The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Airaid intake tubing to replace the oem setup with silencer attachment? yes/no?


I did it. Kept OEM on a shelf just in case. Opens up some space in the engine bay. It’s louder. Pretty sure that’s it. I personally like it better but I also know it’s not giving me any meaningful performance enhancement.
 
I did it. Kept OEM on a shelf just in case. Opens up some space in the engine bay. It’s louder. Pretty sure that’s it. I personally like it better but I also know it’s not giving me any meaningful performance enhancement.

I wanna do it, but I just don’t know if I can justify $159 for a tube. Know what I mean? I DO want it for the appearance, and definitely want it to clean up the engine bay, so as to assist with changing plugs and wires much more easily. I’ll think on it for a while. Thank you for your input!
 
I wanna do it, but I just don’t know if I can justify $159 for a tube. Know what I mean? I DO want it for the appearance, and definitely want it to clean up the engine bay, so as to assist with changing plugs and wires much more easily. I’ll think on it for a while. Thank you for your input!

Then remove your silencer and use some tubing. Effectively the same thing.
 
For those who find this post, the 12 ton worked just fine for one side, but I ended up taking the knuckle to a machine shop for the other side. I just couldn’t get the hub to break loose. The shop had a 20 ton press and made short work of getting the hub loose for me. I brought the parts home and finished the job with my 12 ton press. The moral of the story for me is wait for a 20 ton press!
 
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Best deal on oem lower ball joints? Camelback is a bit more expensive than McGeorge, but does anyone know any place better?
 
Are you asking about doing a 1” front differential drop on a stock-height 4Runner?

I don’t know that it would hurt anything, but I also don’t know what you’d gain. AFAIK, you only need a diff drop once a lift gets high enough to make your CV angles too extreme, leading to at best reduced droop, at worst premature wear or failure.

At stock height, the CV angles are as-designed (ideal).

I have about a 1”-1.5” lift in the front and I don’t need a diff drop. But it seems like the consensus on this forum is once your lift gets higher than 2”-3” or so, you’ll want a diff drop.

Is there a problem you’re trying to solve or just curious?

Maybe someone with more info will chime in.

Yes I'm looking for extra room to clear the oil pan for a motor swap.
 
Hey guys, back again. Had to do some front brake work on my 3rd gen, rotors, calipers and pads. My rears seemed loose so I manually adjusted them and noticed that my ebrake lever was pretty hard to pull after 5 clicks and when I checked the temp of the rears with my infrared after a 30 mile round trip from town, they were both at 150-160f. Are these specs relatively normal or do I need to readjust them?

EDIT: out of pure curiosity, has anyone successfully used 1st gen tundra/sequoia LBJ's on a 3rd gen before? I saw a post and for the of me, can't find it.
 
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Best deal on oem lower ball joints? Camelback is a bit more expensive than McGeorge, but does anyone know any place better?
The cheapest I've found is McGeorge. You can save a little bit of money by buying both LBJ's together 04005-02235 but you'll need to order two castle nuts 90171-A0005 as well.
 
Hey guys, back again. Had to do some front brake work on my 3rd gen, rotors, calipers and pads. My rears seemed loose so I manually adjusted them and noticed that my ebrake lever was pretty hard to pull after 5 clicks and when I checked the temp of the rears with my infrared after a 30 mile round trip from town, they were both at 150-160f. Are these specs relatively normal or do I need to readjust them?

EDIT: out of pure curiosity, has anyone successfully used 1st gen tundra/sequoia LBJ's on a 3rd gen before? I saw a post and for the of me, can't find it.
They are a slightly different design and will require different tie rod ends and you'll lose some steering angle. See post above this for LBJ kit part number. Also, you probably adjusted your rear drums too tight and they are dragging. Try loosening the adjusters a couple notches.
 
They are a slightly different design and will require different tie rod ends and you'll lose some steering angle. See post above this for LBJ kit part number. Also, you probably adjusted your rear drums too tight and they are dragging. Try loosening the adjusters a couple notches.

I'll give that a try, see if it helps. The prices for the LBJ's and castle nuts were good until I saw how much they wanted for shipping. Then again I live in Hawaii so shipping cost shouldn't have been a surprise for me.....
 
I'll give that a try, see if it helps. The prices for the LBJ's and castle nuts were good until I saw how much they wanted for shipping. Then again I live in Hawaii so shipping cost shouldn't have been a surprise for me.....

Only went to Hawaii for 8 days and my weeks worth of groceries for my family cost over $200 if I recall. Absolutely insane down there
 
Hey guys, back again. Had to do some front brake work on my 3rd gen, rotors, calipers and pads. My rears seemed loose so I manually adjusted them and noticed that my ebrake lever was pretty hard to pull after 5 clicks and when I checked the temp of the rears with my infrared after a 30 mile round trip from town, they were both at 150-160f. Are these specs relatively normal or do I need to readjust them?

EDIT: out of pure curiosity, has anyone successfully used 1st gen tundra/sequoia LBJ's on a 3rd gen before? I saw a post and for the of me, can't find it.


Sounds ballpark. Depends on how much braking you did recently. After I fixed my issue, I was getting 130ish .
 
I'll give that a try, see if it helps. The prices for the LBJ's and castle nuts were good until I saw how much they wanted for shipping. Then again I live in Hawaii so shipping cost shouldn't have been a surprise for me.....

have you tried amayama...Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama
they ship from japan, the shipping except heavy stuff is "ok"' takes a few weeks. But prices are real low...so sometimes even with the shipping you get better than dealer.....the local dealer sucks here and charges 20 to 30% over MSRP, and he is the only dealer for over 300 miles and that next one....they own too.

I live opposite of you....alaska.... and shipping is nuts to here too unless I use amazon prime or something....even places that say free shipping ...in small print say not to AK or Hawaii
 
have you tried amayama...Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama
they ship from japan, the shipping except heavy stuff is "ok"' takes a few weeks. But prices are real low...so sometimes even with the shipping you get better than dealer.....the local dealer sucks here and charges 20 to 30% over MSRP, and he is the only dealer for over 300 miles and that next one....they own too.

I live opposite of you....alaska.... and shipping is nuts to here too unless I use amazon prime or something....even places that say free shipping ...in small print say not to AK or Hawaii

Same with the Toyota dealerships here on the big Island. When they quoted 600 for the lowers, I about had a heart attack!
 
Suspension suggestions?

what up guys was wondering what suspension you guys recommend? I'm kind of leaning towards bilstein 5100 but would love to hear your guys input? Also anything else I have to change while I'm doing that job?
 
what up guys was wondering what suspension you guys recommend? I'm kind of leaning towards bilstein 5100 but would love to hear your guys input? Also anything else I have to change while I'm doing that job?

How much weight are you running and how much lift do you want (if any at all)?
 
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