The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Don't forget at absolute MOST, your rear drums will only account for 20% of your braking force.
As said it's a parking brake, not a handbrake - and even then it does a very mediocre job when functioning properly. If you think it's supposed to lock up your rear end, you're very mistaken.
 
Anyone parting out 3rd gen stuff or know someone who is? I need a replacement license plate bezel. I guess the brutal winter in Virginia this year has decided to claim mine and needs changing asap. I've already reached out to a reputable source but am awaiting response.
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Cheese and crust! Did your rear hatch catch fire?


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Cheese and crust! Did your rear hatch catch fire?


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Negative. Just lots of salt from the roads being treated. The thing is 21 years old after all. I hope to find one that says 4Runner on it like my first rig had.

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3rd Gen T4R - REAR AXLE Replacement

Howdy everyone,

I'm curious, is there a rear axle replacement video or guide on here or YT?

I'm back again, but this time a larger question - recently got in a wreck with my 1999 4Runner Limited 4x4 e-locker (at this point I'm just putting everything here haha) where I slammed my rear driver's side wheel on a curb and it snapped the axle clean off and ripped half of my drum brake off. After assessing the damage I'm almost certain that I need to replace the entire rear axle as the mounting point for the four bolts that would screw the drum brake (and the half axle - which I'm unsure on what it's called) is bent, leaving a millimeter gap between the axle housing and the back of the drum brake.

Is there a 3rd Gen 4Runner rear axle replacement video/guide? Or has anyone on here done it? I'm thinking it's just a simple job if I use a lift - anything helps.
 
3rd Gen T4R - REAR AXLE Replacement Tutorial?

Hey all,

I'm curious if someone could lead me to a post, guide, or video on here or YT that would guide me through replacing the rear axle on my 1999 Limited 4Runner. Furthermore, which rear axles are compatible with my 4runner. On FB marketplace, I found a rear axle with an e locker that's from a similar mileage bone stock 97 runner that's also limited - wondering if it'll fit.

This all happened when I was in a wreck recently where my car ended up slamming the rear driver's side wheel into a curb - where that wheel's axle promptly decided to shear clean off and tear my drum break in two, leaving that side of my axle housing slightly bent.

Stay safe out there, hopefully I can buy her back from the insurance company and we'll be back in business soon. Any tips on that process would be much appreciated too - first insurance claim here too.

Best wishes,
fella that crashed his runner
 

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Thinking about regretfully selling out......

How much would you try to get for a 98 with a ton of new parts, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, water pump, all suspension parts and more.

Also including a elocked rear and matching front diff.

Tranny started making a clicking noise, have a lower milage replacement also.

ZERO rust.
 
Thinking about regretfully selling out......

How much would you try to get for a 98 with a ton of new parts, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, water pump, all suspension parts and more.

Also including a elocked rear and matching front diff.

Tranny started making a clicking noise, have a lower milage replacement also.

ZERO rust.
It's literally what the market will bear

Where are you located?

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Don't forget at absolute MOST, your rear drums will only account for 20% of your braking force.
As said it's a parking brake, not a handbrake - and even then it does a very mediocre job when functioning properly. If you think it's supposed to lock up your rear end, you're very mistaken.

That is completely understood, while I am not trying to send my truck sideways I am trying to use it when on trails and currently it will not help.

Out of the 5 3rd gens I have been able to drive all had stiff brakes and 100% would lock the rear tires when the parking brake was engaged (again testing for diagnosing mine, no drifting) This youtube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGlwymH7Wio&t=6s) and the other trucks I have driven is what I am basing my poor functioning rear brakes off of.
 
Coolant leak on drivers side of the vehicle more towards the rear

Hey guys,

I am having a coolant leak that is pretty major. I have gone through 5L in the past 2-3 weeks. From what I see the coolant is leaving from the oil cooler. I have also tested my theory by running the truck till it warms to allow coolant to go to the oil cooler and I found a few drops on the cooler.

Every where above the oil cooler is dry.

The oil cooler pipes look fine and dry. Is there any possibility that the oil cooler is cracked? I have been reading some threads and all I can find is oil leaking from the oil cooler never coolant.



Anyone have any ideas? Or does my theory make sense?
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Hey guys,

I am having a coolant leak that is pretty major. I have gone through 5L in the past 2-3 weeks. From what I see the coolant is leaving from the oil cooler. I have also tested my theory by running the truck till it warms to allow coolant to go to the oil cooler and I found a few drops on the cooler.

Every where above the oil cooler is dry.

The oil cooler pipes look fine and dry. Is there any possibility that the oil cooler is cracked? I have been reading some threads and all I can find is oil leaking from the oil cooler never coolant.



Anyone have any ideas? Or does my theory make sense?
PHP:
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Oil cooler cracking would be unlikely. The oil cooler has two orings which can leak. Take the cooler off and check it.
 
Replaced Servo Still No Heat?! Any help would be much appreciated!

Hey guys! New member here, but have found this forum to be so helpful so far!

I have a 2000 4runner limited-just rolled over 200k, and she still drives like a dream. After some clicking underneath the passenger side dash, linked the problem to the servo just about the time the heat went out. Ordered the replacement part, and installed myself with no problem.
Only issue now, is I still don't have heat. I have combed through threads and seen some discussions about the heat control valve under the hood associated with servo problems. Can anyone help me out with this?
 
Hey guys! New member here, but have found this forum to be so helpful so far!

I have a 2000 4runner limited-just rolled over 200k, and she still drives like a dream. After some clicking underneath the passenger side dash, linked the problem to the servo just about the time the heat went out. Ordered the replacement part, and installed myself with no problem.
Only issue now, is I still don't have heat. I have combed through threads and seen some discussions about the heat control valve under the hood associated with servo problems. Can anyone help me out with this?

The heater control valve is on the upper fire wall. Could be that the heater core is clogged. Your blend door actuator motor might be the culprit.

Blend door actuator stuck
 
2022-12-31 001 by wjamyers, on Flickr

Cheesy Limited Center Dash Panel Disintegrated... Not inclined to replace it with another piece of cheese, thinking switch to SR5, not sure if that will create problems with missing security light, ECT switch messaging...

I don't want to just live with it it's ugly as hell, the SR5 piece is much tougher and the matte black is better looking too, (I have one in our '99 Highlander).

The SR5 one is discontinued (probably because they don't break as often) so I can drop $350 on a new one if I want the same cheesy brittle faux wood pattern again.


Does anyone have any advice how to proceed?

2022-12-31 003 by wjamyers, on Flickr

2022-12-31 004 by wjamyers, on Flickr
 
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Cheesy Limited Center Dash Panel Disintegrated... Not inclined to replace it with another piece of cheese, thinking switch to SR5, not sure if that will create problems with missing security light, ECT switch messaging...

I don't want to just live with it it's ugly as hell, the SR5 piece is much tougher and the matte black is better looking too, (I have one in our '99 Highlander).

The SR5 one is discontinued (probably because they don't break as often) so I can drop $350 on a new one if I want the same cheesy brittle faux wood pattern again.


Does anyone have any advice how to proceed?

Find someone doing a part out. The ect/rear window/security light are removable from the dash bezel so you can transfer your current ones over. I’d recommend getting a full set of black trim pieces. Door switches, instrument cluster, shifter bezel, ignition cylinder, and the center dash bezel.
 
1999 4runner lmt - need transmission sensor identified/part#?

1999 4Runner Limited
Need HELP identifying this sensor on transmission.
BELOW sensor detached from wiring. Has 3 pins.

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LFT Side (Drv side) Transmission

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New to the FORUM.
Any help is appreciated.
Transmission solenoid HARNESS?
Part #?
 

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No codes now minus pending vehicle speed sensor. I am headed out now to try reset truck set all night and it’s cold so fingers crossed thank you for the article.
Any HELP
I have seen several members who respond quite frequently. Not sure about T4R rules can I send ??? to individuals.
 
Steering rack question:

So I bought a couple cv reboot kits because mine are both leaking. I have no symptoms of bad CVs so I’m just going to do the reboot.

Anyway, so my driver side boot on my steering rack is cracked and leaking. Are these greased kind of like the cv boots or does a leak from inside the steering rack boot mean there is a seal leaking and I need a rebuild and not just new boots?
 
Steering rack question:

So I bought a couple cv reboot kits because mine are both leaking. I have no symptoms of bad CVs so I’m just going to do the reboot.

Anyway, so my driver side boot on my steering rack is cracked and leaking. Are these greased kind of like the cv boots or does a leak from inside the steering rack boot mean there is a seal leaking and I need a rebuild and not just new boots?

You have one (or both) inner tie rod seals leaking. You can rebuild the rack, but I would just replace the rack. OEM rack isn't cheap, but does come with new inner tie rods and boots and will last substantially longer than aftermarket racks. Aftermarket racks seem to break again within a year. Yes, they will have a parts warranty but that won't cover labor costs to replace it and another alignment.
 
You have one (or both) inner tie rod seals leaking. You can rebuild the rack, but I would just replace the rack. OEM rack isn't cheap, but does come with new inner tie rods and boots and will last substantially longer than aftermarket racks. Aftermarket racks seem to break again within a year. Yes, they will have a parts warranty but that won't cover labor costs to replace it and another alignment.

That’s what I was expecting. Is there a “best” place to get a Toyota remanned rack? How do I get a rebuilt oem rack and know it was rebuilt by someone who knew what they were doing?
 
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