The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[connorms]

Has anyone on here experienced or heard about a "groaning" sound coming from the rear when running no internal spring bumpstops? I recently did some rear end work (LC 7.5 wraps, outboard shocks, etc), and am now experiencing a strange sound coming from the rear end pretty frequently. It sounds like a groan almost, or my girlfriend described it like someone hitting a gong? It happens really frequently, almost at random. Sometimes it happens just going over a speedbump, sometimes it won't when going over the same speedbump, sometimes it happens when I let off the brakes, and other times it doesn't? When I installed the LC coils I chose to go without the internal bump stop cone because I couldn't get the springs in with those installed, so could that be it? I've been trying to get a video of it, but it's difficult because it's VERY noticeable in person but is really difficult to hear on video for some reason. Just wondering if anyone has heard of this before? If it's just due to the metal on metal contact of the springs I'm not worried about it, but it seems strange that the springs would be moving around that much or making so much noise from small movements?

 

[Devbot]

If they don't do printouts they aren't using a real alignment machine or the tech doesn't know how to use it. I've never NOT had a before/after data sheet and wouldn't pay for someone's eyeball job.

Edit - that sounds a bit harsh but c'mon shop

I've had numerous shops only print them out if you ask for it, I think the only place that gave me one without asking in the past 5 years was Les Schwab. It makes sense when you consider 99% of people they see couldn't give a single damn, let alone know what any of the figures mean

 

[Devbot]

Has anyone on here experienced or heard about a "groaning" sound coming from the rear when running no internal spring bumpstops? I recently did some rear end work (LC 7.5 wraps, outboard shocks, etc), and am now experiencing a strange sound coming from the rear end pretty frequently. It sounds like a groan almost, or my girlfriend described it like someone hitting a gong? It happens really frequently, almost at random. Sometimes it happens just going over a speedbump, sometimes it won't when going over the same speedbump, sometimes it happens when I let off the brakes, and other times it doesn't? When I installed the LC coils I chose to go without the internal bump stop cone because I couldn't get the springs in with those installed, so could that be it? I've been trying to get a video of it, but it's difficult because it's VERY noticeable in person but is really difficult to hear on video for some reason. Just wondering if anyone has heard of this before? If it's just due to the metal on metal contact of the springs I'm not worried about it, but it seems strange that the springs would be moving around that much or making so much noise from small movements?

Had this very same problem with my Dobinsons 210V. Wasn't a "groan" but made some god awful sounds - like the most annoying, gnarliest vibration you've ever heard over the most minuscule bumps. Put them back in and no more problems. If I remember right it's because the LC springs are barely wider than 4Runner springs so they don't sit in the upper perch fully and kinda ride the wall of it.. Hope you didn't throw yours away cause they're not cheap!

 

[Endlessblockades]

I've had numerous shops only print them out if you ask for it, I think the only place that gave me one without asking in the past 5 years was Les Schwab. It makes sense when you consider 99% of people they see couldn't give a single damn, let alone know what any of the figures mean

Interesting. I've never not received a data sheet. I assumed all shops would do so to say "see, we did something for your money". That said, I've only done it 3 times on this rig. Twice at Big-O Tires, and once at an independent shop.

 

[DJRodriguez88]

I'm going to be running a steel rear bumper with a carrier holding a 35" tire, 5 gal Jerry can, and full skids. maaaybe another 80-100lbs of tools/equip after that.

From what I've read the common rear spring options for this kind of setup are OME 862 or 891.

The only thing I'm worried about is getting too much lift, some guys have mentioned that they were getting 4 even 5 inches of lift out of these springs.

I want to achieve a level height setup without cranking up my front coilovers as I would like to keep the overall height relatively low.

Is this enough weight to make 862 or 891s sit at 3" or less lift?

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm going to be running a steel rear bumper with a carrier holding a 35" tire, 5 gal Jerry can, and full skids. maaaybe another 80-100lbs of tools/equip after that.

From what I've read the common rear spring options for this kind of setup are OME 862 or 891.

The only thing I'm worried about is getting too much lift, some guys have mentioned that they were getting 4 even 5 inches of lift out of these springs.

I want to achieve a level height setup without cranking up my front coilovers as I would like to keep the overall height relatively low.

Is this enough weight to make 862 or 891s sit at 3" or less lift?

891's typically give about 3 inches of lift without all that you've listed so I wouldn't get your hopes up on that option. I thought the other option was 861 springs not 862 springs, but I could be wrong.

 

[MtnGoat9]

finally found a thread I can post in

Hi all, not quite sure why it won't let me post a full thread, i guess I need 'replies' for a while? anyway....


I need to replace the rear springs on my 2000 runner.

I've got 'the sag' going on and I'm sick of it.

My goal is springs that will keep me level with a heavily loaded rig, such as full of camping crap and a sailboat on the roof. I can even pass on the sailboat requirement if I'll be level with just a regular large load.

Not interested in adding plumbing such as air shocks, etc. I heard rumors the factory replacements for 3rd gens are now better than what they shipped with initially. Also that 4th gen springs may fit and are better?

I've been poking around asking questions elsewhere at suspension outfits and have been underwhelmed. Went into a 4x4 outfit in Hood River, they said they'd have their guy contact me, never did. Called a couple days later, they told me same thing...then no call. I guess they don't want my money. Then I tried some place back east (overlander.com or something)? Sent them an email, no answer. Tried again, no answer. Maybe I should call them up, but that didn't work at my local place and I'm getting kind of tired of it.

Just want to get the rig level again, better yet an inch or two of extra in back when empty so it will level when loaded. Not too picky.

 

[Bad Luck]

Hi all, not quite sure why it won't let me post a full thread, i guess I need 'replies' for a while? anyway....


I need to replace the rear springs on my 2000 runner.

I've got 'the sag' going on and I'm sick of it.

My goal is springs that will keep me level with a heavily loaded rig, such as full of camping crap and a sailboat on the roof. I can even pass on the sailboat requirement if I'll be level with just a regular large load.

Not interested in adding plumbing such as air shocks, etc. I heard rumors the factory replacements for 3rd gens are now better than what they shipped with initially. Also that 4th gen springs may fit and are better?

I've been poking around asking questions elsewhere at suspension outfits and have been underwhelmed. Went into a 4x4 outfit in Hood River, they said they'd have their guy contact me, never did. Called a couple days later, they told me same thing...then no call. I guess they don't want my money. Then I tried some place back east (overlander.com or something)? Sent them an email, no answer. Tried again, no answer. Maybe I should call them up, but that didn't work at my local place and I'm getting kind of tired of it.

Just want to get the rig level again, better yet an inch or two of extra in back when empty so it will level when loaded. Not too picky.

If you are factory height to 1 inch in the front I think OME 906 springs would be a good fit for what you are looking for. They are a low lift spring with a higher spring rate for heavier loads. You'll find them as OME 906 or OME 2906. It's the same thing.

 

[MCgrease08]

Hi all, not quite sure why it won't let me post a full thread, i guess I need 'replies' for a while? anyway....


I need to replace the rear springs on my 2000 runner.

I've got 'the sag' going on and I'm sick of it.

My goal is springs that will keep me level with a heavily loaded rig, such as full of camping crap and a sailboat on the roof. I can even pass on the sailboat requirement if I'll be level with just a regular large load.

Not interested in adding plumbing such as air shocks, etc. I heard rumors the factory replacements for 3rd gens are now better than what they shipped with initially. Also that 4th gen springs may fit and are better?

I've been poking around asking questions elsewhere at suspension outfits and have been underwhelmed. Went into a 4x4 outfit in Hood River, they said they'd have their guy contact me, never did. Called a couple days later, they told me same thing...then no call. I guess they don't want my money. Then I tried some place back east (overlander.com or something)? Sent them an email, no answer. Tried again, no answer. Maybe I should call them up, but that didn't work at my local place and I'm getting kind of tired of it.

Just want to get the rig level again, better yet an inch or two of extra in back when empty so it will level when loaded. Not too picky.

A few good places to start:

3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**

About rear sag - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

 

[jkurto1]

1999 Limited 4WD - how much is it worth?

I'm in Austin and it's time to part with my 1999 4WD Limited. I'm the second owner, since about 2009. It's got 270K miles on it.

I'm trying to gauge it's worth. I'd like to have an enthusiast buy it at a good and fair price rather than taking it to CarMax or the like.

Posting here, because even though I've been lurking for long time, I guess I haven't actually posted. So I can't start a new thread yet.


The bad:
- Engine is rough right now. Needs cylinder 6 Fuel injector replaced. Potential knocking. I don't want to keep investing in it, but someone who is handy, or wants a project might appreciate it.

- HVAC head unit lights and some buttons not working. AC and Heater work, but can't easily change the circulation mode.

- Driver's side door lock not working (the key won't turn) and the power lock doesn't work either. Need to unlock from Passenger door, then swing around to the Rear driver door, open it and unlock the Driver front door manually.

- Lift gate lock plastic broke, I did a clumsy job of bonding it to the plastic. Should have the gate trim replaced properly.

- Rear passenger power window doesn't reliably roll-up.

- Driver Seat leather has tears. Otherwise the interior is in good condition.

- Time for new suspension. I've been close to pulling the trigger from an OME setup, but held off.


The GOOD
- Fairly new Tires - Defender LTX

- Interior in good shape, except for the Driver's seat.

- Paint in good shape. It does have some scratches and the front bumper has chips from rocks/debris.

- Tow Package, Locking Diff

- New Spark plugs/Coilpacks and cables

- No Rust. This car was in Cali, and Washington State for a few years. But since 2010 it's been in Austin Texas.

- Radiator replaced in last ~4 years.

Thanks,
-Kurt

 

[son_of_vajk]

Recommended Mechanic

Morning everyone.
I've been lurking here for a while since I bought my '96 4runner two years ago.
I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a mechanic in the NOVA area. I recently got a lift kit for it that consists of OME 883 front coils, OME 891 rear coils, MCM Uniball UCAs, extended brake lines, and new shocks for the front and rear. When I took it to my mechanic up here he said that he doesn't have the time to do the job as well as he would want to. So now I am looking for someone who would be able to install all of these parts in my general area. If anyone has suggestions, I would greatly appreciate them.
Thanks!

 

[MtnGoat9]

Awesome, places to read specifics rather than prowling thread after thread! thanks a lot:clap2:

A few good places to start:

3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**

About rear sag - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

 

[MtnGoat9]

Those were super useful, thanks again. Got at least 4 options.

That said, a dumb question...when the spring specs say 2in lift or whatever, is that 2in higher than stock? I'm assuming so for now, back to level ..plus 2".

 

[JoeT4R]

I'm in Austin and it's time to part with my 1999 4WD Limited. I'm the second owner, since about 2009. It's got 270K miles on it.



I'm trying to gauge it's worth. I'd like to have an enthusiast buy it at a good and fair price rather than taking it to CarMax or the like.



Posting here, because even though I've been lurking for long time, I guess I haven't actually posted. So I can't start a new thread yet.





The bad:

- Engine is rough right now. Needs cylinder 6 Fuel injector replaced. Potential knocking. I don't want to keep investing in it, but someone who is handy, or wants a project might appreciate it.



- HVAC head unit lights and some buttons not working. AC and Heater work, but can't easily change the circulation mode.



- Driver's side door lock not working (the key won't turn) and the power lock doesn't work either. Need to unlock from Passenger door, then swing around to the Rear driver door, open it and unlock the Driver front door manually.



- Lift gate lock plastic broke, I did a clumsy job of bonding it to the plastic. Should have the gate trim replaced properly.



- Rear passenger power window doesn't reliably roll-up.



- Driver Seat leather has tears. Otherwise the interior is in good condition.



- Time for new suspension. I've been close to pulling the trigger from an OME setup, but held off.





The GOOD

- Fairly new Tires - Defender LTX



- Interior in good shape, except for the Driver's seat.



- Paint in good shape. It does have some scratches and the front bumper has chips from rocks/debris.



- Tow Package, Locking Diff



- New Spark plugs/Coilpacks and cables



- No Rust. This car was in Cali, and Washington State for a few years. But since 2010 it's been in Austin Texas.



- Radiator replaced in last ~4 years.



Thanks,

-Kurt

Try posting in classifieds section for better results

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[PeteCain]

Blown brake line?

Hey all

Got my rotors and pads replaced by a shop this past Wednesday. Driven the truck a few times since but this morning on the highway, went to slow down and the brakes faded bad. Pedal goes all the way to the floor basically before it bites. Was able to make it home fine, but noticed a whole bunch of oil/grease in the drivers front wheel well and up around the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.

Is it a blown brake line? Shoddy work from the shop? Frustrating that I just got them replaced and now having issues. Any insight is appreciated, see attached photos for more.

 

[PeteCain]

Hey all

Got my rotors and pads replaced by a shop this past Wednesday. Driven the truck a few times since but this morning on the highway, went to slow down and the brakes faded bad. Pedal goes all the way to the floor basically before it bites. Was able to make it home fine, but noticed a whole bunch of oil/grease in the drivers front wheel well and up around the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.

Is it a blown brake line? Shoddy work from the shop? Frustrating that I just got them replaced and now having issues. Any insight is appreciated, see attached photos for more.

UPDATE: After poking around here and poking around under the hood, I'm thinking this may be my same issue: Master Cylinder, Seal, or Booster

Could this be what happened to my truck? My fluid looks much the same - dark brown, and my reservoir is FULL. Haven't tried driving the truck since it happened, so I'm not sure if my braking power came back after it cooled down. And if the fluid boiled and leaked, could it have leaked on the front rotor and caused braking troubles?

Am I crazy, or is flushing the brake fluid something the shop should've done when they replaced my rotors and pads the other day?

 

[MattB1982]

Hey all

Got my rotors and pads replaced by a shop this past Wednesday. Driven the truck a few times since but this morning on the highway, went to slow down and the brakes faded bad. Pedal goes all the way to the floor basically before it bites. Was able to make it home fine, but noticed a whole bunch of oil/grease in the drivers front wheel well and up around the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.

Is it a blown brake line? Shoddy work from the shop? Frustrating that I just got them replaced and now having issues. Any insight is appreciated, see attached photos for more.

Glad you made it to a stop safely. One of my biggest fears is brakes going out. I hope you rinsed that all off as soon as you got home brake fluid eats paint for fun. Looking at inside of your the tire it looks like it’s leaking out of the bleeder screw. But with the amount shown, maybe they tore a hole in the brake line by letting the calipers dangle as they changed pads and such. Have you identified where it came from yet? I would grab some eye pro and have a friend pump the pedal while I was looking.

 

[Devbot]

Every so often when I'm at WOT going up a hill or passing someone I get this random boost in power, like I'm getting a sudden 10hp out of nowhere. It's very noticeable and it even seems like the RPMs climb a little faster when it happens. Any ideas what it could be? I have the Big 3 and new plugs/wires, so maybe fuel or timing related? By random boost I mean I'll be halfway up the hill and been riding a gear for upwards of 10 seconds already, so it's not just the feeling of a downshift. Almost feels like VTEC funny enough

 

[Endlessblockades]

UPDATE: After poking around here and poking around under the hood, I'm thinking this may be my same issue: Master Cylinder, Seal, or Booster

Could this be what happened to my truck? My fluid looks much the same - dark brown, and my reservoir is FULL. Haven't tried driving the truck since it happened, so I'm not sure if my braking power came back after it cooled down. And if the fluid boiled and leaked, could it have leaked on the front rotor and caused braking troubles?

Am I crazy, or is flushing the brake fluid something the shop should've done when they replaced my rotors and pads the other day?

Take the following with a grain of salt because I'm no brake expert! If you only had the shop do pads and rotors they should have removed the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and covered it with a rag or something and left the rest of the fluid system alone. This is done because you need to compress the caliper pistons to fit the new (thicker) pads. The fluid is forced back into the system and it has to go somewhere. They may not have removed the cap and blew it off, or they didn't use a catch rag and it overflowed. Not sure how it found it's way up front, or why they didn't notice that and clean it up when they put the cap back on, but that's my crackpot theory.

Have you compared the mystery fluid to the fluid in the brake reservoir to see if it looks, feels, smells the same?

 

[Mecap]

Hello all, my steering wheels seems to have some vertical play when going over bumps. The kicker is… I’ve replaced basically everything other than steering shaft components.
New OEM LBJs, OEM steering rack (inner and outer tie rods included), OEM LCA, Icon UCAs, still seems like there’s vertical play over a bump. What’s weird is that this play doesn’t seem visible, and I can’t force the wheel up and down, it’s almost as if I can just feel what the suspension is doing, and it seems like I can feel a little too much. Maybe this is just how these trucks are, but I’ve only ever really driven mine so I can’t tell. This is sometimes accompanied by clunks that seem like they come from the front driver side when going over abrupt bumps. Haven’t really been able to figure either issue out. Thanks for your help!