The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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I always thought the lower seal was to prevent vacuum leaks where the injector meets the intake manifold. (It's been so long I can't remember if they seal to the head or the intake manifold. Either way a poor seal at the injector there can be a source of vacuum leak.)

That was my first thought too, hence my concern. But maybe it's that seal just below the silver ring that prevents a vacuum leak? I can't find any info in the service manual of where that lower o-ring seals and what its function is.

Here's how osidetiger responded to my question: "These modern injectors do without that whole lower portion that your factory injectors use so no lower o-ring is used".
 
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That was my first thought too, hence my concern. But maybe it's that seal just below the silver ring that prevents a vacuum leak? I can't find any info in the service manual of where that lower o-ring seals and what its function is.

Here's how osidetiger responded to my question: "These modern injectors do without that whole lower portion that your factory injectors use so no lower o-ring is used".

I guess if you have a vacuum leak after installing them you know where to start looking. Still seems strange to be missing a seal but maybe it's a redundancy.
 
I came across this thread, where the URD injector supplier says not to use the tip o-ring for their injectors (post #4) - 305CC Denso Injector Swap 5VZ-FE "O" Rings ?? "Gadget" | Toyota Tacoma Forum.

Still wish I could figure out what the o-ring is for on the OEM injector.

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I ended up contacting Osidetiger , and got the definitive explanation. Here is what they said:

"The factory injectors use that lower seal to seal off a cavity that is part of the intake manifold. That part of the manifold has a port that introduces air at certain rpms. That air enters the injector tip in an effort to improve with fuel atomization. The factory injectors have small air ports molded in to allow the air to mix with fuel during operation. This was an attempt to get decent atomization out of a single hole (at the very tip) of the injector. The injector tip on the factory injector you can see is just a two way diverter and does nothing for atomization. The new modern injectors do away with all of this by using 12 atomizing holes instead. The additional air that enters the cavity in the intake bypasses the injector tips so the engine and sensors don’t see a change."

Looking at the injector mounting pocket in the manifold, the vacuum sealing surface is near the top, and is sealed by that large seal that both injectors have. Below that is that aux air passage that they mentioned, from which air comes out at certain RPM and tries to push fuel through the injector to better atomize it.

That lower o-ring on the original injector is therefore only used to prevent this auxiliary air from going around the injector tip, forcing the air to go through the injector. So the o-ring has nothing to do with maintaining a vacuum seal, which is why it's not needed in the upgraded injector.

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Broken off ABS Sensor

Hey all, need some help. I swapped my rear diff on my truck + axle seals a few weeks ago. Everything went pretty smooth.

However now a few weeks later after up at the skii resort, it appears that my rear abs sensor has broken off in the axle housing. No idea how other than maybe just 21 year old plastic being fragile?

There's not enough material on the outside of the sensor to grab it with slip pliers, channel locks, etc. I was able to hammer in a flathead screwdriver "keyway" and was able to get it to turn but no avail for removal.

The only way I can see of getting it out is removing the passanger side axle and hammering/tapping it out from the inside. Does anyone have any other methods for me? Thanks.
 
The only way I can see of getting it out is removing the passanger side axle and hammering/tapping it out from the inside. Does anyone have any other methods for me? Thanks.

Two things, from the outside try a slide hammer drill a pilot hole.
From the inside, a turnbuckle with washer covering sensor worked for me on a stuck sensor without damaging it.
 
Thoughts and experiences with the Wagner ThermoQuiet brake pads?

Same with Hawk LTS pads?

Which do you prefer and why?

Sent from my SM-T220 using Tapatalk
 
I'm trying to figure out where the brake pedal return spring hooks to on the fixed side. This is the best I could come up with (circled in red), but can someone confirm? I'd hate to end up with a spring that flies off while I'm driving!

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Frame Rust

Hey all, new member here in the market for a 3rd Gen. I've found one that looks solid other than a bit of frame rust, which is to be expected for a 20+ yr old vehicle in Northern VA. I don't mind immediately putting a little money in to take care of it, but I'm wondering if this is likely to be a sand+repaint job or a welding job. I'm particularly worried about the lateral control rod mount on the left side. Any thoughts?

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Higher res photos here: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
 

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Hey all, new member here in the market for a 3rd Gen. I've found one that looks solid other than a bit of frame rust, which is to be expected for a 20+ yr old vehicle in Northern VA. I don't mind immediately putting a little money in to take care of it, but I'm wondering if this is likely to be a sand+repaint job or a welding job. I'm particularly worried about the lateral control rod mount on the left side. Any thoughts?

It's difficult to say based on pictures. I would hit the mount with a decent sized hammer to test the integrity
 
I ended up contacting Osidetiger , and got the definitive explanation. Here is what they said:

"The factory injectors use that lower seal to seal off a cavity that is part of the intake manifold. That part of the manifold has a port that introduces air at certain rpms. That air enters the injector tip in an effort to improve with fuel atomization. The factory injectors have small air ports molded in to allow the air to mix with fuel during operation. This was an attempt to get decent atomization out of a single hole (at the very tip) of the injector. The injector tip on the factory injector you can see is just a two way diverter and does nothing for atomization. The new modern injectors do away with all of this by using 12 atomizing holes instead. The additional air that enters the cavity in the intake bypasses the injector tips so the engine and sensors don’t see a change."

Looking at the injector mounting pocket in the manifold, the vacuum sealing surface is near the top, and is sealed by that large seal that both injectors have. Below that is that aux air passage that they mentioned, from which air comes out at certain RPM and tries to push fuel through the injector to better atomize it.

That lower o-ring on the original injector is therefore only used to prevent this auxiliary air from going around the injector tip, forcing the air to go through the injector. So the o-ring has nothing to do with maintaining a vacuum seal, which is why it's not needed in the upgraded injector.

SH3ZHT2l.png


qmUohg9l.png

Very interesting, and also very loopy design from Toyota. I wonder how/if fuel efficiency would increase with these...
 
I'm trying to figure out where the brake pedal return spring hooks to on the fixed side. This is the best I could come up with (circled in red), but can someone confirm? I'd hate to end up with a spring that flies off while I'm driving!

That's where I connected mine over a year ago and it hasn't flown off.
 
Hey all, new member here in the market for a 3rd Gen. I've found one that looks solid other than a bit of frame rust, which is to be expected for a 20+ yr old vehicle in Northern VA. I don't mind immediately putting a little money in to take care of it, but I'm wondering if this is likely to be a sand+repaint job or a welding job. I'm particularly worried about the lateral control rod mount on the left side. Any thoughts?

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Higher res photos here: Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Bonjour. Fellow NOVA owner here. I will say this does look pretty rough, but I agree with Bad Luck. See what happens when you hit it. My truck didn't spend most of it's life up here, but I've been up here the past couple of years. You know they salt these roads when it gets cold and the idea of a single drop of snow.
 
Very interesting, and also very loopy design from Toyota. I wonder how/if fuel efficiency would increase with these...

I'll certainly report back if I see any improvement in mpg (14.5 that I'm getting now is a pretty low bar!).

Then again, I am changing not just the injectors, but also the TPS, all air/vacuum hoses, and tons of other parts, so if I do see any change in mpg (hopefully for the better), I won't necessarily know what to attribute it to.
 
Gen 3 4runner broken rear seat clip

There's a plastic clip underneath my rear fold down seat thats broken. Which is concerning because my kids car seat sits on top of the rear seat. I can't find this plastic clip anywhere. I'm not even sure if I'm using the correct terminology buts it's not in the operators manual, its not in the maintenance manual and I can't find it on rock auto please help
 
There's a plastic clip underneath my rear fold down seat thats broken. Which is concerning because my kids car seat sits on top of the rear seat. I can't find this plastic clip anywhere. I'm not even sure if I'm using the correct terminology buts it's not in the operators manual, its not in the maintenance manual and I can't find it on rock auto please help

Are you referring to the plastic caps that go over the metal bracket where the seat actually bolts into the body?
 
There's a plastic clip underneath my rear fold down seat thats broken. Which is concerning because my kids car seat sits on top of the rear seat. I can't find this plastic clip anywhere. I'm not even sure if I'm using the correct terminology buts it's not in the operators manual, its not in the maintenance manual and I can't find it on rock auto please help

Can you post a photo of the broken part?
 
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