ECM is trying to adjust fuel trims based on a air/fuel sensor that isn't there. Once the code sets the ECM knows that it can't use any of the data (or lack of data) from the air/fuel sensor and defaults to a neutral fuel trim table. You need to fix that sensor.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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ECM is trying to adjust fuel trims based on a air/fuel sensor that isn't there. Once the code sets the ECM knows that it can't use any of the data (or lack of data) from the air/fuel sensor and defaults to a neutral fuel trim table. You need to fix that sensor.
What temperature is it getting to while idling? Have you checked your condenser to make sure it isn't clogged as well? Have you checked your coolant level and verified the overflow is working?
Hey everyone!
I’m about to tackle the valve cover gaskets on my 1999 Limited and have a quick question regarding the fuel injector wiring harness. I know these things are prone to breaking into a million pieces so my goal is to wrap them with something prior to removing the valve cover. My question is, what would you recommend I wrap them in? My goal is to make it look nice/clean but I want something that will allow me to easily access the harness again if need be. I was looking at wire looms online but most of them seem to not have a high heat resistance. Can someone help point me in the right direction?
Thanks!
I’m about to tackle the valve cover gaskets on my 1999 Limited and have a quick question regarding the fuel injector wiring harness. I know these things are prone to breaking into a million pieces so my goal is to wrap them with something prior to removing the valve cover. My question is, what would you recommend I wrap them in? My goal is to make it look nice/clean but I want something that will allow me to easily access the harness again if need be. I was looking at wire looms online but most of them seem to not have a high heat resistance. Can someone help point me in the right direction?
Thanks!
Spiker Engineering
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I just finished wrapping my harness with self fusing silicone tape - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I have never used it before, and at first I was not happy because it had no adhesion to the plastic wiring harness enclosure. Then I did some googling and realized that while the tape does not stick to anything, it actually fuses to itself - so after a few wraps, you have a complete fused enclosure that will never unstick or peel. The stuff is amazing.
Every time they delay it it's another 2 weeks or so. It is stressing me out because I haven't had the vehicle for over 2 months now and now that the weather is getting nicer I want to drive it more
DJRodriguez88
New member
I don't have a means to read the temperature but the needle gets up near the H on the dash temp gauge temporarily and it comes down within a few seconds of higher rpm.
I haven't checked the condenser I'm not sure what part that is. I thought the a/c condenser is in a separate system from the coolant. Unless you mean to check if the fins are preventing airflow then I will check it asap. I live on a dirt road and it's been real muddy this year so definitely possible.
I'll double check the coolant and bleed it. Not sure how to check if overflow is working but I suppose I can ask youtube =]
Devbot
New member
[VIDEO]
Does this sound like pinging to anyone? It sounds like metal jingling/shaking around, but also sounds pretty rhythmic and appears to be located to just the front passenger corner where the camera is facing. Only happens once I start reaching around 65-70mph; doesn't seem to increase/react with throttle but it definitely decreased as I let off and slowed down (at 60 and below it's completely gone)... I regularly get up to 4000-5000RPM in the lower gears and have never heard it before, and have been filling up with the same ethanol free gas as always. Fuel injectors ARE original but haven't given me any problems until now. Maybe overthinking it and just have something loose?
Getting up to 70mph is real rare in my neck of the woods so whether or not it's preexisting or freshly developed is beyond me, and it doesn't help I've never dealt with pinging before :fish: It was pretty loud, almost like it was coming from under the dash, but again I'm not really sure how loud pinging is. It's hard to judge by videos cause most of them have tons of wind noise (like mine lol)
Does this sound like pinging to anyone? It sounds like metal jingling/shaking around, but also sounds pretty rhythmic and appears to be located to just the front passenger corner where the camera is facing. Only happens once I start reaching around 65-70mph; doesn't seem to increase/react with throttle but it definitely decreased as I let off and slowed down (at 60 and below it's completely gone)... I regularly get up to 4000-5000RPM in the lower gears and have never heard it before, and have been filling up with the same ethanol free gas as always. Fuel injectors ARE original but haven't given me any problems until now. Maybe overthinking it and just have something loose?
Getting up to 70mph is real rare in my neck of the woods so whether or not it's preexisting or freshly developed is beyond me, and it doesn't help I've never dealt with pinging before :fish: It was pretty loud, almost like it was coming from under the dash, but again I'm not really sure how loud pinging is. It's hard to judge by videos cause most of them have tons of wind noise (like mine lol)
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Every time they delay it it's another 2 weeks or so. It is stressing me out because I haven't had the vehicle for over 2 months now and now that the weather is getting nicer I want to drive it more
I understand the feeling. My truck was down from the end of July to the end of October back in 2017 when it got totaled. With that in mind, maybe just go ahead and take the truck back with a standard hood and scratch the sport hood idea. Ultimately you gotta make that decision though.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Amazing till you want to take it off I used 3M's version in electrical industry.
What ever you cover wires etc. it will fuse to it eventually especially under warm hot conditions.
Trick is to wrap what your covering with electrical tape sticky side out first then this stuff,
here's to hoping this stuff is different.
'98 3.4l atf?
I need to know, what kind of ATF to use for my '98 3.4L Automatic transmission. I have searched and searched, and cannot find a straight answer. The dipstick says "Dextron II". I cannot find Dextron II in any store...
I checked the level on the dipstick, and I had just got back from going to the store, level was just below 'cool'...which is obviously not good. My 4runner has 251K miles on it, and the fluid on it looks brownish...should I do a complete ATF change? I have never done that, I have never owned any toyotas before this one...
I need to know, what kind of ATF to use for my '98 3.4L Automatic transmission. I have searched and searched, and cannot find a straight answer. The dipstick says "Dextron II". I cannot find Dextron II in any store...
I checked the level on the dipstick, and I had just got back from going to the store, level was just below 'cool'...which is obviously not good. My 4runner has 251K miles on it, and the fluid on it looks brownish...should I do a complete ATF change? I have never done that, I have never owned any toyotas before this one...
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I would highly recommend a scan tool or some other way to read coolant temperature. The engine control module and the dash gauge rear from 2 different locations so it's a quick/easy way to verify that both sensors are functioning correctly.
To check the overflow/radiator cap is functioning properly put a piece of tape on the overflow reservoir where the coolant is when the engine is cold then check it again when the engine is at operating temperature for 20-30 minutes. The level in the overflow should have raised and the radiator hoses should be firm/hard to squeeze (be careful the hoses will be hot).
If you've done any work on the cooling system then you likely have an air pocket in the system. These engines are very difficult to burp. I use a spill free coolant funnel and park on the steepest incline I can find to burp the cooling system.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
DexIII is backwards compatible as far as I'm aware, so you should be okay to use that. Do your research though to ensure that's 100% accurate and correct.
I have some questions though. How long have you owned the truck for? Have you ever drained and filled your transmission? Do you have any prior records of the transmission being serviced? If so, were they regular drain and fills or were they complete fluid exchanges, like with a machine? This will help you make a better informed decision on how to move forward.
Many will say if your transmission has been neglected that you probably should just leave it alone. You might be able to get ahead while you can with a few simple drain and fills. Or, if you really want, drain it, drop the pan, clean the filter and magnets, reinstall the pan and fill it up.
I personally am doing an annual drain and fill of my transmission now and the fluid comes out pretty red. Doing it at the beginning of each year. You may be able to adopt a schedule similar to that, however your liking is.
Also, throw in a transmission cooler while you're at it. They're inexpensive and will ensure longevity and prevent problems down the road.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Search this has been discussed fully on type of fluid and changing.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Agreed, I would not use it like electrical tape to wrap directly over wires. I use it to overwrap existing wire harnesses that have tape peeling off at the ends - this stuff locks that tape nicely in place.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Has anyone renewed their coolant within the last, say, year or so? Did you use Toyota red or the 50/50 pre-diluted pink stuff? I've only used the Toyota red full strength and diluted it myself with distilled water, but from what I'm seeing online, it looks like the full strength stuff has been discontinued?
I haven't been to the local dealer in a while nor have I looked for it specifically either. But I'm approaching 60K miles/5 years on this coolant so I'm thinking it's probably overdue at this point. No overheating or temp. issues but just trying to think ahead is all. Worse case scenario I may just have to use the 50/50 pre-diluted pink stuff. Any input?
I haven't been to the local dealer in a while nor have I looked for it specifically either. But I'm approaching 60K miles/5 years on this coolant so I'm thinking it's probably overdue at this point. No overheating or temp. issues but just trying to think ahead is all. Worse case scenario I may just have to use the 50/50 pre-diluted pink stuff. Any input?
I used only Toyota red coolant diluted with distilled water in my current 4Runner and my last one. First one came with red so I stuck with that. Current one had green coolant, but I had red left over from the first 4Runner so I went with red again after flushing with distilled water several times.
fatherohenry
Member
Thought I'd do something simple today like replace alternator brushes.
Turns out this nut seems to be stripped. I've tried back pressure on the adjacent adjustment bolt but I got nothing.
Any thoughts other than trying to cut it off with a Dremel? I don't want to cause additional damage.
EDIT: Couldn't get a Dremel in there straight so had to go at it from different angles before I could knock it loose.
Turns out this nut seems to be stripped. I've tried back pressure on the adjacent adjustment bolt but I got nothing.
Any thoughts other than trying to cut it off with a Dremel? I don't want to cause additional damage.
EDIT: Couldn't get a Dremel in there straight so had to go at it from different angles before I could knock it loose.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Word. I'm debating on what kind I'm going to go with for this next flush and fill. A buddy of mine with a Taco wants to do his but wants to use the pre-diluted stuff. I told him if we could get, say, 6 containers from Toyota at a discounted price then I'd throw in for half and he'd pay the other half. The thing is, I've only ran the full strength stuff before.
I don't foresee any issues with using the 50/50 mix but wanted to put a feeler out there to gather some input. Thanks Patrick.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Three words. Flare nut wrench.Thought I'd do something simple today like replace alternator brushes.
Turns out this nut seems to be stripped. I've tried back pressure on the adjacent adjustment bolt but I got nothing.
Any thoughts other than trying to cut it off with a Dremel? I don't want to cause additional damage.
EDIT: Couldn't get a Dremel in there straight so had to go at it from different angles before I could knock it loose.
If you've already tried that and it's only becoming worse by rounding off more, just leave it alone and obtain a bolt extractor set. They can be found relatively cheaply from many different places, like Harbor Freight for example. Hopefully you have one nearby.
Extract that thing and throw on a new nut at the end. OR, try to apply heat to it as carefully as possible and take a pair of vice grips to it if you can articulate them well enough in that space.
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