octanejunkie
Elite Member
Or it could be the sound of water running through the heater control valve/upper hose when you open it for the first time
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The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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GroceryGetter2.0
New member
Had 30 minutes this morning to mess with it. Loss 3 psi in 15 minutes. Drove it around the block and checked the oil and its starting to get milky. Parked it and some coolant was starting to drip again.
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GroceryGetter2.0
New member
Leaking from the connection point right behind the cat.
Looks like it's time to do a cylinder compression test and cylinder leakdown test. You could also do a coolant combustion gas analyzer test. The coolant combustion gas tester would be the easiest way to confirm bad head gasket/cracked head. Have you gotten it overly hot lately?
GroceryGetter2.0
New member
It got semi hot a few months ago sitting in the drive through. I replaced the thermostat with an oem one and it's been fine. I'll see if I can borrow some tools to do the compression and leak down test. I'll come back when I get them done. Appreciate the help.
Two 3rd gen 4runners, Two different Rear Hatch Wiring Harnesses
I am trying to restore power to the rear window of my 1998 4runner. The previous owner said the vehicle was rear ended and the rear hatch was replaced with the same color door. After pulling the hatch apart, and following the wires into the rear ceiling, I found a 4 prong female connector (coming from the hatch) plugged into a 6 prong male connector. No wonder it doesn't work! None of the wires going in or coming out of the connection were aligned. Also, the lock mechanism works fine. I don't want to replace the entire door, I just want to make the back window roll down. Is there a way for me to splice the wires from the door to the vehicle? What do I do with the extra 2 wires left over? If anyone has any insight on this issue, it would be tremendously helpful.
I am trying to restore power to the rear window of my 1998 4runner. The previous owner said the vehicle was rear ended and the rear hatch was replaced with the same color door. After pulling the hatch apart, and following the wires into the rear ceiling, I found a 4 prong female connector (coming from the hatch) plugged into a 6 prong male connector. No wonder it doesn't work! None of the wires going in or coming out of the connection were aligned. Also, the lock mechanism works fine. I don't want to replace the entire door, I just want to make the back window roll down. Is there a way for me to splice the wires from the door to the vehicle? What do I do with the extra 2 wires left over? If anyone has any insight on this issue, it would be tremendously helpful.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Rattling heat shield on my upstream catalytic converter. Missing one of the bolts and nuts at the very top on the front portion. New bolt, nut with washer to accommodate for the space between the shield and the converter? Or utilize hose clamps? Heat shield isn’t perfectly round, but the hose clamps do fit on there. Thoughts/experience?
octanejunkie
Elite Member
There are several versions of the rear hatch the options being wiper and heated glass (electrical) washer fluid and spoiler.
Your truck's wiring/connectors may vary based on the equipment package from the factory.
In the rear door is the hatch ECU (orange box) with two connections next to it (white and grey) attached to a sheet metal panel.
Make sure all of those are connected properly, the rear window won't work without all that stuff connected.
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Sounds like your rear hatch got replaced with a newer rear hatch but they did not transfer the old hatch wiring harness. The correct fix would be to find a 98 hatch harness and replace the current hatch harness with that. Should be able to find someone parting out a 98 or a picknpull with a 98 in inventory.
I bought a 1998 SR5 about 6 weeks ago with 227k miles. I just parted out a friends 2000 and kept a bunch of parts before I scrapped it. Is it worth having the donor fuel injectors (brown ones) rebuilt and replacing the likely original grey ones in my 98? No codes, no issues running or idling, just as preventative maintenance.
Would anyone know why my ABS system isn't working? I have replaced the ABS ECU, ABS Pump, and have checked for any ABS codes and have came up dry. No ABS light, no codes, but the pump doesn't prime when the key is on "On" nor does it pulsate when braking hard on a loose surface (have tried dirt roads and snow)
octanejunkie
Elite Member
See this
Injector Cleaning Service – MotorWest Performance
You can send in your original injectors for cleaning and rebuilding for $25 each and get before and after flow bench data for your records. Others have done this with good success.
I opted to buy a closely-matched set of completely rebuilt Denso injectors with lifetime warranty outright. I'll sell or gift my cores once I pull em.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Windshield wiper sprayer options
Replace with OEM?
Replace with RAV4?
Replace with Honda Odyssey?
View attachment 394895
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Replace with OEM?
Replace with RAV4?
Replace with Honda Odyssey?
View attachment 394895
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fatherohenry
Member
I put in some Honda Odyssey nozzles 6 months ago and I'm quite happy with them. Huge improvement. I wasn't sure about spending $30 on 'em but after spending $285 on LCA and UCA bushings it seems like a bargain!
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Odyssey, no question!
octanejunkie
Elite Member
willyd520
New member
Any year in particular?
BTW bought your SGII mount for my 4Runner and absolutely love it!
Honda part number 76810-TK8-A01
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Not worth the hassle or shipping expense to order from a Honda dealer to save a few bucks, most are $10-11 each plus tax and shipping
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RhodeRunner
New member
brake upgrade or...
Hey everybody, I've recently done my timing belt and water pump, did a general tuneup last year with new spark plugs and wiring etc. My 98 4Runner is from North Carolina originally at 170k. it's been out here in Rhode Island for about 7 years and I keep it pretty clean and everything but the bumper started rusted out so I just went to a junk yard (or 4) to find a clean-ish one to put on this Summer. so a couple Questions:
1. what should i do to stop / inhibit underbody rust? I'm washing the undercarriage pretty regularly in the Winter, but that's about it.
2. I'm due for a front brake / rotor replacement. Now I'm seeing all this info about the Tundra brake upgrade, but the difference of like $350 for the new parts vs $120 for 4Runner brakes/rotors makes me question if it's worth it. I don't really haul anything and I know the breaks are undersized but I'm very rarely hauling anything heavy in the back.
3. My E-brake was sticking and I got it unstuck, but i'm still having this issue where my brakes will stick until i give it some gas. I'm assuming maybe the drum brakes in the back are going, or I was reading it could be axle grease gumming up the rear brakes.. question is what should I have on hand when I take the back brakes apart in case it is axle grease?
Hey everybody, I've recently done my timing belt and water pump, did a general tuneup last year with new spark plugs and wiring etc. My 98 4Runner is from North Carolina originally at 170k. it's been out here in Rhode Island for about 7 years and I keep it pretty clean and everything but the bumper started rusted out so I just went to a junk yard (or 4) to find a clean-ish one to put on this Summer. so a couple Questions:
1. what should i do to stop / inhibit underbody rust? I'm washing the undercarriage pretty regularly in the Winter, but that's about it.
2. I'm due for a front brake / rotor replacement. Now I'm seeing all this info about the Tundra brake upgrade, but the difference of like $350 for the new parts vs $120 for 4Runner brakes/rotors makes me question if it's worth it. I don't really haul anything and I know the breaks are undersized but I'm very rarely hauling anything heavy in the back.
3. My E-brake was sticking and I got it unstuck, but i'm still having this issue where my brakes will stick until i give it some gas. I'm assuming maybe the drum brakes in the back are going, or I was reading it could be axle grease gumming up the rear brakes.. question is what should I have on hand when I take the back brakes apart in case it is axle grease?
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