Rockdawg84
New member
That's a good Idea. I will pm a mod and see about changing the title and then I will update the first post to reflect that.
The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread
- Thread starter Rockdawg84
- Start date
That's a good Idea. I will pm a mod and see about changing the title and then I will update the first post to reflect that.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Which Trail-Gear kit did you use?
Sean K.
New member
I have all the parts already (DUMC + Marlin's adapter to the 3.4L)....but I'm waiting to install it until I'm ready to cut the IFS out and put in the FJ80 front axle.
Still have to widen the FJ80 axle 4", finish the rear housing work and add disc brakes, build/plumb a cell and skid under the rear cargo area and sleeve/plate the center frame section for the link basket before I cut off the IFS.
I may rework the rear tire carrier and shorten the sliders before cut the IFS too..... Lots of work.
Still have to widen the FJ80 axle 4", finish the rear housing work and add disc brakes, build/plumb a cell and skid under the rear cargo area and sleeve/plate the center frame section for the link basket before I cut off the IFS.
I may rework the rear tire carrier and shorten the sliders before cut the IFS too..... Lots of work.
Rockdawg84
New member
I used the Taco adapter (orange one) and then the adapter that mates the gear reduction box to the stock T-Case. The one thing to remember is that you have to change out the reduction box gear from 21 spline to 23. I spent the day wheeling today (yes on a tuesday. woo hoo) and the cases just worked flawlessly.
Sean K.
New member
Nothing. It is the best money you can spend in terms of capability beyond lockers.
Rockdawg84
New member
Couldn't agree more but I might argue that (even though I didn't do it in this order) dual cases before lockers can take you a long way. Get both and you will never look back. hehe
Sean K.
New member
I might actually agree....one locker and a crawl box is probably more useful than just 2 lockers. I still think at least one locker is the best buy in terms of making a T4R capable offroad.
Sean K.
New member
Well, I have a locker on the bench, so...
Where can I educate myself on this further? ($$)
Inchworm Gear Products from Low Range Off-Road | Dual Transfer Case | Tacoma Adapters | Lefty
https://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/line-ups
https://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/line-ups/gears
www.trailgear.com
It can get pretty confusing.....you have a chain drive tcase which is weaker than the older gear driven style. You *can* convert to gear driven.....but if you want to keep your current IFS or use a driver drop solid front axle, you'll need the "lefty" from Inchworm. You can add a second, gear driven case in front of your chain driven case as well to keep driver drop. Also, in the gear driven cases, you can buy 4.7:1 gears....factory low range is 2.28 in the gear driven cases.
IMO, Marlin's parts are the highest quality....but customer service has severely slipped since he stopped dealing with customers directly.
All of the designs now are very similar though....to be fair.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
OK, so if want to retain both the IFS and my stock transfer case, what am I looking at? An adapter and a 1/2 of a junkyard tacoma transfer case?
(besides the obvious: driveshaft modifications, remote sticks, additional crossmember or crossmember relocation?)
(besides the obvious: driveshaft modifications, remote sticks, additional crossmember or crossmember relocation?)
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Rockdawg84
New member
you will need two adapter plates, 1 taco plate and one for the dual adapter. then you will need a reduction box from an early (pre tacoma) 4cyl pickup or 4runner. preferably 1985-1988. Then you will need a new input shaft gear to convert reduction box to 23 spline. You have the choice of stock 2.3:1 or 4.7:1 gear ratio. Then follow the directions and put it all together. One other thing to consider is to put a new set of bearings in the reduction box as the ones that are in the used box are at least 28 years old and might be a little worn. Then yes you will need front and rear drive shafts as well as some electrical extensions for the plugs that are on the stock tcase. It seems like a lot but totally worth it.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
OK, so grab the reduction box from a first gen 22RE IFS 4runner, check.
Let me ask: did you have to do crossmember work to install? who modified your driveshafts?
steezemcqueen
Moderator
I suppose you can add me to the list
1997 SR5
3.4 Turbocharged
5 Speed
Marlin Tacobox with 4.7 reduction
4.88 Revolution gears
ARB front and E-locker rear
315/75/16 Cooper STT Pro's
1997 SR5
3.4 Turbocharged
5 Speed
Marlin Tacobox with 4.7 reduction
4.88 Revolution gears
ARB front and E-locker rear
315/75/16 Cooper STT Pro's
Rockdawg84
New member
if you have a manual trans you can get away for a little while without modifying the crossmember but you will want to build something more stout eventually if you have an automatic you will need to do a crossmember right away. Drive shafts I had rebuilt at a local drive shaft shop here in town.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
I'm assuming I can just work up the additional length for the front shaft and reduction in length from the rear shift in CAD? or is there a rule of thumb for that?
Sean K.
New member
Rockdawg84
New member
You don't need CAD....just a measuring tape.
exactly
once it is all installed measure flange to flange from the tcase to the axle. take your drive shafts to a shop with those measurements and pick them up a couple of days later, and install then drive really slow.
