The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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No power to stereo

All fuses checked with multimeter(acc under dash, dome under hood). No power to stereo wiring harness checked with multimeter. All other electronics work. It sat for awhile when I was building rear bumper now wont turn on. Any ideas???
 
Hello everyone, I just purchased my first 4runner 1998 limited {from the scrap yard) the old owner drove it without diff fluid and sheerd the pinion on the front diff. Anyways he swapped the rear hatch (i don't know him) and the 2 little plugs are plugged in but the big plug that goes into the controler (the controler is blue) dosent match and he left it unplugged, what would i need to buy/do to finish the job? and im also looking for a rear diff lock acuator. thank you for your time and happy new years.
 
Changing spark plugs and wires on new to me 2000 4runner v6.

The coil packs are corroded where the plug wires attach.

Is this common? Should I clean them up with contact cleaner and sand paper and call it good?

Coils 1,2 and 3

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Hello everyone, I just purchased my first 4runner 1998 limited {from the scrap yard) the old owner drove it without diff fluid and sheerd the pinion on the front diff. Anyways he swapped the rear hatch (i don't know him) and the 2 little plugs are plugged in but the big plug that goes into the controler (the controler is blue) dosent match and he left it unplugged, what would i need to buy/do to finish the job? and im also looking for a rear diff lock acuator. thank you for your time and happy new years.
Sounds like you have a wrong year hatch on there. They are mechanically the same (metal shell), but the wiring and control system between '96-'98 and '99-'02 is totally different. You'll need to get the right wiring that match your year and swap it into your hatch shell. You may also need the hatch window roller motor, I'm not sure on that one.

-Charlie
 
Changing spark plugs and wires on new to me 2000 4runner v6.

The coil packs are corroded where the plug wires attach.

Is this common? Should I clean them up with contact cleaner and sand paper and call it good?

Coils 1,2 and 3
Clean it and put a bit of dielectric grease on there to stop more corrosion. That should get you going for now.

Whatever you do, don't get cheap or knock-off coils...

-Charlie
 
Clean it and put a bit of dielectric grease on there to stop more corrosion. That should get you going for now.

Whatever you do, don't get cheap or knock-off coils...

-Charlie

That's what I was hoping.
If they had to be replaced Id go OEM for sure.


This thing is a 150k mile 5 speed that appears to have received very little maintenance. I've spent around $3500+ on OEM parts over the last year and do to a vibration I cant track down, I've gotten almost no use out of it. I'm about to accept defeat and see If a shop can figure out the cause of the vibration. Until then Its killing me to keep throwing $$$ at it. Hopefully these coils clean up well.
 
Another misfire puzzle

Hey All,

I think this is where a new account is supposed to post new questions?

I started randomly getting a 301 misfire. After the first time, it went away and was good for a week, and then it returned. I've replaced the plugs and wires within the last year. I swapped the coils to see if the problem moved and it didn't. I did a compression test and all 6 were close to 200psi. Decided to replace injectors with re-manufactured ones with 1 year warranty. Did the valve covers at the same time. Had a hiccup with accidentally getting carbon down into the IAC while cleaning the intake. Seem to have that sorted after some careful cleaning of the IAC. She settles at 800rpm after warmup. Everything seemed to be running smoothly after a test drive. Started back up after an hour and now there's a misfire 303. Feeling pretty discouraged. What do you think I should do next?


2000 4runner SR5 manual
325,000 km (202k miles)
Everything stock
 
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Hey All,

I think this is where a new account is supposed to post new questions?

I started randomly getting a 301 misfire. After the first time, it went away and was good for a week, and then it returned. I've replaced the plugs and wires within the last year. I swapped the coils to see if the problem moved and it didn't. I did a compression test and all 6 were close to 200psi. Decided to replace injectors with remanufactured ones with 1 year warranty. Did the valve covers at the same time. Had a hiccup with accidentally getting carbon down into the IAC while cleaning the intake. Seem to have that sorted after some careful cleaning of the IAC. She settles at 800rpm after warmup. Everything seemed to be running smoothly after a test drive. Started back up after an hour and now there's a misfire 303. Feeling pretty discouraged. What do you think I should do next?

Sounds like it moved from cylinder #1 to #3. Clear the code and swap coil pack #1 and #3 to see if the misfire moves back to cylinder #1. If it does, check the rubber boot on that coil pack for any damage that would allow arcing. You could swap boots from one of the other coil packs to see if the misfire follows that.
 
Sounds like it moved from cylinder #1 to #3. Clear the code and swap coil pack #1 and #3 to see if the misfire moves back to cylinder #1. If it does, check the rubber boot on that coil pack for any damage that would allow arcing. You could swap boots from one of the other coil packs to see if the misfire follows that.

I could do this, no harm in trying I guess. I'll take a closer look at the boots. But like I said, I had already swapped coils back when it was 301, and the problem didn't move with the swap. After that, the coils went back onto the same plugs before and after the problem moved from #1 to #3. I guess one of the 6 replacement injectors could happen to be faulty. I was very careful with the installs.
Some other details:
MAF cleaned
Fuel filter replaced
No other codes apart from the original 301 and now 303
 
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I could do this, no harm in trying I guess. I'll take a closer look at the boots. But like I said, I had already swapped coils back when it was 301, and the problem didn't move with the swap. After that, the coils went back onto the same plugs before and after the problem moved from #1 to #3. I guess one of the 6 replacement injectors could happen to be faulty. I was very careful with the installs.
Some other details:
MAF cleaned
Fuel filter replaced
No other codes apart from the original 301 and now 303

Like you said, it still could be the injectors. A few years ago I had problems with the GB remanufactured injectors. I remember driving uphill at 65 and the engine started stumbling bad. I dont recall if it threw a code though it likely did. Those injectors were in for just a few months. 3 of them broke at the bottom when I pulled them. I believe a few of them were leaking. My 4Runner still has issues going up long steep hills, low on power where it didn't use to have problems. Not sure if its the newer reman injectors, or maybe the cat is starting to clog, could be a number of things. It drives fine in town, which is good enough for 300k on the clock and 27 years old. Do you have an OBD2 scanner? What are the STFT and LTFT at when driving? Particularly in the freeze frame data for the 301 and 303 codes.
 
Random Question: Does there exist a bracket to install offroad or fog lights in the front turn signal location?

I am modifying my corner lights to function as turn signals, so I wont need the blinkers down in the front bumper, and thought it would be a good spot for fog lights or offroad lights. A smaller light like the Baja Designs S2 or something like that. With a mount that would either fit in the turn signal housing, or (more likely) replace the housing entirely. I think it might look cleaner than surface-mounted lights?

I imagine this wouldn't be a difficult item for someone to fab or 3D print, as I believe the turn signal housing mounts with just 2 screws.

FYI: This is a 2000 SR5 but it's getting a '96-'98 front bumper, and would like to keep appearance OEM or OEM+
 
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Hi,

I’ve recently purchased a 97 4Runner limited, I’m hoping to get into some wheeling/driving around in the mountains. I’m looking for a 2in lift but not sure what to go with. I’m hoping to keep it cheap around $400-$500 so I’ll probably skip on the Bilsteins, but let me know with any recommendations. I’d prefer to keep the suspension pretty soft. If anyone has a set up they’d be willing to sell me let me know

3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
 
Upsidedown... now what?

Hello,

Sad day yesterday when my wife rolled our 02 SR5 on black ice. It's totaled but I had it brought home. Not sure if I want to get another or move it along but I have a lot of new parts on it.

The question I have is about it being upside down for an hour and a half. There wasn't a lot of impact to the front and I think the engine and transmission are likely fine except... what kind of damage may have been done when it was upside down? I have a hard time believing that the drive train is trashed.

Does anyone have any experience with this kind of thing? What should I look at initially and what steps should I take to protect the two if things look OK?

Thank you for any advice.
 

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The question I have is about it being upside down for an hour and a half. There wasn't a lot of impact to the front and I think the engine and transmission are likely fine except... what kind of damage may have been done when it was upside down? I have a hard time believing that the drive train is trashed.

Does anyone have any experience with this kind of thing? What should I look at initially and what steps should I take to protect the two if things look OK?

Thank you for any advice.
Pull the spark plugs and crank it - oil will be in the cylinders. Expect the motor and/or trans mounts to be ripped/ruined. Make sure it has enough oil and trans fluid (didn't leak out upside down). Put the plugs back in, start it and let the smoke show dissipate. Then you can show a good running drivetrain to someone interested in buying parts.

Too bad the frame got bent - it looks like it was in good shape.

-Charlie
 
Truck maybe totaled but since you didn't mention it I assume it protected your wife and she walked away with minor to no injuries?

If so that's awesome, and the truck did what it was suppose to do!!

I add just a little to what [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] has already posted, it looks like your radiator got damaged if so and the engine is unharmed you will need to be careful not to overheat it since the cooling system will not be working, only run it for a few minutes and then let it sit for a while before running it again, but before you try and crank it over check that the fan is not into the radiator, if the radiator is OK and not into the fan even better but check the coolant level....if you have the radiator driven back into the fan that will have to be resolved first, also before you reinstall the spark plugs make sure you clean any oil on the insulator and electrode with carburetor or brake cleaner.
 
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Hello, I am having an electrical issue and I am wondering if anyone has had a similar experience.
2000 SR5 4WD A/T keeps on blowing the ECU-IG fuse whenever I turn the key to accessory and has a P0500 code. Transmission speed sensor and wheel speed sensors are fine, drives normal but ABS light is on and I have to use the shift interlock. Here is the interesting part, windows don’t roll up or down, except when I have the doors closed and press the power lock button. After pressing the button I have a 10ish minute window where I can roll the windows up and down. Whenever I press the door lock button with the car off and with a new fuse in, the dash lights light up like I put it into accessory mode, and then turn off within a second. The fuse first blew about 3 months ago, I put a new one in and it was fine until about a week ago. Any Ideas?
 
Truck maybe totaled but since you didn't mention it I assume it protected your wife and she walked away with minor to no injuries?

If so that's awesome, and the truck did what it was suppose to do!!

I add just a little to what [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] has already posted, it looks like your radiator got damaged if so and the engine is unharmed you will need to be careful not to overheat it since the cooling system will not be working, only run it for a few minutes and then let it sit for a while before running it again, but before you try and crank it over check that the fan is not into the radiator, if the radiator is OK and not into the fan even better but check the coolant level....if you have the radiator driven back into the fan that will have to be resolved first, also before you reinstall the spark plugs make sure you clean any oil on the insulator and electrode with carburetor or brake cleaner.

My wife is fine. The 4r did a perfect job on deploying the airbags and having the impact minimized. Interesting thing is that all 4 doors opened on the roll. Potentially a designed response?


The radiator did stay out of the engine so that is good bit it's toast. Letting it sit for at least a week as winter has returned but plan to remove the radiator and poke around as phatty duck suggested. If things look OK will clean things up including plugs and zoom test it.

Will be parting it out as best I can. Will revisit my love of these in a few years when I retire. If any interest for a cheap heap of parts in Michigan, let me know. I don't expect to make a bunch of money but want to keep the parts out of the land fill. I also have a small collection of parts on the side.
 
My wife is fine. The 4r did a perfect job on deploying the airbags and having the impact minimized.

<snip>

Will be parting it out as best I can. Will revisit my love of these in a few years when I retire. If any interest for a cheap heap of parts in Michigan, let me know. I don't expect to make a bunch of money but want to keep the parts out of the land fill. I also have a small collection of parts on the side.

Good to hear your wife is good, though I'm sure a bit shaken up.

Shame about the truck. Being local I'll be keeping an eye out for your thread when you start the part out.
 
In search of part number for brake line to frame rail clips.

After starting some frame repair tasks I realized I don't know how to remove the clips that hold the rear brake line to the drivers frame rail. I managed to break one and would like to find replacements before I have to remove the rest to install the safety-cap frame repair kit.

Does anyone have a part number for this clip. It's designed to secure 2 lines to the frame.

I did find the clips available on ebay but they ship from China and I'm not sure they will arrive without some hassle. They also want to sell you 20 at a time .

https://ebay.us/m/eC5Zut

Thanks
 
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