The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Brian.]

Whats the cost for completely rust free frames these days?

No indication of frame rust (good or bad), but I see similar posted every week or two down here around Atlanta, and from personal experience there's just not much in the way of frame rust on vehicles in this region unless they're parked in a mud pit.

98 Toyota 4Runner SR5 four-wheel drive - cars & trucks - by owner -...

$2200 for a complete, good condition, parts vehicle or $1000 for a less complete version:

Toyota 4runner SR5 1995 - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive...

And another complete with bad engine for $2k:

2002 Toyota 4Runner - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive...


I've seen countless numbers of vehicles that were privately parted where they just scrapped the frame (and body) along with anything that didn't sell. Bet those frames go for scrap value....

4~6k is the price of a reasonable condition, 350k mile 4x4 down around me.

 

[3rdGenFanatic]

Hey guys, my ride quality is awful, you can feel every bump trasnfer into the vehicle rattling pannels. I found the Monroe oe spectrum struts and springs on rockauto. My model is a 1998 automatic rwd. I'm looking for a nice ride and reduced road harshness at stock height. Do you think this would be a good option?

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[brillo_76]

Thanks [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] and [MENTION=630023]Brain[/MENTION]. For giving me a ballpark. I think the issue would be the shipping. There is advantages to living in rust free areas.

It would be a costly adventure for the rust belt. Granted, it would solve the rot issues if properly taken care of.

I definitely have to think about that for parts mobiles...

Granted we be going the other way. Lower milage drivetrains into clean chassis..

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[Brian.]

Hey guys, my ride quality is awful, you can feel every bump trasnfer into the vehicle rattling pannels. I found the Monroe oe spectrum struts and springs on rockauto. My model is a 1998 automatic rwd. I'm looking for a nice ride and reduced road harshness at stock height. Do you think this would be a good option?

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I think that sounds like the definition of "Garbage in, Garbage out". And you're probably missing the Main reasons for ride quality, the ~30 bushings between the suspension and the body that I can almost guarantee are total trash (mine sure were on a '99 with 190k miles 4 years ago). Bushings made a significantly Larger improvement on ride quality than anything else, heck than Everything else combined.

Near as I can tell, the Minimum level of shock that people have had a little positive to say about are the KYB Gas-a-just units, but the Bilstein 4100's are the bottom level where there are nearly no negative remarks.

 

[jrm]

bought an aftermarket key FOB for my 2000 limited. The recommended pairing/programming sequence really seems ridiculous. Is there a shorter route since the FOB only locks/opens the door?




Cheers..

 

[3rdGenFanatic]

Thank you. Okay well then I should address the bushings is there a thread in this forum regarding the 3rd gen suspension in detail? I see there are allot of bushings, I would like to go through and replace as many as I can. Has anyone seen a compiled list of bushings or has a suggested resource guide. Feels like I am pulling straws at this point trying to fix this issue on a small budget as I've already dumped 4k in this 4runner getting the Trans rebuilt, new seats and bfs. Thank you.

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[Bad Luck]

1. bought an aftermarket key FOB for my 2000 limited. The recommended pairing/programming sequence really seems ridiculous. Is there a shorter route since the FOB only locks/opens the door?

2. Performed the ISR mod on the same 2000 Limited and am not following what to do with the vacuum hose. I bought a 1/4 T and some 7/32s hose but i cant find a pic/diagram telling where to use it.


Cheers..

This is the only way I have seen or know of to get into key fob programming mode: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/60925-post2.html Keep in mind you will need all key fobs present to learn and you may need to use an extra key in the driver door lock cylinder to help the door lock actuator out if yours are tired like most of them are now.

 

[party]

alternator sense wire

I'm curious to know what color the alternator sense wire is. In the near future I'm going to be adding a diode to increase my voltage. The reason for this is I will also be installing a 35ah LTO battery bank and deleting the front battery. I just wanted a little knowledge before I start working on it. Thanks!

 

[jrm]

I also have found this simplified version but havent tried it yet How To Program A Toyota 4Runner Remote Key Fob 1999 - 2000 - YouTube

Im pretty sure the truck has the rs 3000 alarm system and has the embossed immobilizer description/warning on the ignition, but i dont think i have the chipped key so im hoping that not having a chipped key the alarm and the immobilizer will be disabled. Id love to permanently disable both but i havent found a way.

 

[jrm]

Relocating ISR Vacuum Hose

Where do i relocate the unused ISR vacuum line after replacing the ISR with a smooth bore piece of aluminum. Does anyone have a pic of the hose relocated on a 2000 3.4?

:beer:

 

[Devbot]

Where do i relocate the unused ISR vacuum line after replacing the ISR with a smooth bore piece of aluminum. Does anyone have a pic of the hose relocated on a 2000 3.4?

:beer:

Why not drill a hole and stick it inside so it's routed all the same?

 

[jrm]

Right now im using a T connecting the vacuum lines and it seems to do the job for the time being.

Its a good idea and i dont have a problem drilling into the tubing but im not sure how to secure a hose barb in the pipe. A threaded barb isnt going to thread very well into the alum tubing b/c of the curvature of the tubing. If i used a splicer/ two ended barb i think it could work but id have to find a way to secure it in the tubing and cut off any excess so that it would be flush with the ID of the tube.

 

[Bad Luck]

I also have found this simplified version but havent tried it yet How To Program A Toyota 4Runner Remote Key Fob 1999 - 2000 - YouTube

Im pretty sure the truck has the rs 3000 alarm system and has the embossed immobilizer description/warning on the ignition, but i dont think i have the chipped key so im hoping that not having a chipped key the alarm and the immobilizer will be disabled. Id love to permanently disable both but i havent found a way.

If you have a Limited then you have an immobilized key. You should have a security light either to the left of the column or by the rear window switch/airbag indicator. The immobilizer and the key fobs/remotes are two separate systems.

Edit: The YouTube video you linked is the same as the programming procedure I linked.

 

[sbag91]

Seeking advice as well.

If you have a Limited then you have an immobilized key. You should have a security light either to the left of the column or by the rear window switch/airbag indicator. The immobilizer and the key fobs/remotes are two separate systems.

Edit: The YouTube video you linked is the same as the programming procedure I linked.

Not the op you were speaking too, but it seems you know your stuff. Wondering if you had any advice. I have a 99 RWD SR5. No alarm or boxes, alarm stickers ect as far as I can tell. Factory pretty much everything...radio ect ect.

like everyone else in that thread I'm also having trouble programming my remotes.

Unlike everyone except for one person in the 22 pages of the sticky, however, I have a different issue.

I can get into programming mode no problem, weather using the key, the actual lock, or the buttons. (must just have some powerhouse ole' actuators?) After that though, whenever I go to actually "sync" the fobs, it just jumps the gun on confirming before I can get the to the last step of hitting the lock once. I can confirm clearing the previous remotes. They obviously do function, because as soon as i hit both lock+unlock, the locks on the vehicle confirm the sync (that is before i can then let up off and hit the unlock by itself. So obviously they are communicating?

Needless to say nothing happens, and I'm at a loss. Maybe I have the wrong fobs?

 

[Devbot]

Right now im using a T connecting the vacuum lines and it seems to do the job for the time being.

Its a good idea and i dont have a problem drilling into the tubing but im not sure how to secure a hose barb in the pipe. A threaded barb isnt going to thread very well into the alum tubing b/c of the curvature of the tubing. If i used a splicer/ two ended barb i think it could work but id have to find a way to secure it in the tubing and cut off any excess so that it would be flush with the ID of the tube.

I mean why not skip the hose barb altogether is what im saying; just drill a hole, add a grommet to make it air tight, stick the hose in and done. It'll look clean and flush and be easily taken apart when need be, no need to overcomplicate things

 

[Bad Luck]

Not the op you were speaking too, but it seems you know your stuff. Wondering if you had any advice. I have a 99 RWD SR5. No alarm or boxes, alarm stickers ect as far as I can tell. Factory pretty much everything...radio ect ect.

like everyone else in that thread I'm also having trouble programming my remotes.

Unlike everyone except for one person in the 22 pages of the sticky, however, I have a different issue.

I can get into programming mode no problem, weather using the key, the actual lock, or the buttons. (must just have some powerhouse ole' actuators?) After that though, whenever I go to actually "sync" the fobs, it just jumps the gun on confirming before I can get the to the last step of hitting the lock once. I can confirm clearing the previous remotes. They obviously do function, because as soon as i hit both lock+unlock, the locks on the vehicle confirm the sync (that is before i can then let up off and hit the unlock by itself. So obviously they are communicating?

Needless to say nothing happens, and I'm at a loss. Maybe I have the wrong fobs?

It sounds like the key fobs have good batteries and are at least on the right frequency. Are you using all new key fobs or a mix of new and old?

If you reference the programming instructions here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/60925-post2.html At what step are you having problems or not getting the correct response/confirmation from the vehicle?

 

[jrm]

steering wheel play

Im on saggy 170k old OE suspension with e rated 265/75/16 toyos. When the suspension moves vertically over something like a driveway curb lip the front suspension i detect some play in the steering wheel. if the truck moves over something say at an angle the suspension wallows like old worn out suspension would after 170k.

Im having a 1.5 /2/0" lift and new LBJs installed and an alignment done tomorrow and am wondering if the cause of the vertical play might be eliminated or maybe its something else altogether..:flipoff:

 

[sbag91]

Really excited to use em' now

It sounds like the key fobs have good batteries and are at least on the right frequency. Are you using all new key fobs or a mix of new and old?

If you reference the programming instructions here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/60925-post2.html At what step are you having problems or not getting the correct response/confirmation from the vehicle?

Sorry about my jumbled post there. I really appreciate your response. I was able to get it to work, but unfortunatly it required a different set.

I ordered 2 For 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 Toyota 4Runner Remote Keyless Entry Key Fob | eBay this set, but they did not work. When I got to the last step, they would unlock/lock cycle the doors twice (to show they didnt sync) instead of once to confirm.

Today i got Amazon.com: Keyless2Go Replacement for New Keyless Entry Remote Car Key Fob 4 Button FCC HYQ12BBX HYQ12BAN (2 Pack) : Automotive This set and they work perfectly the first time.

Again really appreciate the help though, helped me power through it.

 

[spartacus]

Im on saggy 170k old OE suspension with e rated 265/75/16 toyos. When the suspension moves vertically over something like a driveway curb lip the front suspension i detect some play in the steering wheel. if the truck moves over something say at an angle the suspension wallows like old worn out suspension would after 170k.

Im having a 1.5 /2/0" lift and new LBJs installed and an alignment done tomorrow and am wondering if the cause of the vertical play might be eliminated or maybe its something else altogether..:flipoff:

Might as well replace the steering rack bushings. Also the tack weld mod. Steering Play Mod Complete

 

[Bad Luck]

Sorry about my jumbled post there. I really appreciate your response. I was able to get it to work, but unfortunatly it required a different set.

I ordered 2 For 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 Toyota 4Runner Remote Keyless Entry Key Fob | eBay this set, but they did not work. When I got to the last step, they would unlock/lock cycle the doors twice (to show they didnt sync) instead of once to confirm.

Today i got Amazon.com: Keyless2Go Replacement for New Keyless Entry Remote Car Key Fob 4 Button FCC HYQ12BBX HYQ12BAN (2 Pack) : Automotive This set and they work perfectly the first time.

Again really appreciate the help though, helped me power through it.

I'm glad you got it figured out