The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Anyone with a TBU upgrade to an FJ80 master cylinder?

Big Bore FJ80 Brake Master Cylinder | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
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I think so, but I'm not entirely sure. I know 1st gen Sequoia is 15/16" bore.

I'm almost positive it is, just from seeing this conversation come up so many times. If I'm not wrong the bigger difference is in the booster but I'm also speaking from my ass
Cant remember who but there was some lad on Instagram that did a complete TBU swap including the master and booster and that SOB stopped like he flipped on a Jake brake, even with +500lbs of gear
 
High engine rev in park following aftermarket radio install

Hey hoping y'all can guide me to the right solution as I haven't seen anyone yet after searching the forums who has had this problem. Got a problem I created for myself. Not particularly handy in general but thought I could handle this since it seemed pretty straightforward.

1998 3.4 SR5 LTD 210k miles. I recently took out the stock radio and put in a touch screen one with airplay so I wouldn't have to fiddle with wires etc. (not sure if it matters but heres the link to the radio Amazon.com: JENSEN J1CA7W 7-inch Touch Screen Double DIN Car Stereo Media Receiver, Wireless or Wired Apple CarPlay & Android Auto, Built-in Bluetooth, Backup Camera Input, USB Playback & Charge, Sirius XM Ready : Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry) I used the metra harness to do the connections (Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker : Electronics) and everything seemed to go ok per this video I followed (1996 - 2002 Toyota 4runner Stereo Install and Backup Camera - YouTube). The one error I realized (I'm sure there are some I haven't realized) in hindsight was I didn't unplug the battery before getting started.

The radio lit up and everything looked good but when I started the car up the engine immediately rev'd up to 3k RPM and climbing. I've left it running for 15-20 seconds and it seems to just keep creeping up, let it go to 5k (hoping things would resolve) before turning the engine off. I've started it couple more times and same issue. I unplugged the new radio completely and the problem remains. Looked around the forums/internet searches and hoped it was the EFI fuse so unplugged that for 30 min and that didn't solve it. I'm guessing I shorted something or blew a fuse but at a loss as to where to start troubleshooting.
 
Hey hoping y'all can guide me to the right solution as I haven't seen anyone yet after searching the forums who has had this problem. Got a problem I created for myself. Not particularly handy in general but thought I could handle this since it seemed pretty straightforward.

1998 3.4 SR5 LTD 210k miles. I recently took out the stock radio and put in a touch screen one with airplay so I wouldn't have to fiddle with wires etc. (not sure if it matters but heres the link to the radio Amazon.com: JENSEN J1CA7W 7-inch Touch Screen Double DIN Car Stereo Media Receiver, Wireless or Wired Apple CarPlay & Android Auto, Built-in Bluetooth, Backup Camera Input, USB Playback & Charge, Sirius XM Ready : Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry) I used the metra harness to do the connections (Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker : Electronics) and everything seemed to go ok per this video I followed (1996 - 2002 Toyota 4runner Stereo Install and Backup Camera - YouTube). The one error I realized (I'm sure there are some I haven't realized) in hindsight was I didn't unplug the battery before getting started.

The radio lit up and everything looked good but when I started the car up the engine immediately rev'd up to 3k RPM and climbing. I've left it running for 15-20 seconds and it seems to just keep creeping up, let it go to 5k (hoping things would resolve) before turning the engine off. I've started it couple more times and same issue. I unplugged the new radio completely and the problem remains. Looked around the forums/internet searches and hoped it was the EFI fuse so unplugged that for 30 min and that didn't solve it. I'm guessing I shorted something or blew a fuse but at a loss as to where to start troubleshooting.
Make sure there is nothing keeping the gas pedal pressed down. If that is clear then remove the intake tube to the throttle body and check if it is closed 98ish percent. If it's not try to rotate the throttle closed by hand.
 
Make sure there is nothing keeping the gas pedal pressed down. If that is clear then remove the intake tube to the throttle body and check if it is closed 98ish percent. If it's not try to rotate the throttle closed by hand.
Check the Throttle Position Sensor and connection at the same time. Clean your MAF sensor and air filter while the intake tube is off

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Check the Throttle Position Sensor and connection at the same time. Clean your MAF sensor and air filter while the intake tube is off

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I'm not the one that needs quoted. If mis-quotes were friendly fire you'd have killed me by now
 
Make sure there is nothing keeping the gas pedal pressed down. If that is clear then remove the intake tube to the throttle body and check if it is closed 98ish percent. If it's not try to rotate the throttle closed by hand.

I'm a doofus and stuffed the drivers side floor mat right on top of the pedal...I thought it was something more complicated but you got it right away. Thanks guys
 
Hello! I am trying to upgrade my struts and shocks. I have a 1998 sr5 2wd 4runnner and I'd like to keep the original ride height but it's pretty bumpy original leaky struts. I would like a nice smooth ride quality, I have heard the kyb is a good oem brand for 4runners i want the best bang for the buck performance struts. Also considering pairing it with the durobump bump stops. Preferably a complete strut assembly so I can just slap it on myself. Having a hard time finding a complete strut assembly at a reasonable price, allot of them say 4wd not sure if that would be compatible with my application. Thanks for any info!

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I'm a doofus and stuffed the drivers side floor mat right on top of the pedal...I thought it was something more complicated but you got it right away. Thanks guys

I've done this a few times... actually just did it maybe a week ago :pound: It's really funny how you immediately jump to mechanical problems, then feel an wave immediate relief when you look down
 
Having a hard time finding a complete strut assembly at a reasonable price, allot of them say 4wd not sure if that would be compatible with my application. Thanks for any info!

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4WD coils are (or should be) stiffer to accommodate for the extra weight of the front diff and driveline, just so you know. They'd probably work but wouldn't be as comfortable as they can be
If you want the best bang for your buck, you should check out hydraulic bump stops :wof:
 
4WD coils are (or should be) stiffer to accommodate for the extra weight of the front diff and driveline, just so you know. They'd probably work but wouldn't be as comfortable as they can be

If you want the best bang for your buck, you should check out hydraulic bump stops :wof:
The hydraulic bump stops look pretty cool! Would that work on a stock ride height truck though?

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Solid post.

I'll just stick to updating my stupid build thread and leave the helping people to others.

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I’m bringing to your attention that you keep quoting me even though I’m not the one you are responding to. Don’t let me stop you from helping others just please stop quoting me when it’s not meant for me. This is about the 5th or 6th time you’ve done it. I don’t want the person the information is intended for to miss out on something that could potentially be important to them.
 
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