The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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How fast are we talking, like how many miles? Manual or automatic? If the latter typically your next step should be to look at your radiator and consider replacing it, but if it's happening unreasonably fast that might be a different story as well

for whatever reason only seems to happen with the way that I drive.

When I bought it, the fluid was darkish, but not the color of motor oil like mine gets to.

Happened in roughly 1000 miles after I bought it.

I then flushed it, all 11 quarts, but using the transmissions own pump, and it was fine for about 400 miles, with almost no warning signs of going bad.

Then, it just suddenly seems like it toasts all of the transmission fluid in one day.

Literally just the other day it was bright red, like the fluid I flushed it with, then ALL of it is burnt.

I really don't think it's coolant, but I'm installing a trans cooler anyways.

I have some theories:
Whatever's in the torque converter has worked it's way out twice now. Unlikely, especially since I'm doing a flush using the transmissions own pump, and I'm pretty sure that goes through the TQ. But I am doing it one quart in, one quart out, so it could just be mixing a bunch of dirty fluid.


The filter gets clogged sometimes when I go over bumps, and this clogging burns up the trans in no time.

This makes the most sense, since it seems to happen out of nowhere, not gradually, and it happens VERY fast.
Suddenly, ALL of the fluid is completely burnt.
It lived in a not-so-bumpy area before.


Did this ruin my trans? I have no idea. It still drives fine, it just acts a little more funny when I know it's burnt. I can do another flush and hope for the best.


I also notice that I crushed a 1st/reverse hose on the valve body, but the fluid burning was happening before that,but I'm sure that it doesn't help.
 
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Hey guys, I’m trying to figure out the best way to attach this back (tailgate hatch). I usually would do super glue but I don’t know if that’s the play here. Or should I just buy another rubber weather strip and use the adhesive that comes with it?
I recently replaced mine and it seems that the weather strip is actually attached to the bezel itself. It's also a hard piece of plastic and not rubber. If you're able to easily acquire a new bezel altogether I'd go that route. That way the new weather strip is nice and flush against the hatch. They aren't too expensive, roughly $100-$150 used.

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Locker - when engaged, power delivered to both wheels evenly, both wheels turn at same speed, maximizing traction.
This is the go-to for off road applications.
Pros: Maximize traction, stronger differential (with ARB $$$), less maintenance than LSD (arguable for ARB, definitely not less than a TruTrac), cheap (for auto-locker)
Cons: price (for selectable locker), complexity (for selectable locker)

LSD - when engaged, attempts to deliver power more equally, but doesn't actually lock.
Most people don't use an LSD off road unless you go with a helical design like the TruTrac.
Pros: cheaper than selectable locker (with TruTrac)
Cons: doesnt lock, less traction, more maintenance (except with TruTrac), expensive (compared to auto locker), less options

Regear - regear makes sense to do at the same time as a locker. Mostly not needed unless you are running bigger tires. A regear basically allows you to trade some top-end speed for acceleration/torque or vice versa. People do this when running bigger tires because bigger tires essentially changes your final drive ratio such that you lose a lot of acceleration/torque.

By auto locker do you mean *always on* locked as if like a welded diff? And it's a 2wd so I don't need the absolute best traction as I won't be doing anything crazy. But LSD would still help prevent me getting stuck, right?

So selectable locker more expensive than LSD which is more expensive than locker. Is that correct?

And also, I am running 32s. So I don't need to regear. However, can I regear to improve my MPGs? (also, long-term, I would like to supercharge it :). however, I am asking this question regardless of the supercharger)
 
Can I somehow disconnect my antenna? I don't listen to radio. I just got a stereo put in so I can use bluetooth, but the antenna always go up anyways no matter what. I don't seen an option to turn off the radio, I can only switch to bluetooth, but the antenna still stays up.

Also, I'm getting 15 MPGs. It's a 2wd on 32s with like a 2 inch lift and plenty of highway driving. This can't be right...
 
Can I somehow disconnect my antenna?...


I added a switch to mine since the antenna was always up with the new head unit. I replaced an Alpine from p.o. with an Alpine and I used the blue/white wire. Your setup may be different.


Use the "secret" Google search for 'power antenna switch' and you'll find tons of good info.


4sZSR48.jpg
 
A/C buttons not working

I have a 99 surf with the digital ac controller, 3 of the buttons used to intermittently work and now don’t at all. The outside temp, recirculate/ fresh air and ac switch. have had the controller apart replaced ribbon cable but no luck any ideas? Thanks in advanced.
 
Can I somehow disconnect my antenna? I don't listen to radio. I just got a stereo put in so I can use bluetooth, but the antenna always go up anyways no matter what. I don't seen an option to turn off the radio, I can only switch to bluetooth, but the antenna still stays up.

Also, I'm getting 15 MPGs. It's a 2wd on 32s with like a 2 inch lift and plenty of highway driving. This can't be right...

Diisconnect the Antenna motor from behind the front passenger wheel well.
Cleaning the maf, throttle intake valve and replacing the a/f sensor can help with milage.
 
New member, here. 4wd issue I can't find a solution to with existing threads.

'97 SR5 MT w/ J shift. 4wd indicator flickers on when shifting into 4hi but immediately goes dark. Assumed it was a bulb problem for a while; not so.
4wd light will stay on and front axle is obviously engaged when shifting on the fly under load but will disengage with light going off as soon as load drops off (both uphill or downhill) or when the vehicle jolts on a bump. Can get it to lock into place when engine braking downhill but can't then disengage until I cut the load by tapping the clutch.

TC and front Diff fluids were fine but changed anyway.
Body and suspension lift but it's not interference at the J-shift against the body. Tore that apart and actuated everything with a screwdriver, same results.

Assuming something is out of line but front driveshaft has no play. Short of tearing into the TC or front Diff, I'm out of ideas.
 
1998 4runner rear differential locker

Hi guys,

I have a 98' 2WD SR5 4runner and lately I have really been thinking about wanting to put a locker on the rear in my truck. I know that the factory e-lockers that came on the 4runners and Tacoma's are not that hard to find. I was planning on hitting up the junkyard and finding one there or I saw the other day on ebay a guy is selling the whole actual locking differential assembly. I have a question though, so other than acquiring the locking diff itself, what else would I need to get? From what I understand besides putting it on I would need to have the wire(s) that runs from the diff to inside the cab and up to the dash where the switch would be. Also, as for the diff itself, it should be a direct bolt on right? I shouldn't need any other parts to put it on my non-locker axle right? I mean they look the same just one assembly has a locker on it. If anybody could help me out or let me know any additional information I'd need to know it would be greatly appreciated. Although I only have a 2WD I think the diff locker would make a big difference in the capabilities and what my truck go up. Thanks
 
Want to get some opinions on a lil something.

My rig has the Sonoran Steel adjustable panhard bar. It's been on my truck since 2014. It works as it should? I think? But it doesn't sit level with the rear axle.

I recently got my hands on my OEM panhard bar. It had been stored away all this time and is in excellent shape. Even the bushings still are seemingly enough.

The idea I have is this: yank the Sonoran Steel bar, replace the bushings in my OEM bar with poly bushings, install that coupled with an eimkeith pck.

Thoughts and suggestions? Ideally this should yield me a better rear end stability feeling so I'm hopeful to get some positive feedback on this.

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Hi guys,

I have a 98' 2WD SR5 4runner and lately I have really been thinking about wanting to put a locker on the rear in my truck. I know that the factory e-lockers that came on the 4runners and Tacoma's are not that hard to find. I was planning on hitting up the junkyard and finding one there or I saw the other day on ebay a guy is selling the whole actual locking differential assembly. I have a question though, so other than acquiring the locking diff itself, what else would I need to get? From what I understand besides putting it on I would need to have the wire(s) that runs from the diff to inside the cab and up to the dash where the switch would be. Also, as for the diff itself, it should be a direct bolt on right? I shouldn't need any other parts to put it on my non-locker axle right? I mean they look the same just one assembly has a locker on it. If anybody could help me out or let me know any additional information I'd need to know it would be greatly appreciated. Although I only have a 2WD I think the diff locker would make a big difference in the capabilities and what my truck go up. Thanks

Look up elocker retrofit. Unfortunately the two main write-ups have disappeared for some reason but there's still plenty of information out there about it.
Long story short it's very involved to add one to an open diff housing and is much easier to take a Tacoma axle and convert it to 4-link. Otherwise the housing needs clearanced in multiple spots which involves plasma cutting and relocating a couple differential studs
 
The idea I have is this: yank the Sonoran Steel bar, replace the bushings in my OEM bar with poly bushings, install that coupled with an eimkeith pck.

I've used both with the PCK. Adjust length of SS bar to same length as OE bar before you install it.
 
I've used both with the PCK. Adjust length of SS bar to same length as OE bar before you install it.
I might as well use my OEM bar and not have to fiddle with adjustments. I'm hopeful that it'll tighten things up though.

Any suggestions on poly bushings to use? I haven't looked yet but I imagine energy suspension or something.

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I might as well use my OEM bar and not have to fiddle with adjustments. I'm hopeful that it'll tighten things up though.
Any suggestions on poly bushings to use? I haven't looked yet but I imagine energy suspension or something.

The PCK is great at getting rid of the side to side scoot you feel on road seams.
I've chosen to stick with OE bushings on the rearends, they last quite a while.
 
Has anyone repaired the back of their back seat? I recently picked up a 2000sr5 that it looks like the previous owners dog got ahold to. Iv had trouble finding out which material to use and how to reattach it.4r.jpg
 

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6” 3G T4R lift

Trying to lift my 3G T4R 6”. I have the Tacoma 6” fabtech lift for my front end, but the rear suspension is different and I can’t find and 6” coils or shocks that would fit. Pls help
 
2002 4runner mystery part - What the heck is this for?

I was performing the door actuator motor swap and found this part in the bottom of the door. It's approximately 1.25 inches long and made of pliable rubber. Anyone know what it is or what it's for? Is it even part of the vehicle!?

Thanks!
 

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The PCK is great at getting rid of the side to side scoot you feel on road seams.
I've chosen to stick with OE bushings on the rearends, they last quite a while.

I do experience a lot of side to side motion mostly when going over bumps, potholes, etc. I like the idea of throwing back in the original panhard bar though.
 
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