The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Hello all, I am hoping for some help on my issue with my 2001 4Runner with the 3.4/5VZFE. She currently has 310K miles and runs like a top other than some strange noises, haha. However, that is not my current issue. I have noticed some coolant drips on the top of my transmission bell housing; red/orange in color. I did some looking around and it appears to be coming from above the head-gasket/top end area. I've noticed little to no coolant loss and have had no issues of overheating (yet). Sorry for not the best picture quality but you should be able to see the red coolant drip and some of the orange-ish "build-up". Due to little to no coolant loss, how big of an issue is this? As a broke highschool senior, I unfortunately do not have the funds for the equipment to pull the engine and replace the plugs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It’s coming from above the head gasket so it’s most likely the lower intake manifold gaskets leaking which are time consuming to get to. Here’s another thread that you might find helpful: Lower intake manifold gasket replacement

Edit: to answer your question it should be addressed sooner than later as it will start leaking worse and could start leaking into the combustion chamber as well.
 
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Clutch wire

New guy here.....with a beat to death topic.....but with a twist, I cant seem to figure or find on the interscreen....1997 4runner...I swapped a 5vz & manual trans from a donor, into a 97 auto. So the harness, engine and trans all match.... repinned the one ECU plug, But I cant seem to find, or wrap my head around what seems like a simple clutch switch wiring.
 
I recently wrecked my 4 runner and twisted the frame but no harm to motor. So I bought another complete 4 runner that needs a motor. The keys can not be found. The one wreaked is a 1999 limited and the one I bought is a 1997. My question is will the brain from the 1999 work on the 1997. The keys on the 97 can't be found so I am just wanting to use the 99 keys on the 97 by using the brain snd steering column. And making a new key Is too exspensive.

So you want to drop the 99' engine into the 97'... I believe your 99' LTD had the immobilizer, the 97' doesnt, unless you have an after market system... Not sure why this is a big issue---- my biggest concern would be the engine swap--- your 99' has a few different parts on it compared to the 97'--- fuel injectors for one! I'd just pull the engine from the 97', and the 99', strip the 99' down to the long block, and transfer the peripheral components over from the 97'. It would be alot more work to try and swap the wiring harness and god knows what, over to the 97'--- for what? An immobilizer?? When my 98' died, I bought a 2003 JDM 5vz, placed both engines on stands, and swapped all components over--- afetr checking them and replacing all the gaskets and seals...My Engine Swap in progress!
 
To oil catch can, or not to oil catch can, that is the question.

They seem cool for sure, but I'm not 100% convinced that I need one. I'm of the mindset that if Toyota engineers thought we needed one, it would have been included from the factory.
 
To oil catch can, or not to oil catch can, that is the question.

They seem cool for sure, but I'm not 100% convinced that I need one. I'm of the mindset that if Toyota engineers thought we needed one, it would have been included from the factory.

If you think you don't need one, then you 100% definitely do not need one. You can argue it looks cool, to which I'd respond with: how often are you really sitting there parked, hood up, with your engine on display for others to see?
 
If you think you don't need one, then you 100% definitely do not need one. You can argue it looks cool, to which I'd respond with: how often are you really sitting there parked, hood up, with your engine on display for others to see?

Agreed. With that said, do you run one?
 
It’s coming from above the head gasket so it’s most likely the lower intake manifold gaskets leaking which are time consuming to get to. Here’s another thread that you might find helpful: Lower intake manifold gasket replacement

Edit: to answer your question it should be addressed sooner than later as it will start leaking worse and could start leaking into the combustion chamber as well.

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. I took a drive up the canyon this morning with the A/C on and noticed after my drive it did not drip at all. However, once the heat was on, it dripped a little. Found that there is some seepage from my Heater Control Valve/ the hose to it. I’ll end up replacing the valve + the hose most likely and see if that solves my issue. Thank you for the help!
 
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. I took a drive up the canyon this morning with the A/C on and noticed after my drive it did not drip at all. However, once the heat was on, it dripped a little. Found that there is some seepage from my Heater Control Valve/ the hose to it. I’ll end up replacing the valve + the hose most likely and see if that solves my issue. Thank you for the help!
Good catch! I didn’t consider those coolant lines for the heater core. Might want to replace the heater core flow control valve while you are there, but lots of people report having problems with aftermarket valves.
 
I noticed a light coating of what appears to be oil in the intake tube today.

PCV & grommet were done with VCGs 6 months ago. Seems like if it was coming from PCV it would also be around that hole.

There's a tear at the top of the tube where it connects to the TB which I think is pretty common. Haven't been willing to spend $110 to replace it.

I don't recall seeing this before. Is it possibly "normal" at 250k+?

JG7IfAP.jpg
 
I noticed a light coating of what appears to be oil in the intake tube today.



PCV & grommet were done with VCGs 6 months ago. Seems like if it was coming from PCV it would also be around that hole.



There's a tear at the top of the tube where it connects to the TB which I think is pretty common. Haven't been willing to spend $110 to replace it.



I don't recall seeing this before. Is it possibly "normal" at 250k+?



JG7IfAP.jpg
Pretty normal, and you can get that piece off of eBay or Amazon for about 20 bucks. Just reuse your band clamps.

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Clutch started slipping on my four-wheel drive, so I started researching the process as well as replacement parts.

Aside from ordering all factory, if I went aftermarket is there a preferred brand or performance level recommended for off-road use?

Factory replacement?
Stage 2 upgrade?

I already ordered a Timken throw out bearing since every kit that I've seen the main complaint is that the bearings are cheap crap

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Cross posting from my build thread to hopefully get some additional views/answers.

-My engine rpm’s remaining high while coasting in neutral is not normal (or at least this one didn’t do it).

Following up on this with (hopefully) a youtube video showing my coasting idle issue. I apologize for the terrible and shaky video quality. Audio isn't needed unless you enjoy listening to wind noise. Video shows coasting in neutral from 60 mph to a full stop. AC is on during the coast, but the only difference I've noticed between ac on and off during coasting is the rpm difference once stopped. AC on stopped idle rpm is 100-150 higher than ac off stopped idle rpm. No dtc's set or pending and it's done this since the day 1 of my ownership.

Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated.

2000 Toyota 4Runner 5spd/5VZ neutral coast from 60mph to stopped - YouTube
 
Did you take.it out of gear while coasting and use your brake to slow down

680 rpm at idle.isnt terrible...

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Did you take.it out of gear while coasting and use your brake to slow down

680 rpm at idle.isnt terrible...

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It's in neutral (out of gear) coasting. If you watch the video you will see that the coasting idle is much higher than stopped idle. Stays around 1300 rpm while coasting until I am stopped for a second or two.
 
It's in neutral (out of gear) coasting. If you watch the video you will see that the coasting idle is much higher than stopped idle. Stays around 1300 rpm while coasting until I am stopped for a second or two.
I saw that, I will recreate in my truck tonight and report back but when I take it out of gear it returns to ideal RPM - I know this because I coast often and have to bring my RPM up to shift back into gear

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is there anyone whose added the 99+ headrest holders into an earlier year? I got the holders but don't see anyone on the forum who has, do you just measure and drill into the seat?
 
I found some remnants of oil under the hub cap, when doing my axles this weekend. I'm assuming that's from the front bearings, which means that the bearings are now losing oil?

Y5BmTSs.jpg
 
I got a couple of '99+ rear seat backs to make this work. I would not try to drill into the seat back.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing unfortunately the seat backs at the junkyard were destroyed hence me only grabbing the plastic parts, we'll see, worst case I'll disassemble the seat at the PNP next time they have a 99+ and just buy the bottom part of the seats.
 
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