The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread

[Snowy21]

I've run the 4.7 in front of my chain case for about 2 years now without any problems. Probably about 15k road miles and whatever rock garden I can throw at the truck in 12:1.

I'm not an engineer by any stretch but to me the tcases see the same amount of strain whether you are 2.28/2.56, 4.7/2.56, or 2.28/4.7. If all four tires are bound up, it will find the weak point regardless of what order your reduction gears are in. Normally that is the output shafts fwiw. 21 spline inputs are susceptible to breaking at the neck too but everyone on here should be 23 spline

 

[MandAtaco]

Ran 4.7 in front of my chain case in my 01 Taco for 8 years and 90K miles, lots of hard wheeling with 0 issues. Thats why I'm putting the same set up in my 00 Runner, it was an awesome setup! Both trucks were Auto's too.


Update on mine, Crawler has new bearings and is put back together, Replacement transfer case has been "twin sticked" and reassembled, triple stick kit showed up last week from Rad Designs, and I got a 1/2" B/L in the garage ready to go in to help clear them. I need to modify the rear cross member now to give myself room to stab it in, install the B/L, and I should be just about ready to put it all together. I've got a couple trips in January so hopefully February/March time frame I'll be working on it. Getting close!

 

[IBallEngineer]

I'll swing by Marlin Crawler on moday and talk to them. Since they are here in Fresno! Will update you guys.

I recognize your avatar as Bald Mountain. You guys who live in the Valley are so lucky. My Avatar pick was taken on the trail to Red Lake. I only get up there once a year these days, you guys are so lucky!

 

[Sean K.]

I've run the 4.7 in front of my chain case for about 2 years now without any problems. Probably about 15k road miles and whatever rock garden I can throw at the truck in 12:1.

I'm not an engineer by any stretch but to me the tcases see the same amount of strain whether you are 2.28/2.56, 4.7/2.56, or 2.28/4.7. If all four tires are bound up, it will find the weak point regardless of what order your reduction gears are in. Normally that is the output shafts fwiw. 21 spline inputs are susceptible to breaking at the neck too but everyone on here should be 23 spline

No, they don't. Gear multiplication increases load as it travels downstream.

Can the input on the chain drive case handle that extra multiplication though?....that's the question. Apparently, the designer of the adapter seems to caution against it....but there are a lot of people doing it such as yourself without issue.

What can be said for sure is that Toyota didn't specifically design an almost 5:1 reduction before the stock case. Doesn't mean it'll break automatically in the slightest....but it's likely the reason why Inchworm doesn't recommend doing it.

 

[Jaysen4runner]

I recognize your avatar as Bald Mountain. You guys who live in the Valley are so lucky. My Avatar pick was taken on the trail to Red Lake. I only get up there once a year these days, you guys are so lucky!

You have good eyes, yes it is Bald mountain. I just ran Red lake this year with my Ifs 4runner 1 locker. But Man Red lake is bad this year, I had to guide 2 JK on 37s out of Red lake. Lol the Jk guys told me that we are crazy going thru Red Lake with 3 IFS rigs! Lmao Hit me up we can run Red or Dusy together this year.

 

[owyheerat]

I will be joining this club soon...

There are beginning to be more and more 3rd Gens that are running Dual Cases. So Post up a pic or Video of your Rig and give us the info. Then what you like or dislike, and what will be the next step for you. In post 2 I will keep an updated Build thread list.

EDIT: Since 35's are really a secondary issue we have decided to drop that part of this Thread so tire size will not be a factor.

So Here is mine


<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YpHJb243r2c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

1998 SR5
3.4 supercharged
5 speed
Trail Gear Adapter Plates 2.3 crawlbox with stock rear case
4.88:1 Axle Ratios
ARB air lockers front and Rear
35x12.5R17 Goodyear MTR's (currently)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82171-smokey-build.html

I am in the process of installing an Inchworm complete dual case, along with a Front Range Offroad crossmember and Rad Designs triple sticks. I hope to have it back on the trail in the next 2 weeks.

I have a couple of questions:
-Have any of you installed, adjustable rear lower control arms, to reset the pinion angle? Since the rear drive shaft is shorter it looks like the angle will be steeper. If so, how did you calculate how much shorter the control arms need to be?

-Did any of you have trim or modify the e-brake 'housing'? The stamped steel piece that penetrates the floor where cable enters the cab. Mine is hitting the top of the rear t-case.

Thanks

Durwin

 

[Rockdawg84]

I am in the process of installing an Inchworm complete dual case, along with a Front Range Offroad crossmember and Rad Designs triple sticks. I hope to have it back on the trail in the next 2 weeks.

That's great!!

I have a couple of questions:
-Have any of you installed, adjustable rear lower control arms, to reset the pinion angle? Since the rear drive shaft is shorter it looks like the angle will be steeper. If so, how did you calculate how much shorter the control arms need to be?

Still running stock Lower Control Arms in the rear. I have had no problems at all.

-Did any of you have trim or modify the e-brake 'housing'? The stamped steel piece that penetrates the floor where cable enters the cab. Mine is hitting the top of the rear t-case.

I think some guys have modified that area. I have a 1/2" body lift and no rubbing at all.

Thanks

Durwin

Responses in Red

 

[owyheerat]

[MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION], thanks for the info.

I started a thread here :http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/233379-transfer-case-troubles-need-help.html

Asking for some assistance. I didn't want to muddy this thread.

If anyone has an ideas or suggestions, I am all ears

Thanks

Durwin

 

[Dylanseagraves]

All this talk about dual lockers and gearing and here I am with a stupid automatic...

but that opens up for a whole new realm of possibilities. I've seen the 5 speed swap on a few threads, would it be beneficial to look into doing a 5 speed swap while also toying with the idea of getting a dual t case before I re-gear and lockers?

I'm hoping to come across some 4.30's with an e-locker eventually so I would like to hold off on 2k for gears and lockers. (going grizzly sorry ARB)

 

[Rockdawg84]

All this talk about dual lockers and gearing and here I am with a stupid automatic...

but that opens up for a whole new realm of possibilities. I've seen the 5 speed swap on a few threads, would it be beneficial to look into doing a 5 speed swap while also toying with the idea of getting a dual t case before I re-gear and lockers?

I'm hoping to come across some 4.30's with an e-locker eventually so I would like to hold off on 2k for gears and lockers. (going grizzly sorry ARB)

An Automatic won't stop you from doing this. Lots of guys with auto have done duals. Grizzlys will get the job done just fine. Get after it we need this club to grow. :cheers:

 

[owyheerat]

Shifter boot ???

There are beginning to be more and more 3rd Gens that are running Dual Cases. So Post up a pic or Video of your Rig and give us the info. Then what you like or dislike, and what will be the next step for you. In post 2 I will keep an updated Build thread list.

EDIT: Since 35's are really a secondary issue we have decided to drop that part of this Thread so tire size will not be a factor.

So Here is mine


<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YpHJb243r2c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

1998 SR5
3.4 supercharged
5 speed
Trail Gear Adapter Plates 2.3 crawlbox with stock rear case
4.88:1 Axle Ratios
ARB air lockers front and Rear
35x12.5R17 Goodyear MTR's (currently)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82171-smokey-build.html

Rockdawg, I have a couple of questions. Where did you get this shifter 'boot'? Custom?

I have a URD short shifter kit (on tranny), and am installing Radesigns triple sticks, like you have done. Do I have to remove the interlock pin for triple sticks to work properly? Any tricks / tips I should do or be aware of for the triple sticks?

Lastly, did you have to extend your 'speed sensor'? If so, can you describe how you did it? It seems like it would be simple, but I want to make sure before I 'hack' into factory wiring.

thanks

Durwin

 

[Rockdawg84]

Rockdawg, I have a couple of questions. Where did you get this shifter 'boot'? Custom?

I have a URD short shifter kit (on tranny), and am installing Radesigns triple sticks, like you have done. Do I have to remove the interlock pin for triple sticks to work properly? Any tricks / tips I should do or be aware of for the triple sticks?

Lastly, did you have to extend your 'speed sensor'? If so, can you describe how you did it? It seems like it would be simple, but I want to make sure before I 'hack' into factory wiring.

thanks

Durwin

Durwin,

happy to answer as best I can. Yes my boot was custom made by a local auto upholstery shop. I took my factory boot in along with the rubber boot from RaDesigns and said I need this to look like this. He said no problem and I picked up the new boot a week later. A couple of things I wish I had thought of when I had him make the boot, I wish I had told him I needed some extra room because of the taco plate moved the front case back almost an inch and it has a tendency to pull away from the frame when I shift into double low. I think I can work it out but haven't taken the time to pull it off and work on it.

On the interlock pin. yes Rory has in his directions that the interlock pin needs to be removed for the triple stick to work properly. If you think about it the interlock pin keeps the 4x4 and hi-low rails for being shifted independently, in other words you can't shift into low unless you are in 4x4. But the triple stick allows you to be in low and with a front case double low 2x4. So yes make sure you remove that pin.

I did have to extend the speed sensor wires. If I remember correctly I simply butt spliced in a longer section of wire. easy peazy. Just remember to use some heat shrink tube to seal the splices so the weather doesn't get in there and cause corrosion.

You are gonna love having this setup.

 

[owyheerat]

Durwin,

happy to answer as best I can. Yes my boot was custom made by a local auto upholstery shop. I took my factory boot in along with the rubber boot from RaDesigns and said I need this to look like this. He said no problem and I picked up the new boot a week later. A couple of things I wish I had thought of when I had him make the boot, I wish I had told him I needed some extra room because of the taco plate moved the front case back almost an inch and it has a tendency to pull away from the frame when I shift into double low. I think I can work it out but haven't taken the time to pull it off and work on it.

On the interlock pin. yes Rory has in his directions that the interlock pin needs to be removed for the triple stick to work properly. If you think about it the interlock pin keeps the 4x4 and hi-low rails for being shifted independently, in other words you can't shift into low unless you are in 4x4. But the triple stick allows you to be in low and with a front case double low 2x4. So yes make sure you remove that pin.

I did have to extend the speed sensor wires. If I remember correctly I simply butt spliced in a longer section of wire. easy peazy. Just remember to use some heat shrink tube to seal the splices so the weather doesn't get in there and cause corrosion.

You are gonna love having this setup.

Rockdawg, thanks for the quick reply. A couple of follow up questions.

Did you install the rubber boot that came with triple sticks, under the custom boot? The stock tranny and tcase have rubber boots, under the faux leather boot. Did you keep or eliminate this part? I hope you understand what I'm trying to ask.

Ok, I read those instructions 3 times, finally called Rory, and he said not to bother because it's a pain to remove...this is why I'm confused. What your saying makes sense. I think Rory must have misunderstood my question, or application. What is the simpliest way to remove the interlock pin? And do I have to 'grind' the foot off the high / low shift rail?

I figured it was just a matter of splicing in a longer wire, but it seems the mods, that appear easy are the ones that give me the most headaches, if I don't ask the 'dumb' questions before I start.

Thanks again.

 

[Rockdawg84]

Rockdawg, thanks for the quick reply. A couple of follow up questions.

Did you install the rubber boot that came with triple sticks, under the custom boot? The stock tranny and tcase have rubber boots, under the faux leather boot. Did you keep or eliminate this part? I hope you understand what I'm trying to ask.

Ok, I read those instructions 3 times, finally called Rory, and he said not to bother because it's a pain to remove...this is why I'm confused. What your saying makes sense. I think Rory must have misunderstood my question, or application. What is the simpliest way to remove the interlock pin? And do I have to 'grind' the foot off the high / low shift rail?

I figured it was just a matter of splicing in a longer wire, but it seems the mods, that appear easy are the ones that give me the most headaches, if I don't ask the 'dumb' questions before I start.

Thanks again.

It was a pain to remove but it is necessary as far as I know. My buddy (ase cert mechanic) helped me tear down the transfer case to remove the pin. I have done a lot of early gear cases but never had done a 3rd gen chain driven. We had to pull the back part of the transfer case off to get to the rails and pin. Honestly I can't remember if we cut/ground off the foot. Just FYI Rory was great to work with but he sent me the 2nd gen 4runner chain driven case instructions and we finally tossed those and just dug in. I'm sorry I'm not more help tonight. I will call my buddy tomorrow and see if he remembers better than me.

 

[owyheerat]

It was a pain to remove but it is necessary as far as I know. My buddy (ase cert mechanic) helped me tear down the transfer case to remove the pin. I have done a lot of early gear cases but never had done a 3rd gen chain driven. We had to pull the back part of the transfer case off to get to the rails and pin. Honestly I can't remember if we cut/ground off the foot. Just FYI Rory was great to work with but he sent me the 2nd gen 4runner chain driven case instructions and we finally tossed those and just dug in. I'm sorry I'm not more help tonight. I will call my buddy tomorrow and see if he remembers better than me.

Sam, thanks for the help. I got it out. I have to say I'm getting pretty good at pulling the case apart (done it so many fricken times now). I should have taken pics to help the next guy out, but I was in a hurry and didn't think about it until I was done.

I'm glad I pulled it apart, because I found the 'shifting keys' had fallen out of the 'drive sprocket'...not good. These are a pain to put back in. http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...f/02rmsour/2002/024runne/trvf3am/ros/comp.pdf

Hopefully all goes well, and I get it bolted into the truck tonight.

Do you have the radesigns rubber boot under your custom boot?

Thanks

Durwin

 

[Rockdawg84]

Sam, thanks for the help. I got it out. I have to say I'm getting pretty good at pulling the case apart (done it so many fricken times now). I should have taken pics to help the next guy out, but I was in a hurry and didn't think about it until I was done.

I'm glad I pulled it apart, because I found the 'shifting keys' had fallen out of the 'drive sprocket'...not good. These are a pain to put back in. http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...f/02rmsour/2002/024runne/trvf3am/ros/comp.pdf

Hopefully all goes well, and I get it bolted into the truck tonight.

Do you have the radesigns rubber boot under your custom boot?

Thanks

Durwin

glad to hear it. Yes I used the rubber boot under my custom boot. Helps with road noise and moisture getting in.

hope all went well tonight getting things put together.

 

[snow junky]

I'm lame and jumped ship to TW after I got my Tacoma but I'm putting together my build on here too.



I think any of the above offer the coupler. It's normally in stock less than the regular 23 spline input but it's out there. Found out the hard way that you can put the 23 spline side of the coupler onto the 26 spline output of the trans and break an ear off your trans when you try to pull the crawler on. :redface:



I wish I had made a crawler my first mod on the truck when I got it. On a stick truck, I would put a crawler ahead of a solid axle because it is that good. Auto you can get away with 2.56 for longer but the auto with 4.7/2.56 wheels amazing too.

I'm currently trying to put a gear reduction box on my 3rz manual trans. it took a few hits of the hammer to get the coupler on the 23spline input gear and basically had to use bolts on the trans/adapter to press the crawl box on. It was TIGHT!!! I can't imagine this is normal.
Almost as tight as the factory coupler on the chain transfer case.

I don't think I could possibly have the coupler on backwards. [emoji1317] I even cleaned the antitrust crap off the coupler and put a little antiseize on splines

The trans and crawl box seem to be together, I just don't like how tight it was. Hope to god I never have to separate the two.

Was everyone else's this tight?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[owyheerat]

Finally!!! I'm crawlin!!!

This has been the SLOWEST mod I have done (pun intended):eyebrows:

I don't have any pics or videos yet, but I was able to test drive the newly installed 'crawl box' a week ago Saturday (3/11). Everything worked...YEAH!

I have been working (a few hours here and there) on completing the install.
ie; modifying and installing FROR transfer case crossmember bracket, Radesigns triple sticks, CaliFab adjustable rear links (to adjust rear pinion angle for shortened rear drive shaft), and putting console back in place (with slight modification).

I plan to hit the trails this weekend. I pray nothing breaks.

Thanks to all for the inspiration, encouragement and help.

Durwin

 

[Rockdawg84]

This has been the SLOWEST mod I have done (pun intended):eyebrows:

I don't have any pics or videos yet, but I was able to test drive the newly installed 'crawl box' a week ago Saturday (3/11). Everything worked...YEAH!

I have been working (a few hours here and there) on completing the install.
ie; modifying and installing FROR transfer case crossmember bracket, Radesigns triple sticks, CaliFab adjustable rear links (to adjust rear pinion angle for shortened rear drive shaft), and putting console back in place (with slight modification).

I plan to hit the trails this weekend. I pray nothing breaks.

Thanks to all for the inspiration, encouragement and help.

Durwin

So Glad you got it together. Slowest and best mod ever lol :reddance:

 

[AxleIke]

New guy here. Need more posts before I can start a build thread, so I figured I could post up in this thread.

Here's my take on lockers and cases:

Dual cases:

I first just lost a cup holder like is common, but that was annoying, so I fabbed up linkages and kept it all stock-ish. Someone talked about stock early on in this thread, so that was a common element for me. Used a factory automatic boot and boot cover, and just bent some 1/2 solid bar in my press brake to make the handle curve up and over for the front case. Still needs stickers to get the high low pattern correct.

Basically, loads of work to satisfy OCD tendencies.





For lockers, I'm not a fan of carling switches, so I again did the idiotically difficult method and wired everything up all stock like. Spent several hours in the back of the local dealership with wiring books and found all of the pin leads to wire everything up using factory plugs in the dash, so it wasn't a cut and paste job.

I got an automatic switch board from the junk yard, and wired up the ECT switch to the compressor and had a little decal made from the ARB compressor switch.



Used the security LED as an indicator:



On:


Followed someone elses lead on the webs and cut and pasted a modified taco screen print into the dash, but its wired in using the factory plugs on the back of the combo meter, so the bulb is factory and there are no extra solder points on the combo meter itself. Shoulda used a 4runner one, didn't realize it would be a different shade of red. Will have to redo that someday



Tried to do a bit of artwork on the switch, but really not happy with it. Someday I'll redo it.



I also wanted the big compressor from ARB, so re did a bunch of stuff under the hood and built new brackets for the ABS relays, the cruise unit, and of course the compressor.



Been beating on it in various states:

SD:



Blanca, CO:

Utah: