The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Devbot]

I'll definitely check the driveshaft and put in my order for the 2nd gen links. Is there a particular brand for the ball joints you would recommend?

OEM for lowers, I'm a huge fan of JBA's high caster UCA/UBJ. Not a single complaint on them

 

[Tallyreed]

AC clutch or compressor?

Son showed up at home with the 3rd gen smoking and an awful loud squeal. Took off belts one at a time and isolated the sound to the AC belt. Removed belt and pulley, small rattle in pulley. Replaced both, cranked her up and same issue, loud squeal and immediate smoke. Had my son cranked her again while I watched and the new belt was not moving at all. Didn't use a belt gage but it's about the same tightness as alternator belt which is fine. What's my next step for troubleshooting??

 

[Devbot]

Son showed up at home with the 3rd gen smoking and an awful loud squeal. Took off belts one at a time and isolated the sound to the AC belt. Removed belt and pulley, small rattle in pulley. Replaced both, cranked her up and same issue, loud squeal and immediate smoke. Had my son cranked her again while I watched and the new belt was not moving at all. Didn't use a belt gage but it's about the same tightness as alternator belt which is fine. What's my next step for troubleshooting??

Smoke from where, the exhaust or from the engine bay? Sounds to me like it's just not tight enough, and perhaps getting hot/smoking from the friction

 

[JoeT4R]

Okay, silly question here but I want to know!

I’d like to change my dash guage lights to be the orange that’s in the late year 1st Gen Tacoma’s, like the one I will attach a photo of here. I have red LED’s currently but they have hot spots and I’m tired of it. Plus I like the way the orange looks! I remember when removing my OEM bulbs that were green, they had a little rubber green tip over the bulbs. Do I need to just go to Toyota and say hey, I need new dash lights for an ‘03 Tacoma? Or can I test my luck with the regular sylvania bulbs I can find locally. Those don’t have any rubber tips over them though. I have an ‘01 so my guage lights should be the 24 bulbs

 

[Devbot]

Okay, silly question here but I want to know!

I’d like to change my dash guage lights to be the orange that’s in the late year 1st Gen Tacoma’s, like the one I will attach a photo of here. I have red LED’s currently but they have hot spots and I’m tired of it. Plus I like the way the orange looks! I remember when removing my OEM bulbs that were green, they had a little rubber green tip over the bulbs. Do I need to just go to Toyota and say hey, I need new dash lights for an ‘03 Tacoma? Or can I test my luck with the regular sylvania bulbs I can find locally. Those don’t have any rubber tips over them though. I have an ‘01 so my guage lights should be the 24 bulbs

Everything you could want to know LED Dash lights FAQs

 

[JoeT4R]

Everything you could want to know LED Dash lights FAQs

So that’s the thread I read prior to making the above post. I still ask my question because I don’t know if the guage lights to an ‘03 Taco would be the same bulbs as my ‘01 4R, you know what I mean? If they are, then I have no problem going to Toyota and telling them I need ‘03 Tacoma dash lights, but then they’ll spew off part numbers and so on and I don’t have those on hand nor do I know them

 

[Devbot]

So that’s the thread I read prior to making the above post. I still ask my question because I don’t know if the guage lights to an ‘03 Taco would be the same bulbs as my ‘01 4R, you know what I mean? If they are, then I have no problem going to Toyota and telling them I need ‘03 Tacoma dash lights, but then they’ll spew off part numbers and so on and I don’t have those on hand nor do I know them

I don't know why you're dead set on going to the dealership for LEDs. If you really wanna go the incandescent bulb+cover route, then go pick up a pack from literally any store for probably half the price the dealership would charge; covers might be a little harder to find but damn near anybody should carry the bulbs. Otherwise just pick up some amber #24 or #74 LEDs (both have the same size/style base, #74s are just larger - about twice the size). Most would recommend someone like VLED, including myself. I'd try to avoid cheap chinese crap like superbrightleds, many have had their bulbs flicker or burn out very quickly from them (again, myself included.) Just know that finding that shade of orange is very difficult, I've tried using incandescents+covers, white LEDs+covers, colored LEDs from a number of people AND even colored LEDs+covers and nothing seems to be that shade of orange (in fact they all seem to be the same shade no matter who I bought them from, even between those labeled orange and amber). In the end I went with plain old amber VLEDs because they were the most clear and don't have hotspots. They don't quite match my Tacoma stereo and clock but they're as close as I found.
I would be very shocked if Toyota even still carried the same old bulbs and covers and didn't just hand you a pack of Sylvanias they bought wholesale.
That all being said I would only upgrade the main gauge cluster lights from #24 to #74 bulbs if you decide to. I tried to replace all of mine and everything BUT the main gauges was so stupidly bright it was incredibly distracting (PRNDL, brights, low gas, etc). There's also a number of current bleeds in the dash meaning many (in seemingly random positions) would need to be swapped back to incandescents to avoid this. If you look around you'll see very few people talking about replacing all the #24 bulbs and it's for this reason.

 

[JoeT4R]

I don't know why you're dead set on going to the dealership for LEDs. If you really wanna go the incandescent bulb+cover route, then go pick up a pack from literally any store for probably half the price the dealership would charge; covers might be a little harder to find but damn near anybody should carry the bulbs. Otherwise just pick up some amber #24 or #74 LEDs (both have the same size/style base, #74s are just larger - about twice the size). Most would recommend someone like VLED, including myself. I'd try to avoid cheap chinese crap like superbrightleds, many have had their bulbs flicker or burn out very quickly from them (again, myself included.) Just know that finding that shade of orange is very difficult, I've tried using incandescents+covers, white LEDs+covers, colored LEDs from a number of people AND even colored LEDs+covers and nothing seems to be that shade of orange (in fact they all seem to be the same shade no matter who I bought them from, even between those labeled orange and amber). In the end I went with plain old amber VLEDs because they were the most clear and don't have hotspots. They don't quite match my Tacoma stereo and clock but they're as close as I found.
I would be very shocked if Toyota even still carried the same old bulbs and covers and didn't just hand you a pack of Sylvanias they bought wholesale.
That all being said I would only upgrade the main gauge cluster lights from #24 to #74 bulbs if you decide to. I tried to replace all of mine and everything BUT the main gauges was so stupidly bright it was incredibly distracting (PRNDL, brights, low gas, etc). There's also a number of current bleeds in the dash meaning many (in seemingly random positions) would need to be swapped back to incandescents to avoid this. If you look around you'll see very few people talking about replacing all the #24 bulbs and it's for this reason.

I appreciate your detailed response! I’m not sure if I was clear on what I was trying to say, but all I want to replace are the three main bulbs that illuminate my entire dashboard. I will plan to stick with the #24 bulbs in the meantime as this is what my rig calls for. I’ll test my luck with the Sylvania’s and if they don’t fit, I’ll return them and try again in another way. Won’t be the end of the world, just wanted to hear some other opinions on the matter. Again, thank you for all the info

 

[Skulking]

I appreciate your detailed response! I’m not sure if I was clear on what I was trying to say, but all I want to replace are the three main bulbs that illuminate my entire dashboard. I will plan to stick with the #24 bulbs in the meantime as this is what my rig calls for. I’ll test my luck with the Sylvania’s and if they don’t fit, I’ll return them and try again in another way. Won’t be the end of the world, just wanted to hear some other opinions on the matter. Again, thank you for all the info

I'm not sure why that shows 24's. I am not certain that the '01 info is wrong on there, but the 2000 info is wrong as the gauge lights are absolutely 74's. The bases on 24's and 74's are not the same size. 24's are a W2x4.6d base and W2.1x4.9d base. 24's will fit loosely in a 74 holder, 74's won't fit in a 24 holder. I used 74's from SuperbrightLEDs, and had hotspotting. I switched to VLED's 74's and am way happier with the even brightness. This is a new thread which is more correct than the old thread previously linked to.

 

[Devbot]

I'm not sure why that shows 24's. I am not certain that the '01 info is wrong on there, but the 2000 info is wrong as the gauge lights are absolutely 74's. The bases on 24's and 74's are not the same size. 24's are a W2x4.6d base and W2.1x4.9d base. 24's will fit loosely in a 74 holder, 74's won't fit in a 24 holder. I used 74's from SuperbrightLEDs, and had hotspotting. I switched to VLED's 74's and am way happier with the even brightness. This is an new thread which is more correct than the old thread previously linked to.

^^^ This is totally right, I just remembered I initially tried to take out the #74 VLEDs from the PRDNL spots and throw in some incandescent #74 bulbs and they were too wide to fit. Definitely only a one way fit in that regard, my mistake.
On that note, another reason to avoid superbrightleds is many notice the bases (and overall width of the LED) tend to vary and sometimes are too thick to fit. Just another result of cutting corners.

 

[spartacus]

Son showed up at home with the 3rd gen smoking and an awful loud squeal. Took off belts one at a time and isolated the sound to the AC belt. Removed belt and pulley, small rattle in pulley. Replaced both, cranked her up and same issue, loud squeal and immediate smoke. Had my son cranked her again while I watched and the new belt was not moving at all. Didn't use a belt gage but it's about the same tightness as alternator belt which is fine. What's my next step for troubleshooting??

Compressor clutch may be locking up.The compressor clutch should spin freely when not engaged.

 

[Fhcaputo]

Cleaning the IAC was the answer! Cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor while I was in cleaning mode. Don't try to reuse that rubber gasket in the IAC at the bottom of the throttle body. Ask me how I know!

 

[wsteele8974]

Son showed up at home with the 3rd gen smoking and an awful loud squeal. Took off belts one at a time and isolated the sound to the AC belt. Removed belt and pulley, small rattle in pulley. Replaced both, cranked her up and same issue, loud squeal and immediate smoke. Had my son cranked her again while I watched and the new belt was not moving at all. Didn't use a belt gage but it's about the same tightness as alternator belt which is fine. What's my next step for troubleshooting??

It sounds like either your A/C pump is seized(never personally seen one do that)or the A/C clutch is hung up.

 

[Bad Luck]

Son showed up at home with the 3rd gen smoking and an awful loud squeal. Took off belts one at a time and isolated the sound to the AC belt. Removed belt and pulley, small rattle in pulley. Replaced both, cranked her up and same issue, loud squeal and immediate smoke. Had my son cranked her again while I watched and the new belt was not moving at all. Didn't use a belt gage but it's about the same tightness as alternator belt which is fine. What's my next step for troubleshooting??

Is the front portion of the ac compressor moving? If it's not then you have a locked up compressor causing the belt to burn up and squeak. If the compressor is locked up you'll need to replace the compressor, compressor seals, and receiver/drier. The responsible thing to do is get your refrigerant recovered before you open the ac system if you are attempting this yourself. Let me know what you figure out.

 

[wsteele8974]

I want to thank you guys for your help. I do however, have one more question. I got the alignment done about 4 months ago along with new 245/70/16's. I forgot to mention that it has 2in. revtek spring spacers in the front and I believe the revtek 2in. shocks and springs in the rear(both were installed by previous owner). I'm taking all that out and replacing it old man emu front 880, rear 906 springs with Bilstein 5100's front and rear. Will I need to have the alignment redone after putting the new springs and shocks in?

 

[Devbot]

I want to thank you guys for your help. I do however, have one more question. I got the alignment done about 4 months ago along with new 245/70/16's. I forgot to mention that it has 2in. revtek spring spacers in the front and I believe the revtek 2in. shocks and springs in the rear(both were installed by previous owner). I'm taking all that out and replacing it old man emu front 880, rear 906 springs with Bilstein 5100's front and rear. Will I need to have the alignment redone after putting the new springs and shocks in?

More than likely but sometimes you can get away with it. If you notice your steering is slightly off or the car doesn't track totally straight then it might benefit you to have it checked and possibly redone. If you need one bad, you'll know in a hurry as your car will be all over the place like you're pulling a 5th wheel in high cross-winds.
But again, I'm leaning towards yes.

 

[spartacus]

I want to thank you guys for your help. I do however, have one more question. I got the alignment done about 4 months ago along with new 245/70/16's. I forgot to mention that it has 2in. revtek spring spacers in the front and I believe the revtek 2in. shocks and springs in the rear(both were installed by previous owner). I'm taking all that out and replacing it old man emu front 880, rear 906 springs with Bilstein 5100's front and rear. Will I need to have the alignment redone after putting the new springs and shocks in?

You don't need alignment if you don't loosen the alignment cam bolts. I vé installed front struts by using the stock jack upside 'down wedging it against the wheel well and pushing the upper control arm down to slide'the bottom bolt through and did not need alignment.

 

[Fhcaputo]

12 Ton Press For Front Bearings/Hubs

It seems that Harbor Freight is sold out of the 20 ton press everywhere in this area, and I wanted to ask the group if you think the 12 ton press has enough umph and travel to press the hub and bearing out of the knuckle?

Thanks All,
Frank

 

[Bad Luck]

It seems that Harbor Freight is sold out of the 20 ton press everywhere in this area, and I wanted to ask the group if you think the 12 ton press has enough umph and travel to press the hub and bearing out of the knuckle?

Thanks All,
Frank

I'm not sure the 12 ton press would be tall enough for the axle length, but other than that I think the 12 ton would be plenty of press capacity for the job.

 

[Fhcaputo]

I'm not sure the 12 ton press would be tall enough for the axle length, but other than that I think the 12 ton would be plenty of press capacity for the job.

Thanks for the reply Bad Luck. I like the smaller size of the 12 ton over the 20 for my work area. I may give it a try.