The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Here’s a dumb question, stick with me as I’m just trying to diagnose some squishy brakes..

When the e-brake is pulled should it lock up the rear wheels? I’m not trying to go Tokyo drift some fire roads but I feel like I really have to pull mine with all my strength to get it to confidently hold the car.

I have adjusted the drums to the best of my abilities what feels like 100 times and I just can’t get a confident pedal feel. Feels like solid braking (still squishy pedal) with the e-brake at 1-2 clicks up. Again just trying to diagnose some shit any help is appreciated
Squishy because you have a tundra brake upgrade?

The factory recommended position for the e-brake lever is 5 to 7 clicks when engaged.

With both rear tires in the air, can you rotate the rear wheel in either direction with a finger when the truck is in neutral, no parking brake?
If you cannot, loosen your rear brake shoes until you can, then go one click tighter on the adjuster.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
Squishy because you have a tundra brake upgrade?

The factory recommended position for the e-brake lever is 5 to 7 clicks when engaged.

With both rear tires in the air, can you rotate the rear wheel in either direction with a finger when the truck is in neutral, no parking brake?
If you cannot, loosen your rear brake shoes until you can, then go one click tighter on the adjuster.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

No Tundra brake upgrade. I have been chasing the squishyness since I got the rig. New MC, cleaned the drums, have bled multiple times and it still feels squishy and like only the fronts are engaging (unless I pull the ebrake 1-2 clicks). I have tried adjusting the rears using as many methods as I can with no help. at 5-7 click it feels like the parking brake is just kind of holding the rear but any throttle would cause it to go forward. I know on my other vehicles if the parking brake is pulled the car wont move an inch with any amount of throttle.
 
No Tundra brake upgrade. I have been chasing the squishyness since I got the rig. New MC, cleaned the drums, have bled multiple times and it still feels squishy and like only the fronts are engaging (unless I pull the ebrake 1-2 clicks). I have tried adjusting the rears using as many methods as I can with no help. at 5-7 click it feels like the parking brake is just kind of holding the rear but any throttle would cause it to go forward. I know on my other vehicles if the parking brake is pulled the car wont move an inch with any amount of throttle.

With the e brake off there should be a slight drag between the shoes and the drum if they are adjusted correctly. I'm on my second 4Runner and I've never been able to pull the parking brake and lock the rear up. If you haven't done a full bleed after activating the abs a couple times I would recommend it.
 
Radio Double Din Brackets - Other Toyotas With Same?

Need a pair of double din brackets for new HU since PO installed Single Din using a metra kit.

Local pick your part has dozens of 2000 (+ -) Camrys, Tercels and Rav4s that from what i can tell came with OE Double Din HUs.

Are the brackets all the same?

Cheers..
 
Here’s a dumb question, stick with me as I’m just trying to diagnose some squishy brakes..

When the e-brake is pulled should it lock up the rear wheels? I’m not trying to go Tokyo drift some fire roads but I feel like I really have to pull mine with all my strength to get it to confidently hold the car.

I have adjusted the drums to the best of my abilities what feels like 100 times and I just can’t get a confident pedal feel. Feels like solid braking (still squishy pedal) with the e-brake at 1-2 clicks up. Again just trying to diagnose some shit any help is appreciated

I'm confused. Are you trying to be confident the ebrake is going to keep your car from moving while parked? Presumably on a hill or something. Or are you wanting to be able to stop the car with the ebrake as well as your brake pedal does?
 
With the e brake off there should be a slight drag between the shoes and the drum if they are adjusted correctly. I'm on my second 4Runner and I've never been able to pull the parking brake and lock the rear up. If you haven't done a full bleed after activating the abs a couple times I would recommend it.

My problem is I cant get the ABS to activate. I have no ABS codes but it just refuses to work. Whether that be the ABS motor priming when you first turn the key to slamming the brakes on a loose road.
 
I'm confused. Are you trying to be confident the ebrake is going to keep your car from moving while parked? Presumably on a hill or something. Or are you wanting to be able to stop the car with the ebrake as well as your brake pedal does?

I would say the latter. I am more just trying to get confirmation that my ebrake is working as it should be and not any less
 
Ok so my 02 4Runner VSCTRAC and VSCOFF lights are illuminated. I took it to the dealer and they are said it needed a new 02 sensor. Got them to replace it. 5 days later the lights pop up again and the dealer is now saying it needs another type of sensor and a new catalytic converter. My question is, at this point, should I stop worrying about the VSC System and just get a rear locker or something? Or is there a way to bypass all of this emissions stuff to get the VSC Trac to work? I want the vehicle to be safe. Opinions and advice are welcome. Thx.
 
Ok so my 02 4Runner VSCTRAC and VSCOFF lights are illuminated. I took it to the dealer and they are said it needed a new 02 sensor. Got them to replace it. 5 days later the lights pop up again and the dealer is now saying it needs another type of sensor and a new catalytic converter. My question is, at this point, should I stop worrying about the VSC System and just get a rear locker or something? Or is there a way to bypass all of this emissions stuff to get the VSC Trac to work? I want the vehicle to be safe. Opinions and advice are welcome. Thx.
The VSC system and a rear locker are two entirely different things. What codes are still set and which oxygen sensor did they replace?
 
I topped off my power steering fluid but still when I turn the wheel all the way it whines as if the fluid is low. I double-checked and the reservoir is definitely full.
 
I'm going to be be performing a tune-up on my new-to-me '97. Planned items are:
  • Oil and filter change
  • Diff Fluid change
  • Air filter
  • Spark plugs and wires
  • Fuel filter
  • PCV valve
  • O2 sensors
  • Clean MAF and IAC valve

Am I missing anything in terms of drivetrain maintenance? Drive belts and coolant flush? Do ignition coils need to be replaced along with the plugs and wires?

Next, what are the non-drivetrain maintenance items that I need to be aware of? (~226k miles)

Also, thoughts on seafoam?

Thanks.
 
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I'm going to be be performing a tune-up on my new-to-me '97. Planned items are:
  • Oil and filter change
  • Diff Fluid change
  • Air filter
  • Spark plugs and wires
  • Fuel filter
  • PCV valve
  • O2 sensors
  • Clean MAF and IAC valve

Am I missing anything in terms of drivetrain maintenance? Drive belts and coolant flush? Do ignition coils need to be replaced along with the plugs and wires?

Next, what are the non-drivetrain maintenance items that I need to be aware of? (~226k miles)

Also, thoughts on seafoam?

Thanks.

Depends how well you know the maintenance. I bought my '97 form an original owner who did literally nothing to it for 168K miles. If yours is the same, or you don't know what was or wasn't done, I'd add a few things to your list:

Timing belt (w/drive belts, water pump, tensioner, idler, etc)
Radiator (if original)
Grease u-joints
Likely replace valve cover gaskets
 
Lbj

Hi there, I’ve got a 2001 limited 4Runner 4wd and I just did lbj’s about 1000 miles ago, about a week after I did them my driver side strut started leaking and blew out causing my driver side lower balljoint to start leaking “minor amount” and I had to drive on it for about a month and a half before I could replace my suspension and other suspension components, my question here is, should I be good to keep driving on it or should I replace it? It still has grease in it and it doesn’t leak much at all, am I just overthinking it
 
Anyone got any tips for removing a CV axle by yourself? Mine will NOT come out of the differential no matter how hard I pry at it or smack it with a drift - I feel what I need is someone to pull/wiggle the axle while I try to pop it out, but I'm gonna be without help for some time :(
I've been trying to find little tips and tricks for doing so online, but everyone just seems to get lucky and has it come out with a little bump
Also, thoughts on seafoam?

Thanks.

Seafoam is a meme, it's just naphtha and IPA mixed with pale oil. Redline SI-1 or BG44k Platinum is what you want, or any cleaner with PEA - the ones advertised for GDI engines typically have way more in them. Gumout makes some good stuff too, or used to rather; I liked their One-N-Done before they got rid of it (you can still find it sold occasionally though)
At any rate you'll have to use several bottles back to back to see any difference, not just one like they always recommend. Redline cleaned my valves like nobody's business but it was after running a few bottles through consistently
 
Anyone got any tips for removing a CV axle by yourself? Mine will NOT come out of the differential no matter how hard I pry at it or smack it with a drift - I feel what I need is someone to pull/wiggle the axle while I try to pop it out, but I'm gonna be without help for some time :(
I've been trying to find little tips and tricks for doing so online, but everyone just seems to get lucky and has it come out with a little bump

knock a thin chisel/screwdriver into one side of the CV end at the diff and use a pry bar on the other side from the bottom looking up at the engine, that will stop the deflection happening that's stopping the snap ring from straight out and not putting the force at an angle.
 
I topped off my power steering fluid but still when I turn the wheel all the way it whines as if the fluid is low. I double-checked and the reservoir is definitely full.
There’s a screen in the power steering fluid reservoir that gets gunked up. Remove the reservoir, clean the screen with carb cleaner, and then reinstall with a new o ring and fill to the correct level.
 
There’s a screen in the power steering fluid reservoir that gets gunked up. Remove the reservoir, clean the screen with carb cleaner, and then reinstall with a new o ring and fill to the correct level.
I want to do this, need pn for the o-ring. A write up or vid would help, too...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

I want to do this, need pn for the o-ring. A write up or vid would help, too...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I've got the same part number as what Spiker Engineering posted. I will add that I had to plug two openings on the bottom of the reservoir and fill it with brake cleaner to soak for a while. Vigorously shaking the brake cleaner in the reservoir also helps get the screen clean. You can check your progress by shining a flashlight through the fluid out hole (the one with the o ring) and looking into the reservoir through the fill hole.
 
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