phattyduck
Elite Member
The timing belt cannot 'slip' - it is a toothed belt. Get a new Aisin kit and do it right unless you know everything under the timing covers is fairly new and in good shape.
-Charlie
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
- Thread starter da_crew10
- Start date
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-Charlie
Are you sure you gave it enough time to dry out? I did that one time washing my 4runner and I was getting a bunch of misfires and had to unplug the spark plugs and leave it for a day or two that way to allow the water to actually dry out.
lakeshorebrewer
New member
Cranks but will not start issue
Hello,
Just following up on a couple of previous posts relating to my 2002 SR5 that would crank but not start. After a ton of research and troubleshooting she is running again.
The root cause was that the timing belt tensioner pivot bolt backed out and the washer that sits between the tensioner and block fell down into the crankshaft timing gear. The washer hit the crankshaft sensor surface not allowing it to sense any of the passing teeth from the reluctor. Since the crankshaft sensor was not sending pulses to the ECU, no spark was the result.
I took the opportunity to do the timing belt replacement with water pump, cam and crank seals since everything was apart. In good fashion, I got to put the timing belt on twice as I was off by one tooth on my first try. The crank gear alignment of the belt got me.
So a few thing to pass along to anyone who may be interested from learning from my mistakes...
- A "newly rebuilt" ECU is not guaranteed to work, even with everything in good shape. I had to switch back to the original ECU before it would run.
- A full physical inspection of sensors is necessary. Just because it meters out fine doesn't mean it is good. Mine measured the right ohms but had a smashed face.
- Follow the data and just don't throw parts at a problem. I started to get impatient and it just cost me more time and money.
- When you are doing work that will be covered up when you finish, take a lot of pictures to reference later to answer the questions... "did I do this or what did that look like?".
Thanks to everyone on the forum. The level of knowledge and sharing to fantastic.
Cheers.
Hello,
Just following up on a couple of previous posts relating to my 2002 SR5 that would crank but not start. After a ton of research and troubleshooting she is running again.
The root cause was that the timing belt tensioner pivot bolt backed out and the washer that sits between the tensioner and block fell down into the crankshaft timing gear. The washer hit the crankshaft sensor surface not allowing it to sense any of the passing teeth from the reluctor. Since the crankshaft sensor was not sending pulses to the ECU, no spark was the result.
I took the opportunity to do the timing belt replacement with water pump, cam and crank seals since everything was apart. In good fashion, I got to put the timing belt on twice as I was off by one tooth on my first try. The crank gear alignment of the belt got me.
So a few thing to pass along to anyone who may be interested from learning from my mistakes...
- A "newly rebuilt" ECU is not guaranteed to work, even with everything in good shape. I had to switch back to the original ECU before it would run.
- A full physical inspection of sensors is necessary. Just because it meters out fine doesn't mean it is good. Mine measured the right ohms but had a smashed face.
- Follow the data and just don't throw parts at a problem. I started to get impatient and it just cost me more time and money.
- When you are doing work that will be covered up when you finish, take a lot of pictures to reference later to answer the questions... "did I do this or what did that look like?".
Thanks to everyone on the forum. The level of knowledge and sharing to fantastic.
Cheers.
Attachments
[email protected]
New member
Thank you for the guidance. The thing is that one of the reasons I need the OBD2 is because of issues w the 4x4 tranny. The lights on the dash for the 4x4 were flashing and would not go off. They did finally go off. But I want to check it out. So I need an OBD2 that reads transmission codes and many of the ones I looked at specifically do not read them.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Missing Rear Seat Bottom Latch Rods on 2001 4Runner - Need Help/Parts
Hi everyone!
I have a 2001 4Runner SR5 2WD, and I'm missing the front latch rods/hooks that bolt to the underside of the seats.
The black floor brackets are there, but the rods on the seat bottom that drop into them are gone. All I've got are the rusty triangular mounting plates under the cushion where the rods should bolt in.
Does anyone know where I can get the rods I need?
Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Hi everyone!
I have a 2001 4Runner SR5 2WD, and I'm missing the front latch rods/hooks that bolt to the underside of the seats.
The black floor brackets are there, but the rods on the seat bottom that drop into them are gone. All I've got are the rusty triangular mounting plates under the cushion where the rods should bolt in.
Does anyone know where I can get the rods I need?
Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
phattyduck
Elite Member
Find a set of used manual seats and swap all the best parts into one set... Plenty of 4Runners getting parted out if you search. Those parts were never available separately.
-Charlie
j_2000_limited
Junior Member
Hello,
Quick question regarding the oem tow points and tow hook on the 3rd gen 4runner. Is the mounting pattern between the front and rear the same? Can I use a pair of extra RH and LH tow points from the front on the the rear of my vehicle?
Quick question regarding the oem tow points and tow hook on the 3rd gen 4runner. Is the mounting pattern between the front and rear the same? Can I use a pair of extra RH and LH tow points from the front on the the rear of my vehicle?
olive house
New member
2001 4Runner smoking
Hi everyone, I'm a newbie here but a long-time 4Runner owner, but also an absolute novice in terms of engine repair. I'm hoping to get some advice about white smoke coming from the engine. It appears to be coming from a black substance (oil?) burning when the engine heats up. There also appears to be a decent amount of oil or something residue buildup on the engine block itself. I've compared it to my other 2001 4Runner which does not smoke, and the smoking one does 'look' worse. Obviously my concern is whether this is likely a blown head gasket. I've attached pictures of both the smoking and non-smoking vehicles, with the smoking part circled. The pictures are taken from the passenger side looking down at the back passenger side corner/side of the engine. Not sure why one is rotated 90 degrees. Any thoughts would be appreciated! -Kevin
Hi everyone, I'm a newbie here but a long-time 4Runner owner, but also an absolute novice in terms of engine repair. I'm hoping to get some advice about white smoke coming from the engine. It appears to be coming from a black substance (oil?) burning when the engine heats up. There also appears to be a decent amount of oil or something residue buildup on the engine block itself. I've compared it to my other 2001 4Runner which does not smoke, and the smoking one does 'look' worse. Obviously my concern is whether this is likely a blown head gasket. I've attached pictures of both the smoking and non-smoking vehicles, with the smoking part circled. The pictures are taken from the passenger side looking down at the back passenger side corner/side of the engine. Not sure why one is rotated 90 degrees. Any thoughts would be appreciated! -Kevin
Attachments
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
That looks like a leaking valve cover gasket, very common on these trucks. Oil dripping onto the hot exhaust manifold, hence the smoke.
olive house
New member
Thanks for the reply. I scrubbed it clean and it doesn't smoke now, of course, but I guess we'll see how long it takes for it to build up again. I'll take it in unless replacing the valve cover gasket is easy DIY. Does the oil buildup along the engine (above the splotch, on the bolts etc) look normal or is it indicating of a head gasket issue? I'm not seeing the same gunk on the other 4Runner.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
The built up oil on the bolt area is from the leaking valve cover, nothing to do with a head gasket, the bolts are what is securing the valve cover!
Last edited:
olive house
New member
Nice! Thanks guys!
New to the forums,
Picked up a 99 4runner
Have the famous p0172 code
Have been reading all the threads and see people finding the problem in the injectors.
I have -40ltft
-3 - -7 stft at idle. After about 2k rpm the stft seems to balance itself out
Ive cleaned the throttle body, MAF, replaced air filter.
Fixed vacuum leaks
Replace upstream and downstream 02s
I took it to a shop and they replace the fuel pressure regulator. Still having the rich code.
I am about to replace the injectors with motorwest injectors.
Want to know what other people think about my situation
Picked up a 99 4runner
Have the famous p0172 code
Have been reading all the threads and see people finding the problem in the injectors.
I have -40ltft
-3 - -7 stft at idle. After about 2k rpm the stft seems to balance itself out
Ive cleaned the throttle body, MAF, replaced air filter.
Fixed vacuum leaks
Replace upstream and downstream 02s
I took it to a shop and they replace the fuel pressure regulator. Still having the rich code.
I am about to replace the injectors with motorwest injectors.
Want to know what other people think about my situation
phattyduck
Elite Member
Involved, but not hard DIY. Look up the Timmy the Toolman video on the 5vz valve cover gasket replacement on YouTube.
-Charlie
Foreign4UN
New member
UCA to Spindle Bolt
Long story short, im installing a long travel kit (total chaos’ first gen tubular kit for 3g4r and 1g tacoma).
Im having a really tough time aligning this uca bolt to the spindle, its trying to go in crooked and i dont want to damage the nylon locking nut or puck provided by TCF. Ive reached th maximum amount the bolt/uniball wants to articulate to get into the puck.
Ignore the welding of the puck i had some play in it and decided to firm it up, and im almost certain this didn't warp the spindle/puck.
-Ive tried jacking down the UCA with a bottle jack a good bit and it still seems to be going in slightly crooked but better.
-Ive also made sure the extended axles(oem axles for tundra +3inchs) are seated properly in the diff so they arent binding.
-Also ive tried jacking up the lower control arm but i just end up lifting the vehicle.
-I know someone may say to take the coilover(standard locked offroad 2.5x8in with eibach 550lb spring) out while i do this but if i do that then i cannot get the coilover back in.
Kinda at my wits end going in circles with this install, any help would be much appreciated especially if you have experience with long travel kits on these cars. For reference the passenger side went easier, still similar issues but for some reason that side managed to go in smoother.
Long story short, im installing a long travel kit (total chaos’ first gen tubular kit for 3g4r and 1g tacoma).
Im having a really tough time aligning this uca bolt to the spindle, its trying to go in crooked and i dont want to damage the nylon locking nut or puck provided by TCF. Ive reached th maximum amount the bolt/uniball wants to articulate to get into the puck.
Ignore the welding of the puck i had some play in it and decided to firm it up, and im almost certain this didn't warp the spindle/puck.
-Ive tried jacking down the UCA with a bottle jack a good bit and it still seems to be going in slightly crooked but better.
-Ive also made sure the extended axles(oem axles for tundra +3inchs) are seated properly in the diff so they arent binding.
-Also ive tried jacking up the lower control arm but i just end up lifting the vehicle.
-I know someone may say to take the coilover(standard locked offroad 2.5x8in with eibach 550lb spring) out while i do this but if i do that then i cannot get the coilover back in.
Kinda at my wits end going in circles with this install, any help would be much appreciated especially if you have experience with long travel kits on these cars. For reference the passenger side went easier, still similar issues but for some reason that side managed to go in smoother.
Attachments
phattyduck
Elite Member
2in lift suspension questions
Hi,
I’ve recently purchased a 97 4Runner limited, I’m hoping to get into some wheeling/driving around in the mountains. I’m looking for a 2in lift but not sure what to go with. I’m hoping to keep it cheap around $400-$500 so I’ll probably skip on the Bilsteins, but let me know with any recommendations. I’d prefer to keep the suspension pretty soft. If anyone has a set up they’d be willing to sell me let me know
Hi,
I’ve recently purchased a 97 4Runner limited, I’m hoping to get into some wheeling/driving around in the mountains. I’m looking for a 2in lift but not sure what to go with. I’m hoping to keep it cheap around $400-$500 so I’ll probably skip on the Bilsteins, but let me know with any recommendations. I’d prefer to keep the suspension pretty soft. If anyone has a set up they’d be willing to sell me let me know
- Status
