Brian.
Member
Yup, been done years ago... info is out there for anyone to find (I mean, I was able to find it... and not on an obscure site/forum either).
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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Yup, been done years ago... info is out there for anyone to find (I mean, I was able to find it... and not on an obscure site/forum either).
Hoodmechanic
New member
4WD Wiring Completely Missing?
I have been wondering why my 4WD was not functioning for the longest time. I finally took a look and found that the two wiring harnesses on the end of the transfer case were not connected to anything. Also found out the 4wd stick isn't connected to its wiring harness as well. Anyone have wiring diagram or better yet a clear description where the wiring for the transfer case needs to go? Pictures below:
I have been wondering why my 4WD was not functioning for the longest time. I finally took a look and found that the two wiring harnesses on the end of the transfer case were not connected to anything. Also found out the 4wd stick isn't connected to its wiring harness as well. Anyone have wiring diagram or better yet a clear description where the wiring for the transfer case needs to go? Pictures below:
Attachments
Going to need to know year/trim level in order to help with a wiring diagram.
I noticed that as well....that the books show 10 more hp on tacomas. I wondered if it is that they have a smaller resonator on the intake and a more free flow muffler. nothing is any different...injectors...air filters..intake design.. look at them and you will see the difference in resonator and side by side running the taco is a bit louder. With the taco's I dont think they were as concerned with making it a quite rig like a "family" suv.
i have done a resonator delete and a borla muffler...but not sure i notice any extra hp. but do like the sound of my borla and do like what I think is a cleaned up engine compartment. of course there has been debate on this forum on removing the resonator and if any benefits
Picture not visible or there for meWhat is this plate covering? Im assuming for some accessory that my base model doesn't have?
chapolito
New member
I guess my attempt to use dropbox has failed. Updated with an attached image.
mynewlife312017
New member
OK. I have a 2000 4runner. Out of no where it will not start. All i get is a clicking noise. We have put on brand new starter, checked and changed the battery. Tried to jump it off. Checked the relays and fuses and made sure the connecting wires to the starter we good. Still will no luck!!! Can anyone please help me out here.
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Check and clean all the ground points in the engine bay. Check/clean your battery terminals and connections.
I can see it now, but have no clue what that might be for.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Lazy
I’ve got no time on my hands, just like all of you. So, here’s the question.
I bought a 2002 4runner SR5 Sport. Great right? Not yet. Second day after getting it home the upper ball joint decided 230,000 miles was enough. It’s sitting in front of garage. Where’s the question right?
I have a gmc k1500 sitting right next to it. The gmc had new BFG 285/75/16 on it. The truck needs new cv axles then it’s going to be sold. Do you see the trade coming up?
I want to put the new BFG’s on the Toyota.
What is the absolute “right” way to achieve this? I’m guessing from what I’ve read that I’ll need:
Quality 3” Suspension
Performance upper support arms
1 inch body lift
That’s where it gets clouded. Is anything needed for steering adjustments? Front differential? I don’t know. I can only afford to do this one time. The sale of the GMC is going into the Toyota.
That’s where I’m at. I have some mental issues that greatly reduces my ability to visualize a project from start to finish. I used to. I was a carpenter for 25 years. I could build a given project in head from start to finish. I would figure every detail in my head. Now, I can’t. I can do anything, but it has to be broken down into steps. It sucks, but that’s just what it is. I’ve read about every post there is regarding this project, but I’m afraid of skipping over something and having to redo what was already done.
Hey, if your still reading this your attention span is better than mine.
A list of what’s needed, in order, would be awesome. I don’t need super details, I can figure things out if I know what the following task should be.
Thanks. Every single person is busy working and living. If you don’t have time or are in the same boat I’m in, no problems. I pretty sure of I keep reading through the posts I’ll figure it out. like I said, I’m lazy.
I’ve got no time on my hands, just like all of you. So, here’s the question.
I bought a 2002 4runner SR5 Sport. Great right? Not yet. Second day after getting it home the upper ball joint decided 230,000 miles was enough. It’s sitting in front of garage. Where’s the question right?
I have a gmc k1500 sitting right next to it. The gmc had new BFG 285/75/16 on it. The truck needs new cv axles then it’s going to be sold. Do you see the trade coming up?
I want to put the new BFG’s on the Toyota.
What is the absolute “right” way to achieve this? I’m guessing from what I’ve read that I’ll need:
Quality 3” Suspension
Performance upper support arms
1 inch body lift
That’s where it gets clouded. Is anything needed for steering adjustments? Front differential? I don’t know. I can only afford to do this one time. The sale of the GMC is going into the Toyota.
That’s where I’m at. I have some mental issues that greatly reduces my ability to visualize a project from start to finish. I used to. I was a carpenter for 25 years. I could build a given project in head from start to finish. I would figure every detail in my head. Now, I can’t. I can do anything, but it has to be broken down into steps. It sucks, but that’s just what it is. I’ve read about every post there is regarding this project, but I’m afraid of skipping over something and having to redo what was already done.
Hey, if your still reading this your attention span is better than mine.
A list of what’s needed, in order, would be awesome. I don’t need super details, I can figure things out if I know what the following task should be.
Thanks. Every single person is busy working and living. If you don’t have time or are in the same boat I’m in, no problems. I pretty sure of I keep reading through the posts I’ll figure it out. like I said, I’m lazy.
If you are only concerned about clearing those tires at ride height then a suspension lift is all you need. If you are going to Offroad or flex any then you’ll need to clearance the body and probably the bumper. Here’s a good read that should explain it better Clearing 35” Tires at any Ride Height - Coastal Offroad
Devbot
New member
That's about the long and skinny of it. Would be a good time to do lower ball joints too just for the preventative measure. Longer brake lines will be needed and longer sway bar links too (1 inch longer for both if I'm not wrong, there's a couple ways to go about this). Extended parking brake bracket is a good touch to have so you don't stress out the cable
Nothing required for the diffs, but you might benefit from things like a diff drop or the ECGS clamshell bushing.
Regarding the whole "steering adjustments" thing that's where the UCAs come into play; you'll see a lot of talk about SPC control arms (or the copies from Mevotech) that have an adjustable ball joint which will give a technician a TON more options for setting your alignment much more akin to what's achievable in stock configuration. If you were talking about longer tie rods, that's not necessary (at least not that I'm aware of, I foolishly didn't buy a body lift so if there's something related in that regard then I wouldn't be aware)
In your position I would start making a list of things, as from a grand overview like you've established there's really not a lot to it - however I think you'll find there's a lot of little things you'll be trying to keep track of as you go forward that will ultimately serve as a pain in the ass. For example the differences between shocks and coils (both front+rear) and anything that's needed to install them (certain bushings, washers, etc.) Even in the event you were to skip the hassle and buy a kit from someone, there's also lots of things you might end up needing but aren't entirely necessary for installing a lift (diff drop, ECGS bushing, CV boot stretch, new driveline, etc) or certain things you might find very convenient to repair while you're at it. If you haven't already you can browse through the Lift FAQ and pretty readily find the majority of these little extras, if not all of them.
well as you have discovered ....you can run the D3 on the 4runner.....I do on mine. Difference is you pick up more filter area and about 1/4 qt more oil. There is no difference other than that, that I know of
But why toyota had a different filter for the 3.4 taco I dont know. Is there more frame clearance ? A bigger filter for a "work" vehicle ?
JoeT4R
Senior Member
I read some commentary on another forum post that discussed potential differences and how running an oversized filter could potentially harm your engine as opposed to providing a better filtering component. I don’t know what to believe. I’ve ran the D3’s for years and would like to believe they filter “somewhat” better than the D1’s. Only logical explanation would be what you said about different framework. Thanks for the input!
NCThundercloud
New member
New to the communtiy
What's going in fellow 3rd gen owners, I'm new to the community and am looking for some guidance and most updated info on the dreaded tundra trd front coil lift.
I purchased this coils already but can not seem to find the proper strut to use if some guidance could be given I would greatly appreciate this.
What's going in fellow 3rd gen owners, I'm new to the community and am looking for some guidance and most updated info on the dreaded tundra trd front coil lift.
I purchased this coils already but can not seem to find the proper strut to use if some guidance could be given I would greatly appreciate this.
Devbot
New member
I mean if you were running a filter double the size or if you had some newer, more sensitive car - yeah I could potentially see that - but the difference between the two isn't that large all things considered. I take a lot of oil discussion with a big grain of salt; case in point being the BOITG forum. Some of those guys are straight geniuses and know just about everything there possibly is to know about oil, additives, filters, what have you - but then they turn right around and recommend Fram above anything else :shrug:
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