96RedRunner
Senior Member
Rough idle points me to Cat gaskets your check engine bulb could be bad.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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Rough idle points me to Cat gaskets your check engine bulb could be bad.
Hello all, one of my first posts here, I've been searching high and low but can't seem to find an answer regarding keys/fobs. I'd rather not start a new thread for this, but has anyone successfully programmed a land cruiser key/fob combo to a 3rd gen? from the research I've done, found that frequencies match at 315 MHz, same immo. chip, 4C. TR47 key blade, only thing concerning is FCC ID. 4R is HYQ1512Y, LC is HYQ1512V. Any and all info is greatly appreciated.
Question regarding 3rd gen auto trans fluid level: recently purchased a 2001 and when I check my fluid level cold it is well above the top of the cold fill range. However, when I check it hot (with what I believe is the correct procedure of fluid at approx 165 degrees F after cycling from P all the way down to L and back slowly on a level surface and checking while still running) it shows right at the bottom of the hot fill range. It does have an inline Hayden 678 cooler if that makes a difference. I know it is bad to overfill these things and it just doesn’t make sense to me. Anyone have any insight? Thanks.
2002 Transmission Oil pump
Good morning from Chicago to all you lovely T4R owners, this is my first post I suppose. I appreciate you all forming this community to help each other out.
I come to you because I am currently following the FSM directions on re doing the seals on my third gen t4r and find that the input shaft does not turn as smooth as another A340F that I have laying around whenever torquing the oil pump to spec.
Any ideas why this is happening? As I torque down the oil pump is pressed in further and I am not sure at what point I am supposed to stop, when I reach torque without having other bolts loosen, the input shaft has completely lost it's ability to turn
Good morning from Chicago to all you lovely T4R owners, this is my first post I suppose. I appreciate you all forming this community to help each other out.
I come to you because I am currently following the FSM directions on re doing the seals on my third gen t4r and find that the input shaft does not turn as smooth as another A340F that I have laying around whenever torquing the oil pump to spec.
Any ideas why this is happening? As I torque down the oil pump is pressed in further and I am not sure at what point I am supposed to stop, when I reach torque without having other bolts loosen, the input shaft has completely lost it's ability to turn
OpenYota
New member
You're fine.
If you want to just for safe keeping you can add a little bit of fluid after the transmission has warmed up so it reaches the top of the hot line and leave it at that.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Agreed. The cold lines are for getting the level 'close' for a warm up drive to set the final level with the 'hot' lines. Set it near/at the top mark. The A340 is more tolerant of levels than many other Toyota transmissions, in my experience.
-Charlie
flakydeltoid
New member
New 4Runner Owner w/ Some Questions
Hi folks, happy to be here. I recently purchased my dream car (1998 4Runner SR5 4WD w/ 281,000 miles). I purchased it for very cheap and so the main things I was looking out for was: Frame Rust (none), Radiator fluid (no mixing), and an engine that runs (haha). I purchased it in NW Arkansas and drove it back to OKC about 3 hours. A few things noticed on this drive: The suspension is very bouncy and it essentially undrivable above 60mph. The bounce gets too much and you could easily lose control of the vehicle if you're going too fast. One thing I noticed is if you let off the gas while its bouncing, the bouncing subsides. The suspension on this is a set of 3" lift Rough Country springs and shocks in the back (just a few years old I think), and stock struts in the front with a spacer lift on top. I think thats my issue, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. My plan is to essentially rebuild the full front suspension with a 2" strut lift as well as replacing most of the front suspension parts with OEM.
It also has a full-vehicle vibration at 55mph and above. I do believe this is due to unbalanced wheels (my rear drivers side tire is wearing unevenly on the outside of the tire).
I'm also planning on replacing most of the steering components to remove some slop, and a few other things in this order:
1. Lower Ball Joints (still stock)
2. Radiator (still stock)
3. All my drive belts and tensioners (A/C squeel)
4. Front Bumper
5. Whichever engine gasket is causing oil leak (I think its valve cover gaskets)
I am a relative newbie to this, I've never done much work on my own vehicles other than oil changes, tire rotations, replacing a few sensors, etc. Please let me know what advice you might have for me and if I should re-prioritize my list, or if I've violated any forum etiquette that I might be unaware of :tongue1:
Hi folks, happy to be here. I recently purchased my dream car (1998 4Runner SR5 4WD w/ 281,000 miles). I purchased it for very cheap and so the main things I was looking out for was: Frame Rust (none), Radiator fluid (no mixing), and an engine that runs (haha). I purchased it in NW Arkansas and drove it back to OKC about 3 hours. A few things noticed on this drive: The suspension is very bouncy and it essentially undrivable above 60mph. The bounce gets too much and you could easily lose control of the vehicle if you're going too fast. One thing I noticed is if you let off the gas while its bouncing, the bouncing subsides. The suspension on this is a set of 3" lift Rough Country springs and shocks in the back (just a few years old I think), and stock struts in the front with a spacer lift on top. I think thats my issue, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. My plan is to essentially rebuild the full front suspension with a 2" strut lift as well as replacing most of the front suspension parts with OEM.
It also has a full-vehicle vibration at 55mph and above. I do believe this is due to unbalanced wheels (my rear drivers side tire is wearing unevenly on the outside of the tire).
I'm also planning on replacing most of the steering components to remove some slop, and a few other things in this order:
1. Lower Ball Joints (still stock)
2. Radiator (still stock)
3. All my drive belts and tensioners (A/C squeel)
4. Front Bumper
5. Whichever engine gasket is causing oil leak (I think its valve cover gaskets)
I am a relative newbie to this, I've never done much work on my own vehicles other than oil changes, tire rotations, replacing a few sensors, etc. Please let me know what advice you might have for me and if I should re-prioritize my list, or if I've violated any forum etiquette that I might be unaware of :tongue1:
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I am not a fan of rough country lifts or the "pucks" up front. Rough country , to me rides rough. There is lots of good info on here about quality lifts.
My previous runner one was a sonoran steel 2 inch lift which I liked, current rig is only a 1 inch lift
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=789093]flakydeltoid[/MENTION] Congrats looks as it has good bones sounds it needs 250k+ refurb.
3rd Gen Informational Threads --- A MUST READ For New Members
3rd Gen Informational Threads --- A MUST READ For New Members
3gen pizza cutter sugestión
Can someone let me know if 255/75/17 clean on my 97 4Runner. I’m debating on either that or a 275/70r17. I want to stay with the pizza cutter style any suggestions and please if you have a similar pizza cutter set send pictures would love to have an idea. For my 4Runner build as pizza cutter
Can someone let me know if 255/75/17 clean on my 97 4Runner. I’m debating on either that or a 275/70r17. I want to stay with the pizza cutter style any suggestions and please if you have a similar pizza cutter set send pictures would love to have an idea. For my 4Runner build as pizza cutter
My 2002 reads the same way. You have to measure the fluid when the transmission is at operating temp. You have to be in park or neutral. If you measure when the engine is cold or with the engine off it will not be accurate.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Both sizes are 32" basically so there shouldn't be much of an issue. It would help to know what wheel and spacer geometry you are running since these didn't come with 17" rims.
The 275's will be quite a bit wider than the 255's. I don't think the 275's would fall under the "Pizza Cutter" category
blizzaks vs toyo gsi6 studless
have run blizzaks for years and have not had to chain up in years. However a friend of mine says the toyo are better in ice and snow. and of course the tire shops that sell them each say theres is better. Internet reviews are mixed.
my blizzaks are worn out for the coming season...most of the driving is on packed snow and ice
anyone have experience with the toyos
have run blizzaks for years and have not had to chain up in years. However a friend of mine says the toyo are better in ice and snow. and of course the tire shops that sell them each say theres is better. Internet reviews are mixed.
my blizzaks are worn out for the coming season...most of the driving is on packed snow and ice
anyone have experience with the toyos
Does the rear end feel like you are towing a 2 wheel trailer that is wobbling side to side? If so, the problem is likely the bushings in the upper and lower rear control arms are shot. I replaced all 4 rear control arms and that resolved the problem I was having. I had 265,000-ish miles on the odometer then. I couldn't keep a wheel alignment on the front a year later and had to replace the bushings on all 4 front control arms. Timmy the Toolman has great videos on replacing the bushing on the control arms, but you will need a press to get them out. 3rd Gen 4runner Bushing Replacements - YouTube That's why I opted to install new control arms instead of just replacing the bushings. Parts were expensive but I will never have to do it again. Good luck!
Guam4Runner
New member
Hard Shift into reverse. Thoughts on what to do?
I recently got a 1999 4wd. Replaced Ball joints and rack and pinion. However, it has a hard shift into reverse and a slight hard shift from 1st to 2nd. Any ideas on how big of an issue this is? I got a flush but it didn't seems to help.
I recently got a 1999 4wd. Replaced Ball joints and rack and pinion. However, it has a hard shift into reverse and a slight hard shift from 1st to 2nd. Any ideas on how big of an issue this is? I got a flush but it didn't seems to help.
brokedownwallet
Member
Trouble finding 16in Bronze wheels
I love the motegi mr150s in 16in but it seems that there are only 2 instock no matter where I look and they are all displaying the same distributors stock. Seems that these along with the level 8 mk6s are both discontinued and nobody really wants to make 16in wheels anymore. Anyone have any luck finding bronze wheels that have the same style design in a similar price range? Currently looking at KMCs but methods are a little too expensive. Should I bite the bullet and do the 3rd gen sin of getting 17in wheels?
I love the motegi mr150s in 16in but it seems that there are only 2 instock no matter where I look and they are all displaying the same distributors stock. Seems that these along with the level 8 mk6s are both discontinued and nobody really wants to make 16in wheels anymore. Anyone have any luck finding bronze wheels that have the same style design in a similar price range? Currently looking at KMCs but methods are a little too expensive. Should I bite the bullet and do the 3rd gen sin of getting 17in wheels?
OpenYota
New member
Grease your driveshaft and change your transfer case fluid.
OpenYota
New member
Check out FN Wheels, they have 16" wheels in different flavours and styles, specifically bronze.
Customer service is great and the quality is top notch.
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