The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[TuckTuck]

Need help.....pleaseeee

New to the group. Hope I am doing the format correctly. Sorry for the long post.

2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD

Issue : Popped these codes PO773 and P1780

Nothing happened for awhile and then when it started getting hot out the SUV would make some heavy clunking which you could feel while driving and then slip out of gear. When that happened the RPMs would rev up being out of gear. I pulled over and was able to limp it home in 1st gear. If I tried to go any faster it would slip out of gear again. The next day when it was cold in the morning I had no issues. Drove it to work. Then it sat in the hot sun all day and the original issue happened again.

So I researched the codes and figured it had to be P0773 which is the TCM ( transmission control module). I ordered a new one and replaced it. The same exact thing is happening. I noticed two more solenoids located next to the TCM when I dropped the tranny pan. I should’ve replaced those as well but I figured I would ask everyone in here their thoughts before I drop the pan again.

The P1780 error is a park/neutral switch code. This kind of makes sense because if I am driving and the car thinks its in neutral it would slip out of gear and the RPMs woukd go up. But then if I slow down why would that reset it and allow me to drive in first at lower RPMs?

On a side not. On the dash the VSC OFF and VSC Trac lights have been on for awhile as well.

Any information helping me solve this issue would greatly be appreciated! If I can provide any more information please let me know. I am desperate to figure this out. Sucks asking for rides everyday! Thank you.

 

[spartacus]

Have you ever replaced them before? I never have and am pretty sure they’re the originals. I’d love to have strong shocks back there so it stays open full time when I’m using the trunk area.

I installed the strong arm lift struts on a 5th Gen and they are stronger then the oems have been in their for about a year and a half, still good. I ve ordered the ones you've linked. Will install those before winter and have my oem recharged as they don't hold up the hatch in the cold.

 

[spartacus]

New to the group. Hope I am doing the format correctly. Sorry for the long post.

2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD

Issue : Popped these codes PO773 and P1780

Nothing happened for awhile and then when it started getting hot out the SUV would make some heavy clunking which you could feel while driving and then slip out of gear. When that happened the RPMs would rev up being out of gear. I pulled over and was able to limp it home in 1st gear. If I tried to go any faster it would slip out of gear again. The next day when it was cold in the morning I had no issues. Drove it to work. Then it sat in the hot sun all day and the original issue happened again.

So I researched the codes and figured it had to be P0773 which is the TCM ( transmission control module). I ordered a new one and replaced it. The same exact thing is happening. I noticed two more solenoids located next to the TCM when I dropped the tranny pan. I should’ve replaced those as well but I figured I would ask everyone in here their thoughts before I drop the pan again.

The P1780 error is a park/neutral switch code. This kind of makes sense because if I am driving and the car thinks its in neutral it would slip out of gear and the RPMs woukd go up. But then if I slow down why would that reset it and allow me to drive in first at lower RPMs?

On a side not. On the dash the VSC OFF and VSC Trac lights have been on for awhile as well.

Any information helping me solve this issue would greatly be appreciated! If I can provide any more information please let me know. I am desperate to figure this out. Sucks asking for rides everyday! Thank you.

Any Check engine light will trigger vsc off and Trac. P1780 have been caused by corroded rear light bulbs, or trailer wiring. If that's all good then replace the neutral safety switch. The Computer is not seeing or thinking it's in reverse or getting two inputs at once and setting the p0178. The PO773 lock up solonoid E electrical. Testing procedure in the fsm. there is a diagram of solonoid in the link thread.
A/Trans shift Solenoid SL identify
Also driving in high rpm like 3k to 4k in the 1st gear has according to one person has helped them with the PO773 code but do it at your own risk.

 

[JoeT4R]

I installed the strong arm lift struts on a 5th Gen and they are stronger then the oems have been in their for about a year and a half, still good. I ve ordered the ones you've linked. Will install those before winter and have my oem recharged as they don't hold up the hatch in the cold.

Oh that’s awesome to hear. I’d love for the rear hatch to just pop up. It would be like owning a new car!! Lol.

Where did you order them from, and were they a direct swap? Did you have to use any additional hardware, bushings, clips etc?

 

[Brian.]

Oh that’s awesome to hear. I’d love for the rear hatch to just pop up. It would be like owning a new car!! Lol.

Where did you order them from, and were they a direct swap? Did you have to use any additional hardware, bushings, clips etc?

You really need to get comfortable with using a search, TONS of info out there in this forum on this very topic. This is the best way to search (happens to be a sticky as well):

Alternate Search for T4R - 3rd Gen Section

Of course, there are so many results you may not find this post:

Tip for those that replaced their lift supports for the rear tailgate

And the strongarm 6815's will break your jaw/knock teeth out if you don't get out of the way when opening the hatch. Still true after 3 years, though they have gotten a Little less violent now. You can buy them all over the place online, if you prefer local, just ask whomever you like to shop with if they can get them.

 

[octanejunkie]

And the strongarm 6815's will break your jaw/knock teeth out if you don't get out of the way when opening the hatch.

Not if you only use one strong arm, and one standard strength

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[eternalize]

CV Axle Replacement Issue - 1999 4runner

Howdy everyone,

I am just now having an issue while replacing one of my cv axles on my 1999 4runner. I’ve installed the new cv axle that’s from autozone as youtube videos have instructed but am running into the issue of the inside end of the half shaft having around 2-4mm of linear wiggle. I’ve tried hammering it in more to no avail, only leading to slight mushrooming of the other end because i’ve hammered so much (luckily i was still able to screw on the castle nut with no cross threading).

Is this wiggle normal? Or should I try to reinstall it or replace it?

Here is a youtube video link: 3rd gen toyota 4runner cv axle issue - YouTube

Cheers, let’s hope I can fix this soon and get home!

 

[octanejunkie]

Howdy everyone,



I am just now having an issue while replacing one of my cv axles on my 1999 4runner. I’ve installed the new cv axle that’s from autozone as youtube videos have instructed but am running into the issue of the inside end of the half shaft having around 2-4mm of linear wiggle. I’ve tried hammering it in more to no avail, only leading to slight mushrooming of the other end because i’ve hammered so much (luckily i was still able to screw on the castle nut with no cross threading).



Is this wiggle normal? Or should I try to reinstall it or replace it?



Here is a youtube video link: 3rd gen toyota 4runner cv axle issue - YouTube



Cheers, let’s hope I can fix this soon and get home!

Seems like a fair amount of wiggle, how does it drive? Any unusual feedback or noise?

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[Thatyotaguy]

Hi guys new joiner here. I have a question for you guys. I bought a 97 hilux surf from Japan. I just picked it up and right off the bat it will not move in any gear. However if I put it in 4 high it goes right into gear and moves perfectly. Once i disengage 4wd again no gears. What do I need to look at? Thank you in advance.

 

[Brian.]

Hi guys new joiner here. I have a question for you guys. I bought a 97 hilux surf from Japan. I just picked it up and right off the bat it will not move in any gear. However if I put it in 4 high it goes right into gear and moves perfectly. Once i disengage 4wd again no gears. What do I need to look at? Thank you in advance.

Seems to me the most likely would be a transfer case or driveshaft issue to the rear wheels. So putting it into 4hi making you FWD (nothing to the rear wheels). Could be something as simple as a disconnected (or missing) driveshaft done for transport purposes....

 

[Bad Luck]

Hi guys new joiner here. I have a question for you guys. I bought a 97 hilux surf from Japan. I just picked it up and right off the bat it will not move in any gear. However if I put it in 4 high it goes right into gear and moves perfectly. Once i disengage 4wd again no gears. What do I need to look at? Thank you in advance.

Have you verified there is a rear driveshaft? If there is have you tried pushing the vehicle with the transmission in park (or in 1st gear with the engine off and parking brake released if it's a manual)? If it moves then you either have a problem with the transfer case or the rear diff. If it moves when you push it and the rear driveshaft doesn't move then you have a problem with the rear axle/diff. If it moves when you push it and the rear driveshaft rotates then you have a problem with the transfer case.

 

[Will816]

I'm picking up a 98 SR5 4x4 3.4L manual with 205k miles on Saturday, anything I should look for? I'll be checking the usual spots for any used car (wetness at bell housing, rust, etc.) but let me know if there's anything in particular to look for.

This isn't my first 3rd gen rodeo, I had a 98 base with the 3RZ and manual about 15 years ago, I just don't want to miss anything important.

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm picking up a 98 SR5 4x4 3.4L manual with 205k miles on Saturday, anything I should look for? I'll be checking the usual spots for any used car (wetness at bell housing, rust, etc.) but let me know if there's anything in particular to look for.

This isn't my first 3rd gen rodeo, I had a 98 base with the 3RZ and manual about 15 years ago, I just don't want to miss anything important.

I usually bring a 10mm on a ratchet so I can loosen the top timing cover and look at the timing belt condition. Check the rear wheels/drums for wetness which would most likely indicate a bad rear axle seal. Check the all windows (especially rear) and locks to verify function. If the radiator plastic is brown then plan on replacing the radiator as well.

 

[octanejunkie]

I usually bring a 10mm on a ratchet so I can loosen the top timing cover and look at the timing belt condition. Check the rear wheels/drums for wetness which would most likely indicate a bad rear axle seal. Check the all windows (especially rear) and locks to verify function. If the radiator plastic is brown then plan on replacing the radiator as well.

As best as you can, check all oil seals and behind the heads for valve cover gasket leaks, and oil leaks in general

Look at the transmission and transfer cases for signs of seepage as well as both front and rear differentials and axles.

I would plan on replacing brakes, lower ball joints and almost all the suspension rubber if it hasn't been updated yet. Radiator and timing belt are on 100,000 mile replacement intervals, so if the seller can't validate when those were last done you can plan on them as well.

Check for weird electrical issues, resistance and corrosion - like if they say they just replaced the battery and the alternator I'd be a little concerned just to exactly why.

Sunroof, make sure it works in all directions, window and wiper functions from the dash as well as from the rear liftgate key cylinder. If the ignition key does not open the glove box then it's very likely that they replace the cylinders and the keys cannot be made from the VIN number.

Aside from overall condition, cosmetics and interior cleanliness I expect to put between $3,000 to $5,000 into a vehicle that old to freshen it up

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[Will816]

As best as you can, check all oil seals and behind the heads for valve cover gasket leaks, and oil leaks in general

Look at the transmission and transfer cases for signs of seepage as well as both front and rear differentials and axles.

I would plan on replacing brakes, lower ball joints and almost all the suspension rubber if it hasn't been updated yet. Radiator and timing belt are on 100,000 mile replacement intervals, so if the seller can't validate when those were last done you can plan on them as well.

Check for weird electrical issues, resistance and corrosion - like if they say they just replaced the battery and the alternator I'd be a little concerned just to exactly why.

Sunroof, make sure it works in all directions, window and wiper functions from the dash as well as from the rear liftgate key cylinder. If the ignition key does not open the glove box then it's very likely that they replace the cylinders and the keys cannot be made from the VIN number.

Aside from overall condition, cosmetics and interior cleanliness I expect to put between $3,000 to $5,000 into a vehicle that old to freshen it up

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Thanks for all of the specifics. I do expect to put some money into it. My wife wants it so I might also need to make it "cute." At the very least, I'll be swapping for the newer center console with cup holders and wrapping the chrome.

Carfax indicates the timing belt was changed for the first time in 2013 at 147k miles, no notes about the water pump with it. Rack and pinion, front shocks and ball joints replaced at 157k. Typical oil changes and brakes since then (205k now). No notes on the clutch but I'll test it.

It was in San Antonio and El Paso until 2017 and then western Washington after that so it's likely never been exposed to salt.

 

[Devbot]

Do the cone shaped bump stops HAVE to be used if you want to use a trim packer?
I removed and threw away my cones a month ago but just realized my coils are buzzing/vibrating horribly without them (impossible to hear with the rear window up). I jumped the gun and bought some trim packers to block the metal-on-metal contact but not only did I receive the wrong sized trim packer, I'm just now seeing people recommend you use the OEM cones to keep them in place, otherwise they tend to fall out especially when flexing. I don't really doubt seeing they're just a urethane ring - but can anyone confirm this first hand?
If it's true then I simply won't bother with trim packers and will pick up a used set of cones, but if not then I'll gladly return the ones I got and look for the correct size

 

[octanejunkie]

Do the cone shaped bump stops HAVE to be used if you want to use a trim packer?
I removed and threw away my cones a month ago but just realized my coils are buzzing/vibrating horribly without them (impossible to hear with the rear window up). I jumped the gun and bought some trim packers to block the metal-on-metal contact but not only did I receive the wrong sized trim packer, I'm just now seeing people recommend you use the OEM cones to keep them in place, otherwise they tend to fall out especially when flexing. I don't really doubt seeing they're just a urethane ring - but can anyone confirm this first hand?
If it's true then I simply won't bother with trim packers and will pick up a used set of cones, but if not then I'll gladly return the ones I got and look for the correct size

Spring + trim packer + donkey dick

You need it

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[Devbot]

Spring + trim packer + donkey dick

You need it

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Well, there goes $10! At least I can use one of them to correct out some lean maybe (I forgot 210v are front LC coils and ordered trim packers for rear LC coils)

 

[TexasCW]

Problem with Ignition, or lack of.

Gentlemen, I need help. I'm completely in love with my '99 Limited for over 10 years after she was gifted to me by my Dad (with 120,000 miles), who bought it new. Minor problems and minor upgrades for my daily driver/work truck until today when she hit 244000 miles. After work I loaded up the wife, daughter, and granddaughter for a trip to Wallymart and then dinner. When we arrived at Wallymart I shut the truck off. My Daughter asked me if I would turn it back on while she changed a diaper (103 today in Central Texas) so I obliged only for nothing to happen. No "Hey idiot, put your seat belt on" dinging, no dome lights, nothing. I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago and did check the cable connection to the starter then and today. Cleaned the terminals when I put the new battery in (and again today), went through the fuse panel and box (just to be sure), and dropped the dash panel and wiggled wires/checked connections while waiting for the tow truck to show up. All the connectors are clean with no corrosion and everything under the dash was dusty but nothing abnormal. Things I have noticed are the shifter bushings are probably completely gone by now and the entire stick is wobbly (have everything and was going to replace all those this weekend), and the ignition switch is also loose/wobbly. My first inclination is the ignition switch has gone out after only 23 years of use but I may be overlooking something else. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[Bad Luck]

Gentlemen, I need help. I'm completely in love with my '99 Limited for over 10 years after she was gifted to me by my Dad (with 120,000 miles), who bought it new. Minor problems and minor upgrades for my daily driver/work truck until today when she hit 244000 miles. After work I loaded up the wife, daughter, and granddaughter for a trip to Wallymart and then dinner. When we arrived at Wallymart I shut the truck off. My Daughter asked me if I would turn it back on while she changed a diaper (103 today in Central Texas) so I obliged only for nothing to happen. No "Hey idiot, put your seat belt on" dinging, no dome lights, nothing. I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago and did check the cable connection to the starter then and today. Cleaned the terminals when I put the new battery in (and again today), went through the fuse panel and box (just to be sure), and dropped the dash panel and wiggled wires/checked connections while waiting for the tow truck to show up. All the connectors are clean with no corrosion and everything under the dash was dusty but nothing abnormal. Things I have noticed are the shifter bushings are probably completely gone by now and the entire stick is wobbly (have everything and was going to replace all those this weekend), and the ignition switch is also loose/wobbly. My first inclination is the ignition switch has gone out after only 23 years of use but I may be overlooking something else. Anybody have any ideas?

To clarify, you turn the key and nothing happens? No dash lights? Does the horn work and headlights turn on?