The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
- Thread starter da_crew10
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1. If you're going to add weight, get some springs that can actually handle it. I have some Eibach Pro-Lift springs that give a 2.5" lift stock but with my bumper, I have about a 2" give or take. However, I had to add a TPS to level out the lean. Take a look at the 883s or similar if you add weight.
2. From my understanding, trim packers are used to fix lean mainly but they add lift.
I used a top plate spacer to fix my lean on my driver front, which gave me about .5" of extra lift. I also used a 20mm trim packer for a 80 Series Cruiser on my 891s to fix the lean. 881/906 would be pretty level I think, personally I like .5"-1" of rake but that's just me due to how much weight I carry. I would go 881/890s but if you don't want that, 881/906 w/ a trim packer or two would look good to me.
3. LBJs are for sure vital to replace; only OEMs w/ new bolts. It's just not worth the risk going aftermarket.
Your UCA's should be okay. However, you may run in alignment issues if you have other worn bushings like your LCAs. (mine didn't align properly without changing those after my lift) If you haven't done your CV axles, they will probably rip once you add that lift. I recommend replacing anything you think should be replaced BEFORE you add your lift (tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc) so you can fully enjoy it.
4. Why do you want spacers? Just curious is all.
I have some Spidertrax 1.25 spacers on my rig with stock 5-stars. They look good, makes it have a flush stance. You may run into rubbing with your backspacing + spacers. (at-least I think so. Correct me if I'm wrong.)
5. Lots of variables to consider. I personally run 33-34PSI in the front 32-33 in the back on my 265/75R16 E-Load KO2s. (same size as your 17s but a 16" wheel)Do yourself a chalk test to determine what PSI to run that gives you the best tire wear.
Sorry for the lengthy response, hope it helps
Thank you for this response!
I keep hearing that the 906s are borderline too high, so I'm hesitant to get the trim packers for the rear, even though I do want some rake.
And I want spacers just for a more aggressive look. Isn't that their only purpose? I was just wondering what are my limits with my suspension setup and if there are any other factors I should consider. Do you have the spacers all around?
Storm01
Member
Nah, they aren't too tall. 906's give about 2" of lift. My 891s gave me about 3" give or take half an inch with all my gear and armor. I would add one trim packer to the driver side just incase of lean and/or settling.
Also yes, I run spacers front and rear. If you're going to get spacers, get some that are HUB-CENTRIC not LUG-CENTRIC. Spacers can help fit wider tires like 285 33s. (on stock wheels) With your 4.5" backspacing, you would be at the same stance as mine with stock wheels and spacers. If you would like, I can post a pic of my rig with my setup for you.
Since this is the thread for all questions, here's mine: is there way to attach a Baofeng radio to the driver side A pillar grab handle? I wonder if RAM has a grab handle mount for 1" ball ?
Search came up with too many threads [emoji16]
Thanks.
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Search came up with too many threads [emoji16]
Thanks.
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I haven't done this, but I think this is what you are wanting:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3610811-post8.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3610872-post10.html
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I want to mod my shifter, bend the shaft more forward to keep the shift lever from hitting my coffee cup.
Anyone do this?
Also, considering a URD short shifter
Any reason not to?
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Anyone do this?
Also, considering a URD short shifter
Any reason not to?
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Devbot
New member
Personally I would just heat it up and bend it before getting a whole new shifter. Any reason that isn't an option? I'm automatic so I'm obviously not familiar with our sticks, but that's how it's most commonly done with custom crawlers when fitting a trans swap
Yes please! What size are spacers?
And my wheels are not stock. I don't know the stock offset and backspace but my new wheels are 0 offset, 4.5 backspace, and 267/70/17s.
I would heat it and bend it. Try to bend it where the boot will cover it because heat will definitely discolor/remove the paint on it.
My brother has a 1st gen tacoma with a urd short throw shifter and I hate it. It makes all the synchros feel really stiff and I'm not a fan of the overall reduced movement between shift points. Keep in mind when you reduce the throw you increase the felt effort (torque/power/force) required to overcome the synchros.
Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
I have the URD shifter and got it because of where I mount my phone in my preferred spot near the center dash bezel below the left vent to keep that vent unobstructed. The shift knob was too close to the phone when in first gear, and also having tall cups in the front cup holder would make contact. It just clears both comfortably and I think the short shifter still shifts as smooth as before. It takes a minute to get used to the reduced throw, but I wouldn’t want to get rid of it at this point, FWIW.
I think they go on sale around Black Friday, so now would be the time to get one if you’re in the market. I could see bending the shaft being a viable option for you if the cup holder is the only thing you’re concerned about clearing.
Neither of the links is showing me a grab handle radio holder [emoji848]
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I thought you were trying to find a 1" ram mount for the grab handle. I'll just go **** myself.
Storm01
Member
My spacers are 1.25”. Yours will be equivalent to stock wheels with 1.25” spacers with that backspacing. Here’s my rig with a 3”-3.5” rear lift and a 2” lift + a 1” BL with 32s. So essentially a 4” lift in the back and a 3” in the front.
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Chrischrimbus
New member
Here's a few questions... I have a weird front end clunk when taking a turn hard, or pulling onto the highway from a really curved onramp. I looked at a few other threads and they have pointed me in the right direction, but I feel like I'm just throwing parts at the problem.
It feels like a popping sound, almost like metal being slapped onto metal, or abrupt shifting of two parts. I've replaced the LBJs, steering rack is new OEM, new outer tie rods, and made sure all the bolts are properly torqued. The sway bar bushings are pretty worn, but I can't imagine that's the sound I'm hearing. There doesn't seem to be metal contact at that point anyways, at least where the bushings are located. I could be wrong though.
Another question I had was about inconsistent brake pedal feel. Whenever I press the brakes, the grab point is either too high, or normal. I can force the issue to happen if I drive the car around normally, then idle in park or don't move in drive for 5 minutes, then drive again. As soon as I'm backing out, or pulling away in drive after idling, the brakes are extremely sensitive and grab high.
The booster appears to be working correctly, and the master cylinder has rust drip marks around the booster connection, but the fluid is at the correct level. The wheel bearings are also seemingly okay, and don't make a sound. I'm a bit frustrated since its hard to modulate the brakes and be consistent. It feels like I'm about to be thrown through my window, almost like the brakes are too good. I know this is a weird thing to complain about, but it doesn't feel right. Thanks for whoever looks at this and responds.
Edit - I figured out the problem for both the issues I was having. The popping sound/clunk that I had was from badly worn sway bar bushings, the bar was slipping out and slamming the bracket that held it to the top area. The brake issue turned out to be a badly adjusted brake booster adjusting rod. It was pushed out way too forward. There’s a video on YouTube that helped me figure this out, it’s called “Brake booster checks, operation and push rod adjustment #1313”, by Andy Mechanic.
I wanted to update this in case anyone finds this thread and has a similar problem.
It feels like a popping sound, almost like metal being slapped onto metal, or abrupt shifting of two parts. I've replaced the LBJs, steering rack is new OEM, new outer tie rods, and made sure all the bolts are properly torqued. The sway bar bushings are pretty worn, but I can't imagine that's the sound I'm hearing. There doesn't seem to be metal contact at that point anyways, at least where the bushings are located. I could be wrong though.
Another question I had was about inconsistent brake pedal feel. Whenever I press the brakes, the grab point is either too high, or normal. I can force the issue to happen if I drive the car around normally, then idle in park or don't move in drive for 5 minutes, then drive again. As soon as I'm backing out, or pulling away in drive after idling, the brakes are extremely sensitive and grab high.
The booster appears to be working correctly, and the master cylinder has rust drip marks around the booster connection, but the fluid is at the correct level. The wheel bearings are also seemingly okay, and don't make a sound. I'm a bit frustrated since its hard to modulate the brakes and be consistent. It feels like I'm about to be thrown through my window, almost like the brakes are too good. I know this is a weird thing to complain about, but it doesn't feel right. Thanks for whoever looks at this and responds.
Edit - I figured out the problem for both the issues I was having. The popping sound/clunk that I had was from badly worn sway bar bushings, the bar was slipping out and slamming the bracket that held it to the top area. The brake issue turned out to be a badly adjusted brake booster adjusting rod. It was pushed out way too forward. There’s a video on YouTube that helped me figure this out, it’s called “Brake booster checks, operation and push rod adjustment #1313”, by Andy Mechanic.
I wanted to update this in case anyone finds this thread and has a similar problem.
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You're correct but the links you provided do not show me those items. Ultimately, I would like to be able to amount a radio on those mounts for the grab handles.
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Here's a link to the RAM M6 ball stud mount - RAM(R) Tough-Ball™ with M6-1 x 6mm Threaded Stud – RAM Mounts
Thank you but I'm looking to mount a RAM to the grab handle and not seeing it.
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