The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Cargo Cult]

Chasing a misfire in cylinder 3, changed spark plugs, wires, and finally fuel injectors but problem persisted. Performed a compression test with #3 at ~140 coming in well below the other five all at around 195.

Took an endoscope to 1, 3, and 5 after engine had been sitting for almost a day to see if there was coolant accumulating in the cylinder, coming in through head gasket or crack but found none. Wasn't too surprised as engine doesn't rough idle at cold start, only runs rough after reaching operating temp.

Based on photos below, any ideas as to what could be the cause of the misfire and/or over all engine health? I've accepted that engine will likely need to be swapped or rebuilt but want to understand exactly what went wrong.

Cylinder 1

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 5

 

[Bad Luck]

Chasing a misfire in cylinder 3, changed spark plugs, wires, and finally fuel injectors but problem persisted. Performed a compression test with #3 at ~140 coming in well below the other five all at around 195.

Took an endoscope to 1, 3, and 5 after engine had been sitting for almost a day to see if there was coolant accumulating in the cylinder, coming in through head gasket or crack but found none. Wasn't too surprised as engine doesn't rough idle at cold start, only runs rough after reaching operating temp.

Based on photos below, any ideas as to what could be the cause of the misfire and/or over all engine health? I've accepted that engine will likely need to be swapped or rebuilt but want to understand exactly what went wrong.

Cylinder 1

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 5

How many miles?

EDIT: Since you've identified cylinder 3 as low compression the next step would be to do a leak down test of cylinder 3. When you do that take the radiator cap off, engine oil fill cap off, and remove the intake piping. Listen for air coming the exhaust pipe, throttle body, and engine oil fill cap. Also look for air bubbles coming from the radiator. Do this with a cold engine preferably.

 

[MattB1982]

Chasing a misfire in cylinder 3, changed spark plugs, wires, and finally fuel injectors but problem persisted. Performed a compression test with #3 at ~140 coming in well below the other five all at around 195.

Took an endoscope to 1, 3, and 5 after engine had been sitting for almost a day to see if there was coolant accumulating in the cylinder, coming in through head gasket or crack but found none. Wasn't too surprised as engine doesn't rough idle at cold start, only runs rough after reaching operating temp.

Based on photos below, any ideas as to what could be the cause of the misfire and/or over all engine health? I've accepted that engine will likely need to be swapped or rebuilt but want to understand exactly what went wrong.

Cylinder 1

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 5

You didn’t say if you changed ignition coil, I had a stutter out of cylinder 1 through a code that popped check engine, it was a bad coil at the time had 200k on it

 

[Kilo44]

Weird issue with 2001 4runner

Hello everyone,
I'm looking for some guidance on where to go from here.

The story is:
I was on ice and shifted to 4wd (button on the side of the knob), the vehicle lost traction and revved high and clunked into 4wd. It drove for about a week on flat ground then when I was driving up a little hill and it felt like it gave way and stopped moving. (This is an automatic transmission. It doesn't have the pink milkshake issue.)

It makes a whirring sound in park and drive and won't move at all. It sounds like something is stripped and won't engage. It won't move in 2wd or 4x4. But the weird thing is that it will move under its own power when shifting between 2wd and 4x4.

I have taken the rear axles out along with the 3rd member and the gearing looks in tact. One of the ends of the axle shafts looks a little stripped but still has grooves and doesn't look like that's the issue.

Any thoughts? I've called the dealership and they said they haven't heard of this before.

Thank you for your time and help in advanced.

 

[clearock]

[MENTION=699563]Kilo44[/MENTION], 1st thing I'd do is climb under ur 4runner on jacks and make sure make sure what ur shiftier is saying and what ur transmission shiftier lever r tells u is the same thing. To say make sure ur fully in gear, but from what ur saying it sounds like ur tcase isn't fully engaging, I'd pull the shiftier area in cab apart and make sure ur tcase stick is fully engaging. I had my stick shiftier housing crack on me before with was not allowing the tcase to shift properly.

goodluck

 

[spartacus]

Weird issue with 2001 4runner

Hello everyone,
I'm looking for some guidance on where to go from here.

The story is:
I was on ice and shifted to 4wd (button on the side of the knob), the vehicle lost traction and revved high and clunked into 4wd. It drove for about a week on flat ground then when I was driving up a little hill and it felt like it gave way and stopped moving. (This is an automatic transmission. It doesn't have the pink milkshake issue.)

It makes a whirring sound in park and drive and won't move at all. It sounds like something is stripped and won't engage. It won't move in 2wd or 4x4. But the weird thing is that it will move under its own power when shifting between 2wd and 4x4.

I have taken the rear axles out along with the 3rd member and the gearing looks in tact. One of the ends of the axle shafts looks a little stripped but still has grooves and doesn't look like that's the issue.

Any thoughts? I've called the dealership and they said they haven't heard of this before.

Thank you for your time and help in advanced.

The safety button under the little tab in the corner is not depressed. Jack the truck up all four corners and see if the shift linkage moves. The transfer case shift motor actuater might be stuck. tapping on it might work. you can remove it and manually engage the fork.

 

[spartacus]

Morning everyone.
I've been lurking here for a while since I bought my '96 4runner two years ago.
I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a mechanic in the NOVA area. I recently got a lift kit for it that consists of OME 883 front coils, OME 891 rear coils, MCM Uniball UCAs, extended brake lines, and new shocks for the front and rear. When I took it to my mechanic up here he said that he doesn't have the time to do the job as well as he would want to. So now I am looking for someone who would be able to install all of these parts in my general area. If anyone has suggestions, I would greatly appreciate them.
Thanks!

Not a bad job to do it on your own. Might take a minute if you've never done it before.
Suspension Lift (Coils and Shock Replacement) - YouTube

 

[jkurto1]

Try posting in classifieds section for better results

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

How many posts are needed to start a new thread?

 

[Cargo Cult]

You didn’t say if you changed ignition coil, I had a stutter out of cylinder 1 through a code that popped check engine, it was a bad coil at the time had 200k on it

Coils weren't replaced but I did swap between cylinders and the misfire didn't follow the coil.

How many miles?

EDIT: Since you've identified cylinder 3 as low compression the next step would be to do a leak down test of cylinder 3. When you do that take the radiator cap off, engine oil fill cap off, and remove the intake piping. Listen for air coming the exhaust pipe, throttle body, and engine oil fill cap. Also look for air bubbles coming from the radiator. Do this with a cold engine preferably.

187k miles, will try the leak down test next to pinpoint where I'm losing compression

 

[I❤️4runners]

Hey guys, I have a question for those of you who have done the LED retrofit headlights on you 3rd gen. How much wiring did you have to do when you got the new set up? I'm looking at buying the whole thing fully assembled complete with a new headlight shroud and lens. Is it as simple as plugging the new wires into the old wiring harness or do I need to run additional wiring? I'm also wondering if there's a way to wire the halos into my parking lights so I can run the halos without running the projectors all the time.

Thank you for your help!

 

[toy0da]

Suggestions for steering racks?

RockAuto has 8 options.

One says 4WD (mine is not) and one says filter not included. Some say inner tie rods included, some do not. One says without outer tie rod ends. If one says complete, should I just assume that all these components are included?

Prices range from 206 - 377, and then there are plenty on eBay for under 200.

I've found a local guy on the FB page who is going to do the install for me. What do you guys think? Thanks!

 

[MCgrease08]

I'm prepping for a front brake line replacement and Tundra Brake upgrade on my '97 SR5. I ordered new Wheeler lines to replace the soft lines and lower hard lines to the caliper, but I also want to replace the "Way 2" brake fluid value / diverters that sits on top if the frame. (Part numbers 90904-12041 and 90904-12040).

The bolts holding them on are on the inner slide of the frame and seem to be a bear to get to. I can get it a wrench on each, but not a rachet. Of course the 27 year-old bolts are rusted pretty solid.

Does anyone have any tips on the best way to access those inner frame bolts and get more leverage without pulling the steering rack below?

 

[Bad Luck]

Suggestions for steering racks?

RockAuto has 8 options.

One says 4WD (mine is not) and one says filter not included. Some say inner tie rods included, some do not. One says without outer tie rod ends. If one says complete, should I just assume that all these components are included?

Prices range from 206 - 377, and then there are plenty on eBay for under 200.

I've found a local guy on the FB page who is going to do the install for me. What do you guys think? Thanks!

I would buy an OEM rack and be done with it for another 15-20 years. OEM comes with inner tie rods and boots. Aftermarket steering racks for our vehicles generally are shit and most leak within 1-2 years. Some don't even make it that long.

 

[catturdcollector]

Lifting front end 1inch

Hello, I have some questions regarding a 1 inch lift in the front end. I already have 1 inch icon coils in the rear with 5100s along with those. I am wondering if there is anything I would need to do to compensate for the 1 inch lift, as well as if anyone could recommend me some prebuilt coilovers with 5100s in the front that would even out with the one inch lift in the back. Thanks for the feedback and if there's a better thread please let me know

 

[gh25_]

E locker - trying to find

Hey there guys,

I have posted on here before about the e-locker but this time I have a different question. So right now I am just TRYING to find it. I need the e-locker axle housing, the actual e-locker, as well as the ECU, the harness / plugs and the harness bracket under the gas tank for it. Unfortunately the only junkyards by me are LKQ Pick-apart and are not very good at all, I don't think a single e-locker 3rd gen 4runner has passed through there. I would like to go thru the junkyard since that would be cheapest I could for sure get all of it for under 500 dollars together. The only other option I have is on e-bay and everyone wants outrageous prices for just the locking differential itself. My question is just that does anybody have any other ideas of where I could possibly attain what I need? I have been keeping my eye out on the junkyard(s) for what seems like months now, but no avail.

Also one last thing, so when I do the e-locker swap my gear ratio would also change since the e-lockers are only in the 4.10 or the 4.30 gear ratio. My truck is a 2WD so right now it has the 3.73 gears I believe. What changes would I see from going to a 3.73 gear ratio to 4.10 or 4.30?

Thanks,

- GH

 

[octanejunkie]

Hey there guys,

I have posted on here before about the e-locker but this time I have a different question. So right now I am just TRYING to find it. I need the e-locker axle housing, the actual e-locker, as well as the ECU, the harness / plugs and the harness bracket under the gas tank for it. Unfortunately the only junkyards by me are LKQ Pick-apart and are not very good at all, I don't think a single e-locker 3rd gen 4runner has passed through there. I would like to go thru the junkyard since that would be cheapest I could for sure get all of it for under 500 dollars together. The only other option I have is on e-bay and everyone wants outrageous prices for just the locking differential itself. My question is just that does anybody have any other ideas of where I could possibly attain what I need? I have been keeping my eye out on the junkyard(s) for what seems like months now, but no avail.

Also one last thing, so when I do the e-locker swap my gear ratio would also change since the e-lockers are only in the 4.10 or the 4.30 gear ratio. My truck is a 2WD so right now it has the 3.73 gears I believe. What changes would I see from going to a 3.73 gear ratio to 4.10 or 4.30?

Thanks,

- GH

Lots to unpack here so I'll take a shot

Forget ebay, rip off. Look in the 3rd gen 4runner groups on FB, I see e-locker rear ends selling for $800-1,200 depending on included equipment (harness, button, ecu, etc) - another option is to get an e-locker rear and convert to cable from electric actuator - one less thing to fail and no computer/electronics to mod or install.

Lockers are usually 4.1 ratio if from a manual SR5 or 4.3 if from a Limited (automatic) - only 4-cyl trucks came with 3.73 from the factory, but anyone could have swapped anything in there - this includes YOUR 2WD truck. Most of those were 4.1 ratio. Do a spin test of the drive shaft to validate (google if you don't know how).

Reality of buying used gears/rear ends, they often need to be rebuilt. That being said, could be a good time to freshen up bearings, gears, seals, etc - or change ratios; and yes, your front diff ratio needs to match. I bought a "pre-seasoned" 3rd member with the gears I wanted in it and they blew up after about 2K miles - I sent that 3rd to ECGS and had it rebuilt with new gears and a 5 year warranty. Y

 

[Dubz25_]

Fuel tank skid plate price

Hey all,

Really quick question, what would be a fair price for a used fuel tank skid plate? Mine is a little ugly and I found one on Facebook that looks a lot better but neither of us know where to start the negotiation at.

Thanks!

 

[gh25_]

Hey all,

Really quick question, what would be a fair price for a used fuel tank skid plate? Mine is a little ugly and I found one on Facebook that looks a lot better but neither of us know where to start the negotiation at.

Thanks!

I would say shoot him an offer for 75. It appears they go around 90 - 200 dollars online but 200 is way too much. 75 is very reasonable. It is just a piece of metal after all.

 

[MCgrease08]

I'm prepping for a front brake line replacement and Tundra Brake upgrade on my '97 SR5. I ordered new Wheeler lines to replace the soft lines and lower hard lines to the caliper, but I also want to replace the "Way 2" brake fluid value / diverters that sits on top if the frame. (Part numbers 90904-12041 and 90904-12040).

The bolts holding them on are on the inner slide of the frame and seem to be a bear to get to. I can get it a wrench on each, but not a rachet. Of course the 27 year-old bolts are rusted pretty solid.

Does anyone have any tips on the best way to access those inner frame bolts and get more leverage without pulling the steering rack below?

I was able to get both the driver and passenger side Way, 2 bracket bolts busted loose last night. A few liberal applications of PB blaster and the closed end of a combo wrench did the trick even though I was only able to lossen each bolt by about a quarter of a turn at a time.

The angles are different for each side. The passenger side was easier because I was able to come up from below with my hands crammed in small openings on either side of the bolt. Had my forarms been any bigger I prbably would have been out of luck.

Driver side was easier to access from the top but the curly-Q hard brake line from the master cylinder is smack dab in the way. Not much leverage on that side and actually spinning the bolt out took a lot of patience and repositioning of the wrench.

 

[WayneM]

HVAC System Manual/Diagram 2001 T4R?

Does anyone have a Manual or Diagram for the HVAC System on a 2001 4Runner with the Automatic Climate Control?

My A/C is acting funny. It will not cool the cabin much below outside temp. *But*, I think the refrigerant circulation part of the system is OK. I suspect the blend door actuator or heater shutoff valve or ???? (although I'm not 100% certain of either).

The metal connectors on the return refrigerant lines seem to get plenty cold. Also, the vents will blow out equally cold air... until the engine heats up. That's about when the vent air becomes mediocre. And finally, it seems the windshield and dash vents blow colder than the floor vents.

Those reasons are why I suspect the air management rather than the refrigerant loop. But, I'm still just guessing. I could really use the HVAC System Manual or Diagram, if available. Thanks!!

BTW, I've searched the forum (and interweb), but no luck. I don't see a good existing T4R.org thread for this question. And, I don't have enough posts to create a new thread.