The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Although I don’t have personal experience with these I’m pretty sure I’ve heard that they’re fine. In terms of pricing I think that’s probably worth every penny.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Been a few years for the price they a good deal, chrome nor metal as thick as OE. Mounting holes for limited trim,
to body, 3-piece rear required some enlarging for fitment.
Awesome, thank you
So the front mounting holes need some modification for non-limited trim?
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Awesome, thank you
Just saying don't expect a perfect fit out of box might need some tweaking.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I haven't. I bought the Certifit equivalent, and they fit fine, despite the "sortafit" reputation. I ground off the chrome, and did a heavy duty refinish in graphite on both sides. (They tend to rust out from the back. So whatever you do, address this before you install them or they won't last long.) Six years later they are just fine in salt-belt Pennsylvania.
Hi All,
Im trying to decide how deep to go money wise into my 4runner as I am at a turning point with having to decided to replace the transmission. I dont want to loose my shirt on this build completely so im trying to gauge how much this is worth if I were to sell it before I dump more money in. All opinions are welcome...
How much would this sell for private sale:
1997
5 spd.
4 cly 2.7l 3RZ
2wD
320k miles
Engine full rebuild at 200k miles, so its got 120k on the rebuild.
Replaced original 5spd with used unit with 50k miles.
Rust free frame, only minor surface rust on body in two spots
Peeling clear coat on top surfaces
Everything else being average... what do you think this would go for?
In California.
Im trying to decide how deep to go money wise into my 4runner as I am at a turning point with having to decided to replace the transmission. I dont want to loose my shirt on this build completely so im trying to gauge how much this is worth if I were to sell it before I dump more money in. All opinions are welcome...
How much would this sell for private sale:
1997
5 spd.
4 cly 2.7l 3RZ
2wD
320k miles
Engine full rebuild at 200k miles, so its got 120k on the rebuild.
Replaced original 5spd with used unit with 50k miles.
Rust free frame, only minor surface rust on body in two spots
Peeling clear coat on top surfaces
Everything else being average... what do you think this would go for?
In California.
LostInNewtonCo
New member
Help me find the right part! Looking for the front shock eye bushing that connects the LCA to the strut on my 3rd gen. Mine are super cracked and squished. I can find moog and OEM, but I’ve seen bad reviews of the stock rubber ones. They wear out too quickly. So I’m looking for polyurethane ones. Anybody have a link to decent lower shock bushings? Any advice?
Edit! specifically, I’m looking for a polyurethane or just a durable or better replacement for this part:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FGJD3...PWZ5D6SEC6V?linkCode=ml2&tag=kimmystephens-20
Edit! specifically, I’m looking for a polyurethane or just a durable or better replacement for this part:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FGJD3...PWZ5D6SEC6V?linkCode=ml2&tag=kimmystephens-20
Last edited:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Maybe $1500-3000 in a private sale - a 2WD 4-cyl with a bad transmission is nobody's unicorn
5-speeds are easy to fix, plenty of shops will still do it. Fix it and drive it, imo
Toyota4r1999
New member
Slight tire wobble
So I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner 2wd I started to notice a slight tire noise or wobble sound on the driver front, I’ve checked my wheel
Bearing and all my suspension components are good. I even took off my 33s tires and put stocks back on and it still there but not as bad does anybody know what it could be, somebody told me the rotor but I don’t know I’m lost help.
So I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner 2wd I started to notice a slight tire noise or wobble sound on the driver front, I’ve checked my wheel
Bearing and all my suspension components are good. I even took off my 33s tires and put stocks back on and it still there but not as bad does anybody know what it could be, somebody told me the rotor but I don’t know I’m lost help.
spartacus
Senior Member
Could be the lca bushings. Also' check the uca sway bar bushings.
Do I need a new Valve Cover or JB Weld?
Fixing some oil leaks on my 1998 V6. and noticed the breather elbow coming out of my driver-side valve cover is loose. It definitely had some oil residue coming out of it. It feels snug-ish if I push it back in. However, I don't know what's intended to seal here. As far as I can tell, the elbow is only sold with a new VC.
Seems like a good source of a vacuum leak to me. What do y'all think I should do?
Fixing some oil leaks on my 1998 V6. and noticed the breather elbow coming out of my driver-side valve cover is loose. It definitely had some oil residue coming out of it. It feels snug-ish if I push it back in. However, I don't know what's intended to seal here. As far as I can tell, the elbow is only sold with a new VC.
Seems like a good source of a vacuum leak to me. What do y'all think I should do?
I believe it's just a press fit part. I'd clean both parts really good and reinstall with a thin coat of jbweld and a mallet
I think you're right. Upon re-visiting it, the thingy fits pretty snug. Overnighting some high temp JB Weld
What would you guys recommend for a 98' 4runner limited with 134,000 miles? I prefer a quiet car that is very smooth... I chose a 4runner because I love them and need enough storage.
So I need new suspension, I like a quiet ride as mentioned.
I would like to replace brakes, is the tundra upgrade definitely worth it?
New paint job would be nice, not exactly sure how to go about that besides go to Mexico.
Any suggestions would be great thanks.
So I need new suspension, I like a quiet ride as mentioned.
I would like to replace brakes, is the tundra upgrade definitely worth it?
New paint job would be nice, not exactly sure how to go about that besides go to Mexico.
Any suggestions would be great thanks.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I think you're right. Upon re-visiting it, the thingy fits pretty snug. Overnighting some high temp JB Weld
Had that happen. Used a drill bit shank end hair larger than inside diameter of elbow tapped it into elbow removed with pliers tapped it into valve cover.
New OEM shocks and springs will give you the best ride at factory height. My first 4Runner I did the 13WL Tundra brakes on, but my current one is all stock brakes. I prefer the feel of the stock brakes, and I haven't noticed any issues braking with the stock brakes with the rear shoes properly adjusted. The Tundra brakes felt very soft because of the increased brake caliper piston size. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are in the mountains and need the extra rotor thickness to keep from warping them or you have large tires installed.
MCgrease08
New member
I'm surprised no one has replied to this, but since I just went through the process of buying all of these tools, I'll chime in.
I started working on my rig with a cheapo 1/4" itty-bitty socket set that I've had from before I can even remember. It pretty much sucked and was super slow but I was able to get a lot of rusted bolts off and managed to remove the rear bumper and side rails with just this rachet, sockets and a set of Irwin bolt extractor sockets for the super rusty or rounded bolt heads.
As I got more serious, I moved up to a Harbor Freight 1/2" rachet and 12 point chrome socket set, supplemented with 16" breaker bar. Again, those did pretty much everything I needed them to do. In hindsight I would have gone with a 6-point socket set since that works better on ultra-rusty bolts, but 12 point still managed pretty well.
Then I started drinking the Milwaukee tool Kool-Aid. I now have the Fuel 1/2" mid-torque impact wrench which I really like. I also waited for a sale on the Milwaukee 1/2" Deep Impact socket set. But I think a cheap HF impact set will likely be fine too. I've been able to get the impact drill on most bolts with the deep sockets, but there have been a few tight places where it wasn't possible. Milwaukee also makes a stubby impact with slighly less power, but still a lot, if size is a big concern. But at $19 a set, you may as well get both a deep and shallow impact set.
There are tons of good cordless impacts out there these days, so any name brand will be fine. I would stay away from the Bauer brand at HF, but the Hercules line seem to be getting great reviews from people who own them.
I personally think the high-torque impacts are overkill for the home mechanic. The mid-torques have plenty of power. 1/2" vs. 3/8" is just personal preference. I like 1/2" because that's what I already had for my regular socket set when I got my impact. You can always get an adapter bit and step down to 3/8" if you need to, but for me, mo' bigger is mo' better.
Devbot
New member
Fixing some oil leaks on my 1998 V6. and noticed the breather elbow coming out of my driver-side valve cover is loose. It definitely had some oil residue coming out of it. It feels snug-ish if I push it back in. However, I don't know what's intended to seal here. As far as I can tell, the elbow is only sold with a new VC.
Seems like a good source of a vacuum leak to me. What do y'all think I should do?
If you're in WA I recommend looking into Belzona. Stuff blows JB Weld out the water. They're located in Maltby I believe.
RocketCityRunner
New member
I am doing a 1" body lift on my 96 4runner. While I am doing this, I thought it would be a good time to change the body mount bushings. I want to go with OEM. My concern is I am not sure when these spare parts were last manufactured. I checked a few of the parts to see if they were used on new models but they appear to have only been used on the gen 3 4runners. Do you think that these spare parts have degraded? Certainly not to the extent that the ones on my vehicle have but maybe enough to make them not worth the price? Any thoughts would be helpful.
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