The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Thanks, that's what I'm thinking. Now I just have to get that diff drain plug out!


Get the fill plug out first!! :D

And consider replacing the front diff fill and drain plugs with:

- Front diff fill plug Lexus PN 9034118060
- Front diff drain plug Lexus PN 9034124016
 
Get the fill plug out first!! :D

And consider replacing the front diff fill and drain plugs with:

- Front diff fill plug Lexus PN 9034118060
- Front diff drain plug Lexus PN 9034124016

The fill plug came out no problem. Going to try heat and extractor before resorting to finding a welder. That sucker's in there good and stripped!
 

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TRD center caps for stock 2001 SR5

Hi all,
I have a stock 2001 SR5 and I was wondering if there are any TRD center caps that will fit the stock 15" wheels. I found the PTR20-35111-GR silver TRD center caps and they seem to be the same dimensions but I want to be sure before I buy them. If anyone has any experience with this or can point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it!
 
Anyone who has done the brake peddle adjustment get it into factory specs? I adjusted mine since they were at almost 5” when spec is 6.3”! I almost ran out of pushrod though and the brake light switch is getting pushed on quite a bit


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Anyone who has done the brake peddle adjustment get it into factory specs? I adjusted mine since they were at almost 5” when spec is 6.3”! I almost ran out of pushrod though and the brake light switch is getting pushed on quite a bit


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Are you sure you’re measuring from the right spot?
 
I believe so, just following from the FSM. Only thing that might make it off is the carpet but that shouldn't result in a whole 1.5" off spec.
FSM procedure for adjusting it has you remove the stop light switch in step 2B and then reinstall the switch and adjust it 2F-2I.
 

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FSM procedure for adjusting it has you remove the stop light switch in step 2B and then reinstall the switch and adjust it 2F-2I.

Yeup this is the exact page I followed. When putting back on the switch the pedal bracket was almost fully touching the brake switch bracket. Yet the pedal was still .25" from being within the spec
 
Yeup this is the exact page I followed. When putting back on the switch the pedal bracket was almost fully touching the brake switch bracket. Yet the pedal was still .25" from being within the spec
And you're measuring from the pad surface that your foot contacts to the floor carpet with no floor mats?
 
And you're measuring from the pad surface that your foot contacts to the floor carpet with no floor mats?

Yes, first measurement (prior to extending the pushrod) was about 5.5", then extending the pushrod as much as I could I could only get it to about 6.25"
 
This has bothered me for a couple seconds every time I've noticed it since I bought her 10 years ago. I'm really not a bad T4R owner. Don't call car welfare on me.

Did PO do a poor job replacing the glass or is this something else?

Tenof8S.jpg
 
This has bothered me for a couple seconds every time I've noticed it since I bought her 10 years ago. I'm really not a bad T4R owner. Don't call car welfare on me.



Did PO do a poor job replacing the glass or is this something else?



Tenof8S.jpg
Looks like glue in glass vs mirror panel replacement

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Is the rear seat support structural to the body? I'm thinking of removing the area around the bottle jack to fit a fridge under the sleeping platform. Would make the car a permanent 3 seater, but that's ok for what I use it for.
 
Is the rear seat support structural to the body?

I'll say no on that, looks as it's sole purpose is to create a flat surface for seat bottom in area with a few different elevation changes.
Are your building a shelf to set Frig on and secure it?
If you only cut out enough material to create shelf then reenforce floppy metal with Aluminum angle n pop rivets
you'll add structure back into area, sounds like a win go for it.


But who knows your first person I've heard of doing such, worse case floor flops in the breeze.
 
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