said the mechanic wanted to replace all the plugs and the wires AGAIN because he insists that these models are very picky about plugs and wires. Has anyone else found this to be true? I read on a nother threas, which of course, I can't find now that the next suspect thing it could be is the injectors. I don't want to spend an exorbitant amount of money for these guys to redo everything I have already done. I told them at drop off what we have done/tried at this point. The bill for diagnostic and new plugs and wires is $567 and I think I am being played...any ideas?

You are correct you are being played.
What wires and plugs did you use. These trucks do good with denso wires or ngk around 40 bucks online. Denso plugs or ngk oem dual electrode. about 6 bucks a piece.Denso K16TR11, NGK BKR5EKB-11, toyota part 90919-01192. Ohm out the injector it should be around 13.8 ohms at 68 degrees.
If you have to replace the injector it is another 140 bucks or so new you can get refurbished for around 90. buy an obd-II online and download torque to look at fuel trims.

 

[Devbot]

Hi! I have a problem with my 96 SR5 4 Runner. It is missing on cylinder #4, very rough at idle and losing acceleration power. I have replaced all plugs and wires and one coil and nothing has changed. I took it in to my local shop, who just called me and said the mechanic wanted to replace all the plugs and the wires AGAIN because he insists that these models are very picky about plugs and wires. Has anyone else found this to be true? I read on a nother threas, which of course, I can't find now that the next suspect thing it could be is the injectors. I don't want to spend an exorbitant amount of money for these guys to redo everything I have already done. I told them at drop off what we have done/tried at this point. The bill for diagnostic and new plugs and wires is $567 and I think I am being played...any ideas?

Yes, they're taking you to town. Swapping spark plugs and wires would take an experienced mechanic, what, 30 minutes maybe? Either they're the best paid mechanics around or the parts are made of gold
Go get your car and grab a $20 code scanner on the way home

 

[Bad Luck]

Hi! I have a problem with my 96 SR5 4 Runner. It is missing on cylinder #4, very rough at idle and losing acceleration power. I have replaced all plugs and wires and one coil and nothing has changed. I took it in to my local shop, who just called me and said the mechanic wanted to replace all the plugs and the wires AGAIN because he insists that these models are very picky about plugs and wires. Has anyone else found this to be true? I read on a nother threas, which of course, I can't find now that the next suspect thing it could be is the injectors. I don't want to spend an exorbitant amount of money for these guys to redo everything I have already done. I told them at drop off what we have done/tried at this point. The bill for diagnostic and new plugs and wires is $567 and I think I am being played...any ideas?

If the injector ohms out good then it’s time for a compression test

Edit: spark plugs/wires is the mechanic version of I don’t know what’s wrong with it or what might be causing it

 

[MelodyRad]

Battery light always ON

Battery light on dash is always on. I have new battery and alternator. Anyone ever had this happen? No issues. Just annoying.

I bought my 98 4Runner in May 2021 the battery light was always on and previous owner didn't know why it was on and never gave him or me issues.

Eventually around Dec 2021 the alternator finally gave out:AK47:. Replaced alternator, and im back on the road:biggrin1:. 1 Week later I replaced the battery as i didnt trust the physical shape and old appearance:naughty:.

Haven't had issues even if i let it sit for 3 weeks. It bothers me because if I ever have an alternator or battery that is going bad, i will have zero indication as the light is always on.

 

[Bad Luck]

Battery light on dash is always on. I have new battery and alternator. Anyone ever had this happen? No issues. Just annoying.

I bought my 98 4Runner in May 2021 the battery light was always on and previous owner didn't know why it was on and never gave him or me issues.

Eventually around Dec 2021 the alternator finally gave out:AK47:. Replaced alternator, and im back on the road:biggrin1:. 1 Week later I replaced the battery as i didnt trust the physical shape and old appearance:naughty:.

Haven't had issues even if i let it sit for 3 weeks. It bothers me because if I ever have an alternator or battery that is going bad, i will have zero indication as the light is always on.

What is your battery voltage while engine running cold and hot? What is your battery voltage before you start the engine? What did you replace the alternator with (brand)?

 

[spartacus]

Battery light on dash is always on. I have new battery and alternator. Anyone ever had this happen? No issues. Just annoying.

I bought my 98 4Runner in May 2021 the battery light was always on and previous owner didn't know why it was on and never gave him or me issues.

Eventually around Dec 2021 the alternator finally gave out:AK47:. Replaced alternator, and im back on the road:biggrin1:. 1 Week later I replaced the battery as i didnt trust the physical shape and old appearance:naughty:.

Haven't had issues even if i let it sit for 3 weeks. It bothers me because if I ever have an alternator or battery that is going bad, i will have zero indication as the light is always on.

The battery light also indicates low brake fluid in the reservoir.Check your brake fluid level.

Edit: If the brake light is also on . The brake light on also indicates alternator charging issues.

 

[Devbot]

The battery light also indicates low brake fluid in the reservoir.Check your brake fluid level.

I really hope you're being serious, that'd be hilariously outrageous if so ound: Even less intuitive than battery+brake=no alternator