The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[phattyduck]

Hello all! Working on a TB/WP replacement and it’s been going fine. While I was loosening the adjuster bolt for the AC pulley my wrench slipped and smacked my condenser pretty good. Attached is a pic of the fins now, should I be okay? Didn’t hear any hissing or anything like that to say refrigerant was escaping but I figured I’d ask while I have it apart. Thanks!

Its a bit late now, but bent fins won't hurt anything other than ability to cool. You only need to worry about the condition of the tubes in terms of leaks. That pic looks like things are fine in that regard. You can straiten out fins with whatever small tools you have in your toolbox, at least to a certain extent.

-Charlie

 

[AdrianVeil]

Hello, greetings.
I have a 1999 Toyota 4runner 5vz 4x4, I have problems related to acceleration and loss of power, it turns out that when accelerating fully it does not go over 1500 rpm, it feels like it shakes and chokes, I can reach 38 mph but slowly, releasing or pressing the accelerator to prevent it from choking because if I press it the rpm drops again and it does not run anymore, it also emits a strange smell, as if it does not burn the fuel well, I have already changed the ignition coils and their cables, I clarify that they are OEM since the originals are usually a bit expensive, I changed spark plugs, changed air filter, cleaned MAF sensor, throttle body, apparently the intake hoses are not broken or have leaks, even so it does not show the engine light. I hope you give me a guideline to be able to solve this problem, I will be grateful.

 

[phattyduck]

Hello, greetings.
I have a 1999 Toyota 4runner 5vz 4x4, I have problems related to acceleration and loss of power, it turns out that when accelerating fully it does not go over 1500 rpm, it feels like it shakes and chokes, I can reach 38 mph but slowly, releasing or pressing the accelerator to prevent it from choking because if I press it the rpm drops again and it does not run anymore, it also emits a strange smell, as if it does not burn the fuel well, I have already changed the ignition coils and their cables, I clarify that they are OEM since the originals are usually a bit expensive, I changed spark plugs, changed air filter, cleaned MAF sensor, throttle body, apparently the intake hoses are not broken or have leaks, even so it does not show the engine light. I hope you give me a guideline to be able to solve this problem, I will be grateful.

That sounds like clogged/ruined catalytic converter(s) to me. If no exhaust can get out of the tailpipe/engine, it will have lots of trouble running.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=788063]AdrianVeil[/MENTION] I'll second what [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] said, IR thermometer check before and after cats.

 

[AdrianVeil]

I will do some tests, I will put the scanner to check if it gives some errors, since this unit has 253k I know that it will present multiple failures eventually. Taking advantage of your experience, how many rpm at idle are normal, whether with the AC on or off? Mine goes down to 600 rpm and I don't know if that's normal.

 

[shapster]

Dark fluid leak from rear wheel

Hello all,
On a road trip back to college in the runner. Today noticed a lot of black fluid- either dif or brake all around this area on my driver rear wheel. Seems to be freshly coming from the abs speed sensor? What do you guys think… failed axle seals? Maybe something with brakes? I still need to check the breather cap and see if it’s plugged.

 

[phattyduck]

Hello all,
On a road trip back to college in the runner. Today noticed a lot of black fluid- either dif or brake all around this area on my driver rear wheel. Seems to be freshly coming from the abs speed sensor? What do you guys think… failed axle seals? Maybe something with brakes? I still need to check the breather cap and see if it’s plugged.

Yup, axle seal. There should be no fluid 'behind' the ABS sensor - unless the axle seal is leaking.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

Maybe something with brakes? I still need to check the breather cap and see if it’s plugged.

Thats a leak, pretty good one. Breather cap maybe cause.
Brakes - M/C will need fluid check it. 1st.
Depending, Diff - pull fill plug check it.
Easy answer, easy fix varies.

 

[NachoRunner]

Rear axle seal for sure. Check diff for metal shavings as 96redrunner suggested. My experience though is that these diffs are pretty resilient though so if funds are tight you can probably get many more miles out of it. I got a pretty good deal on my '97 because it was diagnosed with a bad rear diff. I don't know the whole story but 7 years later in the CO rockies, with occasional heavy towing, the rear diff doesn't make a sound and little to no shavings show up. I wish I could say the same about my front diff. which brings me to my question.

This same '97 sometimes has issues with going in/out of 4wd. I was towing a heavy load of firewood and it would not come out of 4hi. I kept it under 50mph for the 5-10 mile drive. Making a turn on the last mile I hear a POP and see a big cloud of black smoke accompanied by a terrible stink. I look and see nothing to do, so limp the last mile home.

I run air in the front diff fill hole and it leaks out of the front diff pinion seal(front diff rear oil seal according to manual). I check the diff breather and it is clear and 'working'. Why would it blow like that instead of releasing pressure? I remove the drain plug and it has a decent amount of shavings but no chunks like I saw in Timmythetoolman's front axle seal video(Thanks Timmy!). He mentioned in the comments that guy was still driving it 3 years later(another reason I say the diffs on these things are resilient). Limping it around my yard low on oil and all, it doesn't make any sounds and shifts in and out of 4wd.

I'm thinking to just replace the seal and give it a go. Any thoughts? I got part number 90311-38066 from DROKUIII's video on the job: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyXpCcPQ6bk. He says it's for 99-02. I'm thinking it's the same but will dig some more. Anything else I should consider while I'm there? I have a minor leak on what I think is the rear main seal but don't know if I want to get that deep into it. I have a tranny jack and all but seems like a PITA. I'll dig on the site for more info and we'll see.

Mostly I want to know why this popped like it did if the breather was not clogged?

BTW, I dig this thread. I was going to post my own on the issue but couldn't because I don't have enough posts due to the fact that the treasure trove of info here usually answers my questions. There wasn't much on this, mostly front axle seals so again, I appreciate this post!

Cheers ya'll!

 

[chalant.gove]

Auto Window on passenger is acting strange after repair

A couple of months ago my car got broken into, and both passenger windows got smashed. I did both repairs myself, but now the rear passenger window works perfectly but the front one is weird whenever you use the Auto function.

It will go all the way down fine, but when you want to go all the way up it will reach the top and then go halfway back down by itself (video attached at the link).

Just wondering if I need to redo the repair or if there's a way to reprogram the window.

Shared album - IJ Jones - Google Photos

 

[Yeeyeeyotalife]

Wiring diagram master window switch and every switch what wires go were

Hi so my master window switch on driver's door melted from switch I got another one out of a year older 4 runner but it's pins on connector are in different spots and I have a lot of wires I can't figure out how to rewire so the windows roll up and down again it's crazy how this thing is wired. Does anyone have a detailed diagram of each wire and were it goes on the connector it's a 2000 4runner sr5 4x4 3.4 factory the switch that came with it has auto windows for drivers and passenger the switch I'm trying to use has only auto for drivers side so I'm confused id really appreciate any info

 

[DJRodriguez88]

1999 5vz cali emissions trd supercharged with urd 7th

Torque pro says my car is always in closed loop. Even on startup in the morning. The only time i see open loop is when theres a heavy engine load (such as during hard acceleration, up steep hill, or deceleration).

What could be causing this?

Im gonna start looking into vacuum/exhaust leaks to see why my LTFT are always at 13-14% during idle and low throttle. Not sure if this perpetual closed loop thing is related

New oem maf, front a/f sensor, denso ik22 plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injextors all within last 5k miles. This symptom has existed since i got the truck 25k miles ago

 

[phattyduck]

Hi so my master window switch on driver's door melted from switch I got another one out of a year older 4 runner but it's pins on connector are in different spots and I have a lot of wires I can't figure out how to rewire so the windows roll up and down again it's crazy how this thing is wired. Does anyone have a detailed diagram of each wire and were it goes on the connector it's a 2000 4runner sr5 4x4 3.4 factory the switch that came with it has auto windows for drivers and passenger the switch I'm trying to use has only auto for drivers side so I'm confused id really appreciate any info

Get the correct switch. There are smart/communications between the two sides with the dual-auto switch. A '99-'02 master switch should work for you. '96-'98 won't work.

-Charlie

 

[phattyduck]

A couple of months ago my car got broken into, and both passenger windows got smashed. I did both repairs myself, but now the rear passenger window works perfectly but the front one is weird whenever you use the Auto function.

It will go all the way down fine, but when you want to go all the way up it will reach the top and then go halfway back down by itself (video attached at the link).

Just wondering if I need to redo the repair or if there's a way to reprogram the window.

Shared album - IJ Jones - Google Photos

Have you tried full-up and full-down manually multiple times (holding the switch in each direction for ~5 seconds after it reaches the stops). After that, test using the 'auto' position on the switch. That is the reset procedure for *most* Japanese auto window systems.

There is a section in the FSM that you may have to follow if that doesn't work. Body Electrical, page 69 (in the 2000 manual, it might be slightly different for other years).

-Charlie

 

[Doctorlambo]

Ok…I’ve got a tough one. I have 2000 4Runner. Bought with a check engine light indicating faulty solenoids. I replaced them. One was definitely shorted out. Code is off. But…

I noticed something odd. If I go above 50 miles per hour plus for at least 3 miles and then come to a complete stop, it will not engage into gear! It will engage if I go shift into reverse or to park and then any gear. Also, When I hit 50 miles per hour, I can have overdrive off and it does the same behavior in 3rd gear. So, it seems to be speed dependent and not gear dependent.

Odd thing….all the gears work just fine driving around town. I can also use the gear selector to manually select the gears and they all work. Only happens once I drive on the highway a few miles.

I went ahead and replaced the valve body, replaced the TPS and cleaned the MAS. Same behavior!

Any ideas?! So odd!

 

[phattyduck]

Ok…I’ve got a tough one. I have 2000 4Runner. Bought with a check engine light indicating faulty solenoids. I replaced them. One was definitely shorted out. Code is off. But…

I noticed something odd. If I go above 50 miles per hour plus for at least 3 miles and then come to a complete stop, it will not engage into gear! It will engage if I go shift into reverse or to park and then any gear. Also, When I hit 50 miles per hour, I can have overdrive off and it does the same behavior in 3rd gear. So, it seems to be speed dependent and not gear dependent.

Odd thing….all the gears work just fine driving around town. I can also use the gear selector to manually select the gears and they all work. Only happens once I drive on the highway a few miles.

I went ahead and replaced the valve body, replaced the TPS and cleaned the MAS. Same behavior!

Any ideas?! So odd!

Check fluid levels carefully... Incorrect levels can cause some funky shifting like that.

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

Ok…I’ve got a tough one. I have 2000 4Runner. Bought with a check engine light indicating faulty solenoids. I replaced them. One was definitely shorted out. Code is off. But…

I noticed something odd. If I go above 50 miles per hour plus for at least 3 miles and then come to a complete stop, it will not engage into gear! It will engage if I go shift into reverse or to park and then any gear. Also, When I hit 50 miles per hour, I can have overdrive off and it does the same behavior in 3rd gear. So, it seems to be speed dependent and not gear dependent.

Odd thing….all the gears work just fine driving around town. I can also use the gear selector to manually select the gears and they all work. Only happens once I drive on the highway a few miles.

I went ahead and replaced the valve body, replaced the TPS and cleaned the MAS. Same behavior!

Any ideas?! So odd!

what brand parts ? that can make a difference right there

 

[96RedRunner]

Ok…I’ve got a tough one. Any ideas?!

Maybe off the wall but, sounds electrical.
MPH and miles driven may be setting/confusing TCU taking sequence you do to correct till next time.
A pinched/broken wire for solenoid control where you first started solenoid installation.
Pinched wire possibly not enough to set code yet enough for trouble, cut wire would I'd think.
Random thoughts on a random Friday good luck.

 

[Yeeyeeyotalife]

Is there a diagram for dummies on which color wire controls what windows and locks the go to master window switch on 2000 Toyota 4runner sr5 my switch melted in trying to bypass the auto front and passenger window . Is there a way to make every window motor work from there switch without master switch interference.

 

[Davidadav]

Is there a diagram for dummies on which color wire controls what windows and locks the go to master window switch on 2000 Toyota 4runner sr5 ...

Yes, the full color electrical manual is available through the online FSM, which you can get access to on the Toyota site for something like $25 for 48 hours. I ended up going on and downloading every PDF I could put my hands on. :-D This way you can get the year-specific docs for your rig.

Https://techinfo.toyota.com